Choke Question, what would you do?

[LARIAT 85]

So other than the tubing being wrapped around the manifold it is run just like the factory.

Bill, I did buy that kit. Dorman makes one and I used the sleve from it. I did not want to have it pull "dirty" air if I used that metal half bucket thing and why I went with the wrapping.

I also checked if the hot air tube is getting heat and it is it just took some time for the heat to make it to the carb choke area.

I think I am going to try and add a few more loops around the manifold to get more heat to see if that helps any.

Did you read my post?

The aftermarket choke stove kit works great on Lucille, and I didn't have to wrap the copper wire around and around the header. The "half bucket" acts as a hot air chamber to solve the problem you are having.

You do not have to pull "dirty" air if you simply drill another hole on the other end of the "half bucket" and route the tube back up to the fresh air port on the carburetor. That will be much simpler, neater, and more effective than the way you are doing it.

 

[FuzzFace2]

So other than the tubing being wrapped around the manifold it is run just like the factory.

Bill, I did buy that kit. Dorman makes one and I used the sleve from it. I did not want to have it pull "dirty" air if I used that metal half bucket thing and why I went with the wrapping.

I also checked if the hot air tube is getting heat and it is it just took some time for the heat to make it to the carb choke area.

I think I am going to try and add a few more loops around the manifold to get more heat to see if that helps any.

Did you read my post?

The aftermarket choke stove kit works great on Lucille, and I didn't have to wrap the copper wire around and around the header. The "half bucket" acts as a hot air chamber to solve the problem you are having.

You do not have to pull "dirty" air if you simply drill another hole on the other end of the "half bucket" and route the tube back up to the fresh air port on the carburetor. That will be much simpler, neater, and more effective than the way you are doing it.

I did but on the EFI manifolds there is not really any where to mount it.

I also think the loops around the manifold would be getting more heat than that half can and the tube passing through it.

I needed to pick up a new oil psi sender and when at the parts store picked up some header wrap.

I will make a few more wraps of copper and them the header wrap to keep the heat in.

And dont you know this week its going to be in the 70's and dont need a choke

Dave ----

[LARIAT 85]

I also think the loops around the manifold would be getting more heat than that half can and the tube passing through it.

Dave ----

I think you are obviously wrong.

 

You have a problem with your choke not getting hot enough with numerous loops around the manifold.

I do not have this problem at all, and I am running the Choke Stove kit with the half can and tube passing through it.

But hey, good luck. Maybe you will hit on the magic number of loops around your manifold to finally get the choke hot enough to work correctly.

[FuzzFace2]

I also think the loops around the manifold would be getting more heat than that half can and the tube passing through it.

Dave ----

I think you are obviously wrong.

 

You have a problem with your choke not getting hot enough with numerous loops around the manifold.

I do not have this problem at all, and I am running the Choke Stove kit with the half can and tube passing through it.

But hey, good luck. Maybe you will hit on the magic number of loops around your manifold to finally get the choke hot enough to work correctly.

Is that on a 300 six with EFI exh manifolds?

I will have to find where I put the kit and give it a try and see.

I think its where the rest of the copper tubing is

I wont have time till most likely Sunday to look for them and maybe make any changes if I have the time.

It is also going to be in the 70's and the choke works good at that temp.

Dave ----

[LARIAT 85]

Is that on a 300 six with EFI exh manifolds?

I will have to find where I put the kit and give it a try and see.

I think its where the rest of the copper tubing is

I wont have time till most likely Sunday to look for them and maybe make any changes if I have the time.

It is also going to be in the 70's and the choke works good at that temp.

Dave ----

No, mine is on a 5.0 with ceramic coated Tri-Y headers.

I think the copper tubing out in the open may also be part of your problem. Copper heats up fast, but it also loses heat faster than aluminum. The [aluminum] choke stove "dome" in the kit will help the copper tubing retain heat. And the insulated hot air tube sleeve will help keep it hot until it reaches the choke cap.

 

[rcarlisle]

Is that on a 300 six with EFI exh manifolds?

I will have to find where I put the kit and give it a try and see.

I think its where the rest of the copper tubing is

I wont have time till most likely Sunday to look for them and maybe make any changes if I have the time.

It is also going to be in the 70's and the choke works good at that temp.

Dave ----

I used Lariat's idea of inlet/outlet tubes on the dorman piece. I have 302 with stock manifolds and plugged hot air boss. SO I bought the Dorman piece, drilled the second end. In that I packed the OEM metal filter material someone recommended here. Then installed tubes in each end and routed them up to the carb.

The Dorman bucket piece is hose clamped to the passenger exhaust down pipe as the instructions offer. It's so far down you can't see anything but my poor attempt at tube forming coming up from down behind engine. I also had to buy copper tube as the aluminum won't stand up to much hard handling.

If you want to try that, it doesn't have to go on manifold and can be set up to pull the air flow all the way through from the filtered air at carb top. I don't have any good photos and probably won't help with your 6 anyway. But it does seem to work correctly.

[edit] after reading through again, I'm just not sure there isn't something else happening though. Your reasoning and routing with the copper tubing seems pretty solid to me. Does your choke cap end of copper tubing have some vacuum to draw the heat through? Seems like the 2150 has a provision for a bit of vacuum to help draw the hot air in.

 

[85lebaront2]

I used Lariat's idea of inlet/outlet tubes on the dorman piece. I have 302 with stock manifolds and plugged hot air boss. SO I bought the Dorman piece, drilled the second end. In that I packed the OEM metal filter material someone recommended here. Then installed tubes in each end and routed them up to the carb.

The Dorman bucket piece is hose clamped to the passenger exhaust down pipe as the instructions offer. It's so far down you can't see anything but my poor attempt at tube forming coming up from down behind engine. I also had to buy copper tube as the aluminum won't stand up to much hard handling.

If you want to try that, it doesn't have to go on manifold and can be set up to pull the air flow all the way through from the filtered air at carb top. I don't have any good photos and probably won't help with your 6 anyway. But it does seem to work correctly.

[edit] after reading through again, I'm just not sure there isn't something else happening though. Your reasoning and routing with the copper tubing seems pretty solid to me. Does your choke cap end of copper tubing have some vacuum to draw the heat through? Seems like the 2150 has a provision for a bit of vacuum to help draw the hot air in.

Randy, all hot air chokes have a vacuum passage internally to pull the air through. The water heated ones still will have a choke pull-off, either an internal piston or a diaphragm that can be internal or external.

[rcarlisle]

Randy, all hot air chokes have a vacuum passage internally to pull the air through. The water heated ones still will have a choke pull-off, either an internal piston or a diaphragm that can be internal or external.

ok, good to know - thanks.

[FuzzFace2]

Is that on a 300 six with EFI exh manifolds?

I will have to find where I put the kit and give it a try and see.

I think its where the rest of the copper tubing is

I wont have time till most likely Sunday to look for them and maybe make any changes if I have the time.

It is also going to be in the 70's and the choke works good at that temp.

Dave ----

No, mine is on a 5.0 with ceramic coated Tri-Y headers.

I think the copper tubing out in the open may also be part of your problem. Copper heats up fast, but it also loses heat faster than aluminum. The [aluminum] choke stove "dome" in the kit will help the copper tubing retain heat. And the insulated hot air tube sleeve will help keep it hot until it reaches the choke cap.

I do have the insulated sleeve on the hot side of the tube.

Think one of the pictures shows it.

[edit] after reading through again, I'm just not sure there isn't something else happening though. Your reasoning and routing with the copper tubing seems pretty solid to me. Does your choke cap end of copper tubing have some vacuum to draw the heat through? Seems like the 2150 has a provision for a bit of vacuum to help draw the hot air in.

When I was checking it fast the last time it was pulling a vacuum it just took a long time for the heat to reach the choke.

I did buy some header wrap the other day but I have to check into this more.

I did lean it out last time and that helped a little but it also got warm.

Tomorrow its going to be the last day in the 70's before getting cool again (50's & 60's) for the next week so I dont know if I do anything will help when it gets down below 45*?

Dave ----

 

[Tarheel Blue]

Is that on a 300 six with EFI exh manifolds?

I will have to find where I put the kit and give it a try and see.

I think its where the rest of the copper tubing is

I wont have time till most likely Sunday to look for them and maybe make any changes if I have the time.

It is also going to be in the 70's and the choke works good at that temp.

Dave ----

No, mine is on a 5.0 with ceramic coated Tri-Y headers.

I think the copper tubing out in the open may also be part of your problem. Copper heats up fast, but it also loses heat faster than aluminum. The [aluminum] choke stove "dome" in the kit will help the copper tubing retain heat. And the insulated hot air tube sleeve will help keep it hot until it reaches the choke cap.

I do have the insulated sleeve on the hot side of the tube.

Think one of the pictures shows it.

[edit] after reading through again, I'm just not sure there isn't something else happening though. Your reasoning and routing with the copper tubing seems pretty solid to me. Does your choke cap end of copper tubing have some vacuum to draw the heat through? Seems like the 2150 has a provision for a bit of vacuum to help draw the hot air in.

When I was checking it fast the last time it was pulling a vacuum it just took a long time for the heat to reach the choke.

I did buy some header wrap the other day but I have to check into this more.

I did lean it out last time and that helped a little but it also got warm.

Tomorrow its going to be the last day in the 70's before getting cool again (50's & 60's) for the next week so I dont know if I do anything will help when it gets down below 45*?

Dave ----

Dave,

In that pile of YFA stuff that I gave you the other day, wasn’t there an electric choke cap?

If not, I have one on my shelf.