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V8 swap from 300 i6


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Hi Guys,

I'm just starting to look at getting read to do the V8 swap in the truck. I still don't know whether to go 302 or 351 Windsor. I have a 5.0 (302 Windsor) out of a 85 Mustang with a T5 gearbox which the engine has a Mustang double humped oil pan. Will this oil pan fit into the truck or will I have to chase up a rear sump pick up for a truck?

Has anyone else fitted a T5 behind the V8 in any of these bullnose trucks. I'm looking for info as it has a cable clutch (not a mechanical or hydraulic) and the shifter is situated back further than the stock shifter.

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I see LMC truck sells the Windsor V8 engine mounts, so they're still available if you need them.

As far as I know, the T5 swap has indeed been done, but the shifter ends up being really far back...so much so the bench seat is in the way as I understand it. Maybe need bucket seats...or a custom shifter arrangement.

I was going to go the T5 route myself, but ended up with a cheap M5OD 5spd out of a 1991 F250. It does the job, but the T5 would be much nicer imho.

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...which the engine has a Mustang double humped oil pan. Will this oil pan fit into the truck or will I have to chase up a rear sump pick up for a truck?

I'm pretty sure you need the truck rear sump oil pan and pickup. I don't think there's much clearance between the truck pan and the crossmember below it.

 

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...which the engine has a Mustang double humped oil pan. Will this oil pan fit into the truck or will I have to chase up a rear sump pick up for a truck?

I'm pretty sure you need the truck rear sump oil pan and pickup. I don't think there's much clearance between the truck pan and the crossmember below it.

Yes, I agree you need the rear sump pan. But I have no info on the T5.

However, on the 302/351 debate, I'm a big fan of a longer stroke to get torque. But a lot depends on what you are going to do with the truck. If you are just cruising and want to get decent MPG with the truck then the 302 might be the better choice. And that's especially the case if the one you have is serviceable and you are trying to keep costs down.

But if you are going to have to have an engine built it doesn't cost more to build a 351 than a 302 - at least here. And especially if you are searching for power and are considering a stroker kit then the 351 is a better starting point.

So, what's the plan for the truck?

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Yes, I agree you need the rear sump pan. But I have no info on the T5.

However, on the 302/351 debate, I'm a big fan of a longer stroke to get torque. But a lot depends on what you are going to do with the truck. If you are just cruising and want to get decent MPG with the truck then the 302 might be the better choice. And that's especially the case if the one you have is serviceable and you are trying to keep costs down.

But if you are going to have to have an engine built it doesn't cost more to build a 351 than a 302 - at least here. And especially if you are searching for power and are considering a stroker kit then the 351 is a better starting point.

So, what's the plan for the truck?

Gary the plan for the truck is to have a good reliable cruiser that may carry a load in the back occasionally. I just want the truck to have a nice note (small cam) and be reliable. I'm just starting to put a list together of what I will need to chase up for the conversion.

My question is, is that small silver box that runs to the distributor the same for 6 and 8 cylinder engines or will that need to be changed as well? As for the 302 or the 351, I'm still in two minds which way to go. The 302 in a runner but out of one of my old Mustangs and the 351 I bought it to rebuild.

Parts that I need to chase up:

1. oil pan/pick up and dip stick

2. v8 Radiator

3. v8 truck engine mounts

 

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Gary the plan for the truck is to have a good reliable cruiser that may carry a load in the back occasionally. I just want the truck to have a nice note (small cam) and be reliable. I'm just starting to put a list together of what I will need to chase up for the conversion.

My question is, is that small silver box that runs to the distributor the same for 6 and 8 cylinder engines or will that need to be changed as well? As for the 302 or the 351, I'm still in two minds which way to go. The 302 in a runner but out of one of my old Mustangs and the 351 I bought it to rebuild.

Parts that I need to chase up:

1. oil pan/pick up and dip stick

2. v8 Radiator

3. v8 truck engine mounts

The truck pans are cheap at least (over here anyway).

I just installed a Spectra Premium FP01A on the 302 in my Bullnose. I bought it locally, but it's here on the top of the list on RockAuto. I think it may have been especially cheap for me because they're made in Canada.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1984,f-150,5.0l+302cid+v8,1121443,engine,oil+pan,5562

With that I used the Fel-Pro Perma-Dry Plus 1pc gasket, and it cost as much as the pan did...lol.

Shown at the bottom of the list here p/n OS13260T.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1984,f-150,5.0l+302cid+v8,1121443,engine,oil+pan+gasket,5436

I went with the same gaskets for the valve covers as well. They're expensive, but appear to get rave reviews online.

My the original valve cover and oil pan gaskets were literally falling out of my engine when I pulled it, and I was determined to not have any leaks afterwards. I know the '85 Mustang engine with have a 1pc rear main seal, but did they have the factory 1pc oil pan gaskets? I'm not sure when Ford started using those...but one of the guys on here will know. My 1984 302 still had the old 4pc pan gasket.

 

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My question is, is that small silver box that runs to the distributor the same for 6 and 8 cylinder engines or will that need to be changed as well?

According to the listings in my LMC catalog, they're the same units. I'm no DSII expert, so there are guys on here that will know much more about them than me.

 

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My question is, is that small silver box that runs to the distributor the same for 6 and 8 cylinder engines or will that need to be changed as well?

According to the listings in my LMC catalog, they're the same units. I'm no DSII expert, so there are guys on here that will know much more about them than me.

Thought there was a post on the other forum on the T5 and the shifter.

The stick ends up at the edge of the bench seat with it all the way back.

IIRC the person made an off set for the shift handle / stick so it would be farther forward and used a curved handle / stick.

The part the handle / stick bolts to is low enough to clear the seat it is the handle / stick that hits the seat.

The person then switch the T5 for a T56 and that trany you can mount the shifter forward on the housing so it is not an issue.

I tried a search but could not find it sorry.

As for the cable for the clutch measure the 2 bell housings and if the same front to rear I think you should be able to swap them and use your clutch linkage.

Other wise you may need to see about mounting a slave cly and master.

Dave ----

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Thought there was a post on the other forum on the T5 and the shifter.

The stick ends up at the edge of the bench seat with it all the way back.

IIRC the person made an off set for the shift handle / stick so it would be farther forward and used a curved handle / stick.

The part the handle / stick bolts to is low enough to clear the seat it is the handle / stick that hits the seat.

The person then switch the T5 for a T56 and that trany you can mount the shifter forward on the housing so it is not an issue.

I tried a search but could not find it sorry.

As for the cable for the clutch measure the 2 bell housings and if the same front to rear I think you should be able to swap them and use your clutch linkage.

Other wise you may need to see about mounting a slave cly and master.

Dave ----

There is a mention on here of an adapter, made in Queensland, that moves the shifter. The post is here, and the outfit that makes it is Mal Wood.

And the DS-II boxes aren't engine-specific. In other words, the same box works on an engine without regard to the number of cylinders. It just fires when the reluctor in the dizzy tells it to do so.

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There is a mention on here of an adapter, made in Queensland, that moves the shifter. The post is here, and the outfit that makes it is Mal Wood.

And the DS-II boxes aren't engine-specific. In other words, the same box works on an engine without regard to the number of cylinders. It just fires when the reluctor in the dizzy tells it to do so.

That Mal Wood extension looks like to be the ticket as the shifter is in the same place as the Chevy S10 but the speedo is where it needs to be for the Ford T5.

Wonder why no one state side has done this?

I know the shifter placement has been an issue with some of T5 swaps.

Thing was you could not use the chevy T5 housing because the speedo was cast in a different place and the speedo drive gear could not be moved on the Ford out put shaft so the out put shaft would need to be swapped read trany rebuild.

I was lucky my Ford T5 swap into a 70 AMC the shifter was only a few inches back & center from the factory 4sp shifter. Even the stock speedo cable would of worked but I went with a GPS speedo gauge.

Dave ----

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