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1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"


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The PO and whoever helped him are those people for sure.

On a side note, I'm working on an auxiliary power distribution setup to put near the battery. For on in Run/Acc I plan on utilizing fuse location 14 (Power Windows) since I don't have those there's no fuse installed, but I can install one and wire to it and use that to trigger my key-on relays.

My intention is to have a High beam relay, low beam relay, horn relay, auxiliary gauges relay, electric choke relay and maybe a couple others.

I only have 2 fusible links by the battery so those will be replaced with 30A Maxi fuses. Eventually I plan to either swap to a 3G or to a Powermaster 1 wire so I also have a 175A ANL fuse+holder that I will be mounting and I will be cleaning up the stereo amplifier B+ wiring to make it all nice and neat.

I think this will all be on a sheet metal plate that will fasten to the plastic inner fender and to the body where my battery grounds to.

I plan on drawing all this up before starting so I'll likely post the drawings.

I like that plan - save for the possibility of the Powermaster. I am NOT a fan of those alternators and that's because they don't sell parts for them. You are supposed to send them in for repair. Yeah, sure, when mine goes out in the back of beyond I'll wait for it to be shipped both ways and repaired. :nabble_smiley_oh:

When I got BB the Powermaster failed. So I called them and discovered the above. Scott now has that one, but it took me several years to find someone who would take it. :nabble_smiley_evil:

Now I'm running a stock 130A 3G, which I can get at any parts store. However, I have nothing against mod'ing the 3G for more current 'cause you can still downgrade to get home if that one fails. In fact, I've already done that for Dad's truck.

As for the power distribution box itself, I'm running a '95 F-series PDB and it houses a number of those relays and fuses. But Scott/kramtocs is running an aftermarket box, which might be easier.

And I replaced the fuse links with fuses:

  • Ckt 37, which was Fuse Link M to the main fuse box in the cab, has a 60A fuse

  • Ckt 38, which was Fuse Link L to the headlight switch and some fuses, has a 20A fuse

  • Ckt 37, which was Fuse Link S to the fuel pump, has a 20A fuse
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The PO and whoever helped him are those people for sure.

On a side note, I'm working on an auxiliary power distribution setup to put near the battery. For on in Run/Acc I plan on utilizing fuse location 14 (Power Windows) since I don't have those there's no fuse installed, but I can install one and wire to it and use that to trigger my key-on relays.

My intention is to have a High beam relay, low beam relay, horn relay, auxiliary gauges relay, electric choke relay and maybe a couple others.

I only have 2 fusible links by the battery so those will be replaced with 30A Maxi fuses. Eventually I plan to either swap to a 3G or to a Powermaster 1 wire so I also have a 175A ANL fuse+holder that I will be mounting and I will be cleaning up the stereo amplifier B+ wiring to make it all nice and neat.

I think this will all be on a sheet metal plate that will fasten to the plastic inner fender and to the body where my battery grounds to.

I plan on drawing all this up before starting so I'll likely post the drawings.

I did something very similar for my truck, it's wiring was in terrible shape and I was installing a bunch of new stuff (custom dashboard, stereo/amp, transmission controller, etc.). I chose to use an aluminum plate, for corrosion resistance.

One thing you should consider on your relay trigger wire is whether you want only hot in run, or hot in run and start. That will of course depend on the accessories you add. For example, my transmission controller requires power in both start and run.

You kind of implied that you want to control the headlights through this arrangement, but that will not allow the headlights to be on in key off position, which the factory setup would allow. Maybe that's what you want, but if you want to follow the factory setup more closely, you can just get a headlight relay harness separate from the rest of your relay board stuff. Then it would follow the factory electrical design, but take the load off the headlight switch and the old wiring. That's what I've done on my truck. Such harnesses are pretty cheap and readily available. Here's an example (not sure this is the one I have on my truck).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124148130601?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1ce7ce2329:g:eggAAOSwHNhej5DM&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACsPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSxXDXcCydCuSj2Tq2S%252F3GnmYdmgMU94XLgjPGlAD7MtmMagc5M7RN%252FEdOAhcX%252BcmEbNKU7bz02t4s%252FpwW8Frvbo7MrO6BSTLqUBIqo0p4yFmmolG5mD4RWQxz8u1na98B4%252B708yJ9Zd7IbW0qkOn%252BFUQOI3E8ktDi82iyvgZzeLfWT4cUcaHoCTFRZHZpKs2LI8DsvHJIUvfK3Dg%252FZ%252FqLFWaFOEOG8ErpzzkcBSxL10NhxuK5EI9Hnts2VUdqkwIdkD%252F%252FxxjpYiPPwAhxVSUPE%252FMZycDH7SqYAqg5%252BW6hEwPJJkDqh40kPtm2dLbVUh%252FARv2oa%252BC3JR2CV7Yl4wWXXxURIdNjTtpTkssTLpXSvVbCxoEcxzewBb0rYSGR529kfzL2Qz16QtAJKEzo%252FDYJoUil9HRtG662jYH7Zy7rX9CGzML9EI4h%252FkAwa2tE5w3Sq0jGiEmUeN%252BGumeUKKKy%252FAD952sHujTzsFIJf5IwTQWcqFMEbiGLm%252BQIaugXn40Wa8QbvoMj9PMAjVBHrD3Bbc4bty65tzG18prG1ZhrSOnAdKyzNUSblryY4COMFbDkVF%252BPemEptRTuGBdgZl4%252FcCMesnWlVKfRumRFi9%252Bd1zFx5dVnfrvpLQsoJexBeOMl38PQ%252BbmGxh9XXNIHrXQ8QxqJCbmDLxKRLHnAbQNCdYp2dyQJAV2NB5Hkh0I5CXB8bWQn14dBNqNPpBeh5nGPHU1is9CsXq%252BnRkbAFYMm8TT5bdXaxKSkC9%252FjVtv%252FGSY7GwQm4DygqdqMqNbImrDPawno2XNuxTrvOkMy%252BIuANyQ3c181UD1RsGlHPCeGk63p0VmbKMuuvipXcJ7GSPJ2GSjUcbs67PKig3uzRGg4iU4%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABFBMzuLk8c1f

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The PO and whoever helped him are those people for sure.

On a side note, I'm working on an auxiliary power distribution setup to put near the battery. For on in Run/Acc I plan on utilizing fuse location 14 (Power Windows) since I don't have those there's no fuse installed, but I can install one and wire to it and use that to trigger my key-on relays.

My intention is to have a High beam relay, low beam relay, horn relay, auxiliary gauges relay, electric choke relay and maybe a couple others.

I only have 2 fusible links by the battery so those will be replaced with 30A Maxi fuses. Eventually I plan to either swap to a 3G or to a Powermaster 1 wire so I also have a 175A ANL fuse+holder that I will be mounting and I will be cleaning up the stereo amplifier B+ wiring to make it all nice and neat.

I think this will all be on a sheet metal plate that will fasten to the plastic inner fender and to the body where my battery grounds to.

I plan on drawing all this up before starting so I'll likely post the drawings.

If helpful --

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Factory-wiring-locations-for-adding-additional-circuits-tp69894.html

My aluminum plate mounting pads:

Passenger side starts here: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/The-Camano-Experience-tp35327p51239.html

Driver side: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/The-Camano-Experience-tp35327p57525.html

There is now another relay box in the empty spot

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This is exactly what I will be doing! Thanks!

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This is exactly what I will be doing! Thanks!

Modernizing the wiring was my favorite part of redoing the 86. A lot of little things you can do to make a big difference.

Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

The Powermasters aren't that bad...OK, I got a bad starter out of the box... and a bad alternator out of the box... and paid for diagnostics, shipping, and a new alternator...:nabble_smiley_happy:

Even after all that though, now that they are both working great I do really like them. I would definitely recommend buying from Summit as they have excellent customer service if you happen to need it.

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Modernizing the wiring was my favorite part of redoing the 86. A lot of little things you can do to make a big difference.

Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

The Powermasters aren't that bad...OK, I got a bad starter out of the box... and a bad alternator out of the box... and paid for diagnostics, shipping, and a new alternator...:nabble_smiley_happy:

Even after all that though, now that they are both working great I do really like them. I would definitely recommend buying from Summit as they have excellent customer service if you happen to need it.

I run a 140A powermaster on my 1988 Suzuki Samurai. I had a misalignment and cracked the front case, they ran diagnostics and sold me a refurb for like $80 and were extremely responsive via email and phone.

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Modernizing the wiring was my favorite part of redoing the 86. A lot of little things you can do to make a big difference.

Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

The Powermasters aren't that bad...OK, I got a bad starter out of the box... and a bad alternator out of the box... and paid for diagnostics, shipping, and a new alternator...:nabble_smiley_happy:

Even after all that though, now that they are both working great I do really like them. I would definitely recommend buying from Summit as they have excellent customer service if you happen to need it.

I run a 140A powermaster on my 1988 Suzuki Samurai. I had a misalignment and cracked the front case, they ran diagnostics and sold me a refurb for like $80 and were extremely responsive via email and phone.

Here is a very preliminary schematic I threw together in Visio instead of working since it's well after quitting time. I'm sure I'll figure out more circuits to add.

Aux_wiring.jpg.446a74e83222885b8391758bf76ec648.jpg

For the factory headlight wiring I plan on using a male H4 connector to plug into the factory headlight wires at the passenger headlight, then run a new harness to both bulbs. This is what I did on my Samurai and it worked great.

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Here is a very preliminary schematic I threw together in Visio instead of working since it's well after quitting time. I'm sure I'll figure out more circuits to add.

For the factory headlight wiring I plan on using a male H4 connector to plug into the factory headlight wires at the passenger headlight, then run a new harness to both bulbs. This is what I did on my Samurai and it worked great.

I like the wiring diagram. And I agree with plugging into the headlight harness.

But, I don't agree with what I think you are planning on the starter. If you are planning to run a relay in the PDB to directly pull in the starter I think you are going to have problems. I did that initially and ran into problems of the starter chattering. By that I mean it came in, dropped out, and came in again all in a few milliseconds. Sounded horrible.

So I called Powermaster since I'm running one of their starters and whomever I drew as a tech said NO!!!! Do NOT use a cube relay. Pull it in with the fender-mounted Ford relay. (Those weren't the exact words, but pretty close and the emphasis was there.) I rewired to use a fender-mounted relay and the problem was solved.

And, by the way, I'm not saying Powermaster doesn't make good stuff. Just that I want to be able to replace the alternator with something off the shelf or from a local salvage w/o rewiring, and that won't work with their alternator. But it can work with their starter.

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I like the wiring diagram. And I agree with plugging into the headlight harness.

But, I don't agree with what I think you are planning on the starter. If you are planning to run a relay in the PDB to directly pull in the starter I think you are going to have problems. I did that initially and ran into problems of the starter chattering. By that I mean it came in, dropped out, and came in again all in a few milliseconds. Sounded horrible.

So I called Powermaster since I'm running one of their starters and whomever I drew as a tech said NO!!!! Do NOT use a cube relay. Pull it in with the fender-mounted Ford relay. (Those weren't the exact words, but pretty close and the emphasis was there.) I rewired to use a fender-mounted relay and the problem was solved.

And, by the way, I'm not saying Powermaster doesn't make good stuff. Just that I want to be able to replace the alternator with something off the shelf or from a local salvage w/o rewiring, and that won't work with their alternator. But it can work with their starter.

Sorry, I wasn't clear in my diagram. The starter solenoid shown is the stock one for the truck. I just used the same symbol as the rest to show where the connection point would be for the relay wiring.

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