Remote oil filter

[baddog8it]

Started on Sunday to fix the major oil leak above the oil filter.

First step of course was to get THE BEAST secured and at a little better working height. Didn't get it jacked enough to see daylight under the tires, but the extra couple of inches of frame lift helped. You can see that some weight is off of the front tires - the cambers is way off.

I noticed that parts of the oil cooler were very clean, and other parts were totally clogged up. My best guess is that the car wash pressure washer just didn't hit the clogged parts.

Here's the offending oil filter adapter. Notice the tin can around the lower radiator hose. That's the first time I've seen anything like that!

Got the oil filter adapter off. Found an old mud dauber nest. The rubber seal between the adapter and the engine block was rock hard. It's no wonder it leaked as bad as it did.

Next was the bracket for the remote oil filter mount. Pics of my son helping out. We're not professionals, so I hope it holds. And more mud dauber nests.

With the filters installed, nothing will be hanging below frame level.

That's where she stands as of tonight. Hopefully tomorrow I can get a little more knocked out.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Good write-up and good progress. Have you found the right o-ring?

Your welds look like they should hold nicely. My only suggestion is to round the corners of the piece of plate that stick down below the frame. I shouldn't judge others by myself, but I'd take a chunk out of my skin every once in a while when working under my truck on those corners.

And that can trick is new to me as well. Apparently they had a problem with the belts nicking the hose, so slipped the can on to protect it. My guess is that they didn't buy matched belts so one is longer than the other and you can't get one of them tight enough to quit galloping w/o making the other one too tight.

[baddog8it]

Good write-up and good progress. Have you found the right o-ring?

Your welds look like they should hold nicely. My only suggestion is to round the corners of the piece of plate that stick down below the frame. I shouldn't judge others by myself, but I'd take a chunk out of my skin every once in a while when working under my truck on those corners.

And that can trick is new to me as well. Apparently they had a problem with the belts nicking the hose, so slipped the can on to protect it. My guess is that they didn't buy matched belts so one is longer than the other and you can't get one of them tight enough to quit galloping w/o making the other one too tight.

Finished the plumbing. Still need to do some securing of the oil lines. Put some oil in it and fired it up. Took some time to build pressure as I expected - plenty of air in the lines.

As soon as pressure built up, I started seeing leaks. ARRRGGHHH! Every single NPT joint leaked. Any suggestions for oil compatible thread sealant? I'm afraid to torque the connections any more than they already are.

[Gary Lewis]

Finished the plumbing. Still need to do some securing of the oil lines. Put some oil in it and fired it up. Took some time to build pressure as I expected - plenty of air in the lines.

As soon as pressure built up, I started seeing leaks. ARRRGGHHH! Every single NPT joint leaked. Any suggestions for oil compatible thread sealant? I'm afraid to torque the connections any more than they already are.

For NPT I use two turns of Teflon tape about two turns back of the leading thread. And then I put PTFE paste on the lead turns.

[FuzzFace2]

For NPT I use two turns of Teflon tape about two turns back of the leading thread. And then I put PTFE paste on the lead turns.

I would use the tape as that is what I have in the tool box but if I had the paste I would use just that.

When I did HVAC work in a hospital we used the paste 95% of the time. The other 5% was tape as that is what we had on our tool belts and was a small job.

In your case if I did not have tape or paste I would use.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/cache/370-320-/catalog/graphics/09-28500.jpg

I do have that in the box too.

Dave ----

[FuzzFace2]

For NPT I use two turns of Teflon tape about two turns back of the leading thread. And then I put PTFE paste on the lead turns.

I would use the tape as that is what I have in the tool box but if I had the paste I would use just that.

When I did HVAC work in a hospital we used the paste 95% of the time. The other 5% was tape as that is what we had on our tool belts and was a small job.

In your case if I did not have tape or paste I would use.

I do have that in the box too.

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

For NPT I use two turns of Teflon tape about two turns back of the leading thread. And then I put PTFE paste on the lead turns.

I would use the tape as that is what I have in the tool box but if I had the paste I would use just that.

When I did HVAC work in a hospital we used the paste 95% of the time. The other 5% was tape as that is what we had on our tool belts and was a small job.

In your case if I did not have tape or paste I would use.

I do have that in the box too.

Dave ----

Just as a clarification, I don't put the tape out to the end of the threads because it is too easy to get it out too far and then some of the tape can get into the system and cause problems. But by keeping it two turns back I've not had a problem.

[baddog8it]

Just as a clarification, I don't put the tape out to the end of the threads because it is too easy to get it out too far and then some of the tape can get into the system and cause problems. But by keeping it two turns back I've not had a problem.

I went with Permatex High Temp Thread Sealant (PN 59214) which was available at one of my local auto parts stores. I completely cleaned both mating surfaces with MAF sensor cleaner (I had some sitting on my basement shelf), applied the sealant per directions, then tightened as tight as I dared. I was able to do this assembly at my bench in a vise. The assemblies were then attached to either the oil filter housing or the oil filter adapter - this connection was a straight mail thread with o-ring seal.

The joints are holding up great. No leaks! Just picked up double hose clamps from Fastenal so that I can clean up and secure the installation.

I had used the existing hoses leading to/from the oil cooler, cut to length and fitted onto the hose barbs on the oil thermostat. The existing hose had an internal wire braid and once fitted over the hose barb won't budge. Being unable to undo/seal/redo these fittings, I put the system back together temporarily bypassing the oil cooler. That'll have to be addressed later.

Since finishing the plumbing, I've noticed a few things:

1. The original oil leak between the engine block and the original oil thermostat/filter adapter is gone!

2. The NPT fittings with permatex don't leak! Yeah!

3. The oil pressure takes much longer to build up now. I'm guessing that the new hose can swell and thus an extra volume of oil is required once at pressure.

4. Now I'm seeing other/smaller leaks that were previously overshadowed. I've crawled under and looked just enough to realize that oil is dripping off of the bottom of the starter - haven't investigated any further.

[Gary Lewis]

I went with Permatex High Temp Thread Sealant (PN 59214) which was available at one of my local auto parts stores. I completely cleaned both mating surfaces with MAF sensor cleaner (I had some sitting on my basement shelf), applied the sealant per directions, then tightened as tight as I dared. I was able to do this assembly at my bench in a vise. The assemblies were then attached to either the oil filter housing or the oil filter adapter - this connection was a straight mail thread with o-ring seal.

The joints are holding up great. No leaks! Just picked up double hose clamps from Fastenal so that I can clean up and secure the installation.

I had used the existing hoses leading to/from the oil cooler, cut to length and fitted onto the hose barbs on the oil thermostat. The existing hose had an internal wire braid and once fitted over the hose barb won't budge. Being unable to undo/seal/redo these fittings, I put the system back together temporarily bypassing the oil cooler. That'll have to be addressed later.

Since finishing the plumbing, I've noticed a few things:

1. The original oil leak between the engine block and the original oil thermostat/filter adapter is gone!

2. The NPT fittings with permatex don't leak! Yeah!

3. The oil pressure takes much longer to build up now. I'm guessing that the new hose can swell and thus an extra volume of oil is required once at pressure.

4. Now I'm seeing other/smaller leaks that were previously overshadowed. I've crawled under and looked just enough to realize that oil is dripping off of the bottom of the starter - haven't investigated any further.

Glad the Permatex is working. But, I understand about the other oil leaks showing up - that's the onion effect. Pull one layer and there are more and more underneath.

The oil dripping off the starter could be from the valve cover, rear of the intake manifold where it hits the web between the cylinders, or the rear main. Hope for the valve cover.