M5odr2

[Rembrant]

I finally have all the parts for the M5ROD2 swap but I’m having a hard time telling the difference between the 81 pedal set and the one 84-86 that supposedly is for a hydraulic clutch bullnose….. any intel forthcoming is very welcomed.

E4TA-2L252-CB Part number for the “84-86”

E1TA-2L252-AA currently have on the 81

The sets below in these Ebay auctions are from a 1984-1986 hydraulic clutch Bullnose.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/354407824270?fits=Year%3A1986%7CModel%3AF-150%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item52845a3b8e:g:154AAOSwGSZjfdYB&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4KrbBVN2YLksEtlnsb3nWfBeql%2B1zwwZTAoQFwMO8zyaR5hmK1iLarQH%2B7qJtDFJMvr9kiVZqQL44z0vTQHQZiffFiZ02qp4hOgUTOpPQ3Q85DUKnapF%2FJVPlgimII6wSnfE1yTrsd0xW3rz0o%2B24N0IeffLqnLIDwAuIc3mNkKfagsax%2FqJ9bBup%2BUywMnBtQoI4NPazRR07OcrPO4sYez9%2B5TTPWOpb53QxnmKoBH9WRKE8509wpCMhhTbanybtbBCoT5kYqkfsyMIv4X5AzcEqYr5XQ1SM0nqrwBc%2BU7O%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5j55-evYQ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/393170354011?fits=Year%3A1986%7CModel%3AF-150%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item5b8ac77f5b:g:QIsAAOSw3e9gP6-z&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsEexHD11f3MzlmLU17qjkOkNPF0CUhIK9BeOyE%2FoVMBTvoDXnX6LQaW%2BAih80ZdRuBd8P4IMMXCu2JCtIrhtXTYzfuOT7ISesXjOqiurDAODgMAG1ZRRUPUFFdk4Ep8vX43VcW79dGKvEnQKiTvz6nAABEETv3JAWNXjQvrFocQRUil5kVgkmcTYP2DIWRqLyB2m6Q0X6z0qKaZMFlinVFKaMkP1nHU8%2Bb87IDgXzcjy%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5j55-evYQ

These sets below are from a 1980-1983 manual linkage clutch Bullnose:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144620531620?epid=1722109383&hash=item21ac0e2fa4:g:PHwAAOSw5cpit9UC&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsAVozIrCTrhOspZ3kaaVQASUEWDYT4ssULZ585Q%2FZDp%2BMuVbz8yBW%2FPQKnLfZcSAULmq6XGF5ZvJvNZSjf9rKbO2qavmSWF%2BWaZOMhPvWiJQfdulTDnHHSqvbQNt4oPkXxtpHGW8rCrWayTAAbxE97XrWgjFOLeC0dWIryCcJNzaY5XoRNwfrRXNE5WIr8CBjYOKRpaYhJn50IX5b%2BQbxuwHGFjyEMQ7sJlGJ%2F8cTu0T%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5j55-evYQ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204200107816?epid=1150208130&hash=item2f8b465f28:g:rRkAAOSwZK9jregx&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsBUtPvehyhJNeVD3dR2a5l1aiTl%2BV8fPtFt4H6LkwKsWsOuE6ftREa7PaLRaYouh3n3AxA5MZs%2FYzf3jRrhuskwFvq0aMMrmv7JJF4aR8O5qAVtHMp3Jf4L05t60Y0JX7QmoGdHCZIyR5Tw1cXICyY5hprqs1eqRgGoTUZjqJn84ypKwzegK%2BYOH4dXA2l18C2CN1CpH1kh%2B5QTQap8DZVJUtWgg0aIh62inKODdHjNB%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5j55-evYQ

The aluminum casting might be the same between the two, I'm not sure, but the main shaft is different between the two.

On the hydraulic clutch set, there is a small pin on the lever where the pushrod goes for the master cylinder. The cotter pin goes through this pin/post.

On the manual clutch set, the pin/post is on the top end of the long rod that goes through the floor to the manual linkage.

Does that make sense? I can post a couple pics zoomed in on them to show the difference.

 

[Rembrant]

The sets below in these Ebay auctions are from a 1984-1986 hydraulic clutch Bullnose.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/354407824270?fits=Year%3A1986%7CModel%3AF-150%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item52845a3b8e:g:154AAOSwGSZjfdYB&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4KrbBVN2YLksEtlnsb3nWfBeql%2B1zwwZTAoQFwMO8zyaR5hmK1iLarQH%2B7qJtDFJMvr9kiVZqQL44z0vTQHQZiffFiZ02qp4hOgUTOpPQ3Q85DUKnapF%2FJVPlgimII6wSnfE1yTrsd0xW3rz0o%2B24N0IeffLqnLIDwAuIc3mNkKfagsax%2FqJ9bBup%2BUywMnBtQoI4NPazRR07OcrPO4sYez9%2B5TTPWOpb53QxnmKoBH9WRKE8509wpCMhhTbanybtbBCoT5kYqkfsyMIv4X5AzcEqYr5XQ1SM0nqrwBc%2BU7O%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5j55-evYQ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/393170354011?fits=Year%3A1986%7CModel%3AF-150%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item5b8ac77f5b:g:QIsAAOSw3e9gP6-z&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsEexHD11f3MzlmLU17qjkOkNPF0CUhIK9BeOyE%2FoVMBTvoDXnX6LQaW%2BAih80ZdRuBd8P4IMMXCu2JCtIrhtXTYzfuOT7ISesXjOqiurDAODgMAG1ZRRUPUFFdk4Ep8vX43VcW79dGKvEnQKiTvz6nAABEETv3JAWNXjQvrFocQRUil5kVgkmcTYP2DIWRqLyB2m6Q0X6z0qKaZMFlinVFKaMkP1nHU8%2Bb87IDgXzcjy%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5j55-evYQ

These sets below are from a 1980-1983 manual linkage clutch Bullnose:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144620531620?epid=1722109383&hash=item21ac0e2fa4:g:PHwAAOSw5cpit9UC&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsAVozIrCTrhOspZ3kaaVQASUEWDYT4ssULZ585Q%2FZDp%2BMuVbz8yBW%2FPQKnLfZcSAULmq6XGF5ZvJvNZSjf9rKbO2qavmSWF%2BWaZOMhPvWiJQfdulTDnHHSqvbQNt4oPkXxtpHGW8rCrWayTAAbxE97XrWgjFOLeC0dWIryCcJNzaY5XoRNwfrRXNE5WIr8CBjYOKRpaYhJn50IX5b%2BQbxuwHGFjyEMQ7sJlGJ%2F8cTu0T%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5j55-evYQ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204200107816?epid=1150208130&hash=item2f8b465f28:g:rRkAAOSwZK9jregx&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsBUtPvehyhJNeVD3dR2a5l1aiTl%2BV8fPtFt4H6LkwKsWsOuE6ftREa7PaLRaYouh3n3AxA5MZs%2FYzf3jRrhuskwFvq0aMMrmv7JJF4aR8O5qAVtHMp3Jf4L05t60Y0JX7QmoGdHCZIyR5Tw1cXICyY5hprqs1eqRgGoTUZjqJn84ypKwzegK%2BYOH4dXA2l18C2CN1CpH1kh%2B5QTQap8DZVJUtWgg0aIh62inKODdHjNB%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5j55-evYQ

The aluminum casting might be the same between the two, I'm not sure, but the main shaft is different between the two.

On the hydraulic clutch set, there is a small pin on the lever where the pushrod goes for the master cylinder. The cotter pin goes through this pin/post.

On the manual clutch set, the pin/post is on the top end of the long rod that goes through the floor to the manual linkage.

Does that make sense? I can post a couple pics zoomed in on them to show the difference.

Here are some pics zoomed in...

This is the little lever on the end of the 1984-1986 hydraulic clutch pedal set. Notice how it has a pin on the end of it, and the pin is worn (they all get like this after a while).

Here's a close up. You could weld up the old pin, or drill it out and weld a new pin in place. A small "hitch pin" goes through the end of it.

Here's a picture of a new clutch master cylinder kit. The hole in the pushrod goes on that pin above:

Here's a picture of the old manual linkage clutch pedal assembly. The little lever has a hole in the end of it instead of a pin:

I'm sure you could make one or the other work in the opposite setup if you don't mind some fabrication work, but if you can find the right 84-86 pedal setup it bolts right in, in just a few minutes.

 

[Socnarftrucks]

Here are some pics zoomed in...

This is the little lever on the end of the 1984-1986 hydraulic clutch pedal set. Notice how it has a pin on the end of it, and the pin is worn (they all get like this after a while).

Here's a close up. You could weld up the old pin, or drill it out and weld a new pin in place. A small "hitch pin" goes through the end of it.

Here's a picture of a new clutch master cylinder kit. The hole in the pushrod goes on that pin above:

Here's a picture of the old manual linkage clutch pedal assembly. The little lever has a hole in the end of it instead of a pin:

I'm sure you could make one or the other work in the opposite setup if you don't mind some fabrication work, but if you can find the right 84-86 pedal setup it bolts right in, in just a few minutes.

These are the main differences. “Mechanical ” bottom is the “hydraulic”…. Everything else is exactly the same

[ArdWrknTrk]

Here are some pics zoomed in...

This is the little lever on the end of the 1984-1986 hydraulic clutch pedal set. Notice how it has a pin on the end of it, and the pin is worn (they all get like this after a while).

Here's a close up. You could weld up the old pin, or drill it out and weld a new pin in place. A small "hitch pin" goes through the end of it.

Here's a picture of a new clutch master cylinder kit. The hole in the pushrod goes on that pin above:

Here's a picture of the old manual linkage clutch pedal assembly. The little lever has a hole in the end of it instead of a pin:

I'm sure you could make one or the other work in the opposite setup if you don't mind some fabrication work, but if you can find the right 84-86 pedal setup it bolts right in, in just a few minutes.

If your pin is worn out like that you can also replace just the arm, or you can buy a Heim joint (spherical rod joint) that bolts through where the pin used to go and threads onto the pushrod.

My '87 truck used a fingered plastic bushing to hold the clutch pedal lever to the pushrod eye and after lots of frustration I finally just replaced it with a 'top hat' oilite bronze bushing

Also note the master cylinder shown above.

You want an '83-'87 master with the two bolts one above the other.

Later masters have the bolts on the diagonal and the embossed firewall isn't laid out for these.

[mat in tn]

These are the main differences. “Mechanical ” bottom is the “hydraulic”…. Everything else is exactly the same

this is the type of info I was hoping for i have a couple of these assemblies but not a later model for comparison. is it not reasonable to think you could put a clevis pin in where the linkage rod went or is the angle of the arm different also?

[ArdWrknTrk]

this is the type of info I was hoping for i have a couple of these assemblies but not a later model for comparison. is it not reasonable to think you could put a clevis pin in where the linkage rod went or is the angle of the arm different also?

You can find the hydraulic arm (it's obsolete, but they are out there)

Or just get the heim joint to have smoother action and no wear....

E4TZ-7A554-A .. Clutch Pedal Lever (pivot arm)

Edit: 5 years ago Numberdummy posts "VINTAGE PARTS INC. in Beaver Dam WI has 107 = 877-846-8243"

The angle is different. Hydraulic clutch goes through the firewall, linkage goes through the floor to the Z-bar.

If converting to hydraulic I suggest you install the small firewall reinforcement that ties to the transmission tunnel.

E3TZ-7K509-A

I have this in my truck and it stiffened the master cylinder enough that I haven't had a problem since 2004.

 

[Socnarftrucks]

If your pin is worn out like that you can also replace just the arm, or you can buy a Heim joint (spherical rod joint) that bolts through where the pin used to go and threads onto the pushrod.

My '87 truck used a fingered plastic bushing to hold the clutch pedal lever to the pushrod eye and after lots of frustration I finally just replaced it with a 'top hat' oilite bronze bushing

Also note the master cylinder shown above.

You want an '83-'87 master with the two bolts one above the other.

Later masters have the bolts on the diagonal and the embossed firewall isn't laid out for these.

The pin is in good shape. And the master cylinder push rod slips right in.

[Socnarftrucks]

You can find the hydraulic arm (it's obsolete, but they are out there)

Or just get the heim joint to have smoother action and no wear....

E4TZ-7A554-A .. Clutch Pedal Lever (pivot arm)

Edit: 5 years ago Numberdummy posts "VINTAGE PARTS INC. in Beaver Dam WI has 107 = 877-846-8243"

The angle is different. Hydraulic clutch goes through the firewall, linkage goes through the floor to the Z-bar.

If converting to hydraulic I suggest you install the small firewall reinforcement that ties to the transmission tunnel.

E3TZ-7K509-A

I have this in my truck and it stiffened the master cylinder enough that I haven't had a problem since 2004.

I am already installing this bracket. Do you recommend to get the E3TZ-7K509-A as well? Thanks!!!

[ArdWrknTrk]

I am already installing this bracket. Do you recommend to get the E3TZ-7K509-A as well? Thanks!!!

No, definitely not.

If you have the huge brace for firewalls that are torn to shreds the little one... A) is pointless. B) won't fit.

The little one is a preventative measure, and since you're going from mechanical linkage the firewall isn't damaged.

But if you have the big one go ahead and use it.

[Gary Lewis]

No, definitely not.

If you have the huge brace for firewalls that are torn to shreds the little one... A) is pointless. B) won't fit.

The little one is a preventative measure, and since you're going from mechanical linkage the firewall isn't damaged.

But if you have the big one go ahead and use it.

I can say from experience that installing the big one is a pain. If I wasn't in a hurry I'd consider selling the big one and ordering the smaller one. As Jim said, when going from mechanical to hydraulic your firewall isn't hurt and the small one will be adequate. But the big one will certainly do the job if you don't mind installing it.