Fuel Line Fitting: Hairpin or Duck Bill Clip? (’85 F-150 EFI 5l dual tanks)

[Nemesis F150]

The fuel line Push-Connect fittings that use clips are one of two types, the Hairpin and the Duck Bill. The ones in the picture look like they would be the Hairpin type, but I'm not sure.

Since new clips will have to be used I would like to buy them ahead of time.

Question #1: Is that what these look like, Hairpin clips?

Question #2: Is this the High Pressure Fuel Pump?

Reason for asking, there doesn’t look like there is any room for the pump; only for, maybe, check valve. Also, don’t see a conductor going to it. However, it is in the location where the High Pressure pump should be, left frame rail under the drivers seat.

There were several changes during this model year, such as for fuel filter locations, so would like to know what it is and what to call it.

[Edit: Just thought of one more question]

Question #3: Anyone know of a "plug" that can be used on the disconnected fuel lines while things are being worked on? Or if such a thing even exists?

-= John =-

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's just the filter housing.

You need to look for a separate inline fuel pump farther forward on the driver's side rail.

This is the Motorcraft PF4:

I have never heard duckbill or hairpin.

The same clips were used from '83 through 2004, and are available aftermarket from Dorman/HELP!.

They come both 3/8. (55147) and 5/16" (800-003)

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-8559-800-003.aspx?origin=keyword

 

[Nemesis F150]

That's just the filter housing.

You need to look for a separate inline fuel pump farther forward on the driver's side rail.

This is the Motorcraft PF4:

I have never heard duckbill or hairpin.

The same clips were used from '83 through 2004, and are available aftermarket from Dorman/HELP!.

They come both 3/8. (55147) and 5/16" (800-003)

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-8559-800-003.aspx?origin=keyword

Jim - thanks for the info on the clips and the url. Since they've been made for many years they should be easy to find. The url indicated there are several places locally that cary their products.

I went back and made a correction on a previous drawing so I hope this is okay.

Next step is to verify the pump location.

This is all a part of getting ready to remove the fuel tanks.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - thanks for the info on the clips and the url. Since they've been made for many years they should be easy to find. The url indicated there are several places locally that cary their products.

I went back and made a correction on a previous drawing so I hope this is okay.

Next step is to verify the pump location.

This is all a part of getting ready to remove the fuel tanks.

I just want to point out that the feed and return lines on my truck are different sizes.

This is why I show both the 3/8 and 5/16 part numbers.

I'm not aware of any plug.

If the lines haven't turned to mush from ethanol you can use hemostats to clamp the nylon lines.

[Nemesis F150]

I just want to point out that the feed and return lines on my truck are different sizes.

This is why I show both the 3/8 and 5/16 part numbers.

Excellent reminder!

I remember reading about the different sizes for the supply & return but forgot about that.

There is soooo much to remember, and, the devil is in the details. Sometimes little ones!

I'm not aware of any plug.

If the lines haven't turned to mush from ethanol you can use hemostats to clamp the nylon lines.

"... turned to mush..."? Doesn't sound good. Started using non-ethanol fuel only about four years ago, there is a station nearby that sells it, also using it in the yard equipment (which is mostly old), and the outboard motor. For the few miles I've been driving the 150 it didn't amount to that much cost. But, the part about the fuel lines turning to mush is a bummer.

Learning something new here all the time!!!

Will have to look up about the hemostats.

[Edit: I have a pair of Vice Grip clamps that could be used but they are somewhat heavy. Would use something to cushion the force on the fuel line to avoid damage, especially if the lines are soft. Also have some small C-clamps, (along with cushioning for them, too). Come to think of it, have a few other types of clamps, some ratchet and some spring loaded. However, might be into buying something more automotive for this.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I just want to point out that the feed and return lines on my truck are different sizes.

This is why I show both the 3/8 and 5/16 part numbers.

Excellent reminder!

I remember reading about the different sizes for the supply & return but forgot about that.

There is soooo much to remember, and, the devil is in the details. Sometimes little ones!

I'm not aware of any plug.

If the lines haven't turned to mush from ethanol you can use hemostats to clamp the nylon lines.

"... turned to mush..."? Doesn't sound good. Started using non-ethanol fuel only about four years ago, there is a station nearby that sells it, also using it in the yard equipment (which is mostly old), and the outboard motor. For the few miles I've been driving the 150 it didn't amount to that much cost. But, the part about the fuel lines turning to mush is a bummer.

Learning something new here all the time!!!

Will have to look up about the hemostats.

[Edit: I have a pair of Vice Grip clamps that could be used but they are somewhat heavy. Would use something to cushion the force on the fuel line to avoid damage, especially if the lines are soft. Also have some small C-clamps, (along with cushioning for them, too). Come to think of it, have a few other types of clamps, some ratchet and some spring loaded. However, might be into buying something more automotive for this.

Dorman also makes repair kits with new line and these connectors on the end. (Both sizes, straight and 90°)

I don't have any personal experience but Gary has used them on his trucks after finding that his fuel lines were leaking.

Perhaps he can weigh in on that experience or drop a link to where he has it documented.

[Nemesis F150]

Dorman also makes repair kits with new line and these connectors on the end. (Both sizes, straight and 90°)

I don't have any personal experience but Gary has used them on his trucks after finding that his fuel lines were leaking.

Perhaps he can weigh in on that experience or drop a link to where he has it documented.

Leaking??? OMG!

Not good!

As long as this tread is on the subject of fuel lines, fuel filter (see diagram), and fuel pump (also in diagram), a big question is about the pressure in the lines between the tanks and, say, the fuel filter or fuel pump.

With the EFI system the fuel lines ae supposed to be pressurized, and in order to remove the tanks the lines will have to be disconnected. Given that there is a fuel pump inside each tank, that means the line going forward (toward the engine) will, or can (or whatever it is technically called), have pressure in it. However, when I've changed the fuel filter it hasn't been a problem, just unscrew and drop the can with the filter, pop a new filter on, then screw the can back up. Had a container to catch any spilled fuel but that was never a problem as there wasn't very much.

So, getting ready to remove the tanks:

If the filter is removed (see Edited diagram above), and with the battery disconnected, should one be able to safely disconnect the fuel line (that runs to the tank) where it attaches at the filter?

My understanding is that the tank pumps are not a high pressure type, so the pressurized line should then have only low pressure, and hopefully not squirt a lot of fuel at the connection joint.

I was thinking about starting a separate thread about this part but maybe it isn't necessary. Or is it?

At least for the tank aft of the rear axel, I know that it cannot be dropped without disconnecting and/or removal of the tank fuel pump assembly. The mid tank I haven't researched but assume would be similar.

The part about the fuel line being soft or mushy means that this is probably a good time to replace them. But, what an ordeal! But if not now, then the tanks would have to be dropped again, or the bed removed.

[Nemesis F150]

Dorman also makes repair kits with new line and these connectors on the end. (Both sizes, straight and 90°)

VERY GOOD to know. I was wondering about how to make these up.

Would probably have to remove the lines in one piece to determine the exact length.

This might be easier than I thought.

Note that the lines have a foam cover on them so that would have to be put on prior to the connectors, (unless it is split). Hopefully that would be an option they can do.

The good part is that with new connectors the connection has a greater chance of being leak-free.

[Edit: Did I say that there is so much good information here!!!?]

[ArdWrknTrk]

Dorman also makes repair kits with new line and these connectors on the end. (Both sizes, straight and 90°)

VERY GOOD to know. I was wondering about how to make these up.

Would probably have to remove the lines in one piece to determine the exact length.

This might be easier than I thought.

Note that the lines have a foam cover on them so that would have to be put on prior to the connectors, (unless it is split). Hopefully that would be an option they can do.

The good part is that with new connectors the connection has a greater chance of being leak-free.

[Edit: Did I say that there is so much good information here!!!?]

There are O-rings you will see when you disconnect the lines. They are the primary seal and you probably want to replace them.

I'm going to tag Gary in this conversation, so perhaps he can add his experience with making up these lines.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Leaking??? OMG!

Not good!

As long as this tread is on the subject of fuel lines, fuel filter (see diagram), and fuel pump (also in diagram), a big question is about the pressure in the lines between the tanks and, say, the fuel filter or fuel pump.

With the EFI system the fuel lines ae supposed to be pressurized, and in order to remove the tanks the lines will have to be disconnected. Given that there is a fuel pump inside each tank, that means the line going forward (toward the engine) will, or can (or whatever it is technically called), have pressure in it. However, when I've changed the fuel filter it hasn't been a problem, just unscrew and drop the can with the filter, pop a new filter on, then screw the can back up. Had a container to catch any spilled fuel but that was never a problem as there wasn't very much.

So, getting ready to remove the tanks:

If the filter is removed (see Edited diagram above), and with the battery disconnected, should one be able to safely disconnect the fuel line (that runs to the tank) where it attaches at the filter?

My understanding is that the tank pumps are not a high pressure type, so the pressurized line should then have only low pressure, and hopefully not squirt a lot of fuel at the connection joint.

I was thinking about starting a separate thread about this part but maybe it isn't necessary. Or is it?

At least for the tank aft of the rear axel, I know that it cannot be dropped without disconnecting and/or removal of the tank fuel pump assembly. The mid tank I haven't researched but assume would be similar.

The part about the fuel line being soft or mushy means that this is probably a good time to replace them. But, what an ordeal! But if not now, then the tanks would have to be dropped again, or the bed removed.

I didn't see this post.

You can depress the Schrader valve on the fuel rail to relieve the pressure.

Fluids don't compress so there shouldn't be much volume.

If you unclip the fuel lines from the back of the driver's side frame and the cross member in front of the rear tank, you should be able to drop it far enough to reach up and disconnect the feed and return from the tank bung.

(at least I have been able to whenever I've had to get the rear tank down)