1980 F-150 with 300six 4x4 (Bob)

[80bob]

Hey all,

I'm starting this topic for my 1980 F-150 with a 300six.

Background

I've had this truck for a couple of years and it doesn't typically get much use, only occasional trips to the lumberyard or when my daughter makes a request for a little drive around the neighborhood. That being said, it had always started right up even after sitting for sometimes months and even when it was cold outside. More recently the choke in the Carter YFA 1bbl carburetor started sticking closed and preventing consistent starting. I figured it was due for a carb clean/rebuild so after procrastinating for some months I jumped in.

Work Done/To Do

The carb rebuild has gone well. I discovered it was missing the metering rod spring and one of the freeze plugs in the air horn casting. There was also a significant amount of debris in the choke heater housing. Upon further investigation I found that the choke heat tube had rusted off at the manifold which is likely the culprit leading to a sticking choke piston. After a thorough cleaning of all metal parts with Pine Sol, the moves freely.

I've got the carburetor reassembled and have made all the off-car adjustments, but could not figure out how the WOT EGR dump valve was doing anything in the state I found it. When I removed the carb, nothing was connected to it. After looking a little deeper I found that the truck had an EGR delete kit installed by the original owner. While I have the carburetor off, I'd like to reinstall the EGR system back to a stock setup.

I've purchased and received the Light Truck Master Parts Catalog, but was wondering if anyone can help me determine what Calibration Parts List No I should be using. My sticker with the Calibration number is long gone. The truck is a 6 cyl. 300 C.I.D. (4.9L) 1980 F150 M/T 4/W/D (exc. Calif and Canada). The problem is I can't find a list description that directly says both M/T AND 4/W/D.

I'd appreciate any guidance so I can make sure to select the proper EGR parts. Thanks.

[Gary Lewis]

I see what you are saying about the calibration #. Looking at the parts lists I see that #1 and #49 both show the same thing:

1980 F250 - - 2/W/D-M/T exc, Calif.

1980 F-U150/250 - - 4/W/D

I'm wondering if by saying M/T for the 2wd if that also applies to the 4wd?

Also, compare their EGR parts. Most are the same:

[80bob]

I see what you are saying about the calibration #. Looking at the parts lists I see that #1 and #49 both show the same thing:

1980 F250 - - 2/W/D-M/T exc, Calif.

1980 F-U150/250 - - 4/W/D

I'm wondering if by saying M/T for the 2wd if that also applies to the 4wd?

Also, compare their EGR parts. Most are the same:

I was wondering if that could be assumed. Well if it is between List 1 and 49, it would seem my carburetor puts me in the 49 list as the tagged number is E0TA-ATA and not E0TA-ARA (see image below).

[Gary Lewis]

I was wondering if that could be assumed. Well if it is between List 1 and 49, it would seem my carburetor puts me in the 49 list as the tagged number is E0TA-ATA and not E0TA-ARA (see image below).

I think you meant E0TE—ATA. And that carb was used in only two parts lists:

#2: M/T-exc. Calif. but doesn't say 2 or 4wd

#49: As discussed.

So I think you parts list is #49.

[80bob]

I think you meant E0TE—ATA. And that carb was used in only two parts lists:

#2: M/T-exc. Calif. but doesn't say 2 or 4wd

#49: As discussed.

So I think you parts list is #49.

You're right about the carb number typo Gary, thanks.

Regarding #2, while the specific section doesn't say 2/W/D or 4/W/D, the general table does say 2/W/D. I'm not sure why they don't match exactly, but I agree #49 seems like the most appropriate match.

[Gary Lewis]

You're right about the carb number typo Gary, thanks.

Regarding #2, while the specific section doesn't say 2/W/D or 4/W/D, the general table does say 2/W/D. I'm not sure why they don't match exactly, but I agree #49 seems like the most appropriate match.

Good catch, I missed that. And I agree, #49 seems to fit best.

[FuzzFace2]

I see what you are saying about the calibration #. Looking at the parts lists I see that #1 and #49 both show the same thing:

1980 F250 - - 2/W/D-M/T exc, Calif.

1980 F-U150/250 - - 4/W/D

I'm wondering if by saying M/T for the 2wd if that also applies to the 4wd?

Also, compare their EGR parts. Most are the same:

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n113528/Calibration_Parts_List_1.jpghttps://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n113528/Calibration_Parts_List_49.jpg

Do you need the EGR working for smog and if not why do you want it working?

I have my reasons but would like to hear yours.

As for missing 1 of the plugs at the air horn would it be the 1 over the adjusting screw for the needle rod?

Bill said you can pop that plug out to adjust the rod & seat to get the AFR where you want it.

With most other carbs you have to pull them apart and change a jet.

That carb & EGR plate look nice and new.

Dave ----

[80bob]

I see what you are saying about the calibration #. Looking at the parts lists I see that #1 and #49 both show the same thing:

1980 F250 - - 2/W/D-M/T exc, Calif.

1980 F-U150/250 - - 4/W/D

I'm wondering if by saying M/T for the 2wd if that also applies to the 4wd?

Also, compare their EGR parts. Most are the same:

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n113528/Calibration_Parts_List_1.jpghttps://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n113528/Calibration_Parts_List_49.jpg

Do you need the EGR working for smog and if not why do you want it working?

I have my reasons but would like to hear yours.

As for missing 1 of the plugs at the air horn would it be the 1 over the adjusting screw for the needle rod?

Bill said you can pop that plug out to adjust the rod & seat to get the AFR where you want it.

With most other carbs you have to pull them apart and change a jet.

That carb & EGR plate look nice and new.

Dave ----

EGR-

No concerns on emissions checks as I live in South Dakota. As for my reason to restore the EGR to stock. I'm not looking to turn any heads off the line, so I'm not concerned with squeezing performance out of the truck. I've read about others (not necessarily Bullnose owners) sometimes experiencing engine ping when the EGR is deleted. For me, there's something to be appreciated about how vehicle manufacturers managed to meet emission requirements while still maintaining a respectable level of performance. It's the same reason I'm trying to repair the thermal choke on the carb instead of going with an all electric choke.

Carburetor Plug-

It is directly over the metering rod adjustment screw. I adjusted the screw to specification before assembling. Is it common to need to adjust this on car? I did install a replacement plug as I wasn't sure if/how the open hole would affect bowl vent function during operation.

Cleaning-

Thanks, I didn't have access to an ultrasonic cleaner so I settled for the Pine Sol soak method. I was surprised how well it worked in combination with some mild scrubbing. I'd just say, be careful not to soak too long with the concentration too high. I did full concentration for about 2 hours followed by a first scrub. Then a soak in 50/50 Pine Sol/water for 8 hours and a final scrub. Then a dip rinse in warm water, compressed air blow out, and spray down with WD 40 to make sure all cleaner and water is out of the holes. This is what the EGR looked like on car before cleaning.

[FuzzFace2]

EGR-

No concerns on emissions checks as I live in South Dakota. As for my reason to restore the EGR to stock. I'm not looking to turn any heads off the line, so I'm not concerned with squeezing performance out of the truck. I've read about others (not necessarily Bullnose owners) sometimes experiencing engine ping when the EGR is deleted. For me, there's something to be appreciated about how vehicle manufacturers managed to meet emission requirements while still maintaining a respectable level of performance. It's the same reason I'm trying to repair the thermal choke on the carb instead of going with an all electric choke.

Carburetor Plug-

It is directly over the metering rod adjustment screw. I adjusted the screw to specification before assembling. Is it common to need to adjust this on car? I did install a replacement plug as I wasn't sure if/how the open hole would affect bowl vent function during operation.

Cleaning-

Thanks, I didn't have access to an ultrasonic cleaner so I settled for the Pine Sol soak method. I was surprised how well it worked in combination with some mild scrubbing. I'd just say, be careful not to soak too long with the concentration too high. I did full concentration for about 2 hours followed by a first scrub. Then a soak in 50/50 Pine Sol/water for 8 hours and a final scrub. Then a dip rinse in warm water, compressed air blow out, and spray down with WD 40 to make sure all cleaner and water is out of the holes. This is what the EGR looked like on car before cleaning.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n113596/IMG_20220205_114901~2.jpg

Got you on the EGR mine is not working and I am adjusting the timing to get rid of pinging.

The plug, I dont think there is a need to adjust it 99% of the time and with out a AFR gauge dont know if you could adjust. If you did not put the plug back in would the air filter to carb gasket seal it?

I have not looked that close at mine to see if it would seal. I need to pullmy carb apart again and check it out as it may also be missing a part inside? I do have a AFR gauge and at times the reading just do look right and why I need to open it up again.

Never thought of Pine Sol and I have a ultrasonic cleaner too.

Dave ----