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Yep.

For now, we have a plan... I need to get some POR 15...

I really like POR15. But, I am never able to get complete coverage with one coat. So I would plan on two coats, and the 2nd needs to go on before the first dries.

The stuff self-levels so you can slop it on and it'll smooth out. But if you are slopping be careful as it does NOT come off of skin for a week to 10 days. I'd wear long sleeves and plastic gloves. Been there, done that, and had the paint to show it. In fact, my boots still have POR15 on them, and it isn't about to come off.

And it eats some types of plastic, including foam brushes and styrofoam cups. I've started using the blue paint cups from the hardware store to pour it into, and cheap Nylon brushes.

Use a proper opener to open the can as you do not want to damage the can. And when you put the lid back on use wax paper or saran wrap between the lid and the can or the lid will never come off again.

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I really like POR15. But, I am never able to get complete coverage with one coat. So I would plan on two coats, and the 2nd needs to go on before the first dries.

The stuff self-levels so you can slop it on and it'll smooth out. But if you are slopping be careful as it does NOT come off of skin for a week to 10 days. I'd wear long sleeves and plastic gloves. Been there, done that, and had the paint to show it. In fact, my boots still have POR15 on them, and it isn't about to come off.

And it eats some types of plastic, including foam brushes and styrofoam cups. I've started using the blue paint cups from the hardware store to pour it into, and cheap Nylon brushes.

Use a proper opener to open the can as you do not want to damage the can. And when you put the lid back on use wax paper or saran wrap between the lid and the can or the lid will never come off again.

Having my wife Amazon some chassis saver instead... from what I read, more or less the same thing only a bit cheaper and better UV performance (cosmetic loss, but will still protect things).

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Having my wife Amazon some chassis saver instead... from what I read, more or less the same thing only a bit cheaper and better UV performance (cosmetic loss, but will still protect things).

I just checked on Amazon for "chassis saver" and got a zillion results. But the basic Chassis Saver does appear to be very similar, if not the same, as POR15. And that should work very nicely.

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  • 4 weeks later...

That's the stuff... But I got a quart for 40 bux or so.

Applied the Chassis Saver Tonight:

IMG_20210914_1905031.thumb.jpg.00ece2bc26bd5497abd2ee57bd09e407.jpg

Not a pretty application... doesn't help that my neighbor fired up the riding mower and did his lawn as soon as I started painting :nabble_smiley_argh:. But for covering all the really pitted and nasty areas before installing the bedliner, it will do. I'll drop it in tomorrow once the chassis saver has had enough time to cure (enough to cover up with a liner, that is).

To secure the bedliner to the bed, I bought six rubber wedge style stake pocket chrome anchors from LMC (Which the $50 gift card I won at the show paid for :nabble_smiley_good:)... they're in the mail. Should be a good setup. Now to determine what the best way to patch holes in ABS plastic is... putty epoxy?

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Applied the Chassis Saver Tonight:

Not a pretty application... doesn't help that my neighbor fired up the riding mower and did his lawn as soon as I started painting :nabble_smiley_argh:. But for covering all the really pitted and nasty areas before installing the bedliner, it will do. I'll drop it in tomorrow once the chassis saver has had enough time to cure (enough to cover up with a liner, that is).

To secure the bedliner to the bed, I bought six rubber wedge style stake pocket chrome anchors from LMC (Which the $50 gift card I won at the show paid for :nabble_smiley_good:)... they're in the mail. Should be a good setup. Now to determine what the best way to patch holes in ABS plastic is... putty epoxy?

Larry - When covered with the bedliner you won't need the paint job to be pretty. But it should keep the bed from rusting more. Well done!

As for patching, I don't think the drop-in bed liner is ABS. I'm not a materials kind of guy, and Jim can correct me, but I think of ABS as being hard and stiff, which doesn't describe that bedliner.

But I don't know what the bedliner is made of so don't have a good recommendation for how to fill the holes. I'll tag Jim, who will probably have a good idea.

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Larry - When covered with the bedliner you won't need the paint job to be pretty. But it should keep the bed from rusting more. Well done!

As for patching, I don't think the drop-in bed liner is ABS. I'm not a materials kind of guy, and Jim can correct me, but I think of ABS as being hard and stiff, which doesn't describe that bedliner.

But I don't know what the bedliner is made of so don't have a good recommendation for how to fill the holes. I'll tag Jim, who will probably have a good idea.

And here I am! :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:

I can only say that my drop-in bed-liner is polypropylene.

This is very difficult to get anything to adhere to.

I would suggest the West System G/flex 655, and follow the directions for plastic prep which include a wipe with alcohol and a quick pass from a propane torch to oxidize the surface.

Put a piece of duct tape or something to keep it from creating a problem non the back side.

This should hold well.

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And here I am! :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:

I can only say that my drop-in bed-liner is polypropylene.

This is very difficult to get anything to adhere to.

I would suggest the West System G/flex 655, and follow the directions for plastic prep which include a wipe with alcohol and a quick pass from a propane torch to oxidize the surface.

Put a piece of duct tape or something to keep it from creating a problem non the back side.

This should hold well.

Thanks, Jim! That's a big help. :nabble_anim_handshake:

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Thanks, Jim! That's a big help. :nabble_anim_handshake:

Sure thing!

Adhesive and composite chemistry is one of the things I geek out on.

You'll see there are some links on that page for technical data and surface prep.

With wiping and flame treatment you're going to get almost six times the adhesion you would with just sanding the surface. (400->2312 psi, on HDPE)

This is the only adhesive/filler I've ever found able to create a lasting bond on these waxy types of plastic because their surface is so chemically inert.

 

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