Fuel Line Fix

[Bullnose Gator]

I need to replace the fuel line going to the fuel filter carb, but of course the part isn't available (e5tz-9c399-a). Can I cut the damaged part out use rubber hose/clamps to fix it or do I need to recreate it out of a metal line?

Also, the little piece that fell out when I took the filter off, I didn't see which way it was when it came out. Which end faces up/down, or does it matter?

[Gary Lewis]

On that filter, I don't know which way it is really supposed to go, but my guess is that it doesn't matter.

As for the line, you can use rubber hose. But it is a potential leak and, therefore, a fire hazard. So make sure to have good connections and run the hose where it won't chafe or get burned.

[Bullnose Gator]

On that filter, I don't know which way it is really supposed to go, but my guess is that it doesn't matter.

As for the line, you can use rubber hose. But it is a potential leak and, therefore, a fire hazard. So make sure to have good connections and run the hose where it won't chafe or get burned.

Since it's only a couple of inches above the manifold, will rubber hose hold up to the heat? What would it take for me to recreate a metal line if I wanted to avoid that possibility?

[Gary Lewis]

Since it's only a couple of inches above the manifold, will rubber hose hold up to the heat? What would it take for me to recreate a metal line if I wanted to avoid that possibility?

To make your own you'd need the line and the flaring tool. I'm not very familiar with doing that, but I think the guys are saying the nickel/copper line is the way to go as it bends and flares easily.

As for the hose, you could put something like Thermashield Wrap over it. I'm using that on my dip stick and fuel lines and it really works.

[Rusty_S85]

I need to replace the fuel line going to the fuel filter carb, but of course the part isn't available (e5tz-9c399-a). Can I cut the damaged part out use rubber hose/clamps to fix it or do I need to recreate it out of a metal line?

Also, the little piece that fell out when I took the filter off, I didn't see which way it was when it came out. Which end faces up/down, or does it matter?

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n101554/20210729_121726.jpg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n101554/20210729_121900.jpg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n101554/20210729_121907.jpg

Ive always seen the male cone facing towards the line to act as a parachute to catch debris. That is a sintered bronze filter.

As far as the line goes you could do a rubber hose and clamp but Id be wary of a leak point down the road. Its one thing to have a fuel leak back at the fuel tank or at the flex joint around the fuel pump than one ontop the engine dumping fuel over a hot engine vs straight to the ground. The prefered way would be sourcing bulk metal tubing and bending your own. You can buy a short piece of preflared tubing but you will most likely have to cut one end and flare it after you shape the line.

Nickel-copper line is easy to form by hand without bending tools, if you decide to go fancier you can go stainless steel but you have to make sure its annealed stainless steel otherwise it will be too hard and it wont bend easily nor will it flare easy.

[Bullnose Gator]

I need to replace the fuel line going to the fuel filter carb, but of course the part isn't available (e5tz-9c399-a). Can I cut the damaged part out use rubber hose/clamps to fix it or do I need to recreate it out of a metal line?

Also, the little piece that fell out when I took the filter off, I didn't see which way it was when it came out. Which end faces up/down, or does it matter?

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n101554/20210729_121726.jpg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n101554/20210729_121900.jpg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n101554/20210729_121907.jpg

Ive always seen the male cone facing towards the line to act as a parachute to catch debris. That is a sintered bronze filter.

As far as the line goes you could do a rubber hose and clamp but Id be wary of a leak point down the road. Its one thing to have a fuel leak back at the fuel tank or at the flex joint around the fuel pump than one ontop the engine dumping fuel over a hot engine vs straight to the ground. The prefered way would be sourcing bulk metal tubing and bending your own. You can buy a short piece of preflared tubing but you will most likely have to cut one end and flare it after you shape the line.

Nickel-copper line is easy to form by hand without bending tools, if you decide to go fancier you can go stainless steel but you have to make sure its annealed stainless steel otherwise it will be too hard and it wont bend easily nor will it flare easy.

Thanks. It looks like this combo would do the trick, but when I measure the current tube it looks to be 1/4 inch, not 3/16. Any concern there or is 3/16 the inside diameter?

https://www.amazon.com/Wostore-Double-Flaring-Copper-Aluminum/dp/B07T66MJG3/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=fuel+line+flare+tool&qid=1627581219&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PZYRH88/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2YMLXUJK3PLGA&psc=1

[Bullnose Gator]

Thanks. It looks like this combo would do the trick, but when I measure the current tube it looks to be 1/4 inch, not 3/16. Any concern there or is 3/16 the inside diameter?

https://www.amazon.com/Wostore-Double-Flaring-Copper-Aluminum/dp/B07T66MJG3/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=fuel+line+flare+tool&qid=1627581219&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PZYRH88/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2YMLXUJK3PLGA&psc=1

Actually, I think I do need the 1/4 in. I'm going to go with this one. Let me know if there's anything else I'm not thinking of.

https://www.amazon.com/4LIFETIMELINES-Copper-Nickel-Non-Magnetic-Stainless-Fittings/dp/B08ZQKC4KG/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&dd=IUnznF1dmW6wvTAaylnMjw%2C%2C&keywords=1%2F4+fuel+line+copper&qid=1627583111&refinements=p_90%3A8308921011&rnid=8308919011&sr=8-3

[Bullnose Gator]

Actually, I think I do need the 1/4 in. I'm going to go with this one. Let me know if there's anything else I'm not thinking of.

https://www.amazon.com/4LIFETIMELINES-Copper-Nickel-Non-Magnetic-Stainless-Fittings/dp/B08ZQKC4KG/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&dd=IUnznF1dmW6wvTAaylnMjw%2C%2C&keywords=1%2F4+fuel+line+copper&qid=1627583111&refinements=p_90%3A8308921011&rnid=8308919011&sr=8-3

The 1/4 in replacement line I got seems thinner than the original. Any idea exactly what the diameter of the original is? 5/16 or bigger? Can I use the 1/4 in or will that restrict the fuel flow into the carb too much?

[ratdude747]

The 1/4 in replacement line I got seems thinner than the original. Any idea exactly what the diameter of the original is? 5/16 or bigger? Can I use the 1/4 in or will that restrict the fuel flow into the carb too much?

I wouldn't go smaller personally... I'd think it wouldn't flare right.

I replaced my factory pump-to-carb line with some rubber 5/16 (I think) fuel line and a lawn tractor (clear plastic) filter. The carb side (if it's like the carter YFA on my 300) is 1/8 NPT (replace inline fiter with a brass barb) and they make barb fittings that work with flared connections (like on the pump). I partially did this to combat vapor lock (hope was the rubber would keep the fuel cooler when parked). If doing this, avoid glass bodied filters; mine cracked and I was lucky it didn't start a fire! Lawn tractor ones at least for me flow enough and being plastic, aren't nearly as fragile. Plus, the paper IMHO filters the fuel better than the screens in glass filters and you still get to see what junk is or isn't in there.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The 1/4 in replacement line I got seems thinner than the original. Any idea exactly what the diameter of the original is? 5/16 or bigger? Can I use the 1/4 in or will that restrict the fuel flow into the carb too much?

As you've found tubing is measured Outside Diameter while line and pipe are measured Inside Diameter.

(Hence brake LINE instead of tube)

I think -also- that is the case here, with your carburetor feed.

You might use the butt end of a drill bit to gauge the existing fuel pipe and get a tube with a comparable bore.