Considering Reservoirs

[1986F150Six]

Besides, those are $75 + shipping and Parts Geek has the later one for $33 + shipping. And Amazon has the later one as NOS for $63 and a Dorman one for $35.80, both with free shipping.

 

Dave - Crazy? Me? Mike said he could tell who was driving as Rick drove a lot faster than I did. My retort was "Yes! It is my truck!" But seriously, even aired down and going slow it was rough.

 

As far as being sealed between the two sides, not up through 1990 which is the one I have from Huck and is probably the same up through '97 as the part number suggests. It appears to be sealed everywhere but there. I don't understand why that is since the caps don't really seal so there's plenty of a "controlled leak" there to let the reservoirs vent.

 

I'm thinking of two slightly different approaches and want everyone's input:

 

2. Order in the Dorman one for $36 and that way I should have better plastic. And I won't spend time trying to clean up the badly weathered and stained one from Huck. Then run the Permatex in to seal between the two sides. But, I'm a bit worried that the Dorman one won't be sealed like the one from Huck is. And that release agents will keep the Permatex from adhering to the new plastic. Maybe clean it with alcohol?

 

Thoughts?

This is more expensive... is this the correct one?https://www.ebay.com/itm/251597679826?epid=1429926212&hash=item3a9463ecd2:g:zJkAAOSwxCxT0S75

[1986F150Six]

Besides, those are $75 + shipping and Parts Geek has the later one for $33 + shipping. And Amazon has the later one as NOS for $63 and a Dorman one for $35.80, both with free shipping.

 

Dave - Crazy? Me? Mike said he could tell who was driving as Rick drove a lot faster than I did. My retort was "Yes! It is my truck!" But seriously, even aired down and going slow it was rough.

 

As far as being sealed between the two sides, not up through 1990 which is the one I have from Huck and is probably the same up through '97 as the part number suggests. It appears to be sealed everywhere but there. I don't understand why that is since the caps don't really seal so there's plenty of a "controlled leak" there to let the reservoirs vent.

 

I'm thinking of two slightly different approaches and want everyone's input:

 

2. Order in the Dorman one for $36 and that way I should have better plastic. And I won't spend time trying to clean up the badly weathered and stained one from Huck. Then run the Permatex in to seal between the two sides. But, I'm a bit worried that the Dorman one won't be sealed like the one from Huck is. And that release agents will keep the Permatex from adhering to the new plastic. Maybe clean it with alcohol?

 

Thoughts?

This is more expensive... is this the correct one?https://www.ebay.com/itm/251597679826?epid=1429926212&hash=item3a9463ecd2:g:zJkAAOSwxCxT0S75

Another one:https://www.ebay.com/itm/144205847016?epid=1429926212&hash=item21935699e8:g:uHkAAOSwYRJhRMWS

[Gary Lewis]

Besides, those are $75 + shipping and Parts Geek has the later one for $33 + shipping. And Amazon has the later one as NOS for $63 and a Dorman one for $35.80, both with free shipping.

 

Dave - Crazy? Me? Mike said he could tell who was driving as Rick drove a lot faster than I did. My retort was "Yes! It is my truck!" But seriously, even aired down and going slow it was rough.

 

As far as being sealed between the two sides, not up through 1990 which is the one I have from Huck and is probably the same up through '97 as the part number suggests. It appears to be sealed everywhere but there. I don't understand why that is since the caps don't really seal so there's plenty of a "controlled leak" there to let the reservoirs vent.

 

I'm thinking of two slightly different approaches and want everyone's input:

 

2. Order in the Dorman one for $36 and that way I should have better plastic. And I won't spend time trying to clean up the badly weathered and stained one from Huck. Then run the Permatex in to seal between the two sides. But, I'm a bit worried that the Dorman one won't be sealed like the one from Huck is. And that release agents will keep the Permatex from adhering to the new plastic. Maybe clean it with alcohol?

 

Thoughts?

This is more expensive... is this the correct one?https://www.ebay.com/itm/251597679826?epid=1429926212&hash=item3a9463ecd2:g:zJkAAOSwxCxT0S75

Yes, that appears to be the correct one. But I ordered a Dorman replacement for about half that via Amazon, which also has that NOS one for the same price - and free shipping as well. But thanks!

[Gary Lewis]

Another one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144205847016?epid=1429926212&hash=item21935699e8:g:uHkAAOSwYRJhRMWS

Yep, that's the one as well. Nice find, David. But I have the Dorman coming. Hope it is well sealed.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yep, that's the one as well. Nice find, David. But I have the Dorman coming. Hope it is well sealed.

I'm sure it will be, by the time you get done with it! 😉

How do you have to mod the tabs to get it to fit into Big Blue?

[Gary Lewis]

I'm sure it will be, by the time you get done with it! 😉

How do you have to mod the tabs to get it to fit into Big Blue?

I'm not going to mod the tabs of the reservoir. Instead I'll make a new bracket which will look a lot like the one below, which is the one I made last January and took out yesterday. But the main difference will be the width between the uprights as the later reservoir's tabs are ~1" farther apart.

And here's a pic with the bracket installed, on the left, and then with the smaller Bullnose reservoir in place on the bracket.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm not going to mod the tabs of the reservoir. Instead I'll make a new bracket which will look a lot like the one below, which is the one I made last January and took out yesterday. But the main difference will be the width between the uprights as the later reservoir's tabs are ~1" farther apart.

And here's a pic with the bracket installed, on the left, and then with the smaller Bullnose reservoir in place on the bracket.

Ah! I recall you saying the tabs were too long, but I didn't realize you were making a new bracket to fit.

.... carry on.

[Gary Lewis]

Ah! I recall you saying the tabs were too long, but I didn't realize you were making a new bracket to fit.

.... carry on.

I much prefer to leave the things I'm adding to the truck in their stock state so I, or my offspring, can replace it at some point w/o having to modify it. So I'll make the bracket to accept the reservoir rather than the reservoir to fit the bracket.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I much prefer to leave the things I'm adding to the truck in their stock state so I, or my offspring, can replace it at some point w/o having to modify it. So I'll make the bracket to accept the reservoir rather than the reservoir to fit the bracket.

:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig::nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

[Gary Lewis]

:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig::nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

I'm sure you think Big Blue is a mess of modified components. But most of the "consumables", like alternators, reservoirs, radiators, brake shoes & pads, etc are off the shelf. IOW, I can order a new one in, assuming I know what the application is, and install it w/o modification. But the sixty-four-thousand-dollar question will be "What is the application?"

It just occurred to me that the 3-ring binder I have under the seat with the owner's manuals for the various accessories, like the brake controller, GMRS radio, etc would be a good place to keep a list of "applications". Like:

Front axle, brakes, and driveshaft: D60 from a '95 F350

Front suspension:

Springs: 2005 Superduty U-code

Shocks:

Aternator: 3G from a???? (What did it come from, Jim?

Drive belts:

I have a start on that in the document at the top of Big Blue's Transformation thread, but need to get more specific with it.