Choke Question, what would you do?

[FuzzFace2]

My 81 F100 with a 300 six, factory Carter v1 carb and EFI exh manifolds and the manifold may be where the issue lies? The intake had a hot water plate to heat the intake / carb.

I have used the truck last few days to work and is has gotten cold, this morning it was 28*f when I left at 3am. I am finding at 45* or lower the choke will not pull off all the way and the fast idle stays on and the AFR gauge stuck on 10, the highest rich reading. The truck runs great other wise and above 45* the choke pulls off as it should.

I pulled the below information from here so you know how Ford wanted the choke to work.

Hot Air w/Electric Assist: The 1981 factory shop manual says this: "The hot air choke with the electric assist choke cap functions as follows: as the engine warms up, manifold heat transmitted by hot air to the choke housing relaxes the bimetal permitting the choke to open. The electric assist has a ceramic heating pill. At temperatures above 12 degrees C (54 degrees F) to 23 degrees C (74 degrees F), the temperature sensing switch closes and current is supplied to the heater causing the bimetal to pull the choke plate open at an increased rate. The electric assist choke cap is powered from the stator tap of the alternator."

Now for them EFI EXH manifolds that I think might be where the problem lies.

The stock log manifold had the "hot air tube" my fix for that was to wrap copper tubing around 1 of the tubes. I wonder if I may not have made enough wraps of the copper to pick up heat?

I think (need to re-check) that I used the white insulation sleve on the hot side.

So is it not enough heat from the "hot air tube" or something else?

I will be leaning out the choke a little so I can drive it when below 45*

Dave ----

[85lebaront2]

Dave, you could put a completely electric choke thermostat on it, then it would warm at a fixed rate. If you can find a water heated choke cover, like Pintos used and make it fit, then it would be tied to engine warm up.

[Gary Lewis]

Dave, you could put a completely electric choke thermostat on it, then it would warm at a fixed rate. If you can find a water heated choke cover, like Pintos used and make it fit, then it would be tied to engine warm up.

Bill - That's a good idea. Here's a link to Mike's where he lists several choke stoves, so Dave would just have to get the right one.

But, I found something else. Some folks on a forum about a car line called AMC, whatever that is, were talking about a Carter YF electric choke conversion. Anybody heard of an AMC?

[85lebaront2]

Bill - That's a good idea. Here's a link to Mike's where he lists several choke stoves, so Dave would just have to get the right one.

But, I found something else. Some folks on a forum about a car line called AMC, whatever that is, were talking about a Carter YF electric choke conversion. Anybody heard of an AMC?

Yeah, I think they were formed from Hudson and Nash (trivia item, cast on the Gen 1 AMC V8 heads are the joined letters HN for Hudson Nash)

[Gary Lewis]

Yeah, I think they were formed from Hudson and Nash (trivia item, cast on the Gen 1 AMC V8 heads are the joined letters HN for Hudson Nash)

Didn't know that.

Anyway, an electric choke would be easy. But the hot-water Pinto choke would be ... cool? What carb did they have and will the choke cap/stove fit a YF/YFA?

[FuzzFace2]

Didn't know that.

Anyway, an electric choke would be easy. But the hot-water Pinto choke would be ... cool? What carb did they have and will the choke cap/stove fit a YF/YFA?

Happy turkey day everyone

Thanks guys but I dont know what a AMC is

I dont really want to use a full 12 volt cap as I would need to run a wire from power with key on and as said on that AMC link should run through something so the choke is not powered up if not running like a oil pressure switch that is more work also.

What I did pick up from that AMC site if you could not run tubing like the factory, through the manifold, was to wrap copper around the manifold like I did. This leads me to think I need to do more wraps to pick up more heat and make sure the hot side is insulated.

On the hot water cap I was also thinking of the bracket Ford used on v8 motors that held the heater hose to the choke cap to help it heat up. But I would need to run more heater hoses. I have a heater core bypass valve installed and the intake heater so have more hoses down there now.

I also think that low heat is the issue because the choke would almost open when stop at lights for a bit but if driving and then came to a light the choke would be back on, fast idle. I think the cold air blowing through the engine bay would cool the heat side of the copper tubing.

I also dont have any protection covering the copper on the manifold and that may help trap heat.

I have some home work to do to see what would be the easiest (I am lazy but also want it to look factory) way to get this choke to work like it should.

Thanks

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Happy turkey day everyone

Thanks guys but I dont know what a AMC is

I dont really want to use a full 12 volt cap as I would need to run a wire from power with key on and as said on that AMC link should run through something so the choke is not powered up if not running like a oil pressure switch that is more work also.

What I did pick up from that AMC site if you could not run tubing like the factory, through the manifold, was to wrap copper around the manifold like I did. This leads me to think I need to do more wraps to pick up more heat and make sure the hot side is insulated.

On the hot water cap I was also thinking of the bracket Ford used on v8 motors that held the heater hose to the choke cap to help it heat up. But I would need to run more heater hoses. I have a heater core bypass valve installed and the intake heater so have more hoses down there now.

I also think that low heat is the issue because the choke would almost open when stop at lights for a bit but if driving and then came to a light the choke would be back on, fast idle. I think the cold air blowing through the engine bay would cool the heat side of the copper tubing.

I also dont have any protection covering the copper on the manifold and that may help trap heat.

I have some home work to do to see what would be the easiest (I am lazy but also want it to look factory) way to get this choke to work like it should.

Thanks

Dave ----

I suspect you are right that the air is cooling the tubing. So if you can insulate the hot side it might help.

[85lebaront2]

Happy turkey day everyone

Thanks guys but I dont know what a AMC is

I dont really want to use a full 12 volt cap as I would need to run a wire from power with key on and as said on that AMC link should run through something so the choke is not powered up if not running like a oil pressure switch that is more work also.

What I did pick up from that AMC site if you could not run tubing like the factory, through the manifold, was to wrap copper around the manifold like I did. This leads me to think I need to do more wraps to pick up more heat and make sure the hot side is insulated.

On the hot water cap I was also thinking of the bracket Ford used on v8 motors that held the heater hose to the choke cap to help it heat up. But I would need to run more heater hoses. I have a heater core bypass valve installed and the intake heater so have more hoses down there now.

I also think that low heat is the issue because the choke would almost open when stop at lights for a bit but if driving and then came to a light the choke would be back on, fast idle. I think the cold air blowing through the engine bay would cool the heat side of the copper tubing.

I also dont have any protection covering the copper on the manifold and that may help trap heat.

I have some home work to do to see what would be the easiest (I am lazy but also want it to look factory) way to get this choke to work like it should.

Thanks

Dave ----

AMC = American Motors Corporation, merged with or acquired by Renault, split from Renaualt and taken over by Chrysler, who in turn went through a number of ownership changes, Cerebus Capital, a merger with Daimler-Benz, dissolved and acquired/merged with Fiat to become Fiat Chrysler Automobiles.

FCA was recently merged with PSA (Peugeot and Renault) to become Stellantis. Headquartered in Italy, brands include Alfa-Romeo, Fiat, Ferrari, Maseratti, Renault, Peugeot, Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ram and a few others.

[FuzzFace2]

AMC = American Motors Corporation, merged with or acquired by Renault, split from Renaualt and taken over by Chrysler, who in turn went through a number of ownership changes, Cerebus Capital, a merger with Daimler-Benz, dissolved and acquired/merged with Fiat to become Fiat Chrysler Automobiles.

FCA was recently merged with PSA (Peugeot and Renault) to become Stellantis. Headquartered in Italy, brands include Alfa-Romeo, Fiat, Ferrari, Maseratti, Renault, Peugeot, Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ram and a few others.

Bill, it was a joke as I know of AMC as I have been into them for a long time. I have 2 1970 Javelins, 1/4 mile drag car and a car I have been re-building for the street I have had for over 30 years now.

I also have a 1975 Gremlin factory v8 auto and a bunch of parts I have picked up over the years.

When Chrysler bought AMC back in 1988 they did it for the Jeep side and got rid of anything else AMC including all parts as they were crushed

It was a sad day for us AMC fans.

It might be warm enough, 45* from 27* to go look at this choke issue and maybe the trailer hitch so I can get the spare tire mounted.

Dave ----

[jdavidsmi]

AMC = American Motors Corporation, merged with or acquired by Renault, split from Renaualt and taken over by Chrysler, who in turn went through a number of ownership changes, Cerebus Capital, a merger with Daimler-Benz, dissolved and acquired/merged with Fiat to become Fiat Chrysler Automobiles.

FCA was recently merged with PSA (Peugeot and Renault) to become Stellantis. Headquartered in Italy, brands include Alfa-Romeo, Fiat, Ferrari, Maseratti, Renault, Peugeot, Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ram and a few others.

Bill, it was a joke as I know of AMC as I have been into them for a long time. I have 2 1970 Javelins, 1/4 mile drag car and a car I have been re-building for the street I have had for over 30 years now.

I also have a 1975 Gremlin factory v8 auto and a bunch of parts I have picked up over the years.

When Chrysler bought AMC back in 1988 they did it for the Jeep side and got rid of anything else AMC including all parts as they were crushed

It was a sad day for us AMC fans.

It might be warm enough, 45* from 27* to go look at this choke issue and maybe the trailer hitch so I can get the spare tire mounted.

Dave ----

I thought everyone has a AMC car hidden back in their history.

We had a Pacer in the 70s, kept having issues with wiring harness melting and the car would just die. It was in the shop as much as it was drivable. After 3 months, Traded it in on a Chev Malibu wagon .

Sorry for the hi jack, still cringe when I think about it.