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Running rich, lifter tick, flush/oil additives?


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The gasket is something that you should be able to do. It just takes normal tools and patience.

The carb might not be. Not only do you need to be able to drill the base of the carb through from one side, which requires a drill press, you then need to press the bushings in and then ream them to ensure the hole is aligned side-to-side.

Instead you should consider buying a new carb.

Well I am going to do the gasket myself, but after discussing the carb with the guy who rebuilt it (Classic Carburetors, Grants Pass) he said that he bench tested my carb and it ran beautifully and that he absolutely would have rebushed it if necessary as that is part of what he looks for, and also told me that all carbs would have a tiny bit of leak present when sprayed. He thinks I was getting a bit of a "story" from the guy who looked at my truck. He suggested I do the gasket (and get the 2 manifold resurfaced) and see how much improvement I see before messing with the carb, but that if it seemed to still be a problem he would re-check the throttle shaft and ream/bush if necessary for free.

I watched a great video on how to do it but I don't even have a bench, much less a bench vise for proper drilling :nabble_smiley_uh:

I am pretty nervous about this, not gonna lie. I hope I can get everything lined up properly, torqued properly, etc.

I am hoping to use the Permatex Aviation grade gasket sealant since I already have it, but I am not sure about temp rating so if anyone has a better suggestion let me know.

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Well I am going to do the gasket myself, but after discussing the carb with the guy who rebuilt it (Classic Carburetors, Grants Pass) he said that he bench tested my carb and it ran beautifully and that he absolutely would have rebushed it if necessary as that is part of what he looks for, and also told me that all carbs would have a tiny bit of leak present when sprayed. He thinks I was getting a bit of a "story" from the guy who looked at my truck. He suggested I do the gasket (and get the 2 manifold resurfaced) and see how much improvement I see before messing with the carb, but that if it seemed to still be a problem he would re-check the throttle shaft and ream/bush if necessary for free.

I watched a great video on how to do it but I don't even have a bench, much less a bench vise for proper drilling :nabble_smiley_uh:

I am pretty nervous about this, not gonna lie. I hope I can get everything lined up properly, torqued properly, etc.

I am hoping to use the Permatex Aviation grade gasket sealant since I already have it, but I am not sure about temp rating so if anyone has a better suggestion let me know.

if the carb rebuilder is willing to review or even redo his work then that is "stepping up". plain and simple. but it is certainly fair for him to ask that other leaks are eliminated first. and he very well may be saving you time and money not to mention the headache. it's just as likely to be a vacuum leak at the head / intake. as to the carb throttle plate shaft it is true that it cannot be perfectly seal and still move freely. all throttles have a tolerable amount of leak by through the plates and the shaft too. that gets "tuned" in and when the throttle is opened air will come through the easier path. the Venturia. I'm not saying that carbs don't wear out. they certainly do. but accurate diagnosing is the most important point here. I'm in Tennessee and diagnosing is the biggest part of what I do. are you anywhere close that i may be able to see it in person?

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if the carb rebuilder is willing to review or even redo his work then that is "stepping up". plain and simple. but it is certainly fair for him to ask that other leaks are eliminated first. and he very well may be saving you time and money not to mention the headache. it's just as likely to be a vacuum leak at the head / intake. as to the carb throttle plate shaft it is true that it cannot be perfectly seal and still move freely. all throttles have a tolerable amount of leak by through the plates and the shaft too. that gets "tuned" in and when the throttle is opened air will come through the easier path. the Venturia. I'm not saying that carbs don't wear out. they certainly do. but accurate diagnosing is the most important point here. I'm in Tennessee and diagnosing is the biggest part of what I do. are you anywhere close that i may be able to see it in person?

I am all the way on the Northern California Coast so that would be great but not an option haha! I have settled on a Remflex single gasket with no sealant which is thick enough to address any pitting or flange issues, yet compresses well enough around nooks and crannies to not to be *too* thick. Everyone who has used them on the 4.9 that I can find seem to have had great success eliminating difficult leaks, often after multiple tries with other gasket/sealer combo. Ordered today...

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I am all the way on the Northern California Coast so that would be great but not an option haha! I have settled on a Remflex single gasket with no sealant which is thick enough to address any pitting or flange issues, yet compresses well enough around nooks and crannies to not to be *too* thick. Everyone who has used them on the 4.9 that I can find seem to have had great success eliminating difficult leaks, often after multiple tries with other gasket/sealer combo. Ordered today...

You may find you need just a bit of gasket sealer to hold the gasket in place while you install it. Not to seal it.

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You may find you need just a bit of gasket sealer to hold the gasket in place while you install it. Not to seal it.

are you planning to separate the exhaust from the intake while its off? if so, get that gasket also. dont tighten them together more than snug until the intake and exhaust are torqued. no need in anything fighting you from getting the intake fully sealed

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are you planning to separate the exhaust from the intake while its off? if so, get that gasket also. dont tighten them together more than snug until the intake and exhaust are torqued. no need in anything fighting you from getting the intake fully sealed

Mat, everything is now out--I got a lot of it unbuttoned but ended up paying for help from a mobile mechanic as I couldn't get the metal pipe between carb base and manifold loose. Manifolds came out separately from each other. Problem is, I was so focused on getting everything clean and painted while I had a break in the weather today, that I did not even notice that THE INTAKE IS NOT STRAIGHT AT ALL http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/face-with-open-mouth-vomiting-23x23_orig.png I don't know exactly how warped it has to be to not seat properly, not sure if I should go ahead and try?? It seemed like the ports were all touching the tarp, but it just looks...bent outta shape.PXL_20220102_004619888.jpg.fe4d613081aa3a9e7ad88a9bb68c74e9.jpg

I am unsure how to proceed..

 

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Mat, everything is now out--I got a lot of it unbuttoned but ended up paying for help from a mobile mechanic as I couldn't get the metal pipe between carb base and manifold loose. Manifolds came out separately from each other. Problem is, I was so focused on getting everything clean and painted while I had a break in the weather today, that I did not even notice that THE INTAKE IS NOT STRAIGHT AT ALL :nabble_face-with-open-mouth-vomiting-23x23_orig: I don't know exactly how warped it has to be to not seat properly, not sure if I should go ahead and try?? It seemed like the ports were all touching the tarp, but it just looks...bent outta shape.

I am unsure how to proceed..

I'm not a pro, but I would take a straight edge to the ports. It needs to be pretty close to straight where the ports are to go up against the engine.

If you have feeler gauges check to see how much warp there is to it and let us know.

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I'm not a pro, but I would take a straight edge to the ports. It needs to be pretty close to straight where the ports are to go up against the engine.

If you have feeler gauges check to see how much warp there is to it and let us know.

Ok, I will find a straight edge in the morning.

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I'm not a pro, but I would take a straight edge to the ports. It needs to be pretty close to straight where the ports are to go up against the engine.

If you have feeler gauges check to see how much warp there is to it and let us know.

It is one thing to check if the sealing edge is flat to seal but another that the ports on the intake line up to the ports on the head.

If you get the 2 end ports to line up the center ports may be to high.

If you get the center ports to line up the 2 end ports may be to low.

I would take that straight edge and check the head at the top or bottom of the ports or both to see if they are straight across then do the same on the intake.

Think before I even did that I would take the gasket and lay it across the intake and see if it lines up as it may show the ports to high or low too.

Good luck.

Dave ----

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I'm not a pro, but I would take a straight edge to the ports. It needs to be pretty close to straight where the ports are to go up against the engine.

If you have feeler gauges check to see how much warp there is to it and let us know.

It is one thing to check if the sealing edge is flat to seal but another that the ports on the intake line up to the ports on the head.

If you get the 2 end ports to line up the center ports may be to high.

If you get the center ports to line up the 2 end ports may be to low.

I would take that straight edge and check the head at the top or bottom of the ports or both to see if they are straight across then do the same on the intake.

Think before I even did that I would take the gasket and lay it across the intake and see if it lines up as it may show the ports to high or low too.

Good luck.

Dave ----

Good idea to use the gasket, Dave. :nabble_smiley_good:

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