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If torqued correctly, is there a need to insure against a nut working loose, say by using Loctite Blue (243), Loctite Red (262), or even use two nuts?

I used Stover lock nuts on all of my frame bolts, and I've replaced dozens and dozens of them rebuilding my 1980, and replacing spring hangers on my 1984. Grade 8 washers on both sides, and then the Stover locks installed with an impact (they're a pain to do by hand) and I don't think they will work loose (in my opinion). They haven't worked lose on anything that I've used them on.

If you wanted double insurance, use Stover locks annnd Loctite, ha!

PS: Stover style lock nuts are pretty common in Automotive. I know I run across them all the time, even on the old trucks. They lose some of their bite if you re-use them, but I prefer them over Nylocks.

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If torqued correctly, is there a need to insure against a nut working loose, say by using Loctite Blue (243), Loctite Red (262), or even use two nuts?

I used Stover lock nuts on all of my frame bolts, and I've replaced dozens and dozens of them rebuilding my 1980, and replacing spring hangers on my 1984. Grade 8 washers on both sides, and then the Stover locks installed with an impact (they're a pain to do by hand) and I don't think they will work loose (in my opinion). They haven't worked lose on anything that I've used them on.

If you wanted double insurance, use Stover locks annnd Loctite, ha!

PS: Stover style lock nuts are pretty common in Automotive. I know I run across them all the time, even on the old trucks. They lose some of their bite if you re-use them, but I prefer them over Nylocks.

I've never heard the term Stover Locks but am quite familiar with distorted thread prevailing torque lock nuts.

I learned something. Thanks for that, Cory!

Definitely miles ahead of one time use Nyloc nuts and much more secure.

I like the fact that you can get them flanged as well.

Far better than a separate washer.

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I've never heard the term Stover Locks but am quite familiar with distorted thread prevailing torque lock nuts.

I learned something. Thanks for that, Cory!

Definitely miles ahead of one time use Nyloc nuts and much more secure.

I like the fact that you can get them flanged as well.

Far better than a separate washer.

I'd not heard of Stover lock nuts either. But Albany County Fasteners says:

Prevailing Torque Lock Nuts, commonly known as stover hex lock nuts or toplock nuts, is a type of distorted thread nut with distorted threading being on the nut's conical end. For this reason, they are considered one-way nuts as the nut can only be started on one end of the threading. It's also why they are called "toplock" or "top lock" nuts.

The nut's distorted threading gets stretched as the fastener is inserted into it, causing friction between the nut and fastener and creating the locking action. The elastic nature of the deformation of top lock stover nuts means they can be reused indefinitely. They are often preferred over nylon insert lock nuts because, being all-metal, they are not subject to the temperature and chemical limitations of nylon inserts.

Learn something every day. :nabble_smiley_good:

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I've never heard the term Stover Locks but am quite familiar with distorted thread prevailing torque lock nuts.

I learned something. Thanks for that, Cory!

Definitely miles ahead of one time use Nyloc nuts and much more secure.

I like the fact that you can get them flanged as well.

Far better than a separate washer.

I use them all the time, and maybe I latched on to the "Stover" term because that is what the local industrial fastener shop calls them, I don't know. In any case, I use them on everything...like shock bolts, or anything really that I don't want to come apart. They're almost like cross-threading a nut on haha.

I keep a few different sizes on hand for various uses, but I definitely used them on every single frame bolt I installed (when replacing rivets).

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