The Deuce Build Thread

[Pete Whitstone]

The specs on the spindle nuts, which I think is what you are asking about are: Install and tighten the spindle attaching nuts to 68-81 N-m (50-60 ft-lbs).

No, I was asking about the 5 nuts that hold the hub, or snout on. The thing that the wheel bearings go on. The thing I had so much fun removing. I guessed at 70 lb ft, then I found a spec in a Haynes manual that was 60, so I'm not too far off.

The instructions are on the Front Axles & Differentials tab on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials. But the torque specs aren't in the table at the end of the chapter like they should be. Instead they are in the text.

I know you have a lot of documentation on this site, but I haven't learned to navigate it very well yet. Thanks for the pointer!

And I'm surprised that you could get it on with the groove in the wrong place. Did you swap sides? I don't think it really matters though.

I didn't find any slots or keyways or grooves or anything that would have prevented mounting it in any of the 5 possible orientations. I'll have to take a closer look at the passenger side, which is still in pieces.

Any thoughts on what bad things might happen if I leave it like it is?

The only reason I could think of for any orientation was if they built some camber into the piece, but it does not look like they did. Maybe something to do with the 4WD?

[Gary Lewis]

The specs on the spindle nuts, which I think is what you are asking about are: Install and tighten the spindle attaching nuts to 68-81 N-m (50-60 ft-lbs).

No, I was asking about the 5 nuts that hold the hub, or snout on. The thing that the wheel bearings go on. The thing I had so much fun removing. I guessed at 70 lb ft, then I found a spec in a Haynes manual that was 60, so I'm not too far off.

The instructions are on the Front Axles & Differentials tab on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials. But the torque specs aren't in the table at the end of the chapter like they should be. Instead they are in the text.

I know you have a lot of documentation on this site, but I haven't learned to navigate it very well yet. Thanks for the pointer!

And I'm surprised that you could get it on with the groove in the wrong place. Did you swap sides? I don't think it really matters though.

I didn't find any slots or keyways or grooves or anything that would have prevented mounting it in any of the 5 possible orientations. I'll have to take a closer look at the passenger side, which is still in pieces.

Any thoughts on what bad things might happen if I leave it like it is?

The only reason I could think of for any orientation was if they built some camber into the piece, but it does not look like they did. Maybe something to do with the 4WD?

I'm confused. I'm not sure what you mean by "snout". Here's a diagram that might help us:

[Pete Whitstone]

I'm confused. I'm not sure what you mean by "snout". Here's a diagram that might help us:

Ah good call. I'm not all that familiar with factory terms. The part I'm talking about in that diagram is the "Spindle - 3105".

[Gary Lewis]

I'm confused. I'm not sure what you mean by "snout". Here's a diagram that might help us:

Ah good call. I'm not all that familiar with factory terms. The part I'm talking about in that diagram is the "Spindle - 3105".

Then I don't see any problem with the groove being other than at the top.

[Pete Whitstone]

OK got the truck mostly back together. I say mostly because a couple of the steering pieces had a hole for a zerk fitting, but no zerks were included. No problem, I'll just get some off the shelf... no. I have a bunch of the 1/4-28 and a couple of the M6, but they were both too big. I'm guessing maybe it's a mini-zerk but I can't find the thread specifications on those. My dial caliper says the hole is about 0.190. Guess I'll have to get a couple and see if they go in.

After setting the toe and driving the truck a bit, I got back under it to inspect things, and found that the driver side swingarm bolt, which is installed nut to the back, had left a mark on the passenger side axle shaft. So I either need to cut off the end of the bolt, or just pull it out and reverse it.

The new ball joints and steering pieces took almost all the slop out of the steering, and the suspension feels pretty well planted. The sway bar in the rear helps in the corners. The ride is stiffer than it used to be, but it's not harsh.

I haven't been able to get a great measurement on where the camber landed, but it looks like the driver side is very close to zero, and the passenger side may even be slightly on the negative side. I'll take that.

I also finished installing the step bars, which required a bunch of custom bracketry. If the LMC site warned that they don't work with flaresides, I totally missed that. But I made it all work.

 

I do like the stance with the 4wd suspension under it.

Next up, rebuilding the E4OD from the 95.

[Gary Lewis]

OK got the truck mostly back together. I say mostly because a couple of the steering pieces had a hole for a zerk fitting, but no zerks were included. No problem, I'll just get some off the shelf... no. I have a bunch of the 1/4-28 and a couple of the M6, but they were both too big. I'm guessing maybe it's a mini-zerk but I can't find the thread specifications on those. My dial caliper says the hole is about 0.190. Guess I'll have to get a couple and see if they go in.

After setting the toe and driving the truck a bit, I got back under it to inspect things, and found that the driver side swingarm bolt, which is installed nut to the back, had left a mark on the passenger side axle shaft. So I either need to cut off the end of the bolt, or just pull it out and reverse it.

The new ball joints and steering pieces took almost all the slop out of the steering, and the suspension feels pretty well planted. The sway bar in the rear helps in the corners. The ride is stiffer than it used to be, but it's not harsh.

I haven't been able to get a great measurement on where the camber landed, but it looks like the driver side is very close to zero, and the passenger side may even be slightly on the negative side. I'll take that.

I also finished installing the step bars, which required a bunch of custom bracketry. If the LMC site warned that they don't work with flaresides, I totally missed that. But I made it all work.

 

I do like the stance with the 4wd suspension under it.

Next up, rebuilding the E4OD from the 95.

Good progress, and progress is good!

Cool that the camber seems to have sorted itself out.

I, too, like the stance.

Are you going to do the tranny rebuild? Hope you are going to document it.

[Pete Whitstone]

Are you going to do the tranny rebuild? Hope you are going to document it.

Yes, I am going to tackle the tranny rebuild I've never done one before, so it should be interesting. I probably wouldn't have the courage to do it, but I found a YouTube series by a company called The Transmission Bench. They offer master rebuild kits that have everything you need, and then they show you in the videos step by step how to install everything - pretty much in excruciating detail, the E4OD instructional is about 16 hours long I think. I've already watched it all the way through once, to see what I was getting into. It seems simple enough, once you see the video.

So with that level of documentation out there, no I probably won't document my build, it would never be as detailed and good as what's already out there. And it would take a lot of time to document properly. Instead I'll just say to watch the Transmission Bench videos if you have an interest in rebuilding your automatic.

[Gary Lewis]

Are you going to do the tranny rebuild? Hope you are going to document it.

Yes, I am going to tackle the tranny rebuild I've never done one before, so it should be interesting. I probably wouldn't have the courage to do it, but I found a YouTube series by a company called The Transmission Bench. They offer master rebuild kits that have everything you need, and then they show you in the videos step by step how to install everything - pretty much in excruciating detail, the E4OD instructional is about 16 hours long I think. I've already watched it all the way through once, to see what I was getting into. It seems simple enough, once you see the video.

So with that level of documentation out there, no I probably won't document my build, it would never be as detailed and good as what's already out there. And it would take a lot of time to document properly. Instead I'll just say to watch the Transmission Bench videos if you have an interest in rebuilding your automatic.

That makes sense. But make sure you give us the link.

Also, you could document the choices you make, if any, on the level of parts. By that I mean, will you go with a stock torque converter or one that’s beefed up? Clutches? Etc.

[Pete Whitstone]

Well I have dived in to rebuilding the E4OD from the 95 donor truck. Feeling confident so far, the disassembly is going well. Have bought 1 special tool and built 2 more. The bought one is the black press-looking thing in the left of this photo, sitting on the table. About $65, it is used for compressing the springs found in some clutch packs. You have to compress the springs in order to be able to safely remove the snap ring/circlip thingee that holds the whole pack together. One of the built ones is the 2x4 stand under the table. The third tool is pretty simple, just some threaded rod and iron bars, I don't have it assembled yet.

The box on the left under the table contains all new guts for the transmission. Since I'm still in disassembly, I don't have anything in there out yet.

This shot shows the trans partially disassembled.

The valve body area has been taken apart, then the trans put on the stand so the internals can start to come out. The third tool is needed for the first step of that, which removes the pump that is immediately behind the torque converter. Once that's out, disassembly should go pretty quick. I'm hoping to get most of this done over the weekend, but I am still waiting on some parts for the valve body area (the part the pan covers). And if I find any broken parts inside the trans, I will need to replace those as well. The truck was not in driving condition when I got it, so I don't know if it was parked because of trans issues, or other issues. I might be taking apart a perfectly fine transmission, but it's still got 162k mi on it, so it's time for a rebuild anyway.

So far the costs have been pretty reasonable. The master rebuild kit, which includes a shift kit, was about $500. There is an electronic solenoid pack that controls the transmission, which was another $500 or so. Then less than $100 into special tools. I got the master rebuild kit from a company called The Transmission Bench. When you buy a kit, they also give you a flash drive with a series of highly detailed classroom instructions that walk you through the rebuild. The videos are also available on YouTube.

More to come.

[grumpin]

Well I have dived in to rebuilding the E4OD from the 95 donor truck. Feeling confident so far, the disassembly is going well. Have bought 1 special tool and built 2 more. The bought one is the black press-looking thing in the left of this photo, sitting on the table. About $65, it is used for compressing the springs found in some clutch packs. You have to compress the springs in order to be able to safely remove the snap ring/circlip thingee that holds the whole pack together. One of the built ones is the 2x4 stand under the table. The third tool is pretty simple, just some threaded rod and iron bars, I don't have it assembled yet.

The box on the left under the table contains all new guts for the transmission. Since I'm still in disassembly, I don't have anything in there out yet.

This shot shows the trans partially disassembled.

The valve body area has been taken apart, then the trans put on the stand so the internals can start to come out. The third tool is needed for the first step of that, which removes the pump that is immediately behind the torque converter. Once that's out, disassembly should go pretty quick. I'm hoping to get most of this done over the weekend, but I am still waiting on some parts for the valve body area (the part the pan covers). And if I find any broken parts inside the trans, I will need to replace those as well. The truck was not in driving condition when I got it, so I don't know if it was parked because of trans issues, or other issues. I might be taking apart a perfectly fine transmission, but it's still got 162k mi on it, so it's time for a rebuild anyway.

So far the costs have been pretty reasonable. The master rebuild kit, which includes a shift kit, was about $500. There is an electronic solenoid pack that controls the transmission, which was another $500 or so. Then less than $100 into special tools. I got the master rebuild kit from a company called The Transmission Bench. When you buy a kit, they also give you a flash drive with a series of highly detailed classroom instructions that walk you through the rebuild. The videos are also available on YouTube.

More to come.

Cool! Thanks for documenting this!