CRittaler Posted February 16, 2022 Author Share Posted February 16, 2022 Alternator is bolted in and tensioned. I ordered an aluminum washer kit off Amazon that had M16x25mmx1.5mm as one of the sizes. My calipers showed the M16 to be 18mm ID, a bit larger than needed, but i don't think the rotational mass of the washer is going to cause any balance issues. This let the dual Vbelt pulley clear the case. I ended up having to use some blue loctite in place of the lock washer as there was no where near enough threads for both the washer and nut. I tightened the nut to 2 ugga duggas with the impact and called it good. Pulley spins freely. I wrestled it into place in the smog bracket and lightly tightened the upper mounting bolt. I dropped my vbelt laser alignment fixtures onto the crank and alt and checked the alignment. Looks good to me, but I need to verify now that the alt is fully tensioned. I then removed the adjuster ear and bent it to clear the alt. This was a lot of back and forth to get so that there was only light drag on the adjuster ear. As long as I keep the bolt for the adjuster ear loose while tensioning the belt I can get enough movement. Then I just snug that bolt back up after the adjuster is tight. I have to do something similar on my Samurai since the one wire alt is much larger than the factory on it. So, now I have the 3G bolted in and tensioned, now I have to plan how I want to do the wiring. Finally worked up some motivation to continue working on REDRUM. I started planning out the power distribution. I didn't take a ton of pictures during the process, but here's what I have. I measured the space between the battery and the vacuum ball on the passenger fender and bent up a plate of 18GA sheet metal. I then laid out my fuse holders and fuse/relay box and terminal strips. got those attached and screwed down last night and made a cable to go from the battery to the ANL fuse for the Alternator. I don't have the right size fuses yet, just the ones that came with the holders and a couple from a previous stereo install. The bottom ANL fuse in the picture (200A) is the one for the 3G alternator, I'll be replacing that with a 150A. The ANL fuse above that is for the bus bars at the top, the 250A fuse will be replaced with a ~100A. The dual MAXI fuse holder in the center is what I am using to replace fusible links J and S. The mini ANL fuse in the top left is for the stereo amplifier. The relay box will have all the power feeds coming from the bus bar and the ground side of the bus bar will ground to the fender. I finally got to test my new crimper (thanks for the suggestion Gary) this one will replace my Harbor Freight model. I have to do a little trimming for the cable between the ANL fuse for the alternator and the battery post, it's a bit long right now and the welding cable is quite stiff. I also need to mount the panel to the fender to secure it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 Finally worked up some motivation to continue working on REDRUM. I started planning out the power distribution. I didn't take a ton of pictures during the process, but here's what I have. I measured the space between the battery and the vacuum ball on the passenger fender and bent up a plate of 18GA sheet metal. I then laid out my fuse holders and fuse/relay box and terminal strips. got those attached and screwed down last night and made a cable to go from the battery to the ANL fuse for the Alternator. I don't have the right size fuses yet, just the ones that came with the holders and a couple from a previous stereo install. The bottom ANL fuse in the picture (200A) is the one for the 3G alternator, I'll be replacing that with a 150A. The ANL fuse above that is for the bus bars at the top, the 250A fuse will be replaced with a ~100A. The dual MAXI fuse holder in the center is what I am using to replace fusible links J and S. The mini ANL fuse in the top left is for the stereo amplifier. The relay box will have all the power feeds coming from the bus bar and the ground side of the bus bar will ground to the fender. I finally got to test my new crimper (thanks for the suggestion Gary) this one will replace my Harbor Freight model. I have to do a little trimming for the cable between the ANL fuse for the alternator and the battery post, it's a bit long right now and the welding cable is quite stiff. I also need to mount the panel to the fender to secure it. Very nice. I have something similar planned for the next year or so. Eagerly awaiting progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 Finally worked up some motivation to continue working on REDRUM. I started planning out the power distribution. I didn't take a ton of pictures during the process, but here's what I have. I measured the space between the battery and the vacuum ball on the passenger fender and bent up a plate of 18GA sheet metal. I then laid out my fuse holders and fuse/relay box and terminal strips. got those attached and screwed down last night and made a cable to go from the battery to the ANL fuse for the Alternator. I don't have the right size fuses yet, just the ones that came with the holders and a couple from a previous stereo install. The bottom ANL fuse in the picture (200A) is the one for the 3G alternator, I'll be replacing that with a 150A. The ANL fuse above that is for the bus bars at the top, the 250A fuse will be replaced with a ~100A. The dual MAXI fuse holder in the center is what I am using to replace fusible links J and S. The mini ANL fuse in the top left is for the stereo amplifier. The relay box will have all the power feeds coming from the bus bar and the ground side of the bus bar will ground to the fender. I finally got to test my new crimper (thanks for the suggestion Gary) this one will replace my Harbor Freight model. I have to do a little trimming for the cable between the ANL fuse for the alternator and the battery post, it's a bit long right now and the welding cable is quite stiff. I also need to mount the panel to the fender to secure it. Looking good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 Looking good! Looks good! Your timing is great as I am trying to get some cables made up and replaced in the same area. I hope to get mine done tomorrow. Thanks for the inspiration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 Finally worked up some motivation to continue working on REDRUM. I started planning out the power distribution. I didn't take a ton of pictures during the process, but here's what I have. I measured the space between the battery and the vacuum ball on the passenger fender and bent up a plate of 18GA sheet metal. I then laid out my fuse holders and fuse/relay box and terminal strips. got those attached and screwed down last night and made a cable to go from the battery to the ANL fuse for the Alternator. I don't have the right size fuses yet, just the ones that came with the holders and a couple from a previous stereo install. The bottom ANL fuse in the picture (200A) is the one for the 3G alternator, I'll be replacing that with a 150A. The ANL fuse above that is for the bus bars at the top, the 250A fuse will be replaced with a ~100A. The dual MAXI fuse holder in the center is what I am using to replace fusible links J and S. The mini ANL fuse in the top left is for the stereo amplifier. The relay box will have all the power feeds coming from the bus bar and the ground side of the bus bar will ground to the fender. I finally got to test my new crimper (thanks for the suggestion Gary) this one will replace my Harbor Freight model. I have to do a little trimming for the cable between the ANL fuse for the alternator and the battery post, it's a bit long right now and the welding cable is quite stiff. I also need to mount the panel to the fender to secure it. Looking good! Glad you like that little crimper. Seems to work well for me. But if you are grounding to the fender, make sure the fender itself is well grounded. Many/most aren't. I added grounds like this one to ensure mine are. And I grounded the cab to the engine as well. (And plenty of other grounds.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRittaler Posted February 16, 2022 Author Share Posted February 16, 2022 Looking good! Glad you like that little crimper. Seems to work well for me. But if you are grounding to the fender, make sure the fender itself is well grounded. Many/most aren't. I added grounds like this one to ensure mine are. And I grounded the cab to the engine as well. (And plenty of other grounds.) I'll look at adding grounds in those locations as well! In the last picture of my post there is a 2AWG black cable on the left hand side, that is directly connected to the battery terminal. Coming off the negative post of the battery, I have 1 2AWG that goes to the fender, and another 2AWG that runs down the frame and then a short chunk of 2AWG that goes from the frame to the engine in place of the factory ground cable that was cracked and falling apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRittaler Posted February 16, 2022 Author Share Posted February 16, 2022 Very nice. I have something similar planned for the next year or so. Eagerly awaiting progress. I'm going to try and get some more work done on it tonight. We'll see if my motivation holds lol. Looking good! Thanks! slowly making progress. I'm sure it'll speed up as the weather get warmer and we have more daylight. Looks good! Your timing is great as I am trying to get some cables made up and replaced in the same area. I hope to get mine done tomorrow. Thanks for the inspiration. Thanks! I find myself redoing wiring on a lot of projects so I decided to pick up a better crimper and I like the Flexoprene 2AWG welding cable as it's relatively flexible and it's standardized, unlike car audio cables that are more likely to be copper clad aluminum. I sacrifice some flexibility for the standardization, worth it in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRittaler Posted February 19, 2022 Author Share Posted February 19, 2022 Very nice. I have something similar planned for the next year or so. Eagerly awaiting progress. I'm going to try and get some more work done on it tonight. We'll see if my motivation holds lol. Looking good! Thanks! slowly making progress. I'm sure it'll speed up as the weather get warmer and we have more daylight. Looks good! Your timing is great as I am trying to get some cables made up and replaced in the same area. I hope to get mine done tomorrow. Thanks for the inspiration. Thanks! I find myself redoing wiring on a lot of projects so I decided to pick up a better crimper and I like the Flexoprene 2AWG welding cable as it's relatively flexible and it's standardized, unlike car audio cables that are more likely to be copper clad aluminum. I sacrifice some flexibility for the standardization, worth it in my opinion. Did a little bit more work on the wiring Crimped a bunch of 2AWG cable for various connections. What's not shown is I rewraped the factory harness under the plate, I extended the green/red-stripe wire for the alternator and removed fusible link S for my fuel pumps and extended the yellow wire up through the plate. Next to make is a power cable for the dual maxi fuse block and I have to make the ground wire for the bus bar. Then I can start wiring the fuse block and relays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 19, 2022 Share Posted February 19, 2022 Did a little bit more work on the wiring Crimped a bunch of 2AWG cable for various connections. What's not shown is I rewraped the factory harness under the plate, I extended the green/red-stripe wire for the alternator and removed fusible link S for my fuel pumps and extended the yellow wire up through the plate. Next to make is a power cable for the dual maxi fuse block and I have to make the ground wire for the bus bar. Then I can start wiring the fuse block and relays. I like it! Nice and clean! But what is the thing in the middle of your plate with the two yellow wires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRittaler Posted February 19, 2022 Author Share Posted February 19, 2022 I like it! Nice and clean! But what is the thing in the middle of your plate with the two yellow wires? Thats the dual maxifuse holder The heavy yellow wire is the cab power after removing the ammeter shunt. The thinner yellow wire is my fuel pumps after removng fuse link S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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