FuzzFace2 Posted February 12, 2022 Share Posted February 12, 2022 maybe so. i just hate that we have gotten to the point of believing a "cheap Chinese" anything is the answer. feels like giving up to me. Can I get an amen? certainly, we have a rebuilder among us who may have a good yf on the shelf. I only have a yfa and its modified or I would make it available. on second thought I just removed the exact drivetrain he should have from my newest project lefty. carb has not been rebuilt or even run-in years but that may be an option. I am a little late coming back to the party The real issue with the feed back system is not the 2 big items, carb & dist. but all the little things that make the computer happy and to let it make adjustments as needed. Have just 1 of the 3 relays / valves on the valve cover go bad and the system goes in to "limp mode". Now try and find the needed part and you can get a lot older before you find one and it will most likely be used and who knows if it works? That is why if there is no smog check to just scrap the feed back system and go old school carb & dist. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock Posted February 26, 2022 Author Share Posted February 26, 2022 The first pic shows a DS-II ignition module. And if I remember correctly the feedback carbs got the TFI ignition. Right, Matt? But maybe we need a better shot of the carb with the air cleaner off. So I think I’ll get a single barrel carb with non-feedback. I just need to choose either climatic choke or electric choke. I’ll probably get one from the National Carb site below. https://nationalcarburetors.com/ford-trucks_c_292.html_6-cylinder-1-barrel-carburetor_1982 Could anyone recommend one on that webpage? At the moment I have a manual choke but it would be nice to have it be automatic. I thought about going 2bbl with an adapter but I don’t want to overkill this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 26, 2022 Share Posted February 26, 2022 So I think I’ll get a single barrel carb with non-feedback. I just need to choose either climatic choke or electric choke. I’ll probably get one from the National Carb site below. https://nationalcarburetors.com/ford-trucks_c_292.html_6-cylinder-1-barrel-carburetor_1982 Could anyone recommend one on that webpage? At the moment I have a manual choke but it would be nice to have it be automatic. I thought about going 2bbl with an adapter but I don’t want to overkill this. Personally I'd go with the electric choke as it is probable that your hot air tube is rusted off, which is why someone converted to manual choke. The electric choke isn't quite as good at determining the temp of the engine so doesn't get the choke "right" in as many cases as the climatic choke, but it works pretty well. An example of that is in restarting the truck in cold weather when the engine is still warm. The carburetor will cool faster than the exhaust manifold due to the amount of metal in each. So when you restart the electric choke will dial in more choke than the climatic one will. But it still will work. So I'd go with ND1506. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock Posted March 28, 2022 Author Share Posted March 28, 2022 Personally I'd go with the electric choke as it is probable that your hot air tube is rusted off, which is why someone converted to manual choke. The electric choke isn't quite as good at determining the temp of the engine so doesn't get the choke "right" in as many cases as the climatic choke, but it works pretty well. An example of that is in restarting the truck in cold weather when the engine is still warm. The carburetor will cool faster than the exhaust manifold due to the amount of metal in each. So when you restart the electric choke will dial in more choke than the climatic one will. But it still will work. So I'd go with ND1506. I removed the old carb. I wonder if part of the rough starting and idle problem was exacerbated by possible vacuum leak? I could jiggle the carb before I remove it. It seemed loose. Here is a picture of the intake after the carb was removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted March 28, 2022 Share Posted March 28, 2022 I removed the old carb. I wonder if part of the rough starting and idle problem was exacerbated by possible vacuum leak? I could jiggle the carb before I remove it. It seemed loose. Here is a picture of the intake after the carb was removed. loose carb bolt/nuts is actually in some of the service manuals as a possible cause for rough idle/poor performance. as a unique part of the ford 4.9 . the yf carb is also known for the carb base plate screws coming loose and causing a vacuum leak within the carb. while you have it off check those also. they should be a number 3 Phillips but I seem to remember some torx headed ones too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted March 28, 2022 Share Posted March 28, 2022 loose carb bolt/nuts is actually in some of the service manuals as a possible cause for rough idle/poor performance. as a unique part of the ford 4.9 . the yf carb is also known for the carb base plate screws coming loose and causing a vacuum leak within the carb. while you have it off check those also. they should be a number 3 Phillips but I seem to remember some torx headed ones too Yep the carbs like to come loose I think I would have tighten it up to see if that fixed it and gone from there as it could save you some coin. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock Posted March 31, 2022 Author Share Posted March 31, 2022 Yep the carbs like to come loose I think I would have tighten it up to see if that fixed it and gone from there as it could save you some coin. Dave ---- Well I installed the new non feedback YFA electric choke carb and reconnected everything except the electric. I’m wondering which wire from the truck to connect to the electric choke? See the image below. Any suggestions? I tried the single white ended connection but when I started it the rpms ramped up really fast and then it died. Once I make the correct wire connection, the fun begins adjusting the carb - I’ve never done that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 Well I installed the new non feedback YFA electric choke carb and reconnected everything except the electric. I’m wondering which wire from the truck to connect to the electric choke? See the image below. Any suggestions? I tried the single white ended connection but when I started it the rpms ramped up really fast and then it died. Once I make the correct wire connection, the fun begins adjusting the carb - I’ve never done that. I'm guessing that the reason the RPM's went up is that the fast idle kicked in, which is exactly what it should do. The fast idle RPM is adjustable, so that's not a big worry. And it may have died because the choke didn't come off very fast. There are two ways to hook up a full-electric choke: Quick & Dirty: The white/black wire (white with a black stripe) comes from the alternator's stator circuit and supplies ~7 volts. This can be used to heat the choke but it will take a lot longer than full battery voltage. I've used it and it works fairly well. Proper Way: Ford used a relay, as shown below from the '85 EVTM, to power a full electric choke. The relay gets its power from the always-hot terminal of the starter relay and is pulled in by that white/black wire from the alternator. If you don't mind doing some wiring then go for the relay. But if you just want to get it on the road for a test use the wire from the alternator. It won't pull the choke off nearly as fast as battery voltage, so you'll have to adjust the choke some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock Posted April 10, 2022 Author Share Posted April 10, 2022 I'm guessing that the reason the RPM's went up is that the fast idle kicked in, which is exactly what it should do. The fast idle RPM is adjustable, so that's not a big worry. And it may have died because the choke didn't come off very fast. There are two ways to hook up a full-electric choke: Quick & Dirty: The white/black wire (white with a black stripe) comes from the alternator's stator circuit and supplies ~7 volts. This can be used to heat the choke but it will take a lot longer than full battery voltage. I've used it and it works fairly well. Proper Way: Ford used a relay, as shown below from the '85 EVTM, to power a full electric choke. The relay gets its power from the always-hot terminal of the starter relay and is pulled in by that white/black wire from the alternator. If you don't mind doing some wiring then go for the relay. But if you just want to get it on the road for a test use the wire from the alternator. It won't pull the choke off nearly as fast as battery voltage, so you'll have to adjust the choke some. Thanks for the advice. I got out the voltmeter and found that one of the female spade connections in the connector coming from the distributor/ignition had ~12 V (only when the key was on) so I just wired that to the electric choke. When it warmed up, the choke opened so I think the choke is working. I was able to make adjustments to this new YFA electric choke 1 bbl non-feedback carb but I still have a problem. I adjusted the idle mixture screw, curb idle screw and fast idle screw. There was a surging up and down in the rpm's every few seconds during idle and so the only adjustment I could make to fix that was to screw the curb idle screw in ,mashing the spring down (a bit more than seemed appropriate to me). The idle mixture screw didn't seem to cause much change when I adjusted it. I think I screwed the curb idle in too far because when I went for a (very short) drive, I put it in first gear and I didn't need to push the throttle to move, it did it on its own, the throttle almost seems too responsive. Any ideas on how I should proceed? I'd like to reference a document that could illustrate what vacuum hoses need connected and to where. Does anyone know of one? There are several factor plugged ports on the carb that I'm not using. Thanks in advance for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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