Gary Lewis Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 Managed to get the rear tank out. I had to use my transmission jack since my floor jack couldn't reach. PO used the old style fill neck, but I looked at the tank and it doesn't have any kind of clip or tube for either style. They used some genetic fuel hose with a coil embedded in it. In regards to the tank, is it supposed to have some kind of tube holder for the inner hose like the front tank? You can see the PO also hacked up the fuel lines and the pump power. I will fix the pictures when I get to my pc in the morning. All the Bullnose tanks I've seen have the clip for the inner hose. But did your truck even have a vent hose inside the larger hose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRittaler Posted July 20, 2022 Author Share Posted July 20, 2022 All the Bullnose tanks I've seen have the clip for the inner hose. But did your truck even have a vent hose inside the larger hose? for this rear tank, I was expecting a hacked up one like the front, but in this case, no there's no inner hose at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRittaler Posted July 20, 2022 Author Share Posted July 20, 2022 for this rear tank, I was expecting a hacked up one like the front, but in this case, no there's no inner hose at all. I just checked the inlet to the tank and there's no baffle, tube, or clip for the inner hose, I can look straight in and see the float bobbing in the gas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 I just checked the inlet to the tank and there's no baffle, tube, or clip for the inner hose, I can look straight in and see the float bobbing in the gas. That's a recipe for looooong fills at the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRittaler Posted July 21, 2022 Author Share Posted July 21, 2022 I just checked the inlet to the tank and there's no baffle, tube, or clip for the inner hose, I can look straight in and see the float bobbing in the gas. Rear tank is for sure an 87-89 tank. Sending unit is very different from the one that I ordered.... Has anyone used the 87-89 tanks with an 85-86 sender? The hole is the same size, but the angle of the pipes is very different as is the pump. My original plan was to pull the pump and swap it onto the new sender, but that won't work now. I'm going to take a closer look at the other tank I have since it's an old one. I might look a kludging the modern fill neck into the old tank unless I can make the sender work in the 88 tank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 21, 2022 Share Posted July 21, 2022 Rear tank is for sure an 87-89 tank. Sending unit is very different from the one that I ordered.... Has anyone used the 87-89 tanks with an 85-86 sender? The hole is the same size, but the angle of the pipes is very different as is the pump. My original plan was to pull the pump and swap it onto the new sender, but that won't work now. I'm going to take a closer look at the other tank I have since it's an old one. I might look a kludging the modern fill neck into the old tank unless I can make the sender work in the 88 tank I think you'll also find that the tab that orients the pump/sender combo is in a different place between the Bullnose & Bricknose tanks. So it isn't easy to mix and match. And, since the resistance range is both different and backwards on the Bricknose sender, using one of them on a Bullnose gauge gives totally wrong readings. But you can correct that with a Metermatch. Still, it is best to use a Bullnose pump/sender in a Bullnose tank. (I say that, but I'm running '96 tanks and pump/sending units, aka fuel delivery modules.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRittaler Posted July 21, 2022 Author Share Posted July 21, 2022 I think you'll also find that the tab that orients the pump/sender combo is in a different place between the Bullnose & Bricknose tanks. So it isn't easy to mix and match. And, since the resistance range is both different and backwards on the Bricknose sender, using one of them on a Bullnose gauge gives totally wrong readings. But you can correct that with a Metermatch. Still, it is best to use a Bullnose pump/sender in a Bullnose tank. (I say that, but I'm running '96 tanks and pump/sending units, aka fuel delivery modules.) alright, I ran out to Lowes and grabbed some Polypropylene corrugated hose and I'm going to make a new vent tube using that and swap back to the '85 tank. I don't know why they swapped in the first place. As best I can tell there's nothing wrong with the tank, just the float is missing from the old sender. What I'm using is some dishwasher drain tube. Polypropylene is listed as being reasonably gasoline resistant. Worst case, it fails right away and I have to pull the tank again. I expect the hose will soften and swell a little, but it's not being submerged, which is what all the tests are doing, submersion for 30 days is a typical test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRittaler Posted August 1, 2022 Author Share Posted August 1, 2022 alright, I ran out to Lowes and grabbed some Polypropylene corrugated hose and I'm going to make a new vent tube using that and swap back to the '85 tank. I don't know why they swapped in the first place. As best I can tell there's nothing wrong with the tank, just the float is missing from the old sender. What I'm using is some dishwasher drain tube. Polypropylene is listed as being reasonably gasoline resistant. Worst case, it fails right away and I have to pull the tank again. I expect the hose will soften and swell a little, but it's not being submerged, which is what all the tests are doing, submersion for 30 days is a typical test. It took me a bit of time to get back to the truck again. I had to change gauges in my daily and that was a bunch of fab work. I ended up having to drop the rear tank twice. First time was the initial drop. I ended up swapping back to the original tank for the truck and using some Polypropylene dishwasher drain hose for the vent tube. We'll see how long it lasts. I got the tank reinstalled and went to fill it when I discovered that I didn't have the hose clamp on the tank tight enough and ended up dumping gasoline all over my garage floor. I had to pull the tank like 90% of the way back out to get at the hose clamp and have enough space to get a wrench on it. Once I got the tank back in again all was well. Same issue as the front tank now though, 5Gal brought the gauge up to E. We'll see what it reads when full once I have the thing on the road. I also replaced the fuel lines to this tank. This is the only picture I took during this process, but you can see what shape the factory lines are in. They had been hacked up in a couple spots and spliced with fuel hose. I've replaced them entirely with fuel hose. My next steps are to look at the routing and add sacrificial hose over the fuel lines in any spots that look like the could be struck or rub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRittaler Posted August 31, 2022 Author Share Posted August 31, 2022 It took me a bit of time to get back to the truck again. I had to change gauges in my daily and that was a bunch of fab work. I ended up having to drop the rear tank twice. First time was the initial drop. I ended up swapping back to the original tank for the truck and using some Polypropylene dishwasher drain hose for the vent tube. We'll see how long it lasts. I got the tank reinstalled and went to fill it when I discovered that I didn't have the hose clamp on the tank tight enough and ended up dumping gasoline all over my garage floor. I had to pull the tank like 90% of the way back out to get at the hose clamp and have enough space to get a wrench on it. Once I got the tank back in again all was well. Same issue as the front tank now though, 5Gal brought the gauge up to E. We'll see what it reads when full once I have the thing on the road. I also replaced the fuel lines to this tank. This is the only picture I took during this process, but you can see what shape the factory lines are in. They had been hacked up in a couple spots and spliced with fuel hose. I've replaced them entirely with fuel hose. My next steps are to look at the routing and add sacrificial hose over the fuel lines in any spots that look like the could be struck or rub. I don't really have any pictures for this update, but I have made progress on the truck. All the fuel and return lines have been replaced with standard fuel hose and protected with heater hose for abrasions. Anywhere that didn't have a barbed fitting I double clamped with fuel injection clamps. I ran 3/8" for the supply and 5/16 for the return, then I bought a lot of 3/4" heater hose and sliced down one side to make it like a split loom to cover the lines for protection from damage. There were a lot of 3"-6" fuel hose splices on the nylon lines, some attached with worm gear hose clamps, some with zip ties, and one that was only clamped on one end. Actually I do have one picture of that. This is the fuel supply line. I don't know if that chunk of hard line is factory (I'm guessing not) but I had to use my tubing cutter on the end to clean it up since it looked like it had been cut with a hack saw. I ended up double clamping each end since neither had barbs to hold the fuel line. I've checked the system for leaks and I don't see any so far. Now I'm working on finishing up the windshield lip so that maybe I can get a window in it before winter. also, that braided line on the right side of the picture is the clutch line and it is not even close to correct. I'm not sure what I'm going to do about that yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 I don't really have any pictures for this update, but I have made progress on the truck. All the fuel and return lines have been replaced with standard fuel hose and protected with heater hose for abrasions. Anywhere that didn't have a barbed fitting I double clamped with fuel injection clamps. I ran 3/8" for the supply and 5/16 for the return, then I bought a lot of 3/4" heater hose and sliced down one side to make it like a split loom to cover the lines for protection from damage. There were a lot of 3"-6" fuel hose splices on the nylon lines, some attached with worm gear hose clamps, some with zip ties, and one that was only clamped on one end. Actually I do have one picture of that. This is the fuel supply line. I don't know if that chunk of hard line is factory (I'm guessing not) but I had to use my tubing cutter on the end to clean it up since it looked like it had been cut with a hack saw. I ended up double clamping each end since neither had barbs to hold the fuel line. I've checked the system for leaks and I don't see any so far. Now I'm working on finishing up the windshield lip so that maybe I can get a window in it before winter. also, that braided line on the right side of the picture is the clutch line and it is not even close to correct. I'm not sure what I'm going to do about that yet. Chris - That's good progress. And the protection is a good idea. What's not right about the clutch line? Is it just in the wrong place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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