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1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"


CRittaler

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Did some more work on the truck. Took some photos over the last couple days.

Added the breakers for the trailer brakes. Ran 10awg red down under the truck. 10 awg black for power to the brake controller.

Managed to disconnect the brake light switch and expose the crappy wiring job from the PO

Those wires still need to be fixed, but I found some others that I ended up fixing instead.

I was looking at the wiring harness from the duraspark module over to the engine and found the wires to the oil pressure switch were hacked up and the insulation on the wires to the distributor were cracked.

I didn't have people wire so I had to do the repair with blue.

I spent some time repairing the wires and rewraping the harness.

Chris - You are doing an excellent job. But that ignition harness looked UGLY! I don't know that I've seen one in such bad shape. But it looks much better now. :nabble_smiley_good:

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Chris - You are doing an excellent job. But that ignition harness looked UGLY! I don't know that I've seen one in such bad shape. But it looks much better now. :nabble_smiley_good:

Hi Chris,

Really nice journey, you're taking us along with. I recognise the snapping isolation of the old wiring. If you bend a wire on a short radius, it will just crack. I suppose new wiring is the only right solution :nabble_anim_crazy:

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Hi Chris,

Really nice journey, you're taking us along with. I recognise the snapping isolation of the old wiring. If you bend a wire on a short radius, it will just crack. I suppose new wiring is the only right solution :nabble_anim_crazy:

Thanks!

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Did some more work on the truck. Took some photos over the last couple days.Added the breakers for the trailer brakes. Ran 10awg red down under the truck. 10 awg black for power to the brake controller. Managed to disconnect the brake light switch and expose the crappy wiring job from the POThose wires still need to be fixed, but I found some others that I ended up fixing instead.I was looking at the wiring harness from the duraspark module over to the engine and found the wires to the oil pressure switch were hacked up and the insulation on the wires to the distributor were cracked.I didn't have people wire so I had to do the repair with blue. I spent some time repairing the wires and rewraping the harness.
Finished up the trailer brake wiring in the cab but forgot too take pictures. I don't have the connector wired at the bumper yet, but when I use the lever on the controller the brake lights on the truck light so something is right.Moved on to working on the rest of the gauges. I used a spare bezel that I had that was from a diesel and removed the glow plug panel to let wires through.

 

IMG_20220505_213947.thumb.jpg.518fef23debc36e256111dfade079825.jpg

 

IMG_20220505_224217.thumb.jpg.569294f857c176930ebf56e8c40f2912.jpg

 

IMG_20220505_224233.jpg.7ac8a50dd7a30f5f89f388151df74e31.jpg

 

I don't have the vacuum gauge mounted yet, but it will be down by the AFR gauge.

 

I still have to wire the lights into the dash, but this part is almost done.

 

It would seem that my photos are rotated. I'll fix them when I'm at my pc tomorrow. &nbspFIXED

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Finished up the trailer brake wiring in the cab but forgot too take pictures. I don't have the connector wired at the bumper yet, but when I use the lever on the controller the brake lights on the truck light so something is right.Moved on to working on the rest of the gauges. I used a spare bezel that I had that was from a diesel and removed the glow plug panel to let wires through.

 

 

 

 

I don't have the vacuum gauge mounted yet, but it will be down by the AFR gauge.

 

I still have to wire the lights into the dash, but this part is almost done.

 

It would seem that my photos are rotated. I'll fix them when I'm at my pc tomorrow. &nbspFIXED

Looking very good, Chris.I mounted my gauges in the same spot and really like it, save for two problems. First, my steering wheel was really in the way. So I went to a later model wheel that has the "arms" coming down at a sharper angle, and that really helped. But it doesn't look factory.Second, my oil and temp gauges are the kind with tubes coming to them and that makes it really difficult to take the gauge bezel off if the tubes just go through a hole in the bezel. So I cut a slot in the bezel. You can't see the slot unless you are on the floor looking up, but now I can get the bezel off.
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Looking very good, Chris.

I mounted my gauges in the same spot and really like it, save for two problems. First, my steering wheel was really in the way. So I went to a later model wheel that has the "arms" coming down at a sharper angle, and that really helped. But it doesn't look factory.

Second, my oil and temp gauges are the kind with tubes coming to them and that makes it really difficult to take the gauge bezel off if the tubes just go through a hole in the bezel. So I cut a slot in the bezel. You can't see the slot unless you are on the floor looking up, but now I can get the bezel off.

I'll have to see what these look like going down the road. I can see them pretty well through the hole in the wheel. I specifically went out and bought gauges with electric sending units so that I wouldn't have to deal with the oil line or the coolant probe. I've been taking my time getting it all wired up. Won't be able to work on it again until around Monday, unless I'm feeling adventurous and scarf my lunch so I can work on it during my break.

Working from home with an office in the garage has its downsides. The truck is sitting there waiting to be worked on.

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Looking very good, Chris.

I mounted my gauges in the same spot and really like it, save for two problems. First, my steering wheel was really in the way. So I went to a later model wheel that has the "arms" coming down at a sharper angle, and that really helped. But it doesn't look factory.

Second, my oil and temp gauges are the kind with tubes coming to them and that makes it really difficult to take the gauge bezel off if the tubes just go through a hole in the bezel. So I cut a slot in the bezel. You can't see the slot unless you are on the floor looking up, but now I can get the bezel off.

I'll have to see what these look like going down the road. I can see them pretty well through the hole in the wheel. I specifically went out and bought gauges with electric sending units so that I wouldn't have to deal with the oil line or the coolant probe. I've been taking my time getting it all wired up. Won't be able to work on it again until around Monday, unless I'm feeling adventurous and scarf my lunch so I can work on it during my break.

Working from home with an office in the garage has its downsides. The truck is sitting there waiting to be worked on.

I like the mechanical gauges because they usually have a 270 degree sweep, which makes them easier to read. But they sure are a pain to connect, move, etc.

Anyway, working at home with your project that close must be a pain! Very tempting. :nabble_smiley_oh:

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Finished up the trailer brake wiring in the cab but forgot too take pictures. I don't have the connector wired at the bumper yet, but when I use the lever on the controller the brake lights on the truck light so something is right.Moved on to working on the rest of the gauges. I used a spare bezel that I had that was from a diesel and removed the glow plug panel to let wires through.

 

 

 

 

I don't have the vacuum gauge mounted yet, but it will be down by the AFR gauge.

 

I still have to wire the lights into the dash, but this part is almost done.

 

It would seem that my photos are rotated. I'll fix them when I'm at my pc tomorrow. &nbspFIXED

Found a brake booster in stock at my local Napa so I grabbed it since mine would hiss when pressing the pedal.

 

IMG_20220510_194803.thumb.jpg.7e4d7d4cc59831f7f6842362ba81d230.jpg

 

That was the easiest swap I think I've done. No more hissing work pedal pressure!

 

I also took this time to run the truck for a while and check for fuel leaks, coolant leaks, etc.

 

Snapped some pictures of the gauges during the process.

 

IMG_20220510_194830.thumb.jpg.92f5fb2a016419c69b1028cf9cfce992.jpg

 

IMG_20220510_200241.thumb.jpg.91ed0255358db6fadcf01a77c6897a50.jpg

 

I know that the oil pressure is high. Last year I changed the oil with 15W40 Rotella since that's what I run in all my vehicles.

 

The truck has a recent rebuild unlike my other vehicles so I need to change it back out to 10W30 and see how that looks. Its never been under load with this oil, only idling.

 

My new phone seems to like to rotate my photos... These were all taken in portrait mode. I'll rotate them when I get to my work pc in the morning. I usually post directly from my phone. &nbsp FIXED

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Found a brake booster in stock at my local Napa so I grabbed it since mine would hiss when pressing the pedal.

 

 

That was the easiest swap I think I've done. No more hissing work pedal pressure!

 

I also took this time to run the truck for a while and check for fuel leaks, coolant leaks, etc.

 

Snapped some pictures of the gauges during the process.

 

 

 

I know that the oil pressure is high. Last year I changed the oil with 15W40 Rotella since that's what I run in all my vehicles.

 

The truck has a recent rebuild unlike my other vehicles so I need to change it back out to 10W30 and see how that looks. Its never been under load with this oil, only idling.

 

My new phone seems to like to rotate my photos... These were all taken in portrait mode. I'll rotate them when I get to my work pc in the morning. I usually post directly from my phone. &nbsp FIXED

Glad you got the brake booster sorted. It is comforting when the hiss goes away. But did you notice any brake fluid in the old booster? If so it is likely that the master cylinder is leaking, and that can take out the booster. And the gauges look great. But I wouldn’t change the oil too soon. I’d drive the truck some and see if the pressure doesn’t come down after that. As for rotating pics, each phone has its own position for “normal” and if you find that and take the pics in that position you shouldn’t have to rotate them.
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Glad you got the brake booster sorted. It is comforting when the hiss goes away.

But did you notice any brake fluid in the old booster? If so it is likely that the master cylinder is leaking, and that can take out the booster.

And the gauges look great. But I wouldn’t change the oil too soon. I’d drive the truck some and see if the pressure doesn’t come down after that.

As for rotating pics, each phone has its own position for “normal” and if you find that and take the pics in that position you shouldn’t have to rotate them.

AFR at 14.5. Nice :)

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