"Rocky" - 1981 F250 Restoration

[Gsmblue]

It was a good day / bad day. You take things as they come.

My goal today was to finish all the door wiring to get the panels mounted, and get some behind-dash wiring done so I could start re-mounting the dash. I fell way short of that but did get a lot done.

First decision was the locks. I have the slide locks, and like some others I see on this forum, I've decided to keep them because they're rare and cool. I'm fortunate because I have both the left and right side trim pieces. I'm just missing the black inner slider, rear plate, and metal retainers (for both - mine were held in with zip ties looped around the rear of the body, with actually seemed to work really well).

I know there was a thread here on metal casting these but it seems like that died, and I don't need that trim piece anyway. My plan is to keep the slide locks but not install them. Instead, I'll be installing an aftermarket electric door lock kit, and I did replace the door cylinders so I have door keys now. I'll just live with locking both sides with a key for now, or using the transmitter. I'll watch Fleabay and other sites (Dennis Carpenter) and hope, and if next summer rolls around and I get bored, I may give a go of 3D printing the parts I need myself.

The rest of the wiring proceeded, just not as fast as I'd hoped. I managed to use a step drill bit and extension to widen the door holes the past owner apparently punched in with a screwdriver. I got some rubber wire door loom tubes but they weren't long enough to reach from the door to the factory grommet/hole in the truck body, so I spent time fussing with that. I guess I can call the doors "wired" - I'm not as thrilled with the final setup as I'd like to be, but it's still better than the hash that was there before.

I also added the Weather-Pack plug on the A/C blower motor to match the harness I made up. Weather-Pack fittings are way overkill for an interior plug but I had the tool and components handy so why not. Better than the old setup, which had the ground wire just wrapped around a nearby screw head, bare, and some of the wires just twisted together and taped:

When I got the truck, opening the door didn't turn on the dome light. The bulb was fine so I figured I may as well try replacing the switch. They were pretty cheap at LMC. But they were also the wrong switch. There's a quarter-inch length difference between the old and new one that prevents the door from closing. Not sure what to do about this. I can't just test the switch and leave the old if it's still working, because I'm missing the one on the right side anyway. Maybe another ebay find...

Have you tried texting the continuity of the old door switch with a meter?

[Gary Lewis]

It was a good day / bad day. You take things as they come.

My goal today was to finish all the door wiring to get the panels mounted, and get some behind-dash wiring done so I could start re-mounting the dash. I fell way short of that but did get a lot done.

First decision was the locks. I have the slide locks, and like some others I see on this forum, I've decided to keep them because they're rare and cool. I'm fortunate because I have both the left and right side trim pieces. I'm just missing the black inner slider, rear plate, and metal retainers (for both - mine were held in with zip ties looped around the rear of the body, with actually seemed to work really well).

I know there was a thread here on metal casting these but it seems like that died, and I don't need that trim piece anyway. My plan is to keep the slide locks but not install them. Instead, I'll be installing an aftermarket electric door lock kit, and I did replace the door cylinders so I have door keys now. I'll just live with locking both sides with a key for now, or using the transmitter. I'll watch Fleabay and other sites (Dennis Carpenter) and hope, and if next summer rolls around and I get bored, I may give a go of 3D printing the parts I need myself.

The rest of the wiring proceeded, just not as fast as I'd hoped. I managed to use a step drill bit and extension to widen the door holes the past owner apparently punched in with a screwdriver. I got some rubber wire door loom tubes but they weren't long enough to reach from the door to the factory grommet/hole in the truck body, so I spent time fussing with that. I guess I can call the doors "wired" - I'm not as thrilled with the final setup as I'd like to be, but it's still better than the hash that was there before.

I also added the Weather-Pack plug on the A/C blower motor to match the harness I made up. Weather-Pack fittings are way overkill for an interior plug but I had the tool and components handy so why not. Better than the old setup, which had the ground wire just wrapped around a nearby screw head, bare, and some of the wires just twisted together and taped:

When I got the truck, opening the door didn't turn on the dome light. The bulb was fine so I figured I may as well try replacing the switch. They were pretty cheap at LMC. But they were also the wrong switch. There's a quarter-inch length difference between the old and new one that prevents the door from closing. Not sure what to do about this. I can't just test the switch and leave the old if it's still working, because I'm missing the one on the right side anyway. Maybe another ebay find...

Good job on the interior wiring. Overkill is good.

As for the switches, not all trucks came with them on the passenger's side. It was an option at the time.

Let me see what switches I have - tomorrow.

[taskswap]

Have you tried texting the continuity of the old door switch with a meter?

So I poked around a few other sites and these same switches are sold on Amazon. Reviewers there say they're "self adjusting" and it was a "surprise" that they were. I'll try them tomorrow.

 

[Gary Lewis]

So I poked around a few other sites and these same switches are sold on Amazon. Reviewers there say they're "self adjusting" and it was a "surprise" that they were. I'll try them tomorrow.

Ok, let us know.

[FuzzFace2]

Good job on the interior wiring. Overkill is good.

As for the switches, not all trucks came with them on the passenger's side. It was an option at the time.

I was going to say the same thing on the light switch, not all had them on the right side but the wiring was there IIRC.

Also good job on the re-wiring.

It always takes longer to do the job right

Dave ----

 

[taskswap]

Good job on the interior wiring. Overkill is good.

As for the switches, not all trucks came with them on the passenger's side. It was an option at the time.

I was going to say the same thing on the light switch, not all had them on the right side but the wiring was there IIRC.

Also good job on the re-wiring.

It always takes longer to do the job right

Dave ----

Had a relatively good day today. I only had a few hours of "play" time but I got some important tasks done.

First, I may have mentioned we sprang for one of those wood vanity wheels. The wheel looks OK, nicer than plastic but IMO not worth $190. The install kit was a hot mess of terrible instructions and missing parts. Fortunately I'd accidentally bought one from both LMC and Amazon and mixing and matching between the two, was able to get it done.

I also got a bunch of other small tasks done, but going further in anything is blocked by something else:

1. Reinstalled the fresh air vent trim in the kick area. But I couldn't add the next piece that goes between it and the door sill because it goes over the carpet a bit. The carpet's blocked from being finalized because I'm still waiting on my replacement backup light switch and plug, which is way easier to install from the top and I don't feel like pulling it all open again once I close it up.

2. Run the brake controller wire from the rear bumper along the frame up to the engine bay. I didn't complete the rest of the wiring because I got distracted by the headlight relay I had sitting in the engine bay waiting to finalize.

3. Mounted the headlight relay assembly near the front right headlight. Got it wired and tested it. It works well but I discovered at this point that one of my headlights is much dimmer than the other. The dimmer switch doesn't help it, so I assume one of the two filaments is blown. All the lights in the truck look like they've never been replaced, so I figure I'll replace both - I like to replace bulbs in pairs/sets.

4. Started working on the seatbelt installation, but realized I'll need to pull my seat back out a bit as I forgot to open the holes in the carpet for the center / lap belt connections.

5. Started finalizing the plugs for the radio and door-lock installations but got stalled because there are so many plugs under there I can't identify, I need to pick them apart one by one. I wish the EVTM had the opposite of a "connector list". It's easy enough to identify I have C906 in my hand by the diagrams of connector locations. But then it doesn't tell you what the connector is FOR. It would be super nice if somebody had made a "list of all wire colors" like "LG /Y is always hot for radio, and power to xyz doohicky" or "a 3-way blade connector that looks like this is the heater blower motor control."

I'm sorting them out one by one and labeling them, it's just a very tedious process....

[Gary Lewis]

Had a relatively good day today. I only had a few hours of "play" time but I got some important tasks done.

First, I may have mentioned we sprang for one of those wood vanity wheels. The wheel looks OK, nicer than plastic but IMO not worth $190. The install kit was a hot mess of terrible instructions and missing parts. Fortunately I'd accidentally bought one from both LMC and Amazon and mixing and matching between the two, was able to get it done.

I also got a bunch of other small tasks done, but going further in anything is blocked by something else:

1. Reinstalled the fresh air vent trim in the kick area. But I couldn't add the next piece that goes between it and the door sill because it goes over the carpet a bit. The carpet's blocked from being finalized because I'm still waiting on my replacement backup light switch and plug, which is way easier to install from the top and I don't feel like pulling it all open again once I close it up.

2. Run the brake controller wire from the rear bumper along the frame up to the engine bay. I didn't complete the rest of the wiring because I got distracted by the headlight relay I had sitting in the engine bay waiting to finalize.

3. Mounted the headlight relay assembly near the front right headlight. Got it wired and tested it. It works well but I discovered at this point that one of my headlights is much dimmer than the other. The dimmer switch doesn't help it, so I assume one of the two filaments is blown. All the lights in the truck look like they've never been replaced, so I figure I'll replace both - I like to replace bulbs in pairs/sets.

4. Started working on the seatbelt installation, but realized I'll need to pull my seat back out a bit as I forgot to open the holes in the carpet for the center / lap belt connections.

5. Started finalizing the plugs for the radio and door-lock installations but got stalled because there are so many plugs under there I can't identify, I need to pick them apart one by one. I wish the EVTM had the opposite of a "connector list". It's easy enough to identify I have C906 in my hand by the diagrams of connector locations. But then it doesn't tell you what the connector is FOR. It would be super nice if somebody had made a "list of all wire colors" like "LG /Y is always hot for radio, and power to xyz doohicky" or "a 3-way blade connector that looks like this is the heater blower motor control."

I'm sorting them out one by one and labeling them, it's just a very tedious process....

Well, there sorta is such a list. Go to Documentation/Electrical/Standard Wire & Color Code Charts. Ford was pretty consistent with their color code. You can download that pdf and search it on your own for specific colors.

And, there is another way to search for electrical things. Shoot me an email and I'll explain. And the email system on here plays like it doesn't send the email, but usually does. Just copy your self on the email to know if it goes.

As for the steering wheel, those are cool but I really like the speed control and those don't have the switches for that. But they are pretty.

Headlights - have you thought about upgrading? Have you read the Lighting Upgrades thread, and especially this post? I intend to go with the Koitos and the +120 bulbs Daniel recommended. But I've not done that yet as I'm knee-deep in the mirror camera work.

Speaking of which, as an electrical guru I'd LOVE to have your input on my plan as outlined here.

[taskswap]

Well, there sorta is such a list. Go to Documentation/Electrical/Standard Wire & Color Code Charts. Ford was pretty consistent with their color code. You can download that pdf and search it on your own for specific colors.

Wow thanks for pointing that out. I've been all up and down the documentation but must have missed that one at some point. Very helpful.

I'll ping you directly if there's anything I can't sort out.

Headlights - have you thought about upgrading? Have you read the Lighting Upgrades thread, and especially this post? I intend to go with the Koitos and the +120 bulbs Daniel recommended. But I've not done that yet as I'm knee-deep in the mirror camera work.

I have thought about it, but held off for now only because I've bitten off about as much as I could chew here and really need to start getting the truck re-assembled so I can shift my focus to the camper. The camper shell we got is in really rough shape, I need to basically gut it, and probably tear off all the exterior siding because there's some structural work to repair as well and that's the only way to get to it. Realistically I figure it'll be a multi-month project, so I'm starting to try to "close" cans of worms on the truck before I open new ones!

I really hope your mirror install goes well. I'm sorry I can't offer more insight, it's just that every time I read your thread you're at the "yep, I'd have gotten stuck there too, and probably be trying the thing you're trying next!" I've spent a lot of time with camera systems in other trucks and campers and they're all so different, I feel like it always ends up being "find the video out line, hook it up, and screw around with the rest until it kinda works the way you wanted."

[taskswap]

Well, there sorta is such a list. Go to Documentation/Electrical/Standard Wire & Color Code Charts. Ford was pretty consistent with their color code. You can download that pdf and search it on your own for specific colors.

Wow thanks for pointing that out. I've been all up and down the documentation but must have missed that one at some point. Very helpful.

I'll ping you directly if there's anything I can't sort out.

Headlights - have you thought about upgrading? Have you read the Lighting Upgrades thread, and especially this post? I intend to go with the Koitos and the +120 bulbs Daniel recommended. But I've not done that yet as I'm knee-deep in the mirror camera work.

I have thought about it, but held off for now only because I've bitten off about as much as I could chew here and really need to start getting the truck re-assembled so I can shift my focus to the camper. The camper shell we got is in really rough shape, I need to basically gut it, and probably tear off all the exterior siding because there's some structural work to repair as well and that's the only way to get to it. Realistically I figure it'll be a multi-month project, so I'm starting to try to "close" cans of worms on the truck before I open new ones!

I really hope your mirror install goes well. I'm sorry I can't offer more insight, it's just that every time I read your thread you're at the "yep, I'd have gotten stuck there too, and probably be trying the thing you're trying next!" I've spent a lot of time with camera systems in other trucks and campers and they're all so different, I feel like it always ends up being "find the video out line, hook it up, and screw around with the rest until it kinda works the way you wanted."

Thinking about the winch area more tonight. I did some measurements. I decided it's pretty cheap to at least try to figure out some type of fabricated solution. I don't currently own a welder but I'm comfortable from other projects doing cardboard mockups and taking them to welding shops so I might give this a go.

I want something as close to period as I can get, which is to say, all of this is totally NOT going to be stock, but if I can do a hidden/semi-hidden setup that includes the current chrome bumper, even if I have to cut it up some, I'll be happy. I took it off tonight to measure what I have to work with, and there's actually a ton of room in there.

If I relocate the horn, there's 36-40" between the front frame rails depending on where you measure. That's way more width than I need, and plenty of depth too if I don't mind losing a little "entry" clearance. I'm never going to do any serious 4x4 trailer stuff with this rig (I'm a 4x2 and plan to act like one - the winch is just for insurance in mud season, stuff like that) so ground clearance isn't a huge driver for me. Besides, I gained an inch of clearance against stock just by throwing on my new tires - they're 31" dia, the old ones were 29. I have margin.

On a whim I picked up https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08K7J1SSH which is a 36" winch mounting tray. Looks pretty cheaply designed, but that's OK. I think if I'm lucky, I can add some plates/brackets to tie it into the frame rails on each end, and it's probably not necessary, but tempting to add some 45-degree ties midway along the tray to further back along the frame where I have some unused bolt holes.

If this all works out, I believe I can remount my chrome bumper (probably on 1" bushings to stand it off some and just cut a notch in the middle. I won't put any stress on the bumper itself, I'll keep the winch's fairlead. This will basically just be "trim" around it.

All in all this will add probably 150lbs to the front end, not exactly what I want, but still less than if I stood it off even further on a receiver hitch. Since the only time this will matter I'll have 1500lbs of camper in the bed, I think it'll be fine?

Guess we'll see!

[Gary Lewis]

Thinking about the winch area more tonight. I did some measurements. I decided it's pretty cheap to at least try to figure out some type of fabricated solution. I don't currently own a welder but I'm comfortable from other projects doing cardboard mockups and taking them to welding shops so I might give this a go.

I want something as close to period as I can get, which is to say, all of this is totally NOT going to be stock, but if I can do a hidden/semi-hidden setup that includes the current chrome bumper, even if I have to cut it up some, I'll be happy. I took it off tonight to measure what I have to work with, and there's actually a ton of room in there.

If I relocate the horn, there's 36-40" between the front frame rails depending on where you measure. That's way more width than I need, and plenty of depth too if I don't mind losing a little "entry" clearance. I'm never going to do any serious 4x4 trailer stuff with this rig (I'm a 4x2 and plan to act like one - the winch is just for insurance in mud season, stuff like that) so ground clearance isn't a huge driver for me. Besides, I gained an inch of clearance against stock just by throwing on my new tires - they're 31" dia, the old ones were 29. I have margin.

On a whim I picked up https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08K7J1SSH which is a 36" winch mounting tray. Looks pretty cheaply designed, but that's OK. I think if I'm lucky, I can add some plates/brackets to tie it into the frame rails on each end, and it's probably not necessary, but tempting to add some 45-degree ties midway along the tray to further back along the frame where I have some unused bolt holes.

If this all works out, I believe I can remount my chrome bumper (probably on 1" bushings to stand it off some and just cut a notch in the middle. I won't put any stress on the bumper itself, I'll keep the winch's fairlead. This will basically just be "trim" around it.

All in all this will add probably 150lbs to the front end, not exactly what I want, but still less than if I stood it off even further on a receiver hitch. Since the only time this will matter I'll have 1500lbs of camper in the bed, I think it'll be fine?

Guess we'll see!

I understand biting off as much as one can chew. I seem to always have a mouth full.

But stripping the camper sounds like a big task. Have you thought about spraying the framing with foam insulation after you put the exterior siding on but before you put the interior paneling on? That might give it a bit more strength and even more insulation.

On the winch, I like that tray. And there is plenty of room under there to mount it. But I agree with you, some reinforcement seems appropriate. But you might consider buying a small welder. It would sure be handy to be able to put things in place and at least tack them, if not do all the welding yourself.

Also, I'm thinking someone on here put a winch behind the stock bumper, but I didn't find it in a search I did. Perhaps you can as it might save you a bit of trouble. But it worked out nicely from what I remember. And I think he put the fairlead in the spot for the front tag.

As for chiming in on my project, I understand. But I got word back from the manufacturer that my relay idea will work. So now I'm searching for the right "relay", and if you have any guidance I'd appreciate it, here.