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'95 FDM for your '85 gauge


Tarheel Blue

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I hope you achieve that smooth progression. But IIRC, Ford says that 22 ohms should give a center reading on the gauges. IOW, the 10 to 72 ohms apparently isn't linear.

I had read that also, about 22 ohms being +/- 1/2 tank and The Fluke indeed reads 22 @ mid travel of the sweep. So I guess the term linear isn't quite right.

What I don't understand is the reading of 8 ohms @ Full. I thought it would go to 0?

Maybe with it staying @ 8, it will keep the gauge from swinging too far to the right.

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I had read that also, about 22 ohms being +/- 1/2 tank and The Fluke indeed reads 22 @ mid travel of the sweep. So I guess the term linear isn't quite right.

What I don't understand is the reading of 8 ohms @ Full. I thought it would go to 0?

Maybe with it staying @ 8, it will keep the gauge from swinging too far to the right.

The way the system works if the resistance of the senders went to zero it would pull too much current through the circuit and fry something.

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I had read that also, about 22 ohms being +/- 1/2 tank and The Fluke indeed reads 22 @ mid travel of the sweep. So I guess the term linear isn't quite right.

What I don't understand is the reading of 8 ohms @ Full. I thought it would go to 0?

Maybe with it staying @ 8, it will keep the gauge from swinging too far to the right.

I seen Kurt's pump /sender in person yesterday and got to tell you it looks factory and should work as good.

He is using this EFI pump assy. because down the road he wants to go EFI and no need to go back in and redo this if he is there now. He also wants it to work with the Carter YFA carb till he dose the EFI swap.

He is working on mounting the Bronco tank and rounding up cross members to do so.

Being the tank is shorter front / rear than the pick up tanks he cant use pick up parts with out modding them.

I think he is looking for the front tank cross member for a rear mounted pick up truck tank as that looks to be able to be used.

The rear cross member I think a angle iron drilled and bolted to the frame to mount the rear of the Bronco tank should work.

As said it is all factory parts just not from the same years and I dint have a problem with that.

Then again by the time anyone gets my truck or any of ours what parts will they be able to get for them?

My guess they will have to "rig up" something to make it work.

As for "linear" when I added the custom gauges to my 70 AMC Javelin that was the issue with the fuel gauge sender. IIRC they had the ohm readings for the sender and I had them set the gauge to read full / half / empty with 5 gallons in the tank.

I was more worried about the empty reading than the others and so what if they did not track right I just did not want to run out of gas with the gauge showing 1/4 tank.

I will be following this set up.

Dave ----

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I seen Kurt's pump /sender in person yesterday and got to tell you it looks factory and should work as good.

He is using this EFI pump assy. because down the road he wants to go EFI and no need to go back in and redo this if he is there now. He also wants it to work with the Carter YFA carb till he dose the EFI swap.

He is working on mounting the Bronco tank and rounding up cross members to do so.

Being the tank is shorter front / rear than the pick up tanks he cant use pick up parts with out modding them.

I think he is looking for the front tank cross member for a rear mounted pick up truck tank as that looks to be able to be used.

The rear cross member I think a angle iron drilled and bolted to the frame to mount the rear of the Bronco tank should work.

As said it is all factory parts just not from the same years and I dint have a problem with that.

Then again by the time anyone gets my truck or any of ours what parts will they be able to get for them?

My guess they will have to "rig up" something to make it work.

As for "linear" when I added the custom gauges to my 70 AMC Javelin that was the issue with the fuel gauge sender. IIRC they had the ohm readings for the sender and I had them set the gauge to read full / half / empty with 5 gallons in the tank.

I was more worried about the empty reading than the others and so what if they did not track right I just did not want to run out of gas with the gauge showing 1/4 tank.

I will be following this set up.

Dave ----

Just as an FYI, I'm running the EFI fuel delivery modules (FDM's) on Big Blue with a carb, an Edelbrock to be exact. And I can tell you that one fuel pressure regulator, even a return-style, isn't enough to tame the pressure. I had to double-head regulators, with a return-style first and a dead-head style second. You can see that in this post in Big Blue's Transformation.

The issue was that with just the return-style regulator in place the fuel pressure would pulse. And the pressure during the pulses was more than I think the carb would handle. You can see a video of the pulsing here: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Big-Blue-s-Transformation-tp28014p73671.html.

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Just as an FYI, I'm running the EFI fuel delivery modules (FDM's) on Big Blue with a carb, an Edelbrock to be exact. And I can tell you that one fuel pressure regulator, even a return-style, isn't enough to tame the pressure. I had to double-head regulators, with a return-style first and a dead-head style second. You can see that in this post in Big Blue's Transformation.

The issue was that with just the return-style regulator in place the fuel pressure would pulse. And the pressure during the pulses was more than I think the carb would handle. You can see a video of the pulsing here: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Big-Blue-s-Transformation-tp28014p73671.html.

Gary that is good to know as we did talk a little about this and Kurt was thinking just 1 regulator with a return would work.

I bet he will read this and change his plans as needed.

What is your plans when you go to EFI? Not run the regulators as I don't think they would be needed?

Dave ----

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Just as an FYI, I'm running the EFI fuel delivery modules (FDM's) on Big Blue with a carb, an Edelbrock to be exact. And I can tell you that one fuel pressure regulator, even a return-style, isn't enough to tame the pressure. I had to double-head regulators, with a return-style first and a dead-head style second. You can see that in this post in Big Blue's Transformation.

The issue was that with just the return-style regulator in place the fuel pressure would pulse. And the pressure during the pulses was more than I think the carb would handle. You can see a video of the pulsing here: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Big-Blue-s-Transformation-tp28014p73671.html.

Gary that is good to know as we did talk a little about this and Kurt was thinking just 1 regulator with a return would work.

I bet he will read this and change his plans as needed.

What is your plans when you go to EFI? Not run the regulators as I don't think they would be needed?

Dave ----

I do hope he will read it. And go watch the videos. But two regulators tamed it and I have several thousand problem-free miles on that setup.

As for EFI, my plans are to install that this winter. And I designed the regulator setup to plug directly into the supply and return lines, so those lines will unplug from the regulators and plug directly into the EFI fuel rails.

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I do hope he will read it. And go watch the videos. But two regulators tamed it and I have several thousand problem-free miles on that setup.

As for EFI, my plans are to install that this winter. And I designed the regulator setup to plug directly into the supply and return lines, so those lines will unplug from the regulators and plug directly into the EFI fuel rails.

That is the same thing he is looking to do.

If you did not post that he is reading your mind :nabble_anim_crazy:

Dave ----

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I do hope he will read it. And go watch the videos. But two regulators tamed it and I have several thousand problem-free miles on that setup.

As for EFI, my plans are to install that this winter. And I designed the regulator setup to plug directly into the supply and return lines, so those lines will unplug from the regulators and plug directly into the EFI fuel rails.

That is the same thing he is looking to do.

If you did not post that he is reading your mind :nabble_anim_crazy:

Dave ----

Starting up a new lash-up with a carb is good as it simplifies things. Then you know the fuel system works and the engine runs, so you can move on to EFI and know that if you have problems it is with the latter. (Or, you just get tired of working on the truck and want to drive it so you slap a carb on and go. :nabble_smiley_evil:)

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