"Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

[rcarlisle]

Had a "good day". Fighting some project fatigue I set aside a few "final items" like the brake controller (it was obstructing the instrument panel reinstallation, despite my most careful placement), getting all the right screws in the right places, etc. I basically just said "good enough" and threw it back together any which way.

But it runs!

Not very well. This immediately unmasked a bunch of other issues I've known about but haven't dealt with while the truck wasn't running. Up next on priorities:

1. Engine never comes off high idle, even when fully at temp. This is an aftermarket Holley Street Warrior carb with an electric choke. I have the installation manual for it but it doesn't have much in the way of troubleshooting details. Time for some Internet sleuthing.

2. A small amount of smoke comes out of the hood after driving it a bit. I panicked at first but I think it's just some of the dampness of my coolant leak cooking off. There wasn't enough to clearly see the color, but it sure didn't smell like hydrocarbon. Anyway, a new radiator should arrive in the next few days so I can put that one to bed.

3. The alignment is all over the place. But I expected that. I'm still torn on whether to do it myself. I want to - but it's going to be pretty nasty out for awhile. It sure would be easier if I could find a reputable shop to handle it.

4. Parking brake doesn't work. After driving an automatic for awhile I kind of mentally tuned out how important this is (I've had the truck chocked for the past 2 months anyway). Sure you can throw it in gear when you park it. But it means you can't get out of the truck without shutting it off!

5. All the other stuff I already had on the list: fix the rear fuel tank (I'm replacing it) and filler neck (it's missing), install the spare tire carrier, install the front winch, finish the rear light/trailer connector wiring, install the brake controller, etc.

But it's closer!

Carb issues can drive you nuts. Been going thru that myself. Learn how the choke setup works for that carb. Then adjust it right. All kinds of Internet goodness for carbs and chokes.

If you haven't, change the shocks, then see if it drives better. I thought I needed alignment, but tires and shocks fixed it. It was bouncing itself all over the place.

[taskswap]

Carb issues can drive you nuts. Been going thru that myself. Learn how the choke setup works for that carb. Then adjust it right. All kinds of Internet goodness for carbs and chokes.

If you haven't, change the shocks, then see if it drives better. I thought I needed alignment, but tires and shocks fixed it. It was bouncing itself all over the place.

From some initial research I wonder if I have a vacuum leak. The thing is, this engine was professionally rebuilt by an engine shop, and the rebuilder was the one that installed the carb. My feeling is that the carb was almost certainly adjusted properly, or at least close to properly, when it was first put in. So before I start messing with adjustments I figured I'd look at "other stuff" first. And my understanding from some docs from Holley is that a vacuum leak can cause this. So I guess I'll start by looking for that first. Probably not a bad thing to do anyway.

But before I get any more run time on the engine, the radiator arrived today. It's cold out today and supposed to snow tomorrow but I might try installing it on Friday. I don't want to run the engine any more with low coolant and there's no point adding more if I'm about to replace the radiator anyway. So I guess that's my next project.

 

[Gary Lewis]

From some initial research I wonder if I have a vacuum leak. The thing is, this engine was professionally rebuilt by an engine shop, and the rebuilder was the one that installed the carb. My feeling is that the carb was almost certainly adjusted properly, or at least close to properly, when it was first put in. So before I start messing with adjustments I figured I'd look at "other stuff" first. And my understanding from some docs from Holley is that a vacuum leak can cause this. So I guess I'll start by looking for that first. Probably not a bad thing to do anyway.

But before I get any more run time on the engine, the radiator arrived today. It's cold out today and supposed to snow tomorrow but I might try installing it on Friday. I don't want to run the engine any more with low coolant and there's no point adding more if I'm about to replace the radiator anyway. So I guess that's my next project.

You can check for vacuum leaks by the "smoke test".

[taskswap]

You can check for vacuum leaks by the "smoke test".

Ha that's a new one on me! I was going to try the propane trick (where you do basically the same with a small propane torch, unlit - if you put it anywhere near a vacuum leak it'll get sucked in and cause the engine to surge a bit, but won't cause any harm).

Pulled my old radiator today. I'm glad I did, it was corroding badly in spots, had an obvious rock (bullet?) hole punched straight through the fins, narrowly missing the tubes, and if it hadn't been leaking at the petcock would sure to have started somewhere else. It looks OEM but I'm fairly sure it's not original because one of the two lower isolators had been replaced with some kind of square generic 3x3 waffle-looking pad, and one upper bolt was incorrect to the vehicle (it was a simple bolt and nut with a pair of washers, rather than Ford's bolt-and-panel-clip setup.)

Fluid came out a bit milky but as far as I can tell by eye, mostly what you'd expect from old coolant in an old radiant. A small cupful looks normal green. It's only in a large bucket that you notice the cloudiness. So my hope is fresh coolant will be all she needs.

I'm all ready to get my new one installed, but I hit a snag. I bought new hoses, thermostat, gaskets, etc... but didn't buy a new water pump. I really want to replace the one that's on there but there's a bewildering array of options available online and I can't figure out why some are $25 and some are $90.

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/water-pump-s--illustrations.html seems to list D6AZ-8501-A as the right pump for my 351M-400 ('81 6.6L V8). But when I find that part on eBay the various vendors who list it say it's not compatible. I'm used to those being "you have to know what you're buying" but when I go to cross-reference it at Jegs or Summit their prices run anywhere from $25 to $190! My only experience with water pumps was Mazda 13B rotaries and there was really only an option or two for that.

Has anybody bought and had a good experience with a specific pump for this V8 engine? Otherwise it's tempting to buy something that seems close, but not actually install it right now. I don't actually know how old my water pump IS. The engine was rebuilt 3-4 years ago and that's a common replacement item in that task so maybe I can skate by awhile on what I have...

[Gary Lewis]

Ha that's a new one on me! I was going to try the propane trick (where you do basically the same with a small propane torch, unlit - if you put it anywhere near a vacuum leak it'll get sucked in and cause the engine to surge a bit, but won't cause any harm).

Pulled my old radiator today. I'm glad I did, it was corroding badly in spots, had an obvious rock (bullet?) hole punched straight through the fins, narrowly missing the tubes, and if it hadn't been leaking at the petcock would sure to have started somewhere else. It looks OEM but I'm fairly sure it's not original because one of the two lower isolators had been replaced with some kind of square generic 3x3 waffle-looking pad, and one upper bolt was incorrect to the vehicle (it was a simple bolt and nut with a pair of washers, rather than Ford's bolt-and-panel-clip setup.)

Fluid came out a bit milky but as far as I can tell by eye, mostly what you'd expect from old coolant in an old radiant. A small cupful looks normal green. It's only in a large bucket that you notice the cloudiness. So my hope is fresh coolant will be all she needs.

I'm all ready to get my new one installed, but I hit a snag. I bought new hoses, thermostat, gaskets, etc... but didn't buy a new water pump. I really want to replace the one that's on there but there's a bewildering array of options available online and I can't figure out why some are $25 and some are $90.

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/water-pump-s--illustrations.html seems to list D6AZ-8501-A as the right pump for my 351M-400 ('81 6.6L V8). But when I find that part on eBay the various vendors who list it say it's not compatible. I'm used to those being "you have to know what you're buying" but when I go to cross-reference it at Jegs or Summit their prices run anywhere from $25 to $190! My only experience with water pumps was Mazda 13B rotaries and there was really only an option or two for that.

Has anybody bought and had a good experience with a specific pump for this V8 engine? Otherwise it's tempting to buy something that seems close, but not actually install it right now. I don't actually know how old my water pump IS. The engine was rebuilt 3-4 years ago and that's a common replacement item in that task so maybe I can skate by awhile on what I have...

I agree that you've found the right part number. Don't know why others say it won't fit, but they are wrong.

However, I frequently use Rock Auto's catalog to find things, and see if this help. I haven't drilled down to see if any of those also show that part number.

[mat in tn]

I agree that you've found the right part number. Don't know why others say it won't fit, but they are wrong.

However, I frequently use Rock Auto's catalog to find things, and see if this help. I haven't drilled down to see if any of those also show that part number.

are you just covering the bases, or does it need a new pump? you already said the engine was pro rebuilt.

[taskswap]

are you just covering the bases, or does it need a new pump? you already said the engine was pro rebuilt.

I don't know, really. I mean, I know the engine was rebuilt, and I've never heard of a shop doing that and not replacing the W/P. At the same time, it's on my "mental view of the world" for "if you have your cooling system drained you may as well do XYZ" list. Like, I have no reason to believe the thermostat needs to be replaced, but I have the parts so I'm doing those... That said I'm definitely leaning toward NOT doing it. Just coming to terms with that I guess...

[grumpin]

I don't know, really. I mean, I know the engine was rebuilt, and I've never heard of a shop doing that and not replacing the W/P. At the same time, it's on my "mental view of the world" for "if you have your cooling system drained you may as well do XYZ" list. Like, I have no reason to believe the thermostat needs to be replaced, but I have the parts so I'm doing those... That said I'm definitely leaning toward NOT doing it. Just coming to terms with that I guess...

I sometimes struggle with that, replace it while you’re in there, but what if the one you have in there will last 50 years?

When I was doing the head gaskets on our Xterra I decided the water pump was working fine so I didn’t disturb it.

I did replace the knock sensor, that was a mistake, I should have relocated it.

[mat in tn]

I sometimes struggle with that, replace it while you’re in there, but what if the one you have in there will last 50 years?

When I was doing the head gaskets on our Xterra I decided the water pump was working fine so I didn’t disturb it.

I did replace the knock sensor, that was a mistake, I should have relocated it.

it's sad to say but good parts seem to be getting harder to acquire. if it aint broke don't fix it is ringing true more than ever. fewer good replacement parts but decent re-engineered parts if you are willing to restomod.

[taskswap]

it's sad to say but good parts seem to be getting harder to acquire. if it aint broke don't fix it is ringing true more than ever. fewer good replacement parts but decent re-engineered parts if you are willing to restomod.

I couldn't have said it better myself.

Minor progress this weekend. I replaced my right front shock and spring. It took longer than I expected but mostly because I had Dad's helper. My youngest daughter is the only child out of 5 even remotely interested in going out in the snow to "help" Dad work on the truck, but she makes up for it by being intensely interested. I have no doubt she'll do a project like this herself one day. Everything takes longer when you have to explain every little thing you're doing, but I wouldn't change it for the world.

I had a couple minor mishaps. I got thrown for a loop by the labeling on the shock. It comes out fairly clearly in the photo, but in my hands it clearly looked like it said "Do Not Install This End Down" the only way "down" could be! I also lost the top nut for the right front shock and had to borrow the one from the left, because apparently this Rancho shock has a different thread than the old stock shock used and I didn't have a matching nut on hand.

And finally I discovered that my lower shock mount bracket holes are slightly elongated. I went ahead and reassembled it as is because LMC is apparently back-ordered for this part and the ones on ebay are super expensive, like $65 apiece. It's only about 1/16" out of round - enough to care about but maybe not enough to throw out the part. It's tempting to have somebody weld it. It's even more tempting to use this as an excuse to get a welder again. I'm no master, but I can do some basic work and this is so close I could probably fill it just with 1-2 tacks... What to do...

I also got the radiator reinstalled. Sort of. I got that Champion the rest of you recommended and it's a real piece of work. With the cost of aluminum these days it's amazing how cheap it was. But it doesn't seem to sit quite right. I replaced the lower isolators since mine were shot, so I don't think it's that, and I'm pretty sure I reinstalled the top brackets properly. But it tilts toward the engine - there's about a 1/4" gap between the top of the radiator and the front rail of the engine compartment. Is this slight tilt just something normal that I didn't notice when I removed the old one? Or did I screw something up?