'95 FDM for your '85 gauge

[Tarheel Blue]

There are tons of threads on lots of forums that discuss the process of doing various modifications to our trucks that have always interested me like;

adding a larger aft tank and/ or converting to EFI.

I'm not here to comment on the various methods discussed or the quality of the way that each individual thinks it should be accomplished. You decide for yourself, just as I did.

What this thread is about is the overall concern in each of those methods that drives folks to take one path or another.

The later model senders aren't compatible with the Bullnose gauges. While I applaud Gary and others for the Aurdino solution, it just didn't fall into what I wanted to do, so I decided to try and find a different way.

I started buy purchasing the INDIVIDUAL components,

* Hanger - Top plate with the tubes and wire connector that the tank lock ring holds in place

* Bosch 67000 FDM

* Bronco sender for the 33 gal tank

I assembled them and did a mock up of how it set in the tank in order to see float travel and to compare it to the NOS '85 hanger and sender that I had purchased years ago.

Sorry that I didn't take any pics in the process but it became obvious to me that all that needed to be done was to find a way to attach the sender from the '85 unit to the '95 bracket. The plastic body that the float arm attaches to is IDENTICAL to both senders. It is only the board inside that is different.

So, after turning the plate around that the '95 sender attaches to and cutting a small rectangular slot to accommodate the legs on the '85 sender, the plate was then reattached to the hanger assembly. I checked the travel of the float, had to make a couple of small tweaks to the "angle of the dangle" on the float rod, but all looks good to me!

This now allows me to have an new in-tank, high pressure pump AND a functional gauge in my dash.

Next step is to wire it into the harness on the truck and see what happens.

 

 

[Gary Lewis]

I like it! And I seriously considered that approach myself. I had all of the parts laying on the bench, and the only thing that stopped me was the realization that when something in it fails after I'm no longer able to make the repair my offspring would have problems. Had they been the type that would take it in stride I've have done it, but as they aren't I didn't.

As for the Arduino solution, I've not done that - yet. Instead I used a Meter Match to interface the later sender to the Bullnose gauge. And I'm here to tell you that the Meter Match works, but isn't ideal. My gauge falls rapidly and then slows down as you get close to empty. It isn't ideal at all, but it works.

Your solution should give much better readout and will be something that can be repaired down the road. So I really like it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I like it! And I seriously considered that approach myself. I had all of the parts laying on the bench, and the only thing that stopped me was the realization that when something in it fails after I'm no longer able to make the repair my offspring would have problems. Had they been the type that would take it in stride I've have done it, but as they aren't I didn't.

As for the Arduino solution, I've not done that - yet. Instead I used a Meter Match to interface the later sender to the Bullnose gauge. And I'm here to tell you that the Meter Match works, but isn't ideal. My gauge falls rapidly and then slows down as you get close to empty. It isn't ideal at all, but it works.

Your solution should give much better readout and will be something that can be repaired down the road. So I really like it.

Gary, there are two intermediate set points available in the Meter Match programming.

If you want it to accuractly reflect available fuel perhaps you should run the tank dry then add a gallon and set empty.

Add six gallons and set 1/3, add another six set 2/3, and the final six gallons would have you at full.

I know you're up to the challenge!

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, there are two intermediate set points available in the Meter Match programming.

If you want it to accuractly reflect available fuel perhaps you should run the tank dry then add a gallon and set empty.

Add six gallons and set 1/3, add another six set 2/3, and the final six gallons would have you at full.

I know you're up to the challenge!

Jim - Have you done that? I used one of the intermediate set points and it didn't help. Maybe I need to try your approach?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - Have you done that? I used one of the intermediate set points and it didn't help. Maybe I need to try your approach?

Actually I've lost both my fuel gauge and water temp (both bottom gauges)

These Bricknose gauges are paired top and bottom, so it's not that I can change them individually.

I've reached a point where I can't really do anything more with this truck.

Even diagnosing and cleaning out the carb was WAY more challenging than it should have been.

Just that I know there were instructions for setting mid-points, not that I was able to accomplish it.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Actually I've lost both my fuel gauge and water temp (both bottom gauges)

These Bricknose gauges are paired top and bottom, so it's not that I can change them individually.

I've reached a point where I can't really do anything more with this truck.

Even diagnosing and cleaning out the carb was WAY more challenging than it should have been.

Just that I know there were instructions for setting mid-points, not that I was able to accomplish it.

Ok, thanks. I may play with it more.

[ratdude747]

And I'm here to tell you that the Meter Match works, but isn't ideal. My gauge falls rapidly and then slows down as you get close to empty. It isn't ideal at all, but it works.

Your solution should give much better readout and will be something that can be repaired down the road. So I really like it.

Maybe not. My Fuel gauge also drops fast to 1/4, hangs in that range for a very, very long time, then when it hits E you better fill up fast (as below E, you tend to run out of gas in drive thru lines ). Sounds like with meter match you got a realistic experience if not an ideal one .

[Gary Lewis]

And I'm here to tell you that the Meter Match works, but isn't ideal. My gauge falls rapidly and then slows down as you get close to empty. It isn't ideal at all, but it works.

Your solution should give much better readout and will be something that can be repaired down the road. So I really like it.

Maybe not. My Fuel gauge also drops fast to 1/4, hangs in that range for a very, very long time, then when it hits E you better fill up fast (as below E, you tend to run out of gas in drive thru lines ). Sounds like with meter match you got a realistic experience if not an ideal one .

With my Meter Match you'll be so close to E by 100 miles that a quick glance says it is time to switch to the other tank. But on closer inspection there is still a bit of white showing. And if you are on the highway it'll go another 90 miles as the tank holds 19 gallons and it gets 10+ MPG. So if you like driving on E for ~50% of your miles then it is ideal.

That's not my idea of a realistic experience.

[Tarheel Blue]

I like it! And I seriously considered that approach myself. I had all of the parts laying on the bench, and the only thing that stopped me was the realization that when something in it fails after I'm no longer able to make the repair my offspring would have problems. Had they been the type that would take it in stride I've have done it, but as they aren't I didn't.

As for the Arduino solution, I've not done that - yet. Instead I used a Meter Match to interface the later sender to the Bullnose gauge. And I'm here to tell you that the Meter Match works, but isn't ideal. My gauge falls rapidly and then slows down as you get close to empty. It isn't ideal at all, but it works.

Your solution should give much better readout and will be something that can be repaired down the road. So I really like it.

Thanks Gary

I had read lots of comments about the various times that gauges will stay on full for miles and then start to rapidly cascade towards empty.

Keeping that in mind led me to numerous tweets of the float rod in order to have a smooth progression from 73 ohms to 8 ohms

I like the fact that all parts are “off the shelf”, just not necessarily the same year

 

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks Gary

I had read lots of comments about the various times that gauges will stay on full for miles and then start to rapidly cascade towards empty.

Keeping that in mind led me to numerous tweets of the float rod in order to have a smooth progression from 73 ohms to 8 ohms

I like the fact that all parts are “off the shelf”, just not necessarily the same year

I hope you achieve that smooth progression. But IIRC, Ford says that 22 ohms should give a center reading on the gauges. IOW, the 10 to 72 ohms apparently isn't linear.