Choke adjustments and Cheap Chinese carburetor WARNING

[LARIAT 85]

Do you guys think I could put that metal plate in front of the choke housing? To reduce cool air from front of engine. The choke housing might read hot enough to let it open fully.

Yes. That is why Ford put that plate there. So put it back!

I'm also considering trying to get the hot air tube in contact with the exhaust manifold to put more heat into the tube going to carb. If I can bend it over to be in contact, might be able to run a hose clamp around it all.

I just thought of something:

When I first put together my choke stove, I sandwiched a section of aluminum tubing inside of the choke stove dome with the choke stove mesh filter inside of it, and that assembly was clamped down on the exhaust header. Then I pushed the two choke tubes into either end of the dome, which went into that slighter larger tube with the filter media. I seem to remember I had the same problem you are having.

So I replaced that section of aluminum tubing inside the choke stove dome with a piece of copper tubing. And that mostly solved the problem. Now it got hot enough to open the choke completely, but the choke plate was somewhat loose.

What made it work perfectly is when I connected the electric assist choke cap to the back of the alternator. Now when the engine is up to full operating temperature, the choke plate is completely vertical and held open tightly.

Another advantage of the electric assist is that I never have to make seasonal adjustments to the choke.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I tried it, Gary. And it worked! Took a little longer than I thought, but that may be me. But it worked.

Unfortunately, it's raining and on my test drive at turn around point, truck started missing badly. I pulled under a leaky carpet at a church, found nothing amiss. Figured I'd limp home. It cleared up and ran fine by the time I got home.

So I'll be waiting till it stops raining before I try it again. And my heat seems to be sick in defrost position. Dang it. Frustrating.

But your tip seems to have worked for the moment. Thanks

Good! I'm glad it worked.

[rcarlisle]

Do you guys think I could put that metal plate in front of the choke housing? To reduce cool air from front of engine. The choke housing might read hot enough to let it open fully.

Yes. That is why Ford put that plate there. So put it back!

It wasn't on there when I got the truck. So I scavenged the one off the cheap Chinese Carb. And the screw even worked! Guess I'll just let that one sit and use it for learning purposes and whatevr parts might can be used. lol May try the electric assist cap off of it to see if it helps make sure we're getting the choke opened fully all the time.

I need to find my spacer I had to have for the chinese carb or trim the plate so air cleaner housing will fit down.

Thanks for all the help. Hopefully if someone else sometime is having issues, they can learn from my experiences. I did read a LOT of posts on here and FTE, plus YT vids to get to this point.

This year looks to be a year of figuring out all the things that the PO and garage that did engine install did that could have been done better. Refining and improving the old truck instead of letting it slide into a worse case of disrepair. The PO sold it because he couldn't afford to continue his "restoration" because Covid had him out of funds.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Do you guys think I could put that metal plate in front of the choke housing? To reduce cool air from front of engine. The choke housing might read hot enough to let it open fully.

Yes. That is why Ford put that plate there. So put it back!

It wasn't on there when I got the truck. So I scavenged the one off the cheap Chinese Carb. And the screw even worked! Guess I'll just let that one sit and use it for learning purposes and whatevr parts might can be used. lol May try the electric assist cap off of it to see if it helps make sure we're getting the choke opened fully all the time.

I need to find my spacer I had to have for the chinese carb or trim the plate so air cleaner housing will fit down.

Thanks for all the help. Hopefully if someone else sometime is having issues, they can learn from my experiences. I did read a LOT of posts on here and FTE, plus YT vids to get to this point.

This year looks to be a year of figuring out all the things that the PO and garage that did engine install did that could have been done better. Refining and improving the old truck instead of letting it slide into a worse case of disrepair. The PO sold it because he couldn't afford to continue his "restoration" because Covid had him out of funds.

There are always things to do to these trucks to make them better. Frequently it is better than the PO, or his ham-handed mechanics, made it. And after that you can make it better than stock. But there's always "better" to be had.

[LARIAT 85]

Do you guys think I could put that metal plate in front of the choke housing? To reduce cool air from front of engine. The choke housing might read hot enough to let it open fully.

Yes. That is why Ford put that plate there. So put it back!

It wasn't on there when I got the truck. So I scavenged the one off the cheap Chinese Carb. And the screw even worked! Guess I'll just let that one sit and use it for learning purposes and whatevr parts might can be used. lol May try the electric assist cap off of it to see if it helps make sure we're getting the choke opened fully all the time.

I need to find my spacer I had to have for the chinese carb or trim the plate so air cleaner housing will fit down.

Thanks for all the help. Hopefully if someone else sometime is having issues, they can learn from my experiences. I did read a LOT of posts on here and FTE, plus YT vids to get to this point.

This year looks to be a year of figuring out all the things that the PO and garage that did engine install did that could have been done better. Refining and improving the old truck instead of letting it slide into a worse case of disrepair. The PO sold it because he couldn't afford to continue his "restoration" because Covid had him out of funds.

That's the spirit!

You cannot expect these old carbureted vehicles to run as good as newer fuel-injected vehicles when parts are missing or mismatched. But that is just what many people do. (I don't mean you.) Previous owners and incompetent mechanics will often leave off vital engine parts over the years and are dismissed as "smog junk" or "not needed" without really understanding what they do. Just like any modern vehicle with EFI, ALL of the parts need to be there and functioning properly for a carburetor to function as designed.

I have been there. Lucille originally had a feedback carburetor system. When I got her, all of the emissions equipment was long gone. Vacuum hoses were plugged with screws all around the truck. The carburetor was replaced with an older one without the feedback solenoid, so the confused engine computer was always in "limp home" mode. The AOD wouldn't shift right because the carburetor had the wrong linkage on it. The entire choke system was missing, so I had to nurse it when the engine was cold. And it had an open-element air cleaner on it, just like a race car. But it ran like that for years and sounded cool with the low idle and dual exhaust. I didn't know any better, so I dealt with it and thought that was normal for these old carbureted vehicles.

Modern EFI vehicles have an engine computer that can self-tune and trip the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT to tell you if something is not right. These older vehicles can't do that, so you may not realize there is a problem. Then the conclusion is that this is typical behavior for an old vehicle with a carburetor, just like I did. Except it is not. A carbureted vehicle *can* run as well as any modern fuel injection vehicle. Even in very cold weather. But is has to be tuned correctly and with ALL of the required parts!

 

[FuzzFace2]

There are some good things out there that can be confusing. One of those is what had me turning a screw in the wrong direction, which led me to the place I am now. But hopefully on the way back to proper operation.

Randy,not a 302 but a 300 six running EFI manifolds so I had no way to get hot air to the hot air asst. choke assy.

I bought copper tubing that would fit the choke housing and wrapped it around the manifold a few times, think 3 loops. It is hooked to the carb just like the factory did other than the loops.

The first few times I drove the truck to work when the temp was 28* or lower the fast idle would not come off.

I first leaned out the choke by adjusting the housing but did not really help.

Then I was thinking I needed more loops to get more heat in the air. I made sure the loops were as tight to the manifold as I could get them, still not pulling the choke open off fast idle and to add more loops was going to be a PITA!

What worked was header wrap. I think I used about 6 feet in my case and wrapped the loops & manifold to keep the heat in place. That seamed to work as the fast idle dose come off a lot sooner.

I think I seen your post the "loops" are around the head pipe? If so I wonder if the "heat" is getting blown away and not heating the tubing?

Also in your case the hot side of that tube is also out in the open running up to the choke housing.

My hot side is between the block and manifolds, remember its a 300 six.

Could any of that hot air also being cooled being out in the open going to the carb?

Maybe header wrap around the head pipe / tubing and around the tube going to the carb would keep it hot enough to get the choke to open all the way?

The other thing that has me thinking of your set up / testing / checking is are you driving with the air filter housing off? If so more cold air could be blowing across the carb / choke housing and cooling it.

The air filter kind of traps heat and keep cold air from blowing across it.

So far in my case the choke is working as it should after the header wrap.

I can drive the truck right away if I want. Mine is parked in the garage but I start it up back it out, run back in to make sure dogs are in the bedroom with the wife and gates closed so they cant got to the kitchen and lights off before driving. If at work it is like you, settle in belt on and drive no issues.

Just some things that worked for me that may help you or others.

Dave ----

ps I dont know if the choke is open 100% but the AFR meter is not rich like it was before the header wrap.

[85lebaront2]

Randy,not a 302 but a 300 six running EFI manifolds so I had no way to get hot air to the hot air asst. choke assy.

I bought copper tubing that would fit the choke housing and wrapped it around the manifold a few times, think 3 loops. It is hooked to the carb just like the factory did other than the loops.

The first few times I drove the truck to work when the temp was 28* or lower the fast idle would not come off.

I first leaned out the choke by adjusting the housing but did not really help.

Then I was thinking I needed more loops to get more heat in the air. I made sure the loops were as tight to the manifold as I could get them, still not pulling the choke open off fast idle and to add more loops was going to be a PITA!

What worked was header wrap. I think I used about 6 feet in my case and wrapped the loops & manifold to keep the heat in place. That seamed to work as the fast idle dose come off a lot sooner.

I think I seen your post the "loops" are around the head pipe? If so I wonder if the "heat" is getting blown away and not heating the tubing?

Also in your case the hot side of that tube is also out in the open running up to the choke housing.

My hot side is between the block and manifolds, remember its a 300 six.

Could any of that hot air also being cooled being out in the open going to the carb?

Maybe header wrap around the head pipe / tubing and around the tube going to the carb would keep it hot enough to get the choke to open all the way?

The other thing that has me thinking of your set up / testing / checking is are you driving with the air filter housing off? If so more cold air could be blowing across the carb / choke housing and cooling it.

The air filter kind of traps heat and keep cold air from blowing across it.

So far in my case the choke is working as it should after the header wrap.

I can drive the truck right away if I want. Mine is parked in the garage but I start it up back it out, run back in to make sure dogs are in the bedroom with the wife and gates closed so they cant got to the kitchen and lights off before driving. If at work it is like you, settle in belt on and drive no issues.

Just some things that worked for me that may help you or others.

Dave ----

ps I dont know if the choke is open 100% but the AFR meter is not rich like it was before the header wrap.

For a number of years Ford carburetors had a clamp built into the shield on the choke side that held the heater supply hose against the choke cap. This served two purposes, in cold weather it delayed the choke opening by keeping cold coolant against the cap and once the engine was warm in any weather it helped keep it open, or to reopen quickly by having warm or even hot coolant against the cap.

[rcarlisle]

For a number of years Ford carburetors had a clamp built into the shield on the choke side that held the heater supply hose against the choke cap. This served two purposes, in cold weather it delayed the choke opening by keeping cold coolant against the cap and once the engine was warm in any weather it helped keep it open, or to reopen quickly by having warm or even hot coolant against the cap.

 

I have seen that mentioned a couple places, but havean't seen any photos of it - that would be a thought, but I think we are getting closer.

[rcarlisle]

Randy,not a 302 but a 300 six running EFI manifolds so I had no way to get hot air to the hot air asst. choke assy.

I bought copper tubing that would fit the choke housing and wrapped it around the manifold a few times, think 3 loops. It is hooked to the carb just like the factory did other than the loops.

The first few times I drove the truck to work when the temp was 28* or lower the fast idle would not come off.

I first leaned out the choke by adjusting the housing but did not really help.

Then I was thinking I needed more loops to get more heat in the air. I made sure the loops were as tight to the manifold as I could get them, still not pulling the choke open off fast idle and to add more loops was going to be a PITA!

What worked was header wrap. I think I used about 6 feet in my case and wrapped the loops & manifold to keep the heat in place. That seamed to work as the fast idle dose come off a lot sooner.

I think I seen your post the "loops" are around the head pipe? If so I wonder if the "heat" is getting blown away and not heating the tubing?

Also in your case the hot side of that tube is also out in the open running up to the choke housing.

My hot side is between the block and manifolds, remember its a 300 six.

Could any of that hot air also being cooled being out in the open going to the carb?

Maybe header wrap around the head pipe / tubing and around the tube going to the carb would keep it hot enough to get the choke to open all the way?

The other thing that has me thinking of your set up / testing / checking is are you driving with the air filter housing off? If so more cold air could be blowing across the carb / choke housing and cooling it.

The air filter kind of traps heat and keep cold air from blowing across it.

So far in my case the choke is working as it should after the header wrap.

I can drive the truck right away if I want. Mine is parked in the garage but I start it up back it out, run back in to make sure dogs are in the bedroom with the wife and gates closed so they cant got to the kitchen and lights off before driving. If at work it is like you, settle in belt on and drive no issues.

Just some things that worked for me that may help you or others.

Dave ----

ps I dont know if the choke is open 100% but the AFR meter is not rich like it was before the header wrap.

I have studied your setup in other posts and considered doing that. BUT I am afraid to try to remove the manifold for fear of breaking studs. IF I were to get the manifold off, I could actually try to fix the OEM passage.

I have thought on different stuff too. I may try to slide that heat shield UP to hold in the heat that starts on the down pipe. It gets warm, but not too hot to touch. That's I've seen yet. Some ding dong in the past has the dipstick tube hoseclamped to the drivers side manifold and I can say without hesitation that it gets HOT to the top. That's why I think I might try to move that tube over and clamp it to the manifold. OR move the Dorman things up to the side of exh manifold. Just possibilities.

Adding that shield in front of choke linkage seems to have helped as well.

I've done some with the air cleaner housing off, but have got it to a point where I'm starting and driving with the housing on. I have it working pretty well. Wish I had understood the choke arm adjuster before I put the carb on. Can't see the V on the high idle cam with it low and behind the choke housing. Having to work by feel. All this would have been easier a few years ago. For several reasons.

So, I can almost drive off immediately. It takes a few seconds to catch and run good. It sits and stumbles a little unless I give it about 3 presses on the gas. Not enough fuel from the accelerator pump? Idk. It seems to be adjusted to the proper hole. But there is a gap between the arm and the post. That might bear investigation after I get the choke working as a whole. But usually, once it catches properly, it's ready to go by the time I get settled with belt on and my "stuff" secured in the console. Coffee or drink, phone, my "huffers" (I vape).

I'll be glad to get all this done so I can put all the screwdrivers and tools up that are floating in cab and console. the closer I get it to working correctly, the more tools it takes? It's frustrating, rewarding, and educational all at hte same time. I'll be a local carb expert by the time I get it all figured out.

 

[FuzzFace2]

Randy,not a 302 but a 300 six running EFI manifolds so I had no way to get hot air to the hot air asst. choke assy.

I bought copper tubing that would fit the choke housing and wrapped it around the manifold a few times, think 3 loops. It is hooked to the carb just like the factory did other than the loops.

The first few times I drove the truck to work when the temp was 28* or lower the fast idle would not come off.

I first leaned out the choke by adjusting the housing but did not really help.

Then I was thinking I needed more loops to get more heat in the air. I made sure the loops were as tight to the manifold as I could get them, still not pulling the choke open off fast idle and to add more loops was going to be a PITA!

What worked was header wrap. I think I used about 6 feet in my case and wrapped the loops & manifold to keep the heat in place. That seamed to work as the fast idle dose come off a lot sooner.

I think I seen your post the "loops" are around the head pipe? If so I wonder if the "heat" is getting blown away and not heating the tubing?

Also in your case the hot side of that tube is also out in the open running up to the choke housing.

My hot side is between the block and manifolds, remember its a 300 six.

Could any of that hot air also being cooled being out in the open going to the carb?

Maybe header wrap around the head pipe / tubing and around the tube going to the carb would keep it hot enough to get the choke to open all the way?

The other thing that has me thinking of your set up / testing / checking is are you driving with the air filter housing off? If so more cold air could be blowing across the carb / choke housing and cooling it.

The air filter kind of traps heat and keep cold air from blowing across it.

So far in my case the choke is working as it should after the header wrap.

I can drive the truck right away if I want. Mine is parked in the garage but I start it up back it out, run back in to make sure dogs are in the bedroom with the wife and gates closed so they cant got to the kitchen and lights off before driving. If at work it is like you, settle in belt on and drive no issues.

Just some things that worked for me that may help you or others.

Dave ----

ps I dont know if the choke is open 100% but the AFR meter is not rich like it was before the header wrap.

I have studied your setup in other posts and considered doing that. BUT I am afraid to try to remove the manifold for fear of breaking studs. IF I were to get the manifold off, I could actually try to fix the OEM passage.

I have thought on different stuff too. I may try to slide that heat shield UP to hold in the heat that starts on the down pipe. It gets warm, but not too hot to touch. That's I've seen yet. Some ding dong in the past has the dipstick tube hoseclamped to the drivers side manifold and I can say without hesitation that it gets HOT to the top. That's why I think I might try to move that tube over and clamp it to the manifold. OR move the Dorman things up to the side of exh manifold. Just possibilities.

Adding that shield in front of choke linkage seems to have helped as well.

I've done some with the air cleaner housing off, but have got it to a point where I'm starting and driving with the housing on. I have it working pretty well. Wish I had understood the choke arm adjuster before I put the carb on. Can't see the V on the high idle cam with it low and behind the choke housing. Having to work by feel. All this would have been easier a few years ago. For several reasons.

So, I can almost drive off immediately. It takes a few seconds to catch and run good. It sits and stumbles a little unless I give it about 3 presses on the gas. Not enough fuel from the accelerator pump? Idk. It seems to be adjusted to the proper hole. But there is a gap between the arm and the post. That might bear investigation after I get the choke working as a whole. But usually, once it catches properly, it's ready to go by the time I get settled with belt on and my "stuff" secured in the console. Coffee or drink, phone, my "huffers" (I vape).

I'll be glad to get all this done so I can put all the screwdrivers and tools up that are floating in cab and console. the closer I get it to working correctly, the more tools it takes? It's frustrating, rewarding, and educational all at hte same time. I'll be a local carb expert by the time I get it all figured out.

I posted it for you and others if they come across this on a search for "choke".

Is there a way to run copper tubing around the manifold? I dont know if there is room between the manifold & block? A thought you dont need to make loops around the manifold you could make long loops along the out side front to back a few times. Maybe you can slip mechanical wire between block & manifold to hold the tubing close to the manifold.

Anything to get more heat to the tubing, like the header wrap I used.

It does take time to "dial in" carb adjustments like you and timing curves that I am on now.

Dave ----