Farm Truck project kicks off with a driveshaft question

[Gary Lewis]

We pulled this pedal box at the junkyard today. It's the last manual tranny Bricky in the yard. Got it home and cleaned it up for install (Farm Truck is going from C6 to ZF5). Alas, we found a crack. To my eye it's structural.

What do y'all think? I'm not inclined to install it with that crack in it.

We do have TIG capability, if we bought the right gas, but we haven't done TIG yet so there would be a learning curve. However we do have a great welding shop nearby where we could take it.

Or, could it simply be JB Welded on both sides? That I doubt, but thought I'd mention it.

Pics:

Yes, that looks to be structural, and JB Weld isn't going to hold it. I think I'd buy the bottle and learn to TIG, but maybe start on something different?

On the other hand, that is a casting and maybe cast aluminum welds differently, just like cast iron does. Maybe it is time to take it to a pro?

[RenoHuskerDu]

Yes, that looks to be structural, and JB Weld isn't going to hold it. I think I'd buy the bottle and learn to TIG, but maybe start on something different?

On the other hand, that is a casting and maybe cast aluminum welds differently, just like cast iron does. Maybe it is time to take it to a pro?

In the oven for a good hot preheat, wrap it to keep it hot while welding, then back in the oven after the welding. But my wife would certainly not want that in her oven.

Unless someone here jumps in with a BTDT story, I'm taking it in to the pro Monday morning.

[grumpin]

In the oven for a good hot preheat, wrap it to keep it hot while welding, then back in the oven after the welding. But my wife would certainly not want that in her oven.

Unless someone here jumps in with a BTDT story, I'm taking it in to the pro Monday morning.

I agree, I’d let a pro weld it.

[Gary Lewis]

I agree, I’d let a pro weld it.

Agreed. Unless done correctly that thing may crack more.

But, maybe I have the right box in the attic? It will be from Huck, the 1990 half-truck, which had an auto. And I'd bet the later boxes are like the Bullnose boxes - the manual boxes had a bit more to them for the spring. Right?

[RenoHuskerDu]

Agreed. Unless done correctly that thing may crack more.

But, maybe I have the right box in the attic? It will be from Huck, the 1990 half-truck, which had an auto. And I'd bet the later boxes are like the Bullnose boxes - the manual boxes had a bit more to them for the spring. Right?

Yep the manual boxes are a bit wider for that spring and a switch on the clutch for cruise.

But thank you. We do have a spare auto pedal box on hand now.

[ratdude747]

Yes, that looks to be structural, and JB Weld isn't going to hold it. I think I'd buy the bottle and learn to TIG, but maybe start on something different?

On the other hand, that is a casting and maybe cast aluminum welds differently, just like cast iron does. Maybe it is time to take it to a pro?

Cast Aluminum is a crap shoot when it comes to welding. Sometimes it welds OK, sometimes it's not at all weldable. 1st step is getting some good crack detect spray and fiding the actual ends of the crack and drilling them. The v-groove and weld. Lots of trash will come up... very dirty process, even when well cleaned and TIG'd. Just the nature of castings.

Cast iron's issue is partially these... but the main issue it has that cast aluminum doesn't is a lack of elongation... hence why nickel rods and preheat is common, and why often brazing is a better solution than welding.

[RenoHuskerDu]

Cast Aluminum is a crap shoot when it comes to welding. Sometimes it welds OK, sometimes it's not at all weldable. 1st step is getting some good crack detect spray and fiding the actual ends of the crack and drilling them. The v-groove and weld. Lots of trash will come up... very dirty process, even when well cleaned and TIG'd. Just the nature of castings.

Cast iron's issue is partially these... but the main issue it has that cast aluminum doesn't is a lack of elongation... hence why nickel rods and preheat is common, and why often brazing is a better solution than welding.

My welding shop called back. They hit it with an aluminum TIG rod as a test and the metal just melted, giving off a white smoke. It's not aluminum.

This morning he'll have a zinc rod delivered and give that a try.

Zinc is the primary metal in what's called Pot Metal link.

Another Ford "better idea" I guess. Anybody else remember that Ford jingle?

Yet on balance, I'd rather drive Fords than other trucks.

So we do.

[ArdWrknTrk]

My welding shop called back. They hit it with an aluminum TIG rod as a test and the metal just melted, giving off a white smoke. It's not aluminum.

This morning he'll have a zinc rod delivered and give that a try.

Zinc is the primary metal in what's called Pot Metal link.

Another Ford "better idea" I guess. Anybody else remember that Ford jingle?

Yet on balance, I'd rather drive Fords than other trucks.

So we do.

I'm fairly certain there's a good amount of magnesium in the mix too.

I've never heard of anyone welding one of these.

Maybe silver brazing, or one of those 'Alumiweld" sticks meant for pot metal?

A pro would know better than me.

[RenoHuskerDu]

I'm fairly certain there's a good amount of magnesium in the mix too.

I've never heard of anyone welding one of these.

Maybe silver brazing, or one of those 'Alumiweld" sticks meant for pot metal?

A pro would know better than me.

The welder was able to patch it up with a special zinc TIG rod. He said he's been welding all his life and rarely seen anything so difficult.

Now my question is, should I take the time to fiberglass and reinforce the crappy thin Furd pedal box? This is clearly one area where Bullys are better. The Bullnose flexing firewall issue is easier to remedy.

As a side note, I called Flaming River and asked about their extra strong super duper steering columns. What a poor attitude the guy had. I gather that the only shaft they offer for us is their universal, with heavy mods required to fit it. Ford pickups are not their market apparently.

The red arrow shows the weld, the green arrows are where I'd lay in some fiberglass. What do you think?

[RenoHuskerDu]

The welder was able to patch it up with a special zinc TIG rod. He said he's been welding all his life and rarely seen anything so difficult.

Now my question is, should I take the time to fiberglass and reinforce the crappy thin Furd pedal box? This is clearly one area where Bullys are better. The Bullnose flexing firewall issue is easier to remedy.

As a side note, I called Flaming River and asked about their extra strong super duper steering columns. What a poor attitude the guy had. I gather that the only shaft they offer for us is their universal, with heavy mods required to fit it. Ford pickups are not their market apparently.

The red arrow shows the weld, the green arrows are where I'd lay in some fiberglass. What do you think?

We fiberglassed it last night. Turned out pretty well. Just needs a little trimming after it's fully cured. I found a few hits on the web, other forums, of guys griping about Ford pedal boxes cracking. Were I to go dare ask the dealer for this part, I imagine he would laugh as cruelly as Stalin when he enslaved Europe ...

All needed materials were at the local hardware store for $60, and we have 95% of it left over. I'd encourage all of you to think about using fiberglass to repair parts on our trucks.