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"Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration


taskswap

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it's sad to say but good parts seem to be getting harder to acquire. if it aint broke don't fix it is ringing true more than ever. fewer good replacement parts but decent re-engineered parts if you are willing to restomod.

I couldn't have said it better myself.

Minor progress this weekend. I replaced my right front shock and spring. It took longer than I expected but mostly because I had Dad's helper. :nabble_smiley_happy: My youngest daughter is the only child out of 5 even remotely interested in going out in the snow to "help" Dad work on the truck, but she makes up for it by being intensely interested. I have no doubt she'll do a project like this herself one day. Everything takes longer when you have to explain every little thing you're doing, but I wouldn't change it for the world.

I had a couple minor mishaps. I got thrown for a loop by the labeling on the shock. It comes out fairly clearly in the photo, but in my hands it clearly looked like it said "Do Not Install This End Down" the only way "down" could be! I also lost the top nut for the right front shock and had to borrow the one from the left, because apparently this Rancho shock has a different thread than the old stock shock used and I didn't have a matching nut on hand.

And finally I discovered that my lower shock mount bracket holes are slightly elongated. I went ahead and reassembled it as is because LMC is apparently back-ordered for this part and the ones on ebay are super expensive, like $65 apiece. It's only about 1/16" out of round - enough to care about but maybe not enough to throw out the part. It's tempting to have somebody weld it. It's even more tempting to use this as an excuse to get a welder again. :nabble_smiley_whistling: I'm no master, but I can do some basic work and this is so close I could probably fill it just with 1-2 tacks... What to do...

I also got the radiator reinstalled. Sort of. I got that Champion the rest of you recommended and it's a real piece of work. With the cost of aluminum these days it's amazing how cheap it was. But it doesn't seem to sit quite right. I replaced the lower isolators since mine were shot, so I don't think it's that, and I'm pretty sure I reinstalled the top brackets properly. But it tilts toward the engine - there's about a 1/4" gap between the top of the radiator and the front rail of the engine compartment. Is this slight tilt just something normal that I didn't notice when I removed the old one? Or did I screw something up?

I'm so glad your daughter is helping! That is wonderful! (I'm hoping one of my grandkids will want to help some day.)

On the welder, I don't know how I'd do w/o one. Honestly, I think you will need it as you go forward with the project.

As for the radiator, mine tilts back a bit. I think they all do.

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I'm so glad your daughter is helping! That is wonderful! (I'm hoping one of my grandkids will want to help some day.)

On the welder, I don't know how I'd do w/o one. Honestly, I think you will need it as you go forward with the project.

As for the radiator, mine tilts back a bit. I think they all do.

Got interrupted, but made tiny progress yesterday - I got a rear shock installed. I'm glad I did this. The front shocks were clearly replaced at some point and while there was some wear/dry rot in the bushings, they still acted like shocks. The rear ones were totally shot. I could very easily compress them fully and they didn't expand again. For giggles I made this video. If you've ever seen a bad shock this video is basically valueless but here it is anyway: :nabble_smiley_cool:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/u27vq1MakmqP3cY4A

I was really hoping to take off the drums to inspect the shoes and adjust the parking brake but I didn't have time to mess around with the axle and bearings which is part of the process on mine. And I still don't have time today, so time for another project. If possible I'm going to drop the rear gas tank and replace it. I bought LMC's version of the new tank which some folks have said fits fine and others have apparently had issues with. We'll see how it goes...

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Got interrupted, but made tiny progress yesterday - I got a rear shock installed. I'm glad I did this. The front shocks were clearly replaced at some point and while there was some wear/dry rot in the bushings, they still acted like shocks. The rear ones were totally shot. I could very easily compress them fully and they didn't expand again. For giggles I made this video. If you've ever seen a bad shock this video is basically valueless but here it is anyway: :nabble_smiley_cool:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/u27vq1MakmqP3cY4A

I was really hoping to take off the drums to inspect the shoes and adjust the parking brake but I didn't have time to mess around with the axle and bearings which is part of the process on mine. And I still don't have time today, so time for another project. If possible I'm going to drop the rear gas tank and replace it. I bought LMC's version of the new tank which some folks have said fits fine and others have apparently had issues with. We'll see how it goes...

I replaced shock on a Suburban we had years ago and set them against the wall to get rid of later.

One went down by itself! I guess it was time! :nabble_smiley_teeth:

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Got interrupted, but made tiny progress yesterday - I got a rear shock installed. I'm glad I did this. The front shocks were clearly replaced at some point and while there was some wear/dry rot in the bushings, they still acted like shocks. The rear ones were totally shot. I could very easily compress them fully and they didn't expand again. For giggles I made this video. If you've ever seen a bad shock this video is basically valueless but here it is anyway: :nabble_smiley_cool:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/u27vq1MakmqP3cY4A

I was really hoping to take off the drums to inspect the shoes and adjust the parking brake but I didn't have time to mess around with the axle and bearings which is part of the process on mine. And I still don't have time today, so time for another project. If possible I'm going to drop the rear gas tank and replace it. I bought LMC's version of the new tank which some folks have said fits fine and others have apparently had issues with. We'll see how it goes...

Replacing rear shocks on mine helped how the front of the truck behaved as it stopped bouncing around. Especially with no load, the back would bounce and change the direction of the truck.

Keep on going. You're getting there. Glad to see it.

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Replacing rear shocks on mine helped how the front of the truck behaved as it stopped bouncing around. Especially with no load, the back would bounce and change the direction of the truck.

Keep on going. You're getting there. Glad to see it.

How to fill a radiator in just 20 easy steps:

1. Finish attaching fan shroud after dragging feet for a week for no apparent reason.

2. Attach pressure/leak tester.

3. Trace massive leak to a crack in the tester itself. Remove tester. It'll be fine.

4. Examine and admire gorgeous stainless coolant hose kit from eBay.

5. Set kit aside and install original hoses. It's faster and they'll be fine.

6. Attach "Spill proof radiator funnel".

7. Add 2 gallons of coolant (half full).

8. Let sit 3 minutes while you get the mail. Observe no leaks.

9. Text friend "no leaks after 30 minutes" because that's how long it felt.

10. Add another gallon. Observe funnel now 1/3 full and holding steady despite you knowing you have almost a gallon to go.

11. Start engine.

12. Observe no leaks, funnel bubbling away. Top off with another pint and wonder how another whole gallon is ever going to get in there.

13. Take quick video of funnel bubbling.

14. Text video to a friend.

15. Hit send.

16. Observe water level rising VERY rapidly in funnel (about 2 seconds).

17. Observe as added weight causes funnel to fall off radiator, spilling coolant everywhere.

18. Admire steam cloud as radiator begins to boil over.

19. Shut off engine.

20. Post "Happy Tuesday, everyone" to forum where surely you aren't the only person who has done this, and grab a beer. Job well done.

 

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How to fill a radiator in just 20 easy steps:

1. Finish attaching fan shroud after dragging feet for a week for no apparent reason.

2. Attach pressure/leak tester.

3. Trace massive leak to a crack in the tester itself. Remove tester. It'll be fine.

4. Examine and admire gorgeous stainless coolant hose kit from eBay.

5. Set kit aside and install original hoses. It's faster and they'll be fine.

6. Attach "Spill proof radiator funnel".

7. Add 2 gallons of coolant (half full).

8. Let sit 3 minutes while you get the mail. Observe no leaks.

9. Text friend "no leaks after 30 minutes" because that's how long it felt.

10. Add another gallon. Observe funnel now 1/3 full and holding steady despite you knowing you have almost a gallon to go.

11. Start engine.

12. Observe no leaks, funnel bubbling away. Top off with another pint and wonder how another whole gallon is ever going to get in there.

13. Take quick video of funnel bubbling.

14. Text video to a friend.

15. Hit send.

16. Observe water level rising VERY rapidly in funnel (about 2 seconds).

17. Observe as added weight causes funnel to fall off radiator, spilling coolant everywhere.

18. Admire steam cloud as radiator begins to boil over.

19. Shut off engine.

20. Post "Happy Tuesday, everyone" to forum where surely you aren't the only person who has done this, and grab a beer. Job well done.

Not the only person, as I've done it. :nabble_smiley_blush:

But, your title is a bit misleading as you didn't get it full. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Over time you'll find you have to keep adding coolant. (As will I 'cause I didn't get as much back in as I drained out. :nabble_smiley_cry:) It is really hard to get these systems full. Bill's trick is to pull a heater hose off at the heater core as it is the high spot in the system.

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Not the only person, as I've done it. :nabble_smiley_blush:

But, your title is a bit misleading as you didn't get it full. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Over time you'll find you have to keep adding coolant. (As will I 'cause I didn't get as much back in as I drained out. :nabble_smiley_cry:) It is really hard to get these systems full. Bill's trick is to pull a heater hose off at the heater core as it is the high spot in the system.

That's a good thought. I was wondering, actually. Bleed ports aren't that expensive. Anybody ever tried something like this in their system?

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-coolant-bleeder-port-heater-hose-p-11190.html

 

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That's a good thought. I was wondering, actually. Bleed ports aren't that expensive. Anybody ever tried something like this in their system?

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-coolant-bleeder-port-heater-hose-p-11190.html

I like that, but it is kind of pricey. I've used this flush kit for that in the past: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-47018-Hose-Flush/dp/B000COCTR6

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I like that, but it is kind of pricey. I've used this flush kit for that in the past: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-47018-Hose-Flush/dp/B000COCTR6

I have definitely done that. Seems this Ford truck likes to do that to me.

I wouldn’t use a bleed port because it’s another place to leak.

I’ve filled the radiator to close to the neck then run it, just fill enough to keep it about there.

Then I drive it a bit, let it cool check it, then drive again maybe 1 or 2 more times.

Then a long drive. I think the best way to bleed coolant systems is to drive it.

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I have definitely done that. Seems this Ford truck likes to do that to me.

I wouldn’t use a bleed port because it’s another place to leak.

I’ve filled the radiator to close to the neck then run it, just fill enough to keep it about there.

Then I drive it a bit, let it cool check it, then drive again maybe 1 or 2 more times.

Then a long drive. I think the best way to bleed coolant systems is to drive it.

Threw another gallon of coolant in the radiator today which just about filled it. No telling how much is in there now but I ran it for 15 minutes and it stayed in the "low" section of the normal temp range, which is what I'd expect for a 50 degree day. So I'm sure I have SOME air to bleed but I have a working cooling system, at least.

Do you guys run an inch or two of coolant in the overflow tank or leave it empty? Not sure what the standard procedure is here. I have an aftermarket wiper/overflow tank, the one where the tube comes in the bottom port now, not a tube just hanging over the top edge, if that changes anything.

More important, I need some advice. Even bad or completely wrong advice. :nabble_smiley_happy: While the engine was running I decided to explore my high idle a little bit more. Again, I have the info now on adjusting this Holley Street Warrior carb but I'm reluctant to do that yet because I feel like this is a new issue, something I may even have caused myself. I don't remember it doing this when I bought it (idling around 2000rpm no matter how warmed up it is) and the engine was recently rebuilt (by the same shop that installed the carb) - I can't imagine they had something so basic adjusted so wrong from the get-go. So I'm looking at every other possible cause first.

I took a better pic of my throttle cable bracket, under my air cleaner:

press-here.png.d5c1235c595a6e0aeb8e1bbc2b065a11.png

If I take a pair of pliers and push left / counter-clockwise where I've drawn the arrow, the idle comes down. My PCV tube used to impinge on the throttle cable around this area but I fixed that by rotating it a bit so it has about a 1/4" gap - hard to see, but I don't think it's the problem.

I noticed when I do this that there's a mystery screw on a bracket to the left of the throttle cable bracket. You can just see it peeking out to the left of the PCV tube, a vertical red spring. I notice it flexing slightly when I press the bracket left. Not sure what it does or if it could be related.

When my PCV tube WAS impinging on the throttle cable, it was hard for me to rev the engine at all. While trying to, could I have bent something? Everything in this linkage seems pretty stout and I wasn't stomping on the pedal THAT hard, maybe 10lbs of force max. But maybe?

Failing anything obvious I guess my next step is to run the engine a bit with the air cleaner off so I can get a better look at what's going on. Just wondering if any of you had any thoughts, even wild guesses, about "may as well try XYZ". I have nothing to lose...

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