"Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

[taskswap]

Did you get a windshield that let's you see the VIN? The later trucks, which take the same windshield, have the VIN moved a bit, and people like to stock only the later glass. But then you can't read the VIN.

I suspect that is technically illegal for them to do, but it sure causes problems later if/when you sell the truck. Especially if you sell it out of state.

Yeah that's a good thought (VIN). It does seem to. It has a notch in the black edge band about where the VIN is.

All Rustoleum'd up. Not exactly showroom quality - I didn't quite scrape all the old carpet adhesive off so it's a little shaggy in spots (but not spots where there's rust.) That's OK, nobody is ever going to see this.

I'm in a mad rush to get a few painting tasks done. It's going to be almost 70 here tomorrow as well, then next week winter returns. We occasionally get some very warm days here in CO even in the winter, but I can't count on it for awhile. With this task out of the way, I can spend the next few weeks messing around with smaller items in my garage, then start reassembling the interior.

Priority wise my next task is to understand the door lock and window mechanisms. My windows are very hard to get up and down and my doors auto-lock when they're closed if the windows are up. Since I don't have a door key it's urgent that I get that sorted out before we get any weather, otherwise I'll have to tarp it.

[Gary Lewis]

Yeah that's a good thought (VIN). It does seem to. It has a notch in the black edge band about where the VIN is.

All Rustoleum'd up. Not exactly showroom quality - I didn't quite scrape all the old carpet adhesive off so it's a little shaggy in spots (but not spots where there's rust.) That's OK, nobody is ever going to see this.

I'm in a mad rush to get a few painting tasks done. It's going to be almost 70 here tomorrow as well, then next week winter returns. We occasionally get some very warm days here in CO even in the winter, but I can't count on it for awhile. With this task out of the way, I can spend the next few weeks messing around with smaller items in my garage, then start reassembling the interior.

Priority wise my next task is to understand the door lock and window mechanisms. My windows are very hard to get up and down and my doors auto-lock when they're closed if the windows are up. Since I don't have a door key it's urgent that I get that sorted out before we get any weather, otherwise I'll have to tarp it.

Glad you got the right windshield. That can be a major problem. BTDT.

Yes, it was WARM today here as well. But that is going to change, soon. Sunday night, they say.

The paint looks good. And a little bit of fuss won't hurt at all.

The door lock mechanism runs very close to the window, and if it is bent it can easily be moved by the window. I had a problem on Big Blue where the PS door would lock correctly with the window down, but not up. So I pulled the panel and watched as the window moved. Sure enough, I could see the problem.

Then I pulled the linkage from both sides and laid them side by side and it was obvious that the PS linkage was bent differently than the DS linkage. So I re-bent it and it worked!

[taskswap]

Glad you got the right windshield. That can be a major problem. BTDT.

Yes, it was WARM today here as well. But that is going to change, soon. Sunday night, they say.

The paint looks good. And a little bit of fuss won't hurt at all.

The door lock mechanism runs very close to the window, and if it is bent it can easily be moved by the window. I had a problem on Big Blue where the PS door would lock correctly with the window down, but not up. So I pulled the panel and watched as the window moved. Sure enough, I could see the problem.

Then I pulled the linkage from both sides and laid them side by side and it was obvious that the PS linkage was bent differently than the DS linkage. So I re-bent it and it worked!

So now I'm stressed about this VIN :) There is a notch to view the VIN... and the VIN plate is near it, but it's offset a bit. It's just riveted on there and there could not be a better time to move it. Think it's worth it?

[Gary Lewis]

So now I'm stressed about this VIN :) There is a notch to view the VIN... and the VIN plate is near it, but it's offset a bit. It's just riveted on there and there could not be a better time to move it. Think it's worth it?

Can you read it? Best not to move it if you don't have to. Those hex-headed rivets aren't readily available, and round ones might raise a flag. But, if you saved the rivet heads and glued them awa the VIN label on...

[mat in tn]

Can you read it? Best not to move it if you don't have to. Those hex-headed rivets aren't readily available, and round ones might raise a flag. But, if you saved the rivet heads and glued them awa the VIN label on...

i will definitely add to the windshield comment. you mentioned a notch in the black band. if it came with a black band, IT IS THE WRONG WINDSHIELD!! yes, the vin tag is 2-1/2'' further out on the later trucks than the bullnose. the correct one will not have a black heat bonded border and the installer must prime the glass before using the modern urethane adhesive. even though it has a window notch it is not lined up and comes up on the glass higher to hide seams around the leading edge of the dash cap. the dash pad and certainly any cover you may choose to install will make reading the vin tag difficult to say the least. kind of like looking through two doors offset in a hallway with the reflection of the angled glass. i know this may seem oddly thorough and specific but let's just say ''i have bought my share of bullnose windshields. haha

[taskswap]

i will definitely add to the windshield comment. you mentioned a notch in the black band. if it came with a black band, IT IS THE WRONG WINDSHIELD!! yes, the vin tag is 2-1/2'' further out on the later trucks than the bullnose. the correct one will not have a black heat bonded border and the installer must prime the glass before using the modern urethane adhesive. even though it has a window notch it is not lined up and comes up on the glass higher to hide seams around the leading edge of the dash cap. the dash pad and certainly any cover you may choose to install will make reading the vin tag difficult to say the least. kind of like looking through two doors offset in a hallway with the reflection of the angled glass. i know this may seem oddly thorough and specific but let's just say ''i have bought my share of bullnose windshields. haha

Speaking of dash pads, I got the thing everybody else seems to get: the Coverlay. It looks pretty nice, I thin it will work fine. But like most others, my dash pad underneath is crumbling. I think I'm lucky in that mine is still moderately intact. But I was wondering if any of you have done anything to stabilize it before covering it. I have a ton of fiberglass left over from other projects and it's tempting to throw a ply of BID on there first just to encapsulate it. Or is it a waste of time?

[Pete Whitstone]

Speaking of dash pads, I got the thing everybody else seems to get: the Coverlay. It looks pretty nice, I thin it will work fine. But like most others, my dash pad underneath is crumbling. I think I'm lucky in that mine is still moderately intact. But I was wondering if any of you have done anything to stabilize it before covering it. I have a ton of fiberglass left over from other projects and it's tempting to throw a ply of BID on there first just to encapsulate it. Or is it a waste of time?

Depends... mine looked similar to yours but it was mostly cosmetic. The underlying plastic was still in good shape. Have you removed the dash pad from the truck, so you can see how it holds its shape without the support of the metal dash?

Mine was fine in that regard, so the outer covering and foam were stripped, and the radio hole was patched, then it was re-covered, and that was all it needed.

If it's all floppy or broken when it comes out of the truck, then fiberglass would be my fix of choice.

[Gary Lewis]

Speaking of dash pads, I got the thing everybody else seems to get: the Coverlay. It looks pretty nice, I thin it will work fine. But like most others, my dash pad underneath is crumbling. I think I'm lucky in that mine is still moderately intact. But I was wondering if any of you have done anything to stabilize it before covering it. I have a ton of fiberglass left over from other projects and it's tempting to throw a ply of BID on there first just to encapsulate it. Or is it a waste of time?

I agree with Pete, but I'll bet it'll just be surface cracking and not structural. And what I've done in that case is to sand the cracks smooth.

Also, I don't install the Coverlay cover with the dash pad on the truck. Instead I have it on the bench and us all sorts of clamps and rubber bands to hold the cover to the pad while the glue is setting up.

Speaking of which, I've not had good luck with the RTV they send. I'm thinking that the next time I'll use spray contact cement.

[FuzzFace2]

I agree with Pete, but I'll bet it'll just be surface cracking and not structural. And what I've done in that case is to sand the cracks smooth.

Also, I don't install the Coverlay cover with the dash pad on the truck. Instead I have it on the bench and us all sorts of clamps and rubber bands to hold the cover to the pad while the glue is setting up.

Speaking of which, I've not had good luck with the RTV they send. I'm thinking that the next time I'll use spray contact cement.

I had 2 pads to work with and took the worst to try and fix, like 3 times as nothing I tried would fill the cracks and sand smooth the way I liked.

I picked up a cover and on test fits thought it best to remove some of the edging that would show.

That was a BIG mistake as the cover did not fit or look right.

I have bought the fiber glass rosin and fleece blanket to recover it like on YouTube just have not gotten to it yet.

I ended up putting the cover on the other pad and like Gary said did in off the truck and used clamps & heavy things to push it into place.

I am pretty sure I used the RTV that came with it and so far no issues.

I did wash the old pad many times before I installed the cover.

I then used SEM paint and painted it to match the rest of the panels inside the truck.

I think it came out pretty good.

Dave ----

[mat in tn]

Speaking of dash pads, I got the thing everybody else seems to get: the Coverlay. It looks pretty nice, I thin it will work fine. But like most others, my dash pad underneath is crumbling. I think I'm lucky in that mine is still moderately intact. But I was wondering if any of you have done anything to stabilize it before covering it. I have a ton of fiberglass left over from other projects and it's tempting to throw a ply of BID on there first just to encapsulate it. Or is it a waste of time?

the simplest answer is to trim off anything that is sticking up and or loose. clean thoroughly and use the glue they send. I'm even tempted to buy another tube and over glue it, but I have not done it. i have used three or four of them though and usually have been happy. one more tip i will give is to lay in on dry and look around all of the openings and through the speaker grill. note any of the pad underneath that you can see and may want to trim. also, once it fits well back drill for the four screws holding the pad at the defrost ports. i have seen people glue a cover on in place and who ever needs to remove it later is screwed trying to figure out what's still holding it. four hidden screws! that's what!