taskswap Posted March 2, 2022 Author Share Posted March 2, 2022 Well, while I know you feel this is a setback, in reality you are taking two steps forward and only one back. So it is progress. I don't have a recommendation on a kit of bearings. I had to buy piecemeal as well, but I checked numbers on Rock Auto's site. Didn't buy from them as I got name brand bearings from Amazon for less, more quickly, and with far less hassle on returns. But RA's catalog is excellent. On the lube, I grease axle bearings before installing them. My theory is that the oil will eventually melt the grease, but that there's nothing in the grease that will hurt the diff. So until the oil gets there they are lubed. But you should have had oil up there when you pulled it apart. Have you checked the oil level in the diff? I've never pulled one apart that didn't have oil everywhere. And on the studs, I would certainly go with RH threads. No one is installing LF threads anymore that I'm aware of, and they obviously aren't required or 99% of the left side wheels would be falling off. Thanks for the fast reply, Gary, I couldn't do this project without this forum! I'm definitely going to check the oil in the diff now. I think I found a bearing kit that might work. They're just 2" ID and 2.25" ID roller bearings (Timken SET38 / Tyson 104949 is the outer) apparently but the kit is reasonably priced and includes the seal. (Needs 2 though.) It's here if anybody wants to take the same risk https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0078U8DIQ but I'll report back if this fits of course. One more question. While I'm in here I will be replacing: 1. Brake cylinder 2. All the springs and the adjuster (I got a kit) 3. Wheel studs 4. Shoes 5. Bearings My questions is, if it was you, and "I'd come this far..." what else would you replace? Am I missing anything obvious? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 Thanks for the fast reply, Gary, I couldn't do this project without this forum! I'm definitely going to check the oil in the diff now. I think I found a bearing kit that might work. They're just 2" ID and 2.25" ID roller bearings (Timken SET38 / Tyson 104949 is the outer) apparently but the kit is reasonably priced and includes the seal. (Needs 2 though.) It's here if anybody wants to take the same risk https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0078U8DIQ but I'll report back if this fits of course. One more question. While I'm in here I will be replacing: 1. Brake cylinder 2. All the springs and the adjuster (I got a kit) 3. Wheel studs 4. Shoes 5. Bearings My questions is, if it was you, and "I'd come this far..." what else would you replace? Am I missing anything obvious? I used several "SetX" combo's in the front of both Dad's truck awa Big Blue and was happy. But I don't remember the #'s. I assume your parking brake cables are good? Otherwise I think you have a good list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taskswap Posted March 3, 2022 Author Share Posted March 3, 2022 I used several "SetX" combo's in the front of both Dad's truck awa Big Blue and was happy. But I don't remember the #'s. I assume your parking brake cables are good? Otherwise I think you have a good list. Good point. I don't know if they're bad or good but new ones are $14.95 so I went ahead and ordered a pair. Why not. So on a whim just to see what was up I pulled the passenger side drum. Totally different experience. Got about a cup and a half of (black, but liquid) oil pouring out when I yanked the axle, the drum came off very easily and the bearings look good. I'll still replace them (I bought a full set for both sides) but now it raises a new question. If this oil mainly comes from the diff (that's my understanding - it gets slung out as you drive)... What would make my left side bone dry and my right well lubed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 Good point. I don't know if they're bad or good but new ones are $14.95 so I went ahead and ordered a pair. Why not. So on a whim just to see what was up I pulled the passenger side drum. Totally different experience. Got about a cup and a half of (black, but liquid) oil pouring out when I yanked the axle, the drum came off very easily and the bearings look good. I'll still replace them (I bought a full set for both sides) but now it raises a new question. If this oil mainly comes from the diff (that's my understanding - it gets slung out as you drive)... What would make my left side bone dry and my right well lubed? With the axles out of the tube check for "stuff" in the tube blocking the oil. For some reason that one side wasn't getting lubed. But if the level was low it might only sling it in one direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taskswap Posted March 3, 2022 Author Share Posted March 3, 2022 Good point. I don't know if they're bad or good but new ones are $14.95 so I went ahead and ordered a pair. Why not. So on a whim just to see what was up I pulled the passenger side drum. Totally different experience. Got about a cup and a half of (black, but liquid) oil pouring out when I yanked the axle, the drum came off very easily and the bearings look good. I'll still replace them (I bought a full set for both sides) but now it raises a new question. If this oil mainly comes from the diff (that's my understanding - it gets slung out as you drive)... What would make my left side bone dry and my right well lubed? Want to see the most messed-up wheel stud? Personally, I believe anybody that wants to get "decades" rather than "years" out of their car or truck should own a thread chaser in the pitch of their wheel studs. Every tire rotation, run that bad boy down there and it'll save you a LOT of grief 30 years later! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 Want to see the most messed-up wheel stud? Personally, I believe anybody that wants to get "decades" rather than "years" out of their car or truck should own a thread chaser in the pitch of their wheel studs. Every tire rotation, run that bad boy down there and it'll save you a LOT of grief 30 years later! Wow! That's bad! And I agree that using a thread-chaser would help. But I've not seen that kind of problems on studs around here. It looks to me like that lug nut was loose and let the wheel work against the stud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taskswap Posted March 3, 2022 Author Share Posted March 3, 2022 Wow! That's bad! And I agree that using a thread-chaser would help. But I've not seen that kind of problems on studs around here. It looks to me like that lug nut was loose and let the wheel work against the stud. You'd be right - if you didn't know I'd already run a tap down this stud. What happened to this one was it was just SO rusted that there was no hope the tap could follow the original "lead" of the thread. Since it's a cutting tool it just tried its best and cut new grooves. As I ran it down, it wandered off center to the right, so you can see from the photo where on the right side it was cutting the tips off the threads, and on the left it was making its own new threads. I knew this was a risk and I did it anyway because I figured stud-replacement was in my future and wanted the data point for future reference. I'm sharing it here so other folks might learn - not so much from my "mistakes" (I did actually expect this to happen) but at least from my misfortunes? "One for all..." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 You'd be right - if you didn't know I'd already run a tap down this stud. What happened to this one was it was just SO rusted that there was no hope the tap could follow the original "lead" of the thread. Since it's a cutting tool it just tried its best and cut new grooves. As I ran it down, it wandered off center to the right, so you can see from the photo where on the right side it was cutting the tips off the threads, and on the left it was making its own new threads. I knew this was a risk and I did it anyway because I figured stud-replacement was in my future and wanted the data point for future reference. I'm sharing it here so other folks might learn - not so much from my "mistakes" (I did actually expect this to happen) but at least from my misfortunes? "One for all..." Well, that makes sense. So that does strongly support cleaning the threads frequently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taskswap Posted March 3, 2022 Author Share Posted March 3, 2022 Well, that makes sense. So that does strongly support cleaning the threads frequently. It also makes me a fan of closed-end wheel nuts. I know some people say they can trap moisture in but I've never seen damage like this except with open-end ones. Changing topics, I'm brainstorming power steering. Beyond the steering box would you guys replace the steering shaft as well? I've seen good comments online about this one https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-000985 and was wondering if it's worth doing all at once... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 It also makes me a fan of closed-end wheel nuts. I know some people say they can trap moisture in but I've never seen damage like this except with open-end ones. Changing topics, I'm brainstorming power steering. Beyond the steering box would you guys replace the steering shaft as well? I've seen good comments online about this one https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-000985 and was wondering if it's worth doing all at once... All I run are closed-end nuts, so that might explain why I’ve not seen that problem. And I do like that steering shaft, although it is very expensive. Jim/ArdWrknTrk posted on here how he made one like that for something like $35. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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