"Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

[grumpin]

Bullwinkle has arrived, shown here hanging out with Mr Peabody. Unlike the Starcraft we're upgrading from, this model of Travel Lite was "designed for" 6.5' beds but has a bump-out in the rear to make room for the bathroom. That means I can still put it in Rocky, but it has to hang off the back with the extra 1.5' dead space at the front of the bed. I'm pretty sure I'd still be in the acceptable COG range but it definitely wouldn't handle as well.

That means Rocky is turning out to be more a fun pleasure truck than a hauler. I may find I have "some kind of camper" installed in the RAM most of the time (fifth wheel or truck camper) and leave Rocky to be for around-town driving, Home Depot runs, drive-in-movie dates, etc.

Nice! I like Bullwinkle!

[taskswap]

How do you have the air bags plumbed? If they are both connected to a single inlet then that can be a problem since when a tall load, like a camper, leans it can push air to the other bag. I've always thought that individual fillers would be better, but I've not really tried it.

Good luck on finding the leaks. But with it clean you should be able to do so pretty easily.

I have them plumbed individually but that's an interesting problem. But in any event while air bags are great for trailers, I've definitely heard that spring-type damper systems are better for truck campers so I've been looking at the Roadmaster setup. It looks decent.

To be honest I've always found the airbags to be a pain - there's no "hard science" around how much to inflate them, just a lot of vague guidance and "you'll have to find what works best for you". With my camper I've had the airbags at 0, 20, 40, and 60psi and it seems like when you fix one problem at one level you introduce a different one. For example, "porpoising" after hitting a bump or dip is definitely reduced at higher levels, but then it introduces a const vibration effect if the road is anything other than glass-smooth. I'm glad I have them for long hauls, but most of the time I don't bother inflating them.

 

[mat in tn]

How do you have the air bags plumbed? If they are both connected to a single inlet then that can be a problem since when a tall load, like a camper, leans it can push air to the other bag. I've always thought that individual fillers would be better, but I've not really tried it.

Good luck on finding the leaks. But with it clean you should be able to do so pretty easily.

I have them plumbed individually but that's an interesting problem. But in any event while air bags are great for trailers, I've definitely heard that spring-type damper systems are better for truck campers so I've been looking at the Roadmaster setup. It looks decent.

To be honest I've always found the airbags to be a pain - there's no "hard science" around how much to inflate them, just a lot of vague guidance and "you'll have to find what works best for you". With my camper I've had the airbags at 0, 20, 40, and 60psi and it seems like when you fix one problem at one level you introduce a different one. For example, "porpoising" after hitting a bump or dip is definitely reduced at higher levels, but then it introduces a const vibration effect if the road is anything other than glass-smooth. I'm glad I have them for long hauls, but most of the time I don't bother inflating them.

I have always been told to keep a minimum in them at least. 20psi for example. I'm interested because I have already decided that I was going to use air shocks on lefty. now I am not considering a camper. so, it's not for that reason but learning from another perspective is valuable also.

I have used load leveler/coil overs before on trucks that stayed loaded with tools and that works fine but I'm thinking I will rarely load lefty and air shocks will fill in when needed so a good compromise. coil overs stand the truck up a bit when unloaded and I don't always want one jacked up.

[taskswap]

I have always been told to keep a minimum in them at least. 20psi for example. I'm interested because I have already decided that I was going to use air shocks on lefty. now I am not considering a camper. so, it's not for that reason but learning from another perspective is valuable also.

I have used load leveler/coil overs before on trucks that stayed loaded with tools and that works fine but I'm thinking I will rarely load lefty and air shocks will fill in when needed so a good compromise. coil overs stand the truck up a bit when unloaded and I don't always want one jacked up.

Yeah you're definitely supposed to do that (keep a minimum in that). I'm not sure how critical it is but the manual does say that. I was only trying them at 0psi to get a baseline.

Found the oil leak, or at least the biggest one. Did the oil change today and drained the blackest crude I've seen out of an engine. Went to pull off the filter and found it was just barely hand tight - I was able to spin it off easily with no wrench. It was absolutely covered with oil with clear signs of where it had been leaking. I think it just wasn't on there tight enough.

Filled a new Wix with oil (man these things are big - it gobbled up most of a quart), lubed the rubber seal, and got it on there somehow without spilling a drop, which is definitely a first for me. Hand tight plus a quarter turn. It's nice when things go your way, even if they're simple things.

The drain plug was in fine shape and is original, but it had a plastic washer on it - is that OEM? I've seen copper and rubber, but never plastic. Anyway I had bought a magnetic replacement that came with a rubber washer so I put that on and torqued it to spec (the "spec" is "until it feels tight with a socket wrench but not enough to strip out"... right?) I know some people tsk-tsk magnetic plugs but I want the diagnostic. I'll be doing another oil change after running it a few hundred miles and I want to know what turns up down there.

Ran the engine a little longer and I don't see any active leaks. The whole thing is so covered in oil it's hard to say I got it all - there's some sign of leaks around the front and rear main seals, but not "active" leaks. So I'm calling this a partial success, at least.

Tomorrow I may be back to painting and also the parking brake. I still have yet to get that thing to hold. I must have done the "drive 10mph in reverse and hit the brakes" thing a dozen or more times by now but it doesn't seem to be taking.

When I first put everything together, I was installing new adjusters so naturally they were at the zero-travel position. I did not adjust them at all, just got them in place. Unless one of you has a better idea, tomorrow I'll maybe jack it up so I can spin the wheels, turn the adjusters until the brakes are just barely dragging, then back then off a click or two? That would be a pain but it's the only thing I can think of. I park this thing on a hill and live in a mountain state. I need 100% reliable parking brakes, it's not negotiable.

[mat in tn]

Yeah you're definitely supposed to do that (keep a minimum in that). I'm not sure how critical it is but the manual does say that. I was only trying them at 0psi to get a baseline.

Found the oil leak, or at least the biggest one. Did the oil change today and drained the blackest crude I've seen out of an engine. Went to pull off the filter and found it was just barely hand tight - I was able to spin it off easily with no wrench. It was absolutely covered with oil with clear signs of where it had been leaking. I think it just wasn't on there tight enough.

Filled a new Wix with oil (man these things are big - it gobbled up most of a quart), lubed the rubber seal, and got it on there somehow without spilling a drop, which is definitely a first for me. Hand tight plus a quarter turn. It's nice when things go your way, even if they're simple things.

The drain plug was in fine shape and is original, but it had a plastic washer on it - is that OEM? I've seen copper and rubber, but never plastic. Anyway I had bought a magnetic replacement that came with a rubber washer so I put that on and torqued it to spec (the "spec" is "until it feels tight with a socket wrench but not enough to strip out"... right?) I know some people tsk-tsk magnetic plugs but I want the diagnostic. I'll be doing another oil change after running it a few hundred miles and I want to know what turns up down there.

Ran the engine a little longer and I don't see any active leaks. The whole thing is so covered in oil it's hard to say I got it all - there's some sign of leaks around the front and rear main seals, but not "active" leaks. So I'm calling this a partial success, at least.

Tomorrow I may be back to painting and also the parking brake. I still have yet to get that thing to hold. I must have done the "drive 10mph in reverse and hit the brakes" thing a dozen or more times by now but it doesn't seem to be taking.

When I first put everything together, I was installing new adjusters so naturally they were at the zero-travel position. I did not adjust them at all, just got them in place. Unless one of you has a better idea, tomorrow I'll maybe jack it up so I can spin the wheels, turn the adjusters until the brakes are just barely dragging, then back then off a click or two? That would be a pain but it's the only thing I can think of. I park this thing on a hill and live in a mountain state. I need 100% reliable parking brakes, it's not negotiable.

at least adjust them up until you hear contact

[Gary Lewis]

Yeah you're definitely supposed to do that (keep a minimum in that). I'm not sure how critical it is but the manual does say that. I was only trying them at 0psi to get a baseline.

Found the oil leak, or at least the biggest one. Did the oil change today and drained the blackest crude I've seen out of an engine. Went to pull off the filter and found it was just barely hand tight - I was able to spin it off easily with no wrench. It was absolutely covered with oil with clear signs of where it had been leaking. I think it just wasn't on there tight enough.

Filled a new Wix with oil (man these things are big - it gobbled up most of a quart), lubed the rubber seal, and got it on there somehow without spilling a drop, which is definitely a first for me. Hand tight plus a quarter turn. It's nice when things go your way, even if they're simple things.

The drain plug was in fine shape and is original, but it had a plastic washer on it - is that OEM? I've seen copper and rubber, but never plastic. Anyway I had bought a magnetic replacement that came with a rubber washer so I put that on and torqued it to spec (the "spec" is "until it feels tight with a socket wrench but not enough to strip out"... right?) I know some people tsk-tsk magnetic plugs but I want the diagnostic. I'll be doing another oil change after running it a few hundred miles and I want to know what turns up down there.

Ran the engine a little longer and I don't see any active leaks. The whole thing is so covered in oil it's hard to say I got it all - there's some sign of leaks around the front and rear main seals, but not "active" leaks. So I'm calling this a partial success, at least.

Tomorrow I may be back to painting and also the parking brake. I still have yet to get that thing to hold. I must have done the "drive 10mph in reverse and hit the brakes" thing a dozen or more times by now but it doesn't seem to be taking.

When I first put everything together, I was installing new adjusters so naturally they were at the zero-travel position. I did not adjust them at all, just got them in place. Unless one of you has a better idea, tomorrow I'll maybe jack it up so I can spin the wheels, turn the adjusters until the brakes are just barely dragging, then back then off a click or two? That would be a pain but it's the only thing I can think of. I park this thing on a hill and live in a mountain state. I need 100% reliable parking brakes, it's not negotiable.

Glad that one leak was so easy to fix.

As for the drain plug, I don't know what was original. But there's no harm in a magnetic plug and if a rubber washer works, wonderful.

On adjusting the brakes, I was taught by my father to tight the adjuster until the wheel won't spin by hand, then bang on the backing plate with a rubber hammer/wooden mallet and adjust again until it won't spin after banging. That centers things. Then back off 10 clicks.

That approach has worked for me for over 50 years, so I keep using it. I'm not saying it is the "correct" approach, but it seems to work.

[taskswap]

Glad that one leak was so easy to fix.

As for the drain plug, I don't know what was original. But there's no harm in a magnetic plug and if a rubber washer works, wonderful.

On adjusting the brakes, I was taught by my father to tight the adjuster until the wheel won't spin by hand, then bang on the backing plate with a rubber hammer/wooden mallet and adjust again until it won't spin after banging. That centers things. Then back off 10 clicks.

That approach has worked for me for over 50 years, so I keep using it. I'm not saying it is the "correct" approach, but it seems to work.

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm still struggling with the parking brake unfortunately. I jacked up the rear end today and hit both adjusters until the brakes were just dragging, then dropped it back down and drove a few inches uphill. Set the parking brake (it's definitely firm, not "loose") and let off the brake and nope, rolled back down to the chocks.

I didn't feel like repeating the process so I threw in the towel for today, but I definitely need to figure this out soon. My wife's itching to take the 5th-wheel out and only Mr. Peabody is up to the task so I need to get the camper moved over to Rocky, even temporarily. So I have a 4-week countdown here :)

I was going to try your method Gary, but I must be a butterfingers because I really struggled to back off the adjusters even one notch when I practiced it. I know you just need to get a screwdriver in there to release the adjuster catch-lever but lying on my side at an awkward angle without great visibility I just didn't seem to have the knack. Before I give that a serious go I think since I did move both adjusters probably 8-10 clicks to get the brakes to drag slightly, I'm probably a lot closer to the "correct" level? So maybe I'll try the 10mph-reverse-brake dance another round just to see if it helps...

[taskswap]

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm still struggling with the parking brake unfortunately. I jacked up the rear end today and hit both adjusters until the brakes were just dragging, then dropped it back down and drove a few inches uphill. Set the parking brake (it's definitely firm, not "loose") and let off the brake and nope, rolled back down to the chocks.

I didn't feel like repeating the process so I threw in the towel for today, but I definitely need to figure this out soon. My wife's itching to take the 5th-wheel out and only Mr. Peabody is up to the task so I need to get the camper moved over to Rocky, even temporarily. So I have a 4-week countdown here :)

I was going to try your method Gary, but I must be a butterfingers because I really struggled to back off the adjusters even one notch when I practiced it. I know you just need to get a screwdriver in there to release the adjuster catch-lever but lying on my side at an awkward angle without great visibility I just didn't seem to have the knack. Before I give that a serious go I think since I did move both adjusters probably 8-10 clicks to get the brakes to drag slightly, I'm probably a lot closer to the "correct" level? So maybe I'll try the 10mph-reverse-brake dance another round just to see if it helps...

Scratch that, I think I have it partially sorted now. I tightened the adjuster a half-inch or so and took it out for a few more runs and now the parking brake will hold on a hill, finally. I have to really stomp on it, down to the last click, but it "works". It's still not quite where I'd feel confident heading down a mountain if the brakes fade out, but it's still a success because now at least I can start it while parked on a hill without an assistant to pull the chocks.

I'm going to keep playing with it some more but now that it's out of the "critical" zone I want to get into a few other things, one of which is the winch. If you've followed this thread you may remember that a month or so ago I picked up the first piece of the puzzle, a generic winch mounting tray that just barely fits between the frame rails and behind the front bumper. To complete the job, I need some angles to "hang" it from the frame rail and I also want to add some steel straps from the middle of the winch tray to points further back on the frame rails so it's more of a pull load than a twisting one.

I'm not a skilled enough welder to make a structural right-angle but that's OK, I found some good 4x6x3/8" angle iron that should work great for that, all I need to do is drill some holes. I AM just about skilled enough to do stuff like boxing-out the end of a channel to keep dust and dirt out or add some gussets... but I haven't welded in about 15 years. When we moved here to Colorado it was a "whatever fits in the trailer comes, everything else stays" type situation and as you can imagine with 2 adults and 5 kids things like clothes and personal items were the priority. I gave my old welder away to a relative.

But tech evolves fast and for not much more than I paid for that Harbor Freight "barely there" welder so long ago, I was able to pick up https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08C9J3PS2. It's a great machine with a ton of options - I can do things like stick and lift-TIG if I ever decide I want to. But for now I'll stick to the flux-core "hot metal glue gun of metal" MIG.

I have tons of "scrap" lying around but it's all weirdo stuff like old hitch receivers and bed frame rails. I knew I needed practice but not just for skill, for dialing in the new welder, too. I wanted to be closer to the grade of steel I'd actually be using so I grabbed one of those $20 "practice kits" that is basically a stack of coupons cut from 11ga mild steel, and ran a few beads. By my third line I was more or less "minimally acceptable" - after grinding I only had a few trouble spots I'd need to fill in with this one:

It'll never win a contest but it passed the hammer-it-apart test so I think I'm ready to do some basic stuff.

[Gary Lewis]

Scratch that, I think I have it partially sorted now. I tightened the adjuster a half-inch or so and took it out for a few more runs and now the parking brake will hold on a hill, finally. I have to really stomp on it, down to the last click, but it "works". It's still not quite where I'd feel confident heading down a mountain if the brakes fade out, but it's still a success because now at least I can start it while parked on a hill without an assistant to pull the chocks.

I'm going to keep playing with it some more but now that it's out of the "critical" zone I want to get into a few other things, one of which is the winch. If you've followed this thread you may remember that a month or so ago I picked up the first piece of the puzzle, a generic winch mounting tray that just barely fits between the frame rails and behind the front bumper. To complete the job, I need some angles to "hang" it from the frame rail and I also want to add some steel straps from the middle of the winch tray to points further back on the frame rails so it's more of a pull load than a twisting one.

I'm not a skilled enough welder to make a structural right-angle but that's OK, I found some good 4x6x3/8" angle iron that should work great for that, all I need to do is drill some holes. I AM just about skilled enough to do stuff like boxing-out the end of a channel to keep dust and dirt out or add some gussets... but I haven't welded in about 15 years. When we moved here to Colorado it was a "whatever fits in the trailer comes, everything else stays" type situation and as you can imagine with 2 adults and 5 kids things like clothes and personal items were the priority. I gave my old welder away to a relative.

But tech evolves fast and for not much more than I paid for that Harbor Freight "barely there" welder so long ago, I was able to pick up https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08C9J3PS2. It's a great machine with a ton of options - I can do things like stick and lift-TIG if I ever decide I want to. But for now I'll stick to the flux-core "hot metal glue gun of metal" MIG.

I have tons of "scrap" lying around but it's all weirdo stuff like old hitch receivers and bed frame rails. I knew I needed practice but not just for skill, for dialing in the new welder, too. I wanted to be closer to the grade of steel I'd actually be using so I grabbed one of those $20 "practice kits" that is basically a stack of coupons cut from 11ga mild steel, and ran a few beads. By my third line I was more or less "minimally acceptable" - after grinding I only had a few trouble spots I'd need to fill in with this one:

It'll never win a contest but it passed the hammer-it-apart test so I think I'm ready to do some basic stuff.

Glad you got the parking brake to work some. But as the shoes wear and everything centers up I think you’ll have to tighten the brakes a bit more. Or, back up and stop several times.

The welding looks good. I’m anxious to see the winch support come together.

[taskswap]

Glad you got the parking brake to work some. But as the shoes wear and everything centers up I think you’ll have to tighten the brakes a bit more. Or, back up and stop several times.

The welding looks good. I’m anxious to see the winch support come together.

I'll work on it more this week, I've just been stalling taking off the front bumper again. Right now I have the truck parked facing the street so I can work on paint-prep more easily on the driver's side. The HOA here is antsy about unregistered vehicles and I don't need the hassle if their goons can't see the plate.

Speaking of paint prep I have the driver's side in primer now. Looks pretty good though this is really just a guide coat. The driver's side was REALLY rough, it looked like a speckled egg it had so many tiny rust spots. I didn't want to take it all down to bare metal but also didn't want to leave any rust so I hit it with a mix of wire brushes and flap discs to get it all. This primer will get mostly sanded back off to help level out the base again.

And obviously also some bondo. I know I'll get lucky to have the rear fender rust area last very long but that's OK. I already have some cab corners in the garage and I'll be getting some fender sections as well, but my welding skills aren't quite "sheet metal" category yet so I just need to get by until then.