Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

SBF V-Belt to Serpentine Drive Swap - Questions


Recommended Posts

You have to change the water pump, but not the timing cover. Fan and clutch need to be from reverse rotation vehicle as well.

I used all of the left side components from a bricknose when I converted my '81 to serpentine, including the a/c compressor and hoses. The fuel pump is a tight fit, and I had to relieve the p/s bracket a bit to clear it. If you have electric fuel pump this isn't a worry. My 3G alternator bracket is from my '94 roller donor. Everything plays well together.

Thanks Myrl883,

You answered some questions that I had!

So I had some plans this morning that got screwed up, so I marched straight out to the junkyard as there were two Bricknoses there, both with 5.0's and factory AC. The one 1990 was bone stock original and still perfectly intact under the hood...the belt was even still on ot. The other, a 1988 had had the AC disabled at some point and a delete pulley/bracket was installed in place of the AC compressor.

Anyway, I was able to remove it all fairly quickly...I think it maybe took me 45 mins by the time I got it all loaded into my trusty wheelbarrow. The one major snag I ran into was the long 7/16" pivot bolt for the alternator was seized in the alternator and in the bracket, and badly too. I got it removed when I got home, and drilled the broken bolt out, but it was extremely unfun.

I grabbed the whole works, and will be returning some parts tomorrow.

IMG_5601.jpg.3693866fd13688b17dcda152816af0a1.jpg

So I grabbed the whole system off a 1990 Bricknose. One the way out, I grabbed the AC delete bracket/pulley from the 1988, only to find out when I got home that it wouldn't work on the 1990 assembly...they were different, buggers. Not a big deal really, I'm planning on installing AC anyway.

IMG_5602.jpg.9c07c388e00e1ccc647053ae3933832f.jpg

I was wondering how I was going to piece together several different years worth of AC parts to make the whole system work, and with the little bit of studying I have been doing, it looks like this isn't too bad.

Correct me if I am wrong, but I should be able to run a 1990 AC compressor, and the 1pc line that is available for it, along with my Bullnose era AC system. It looks like everything should play well together.

According to the aftermarket, the accumulators were the same from 1983-1993, and the condensers the same from 1980-1993, so the 1pc line for the 1990 AC compressor should work just fine. I'll just order a Bullnose evaporator and liquid hose (I have one now, removed from a 1986).

I should also be able to run a shorter serpentine belt since I have no smog pump? Do you know what size is required?

I'm going to get my parts all sand blasted and painted, and get ready to do this swap.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have to change the water pump, but not the timing cover. Fan and clutch need to be from reverse rotation vehicle as well.

I used all of the left side components from a bricknose when I converted my '81 to serpentine, including the a/c compressor and hoses. The fuel pump is a tight fit, and I had to relieve the p/s bracket a bit to clear it. If you have electric fuel pump this isn't a worry. My 3G alternator bracket is from my '94 roller donor. Everything plays well together.

Thanks Myrl883,

You answered some questions that I had!

So I had some plans this morning that got screwed up, so I marched straight out to the junkyard as there were two Bricknoses there, both with 5.0's and factory AC. The one 1990 was bone stock original and still perfectly intact under the hood...the belt was even still on ot. The other, a 1988 had had the AC disabled at some point and a delete pulley/bracket was installed in place of the AC compressor.

Anyway, I was able to remove it all fairly quickly...I think it maybe took me 45 mins by the time I got it all loaded into my trusty wheelbarrow. The one major snag I ran into was the long 7/16" pivot bolt for the alternator was seized in the alternator and in the bracket, and badly too. I got it removed when I got home, and drilled the broken bolt out, but it was extremely unfun.

I grabbed the whole works, and will be returning some parts tomorrow.

So I grabbed the whole system off a 1990 Bricknose. One the way out, I grabbed the AC delete bracket/pulley from the 1988, only to find out when I got home that it wouldn't work on the 1990 assembly...they were different, buggers. Not a big deal really, I'm planning on installing AC anyway.

I was wondering how I was going to piece together several different years worth of AC parts to make the whole system work, and with the little bit of studying I have been doing, it looks like this isn't too bad.

Correct me if I am wrong, but I should be able to run a 1990 AC compressor, and the 1pc line that is available for it, along with my Bullnose era AC system. It looks like everything should play well together.

According to the aftermarket, the accumulators were the same from 1983-1993, and the condensers the same from 1980-1993, so the 1pc line for the 1990 AC compressor should work just fine. I'll just order a Bullnose evaporator and liquid hose (I have one now, removed from a 1986).

I should also be able to run a shorter serpentine belt since I have no smog pump? Do you know what size is required?

I'm going to get my parts all sand blasted and painted, and get ready to do this swap.

I can't answer all those questions, but Big Blue is sporting a 1990 underhood system, inc condenser, evaporator, compressor, receiver/dryer, and plenum. Bolted right up to the 1985 firewall with the '85 system inside the cab.

As previously said, the only issue was that the vacuum lines run slightly differently so I had to make a minor mod there. No biggee at all.

So, why not get the evaporator and condenser from the truck where you got the other parts? If the system was all together they should be fine if you flush them. That's exactly what I did and it works nicely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, why not get the evaporator and condenser from the truck where you got the other parts? If the system was all together they should be fine if you flush them. That's exactly what I did and it works nicely.

Well, only because I already have everything from a 1986 truck, and if everything work together, then I'm good to go. According to everything I'm looking at, they will all plug in together, so I think I'm set.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, why not get the evaporator and condenser from the truck where you got the other parts? If the system was all together they should be fine if you flush them. That's exactly what I did and it works nicely.

Well, only because I already have everything from a 1986 truck, and if everything work together, then I'm good to go. According to everything I'm looking at, they will all plug in together, so I think I'm set.

Oh, Gary...one more thing. This system had a 2G alternator (with the 7" bolt spacing) so all I need to do now is order a 3G and harness, and it will fit right in place where the 2G was, correct? I know I need to make the wiring changes, etc...but a 2G and 3G are physically the same size, correct?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh, Gary...one more thing. This system had a 2G alternator (with the 7" bolt spacing) so all I need to do now is order a 3G and harness, and it will fit right in place where the 2G was, correct? I know I need to make the wiring changes, etc...but a 2G and 3G are physically the same size, correct?

The 2G and the 95A 3G are about the same 135mm diameter.

The 130A 3G has a 148(?)mm diameter.

If you are using the 5.0l serpentine setup with the alternator on top you need the 7" C-C mount used on the 3.0l V-6.

And will have to cut away some of the bracket to allow the larger 130A alternator to fit. (Or use the 95A version)

I'm pretty sure Gary has those pics in the upgrades tutorial.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 2G and the 95A 3G are about the same 135mm diameter.

The 130A 3G has a 148(?)mm diameter.

If you are using the 5.0l serpentine setup with the alternator on top you need the 7" C-C mount used on the 3.0l V-6.

And will have to cut away some of the bracket to allow the larger 130A alternator to fit. (Or use the 95A version)

I'm pretty sure Gary has those pics in the upgrades tutorial.

Yep. From our page at Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion:

mount-sizes-3_2.jpg.a2e87e4399cde8b8a5c6d7a0bb35adc8.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep. From our page at Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion:

Right Gary.

But these are both 148mm diameter 130A 3G's. (Two holes in the front ribs)

If Cory wants a 130A 3G he will need to clearance the polygroove Windsor top mounting bracket with a die or angle grinder.

You have this illustration:

grinding-for-serpentine-installation-4_orig.jpg.654ddd726052ab94cb0ef6bc1c074a3b.jpg

The 7" mount 95A (four hole) 135mm alternator will fit without modification.

130a-3g-2_orig.jpg.e213074dc791aa02f54fdcd7be11a249.jpg

With this he will still have the advantage of better charge at idle and half again as much max output over the ~65A 2G design that is prone to melting the charge plug.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 2G and the 95A 3G are about the same 135mm diameter.

The 130A 3G has a 148(?)mm diameter.

If you are using the 5.0l serpentine setup with the alternator on top you need the 7" C-C mount used on the 3.0l V-6.

And will have to cut away some of the bracket to allow the larger 130A alternator to fit. (Or use the 95A version)

I'm pretty sure Gary has those pics in the upgrades tutorial.

Thanks for this Jim. Now that I go back and read up on the details I see that there are small and large case designs both with the 7" bolt spacing. A 95amp should be more than enough for me. Adding EFI, electric cruise control, and factory AC won't be adding very much load to the system. My factory 40amp alternator works quite well as it is. I'll look at both options regardless, and see which one is more readily available. I don't mind grinding the bracket a little bit if I have to.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 2G and the 95A 3G are about the same 135mm diameter.

The 130A 3G has a 148(?)mm diameter.

If you are using the 5.0l serpentine setup with the alternator on top you need the 7" C-C mount used on the 3.0l V-6.

And will have to cut away some of the bracket to allow the larger 130A alternator to fit. (Or use the 95A version)

I'm pretty sure Gary has those pics in the upgrades tutorial.

Thanks for this Jim. Now that I go back and read up on the details I see that there are small and large case designs both with the 7" bolt spacing. A 95amp should be more than enough for me. Adding EFI, electric cruise control, and factory AC won't be adding very much load to the system. My factory 40amp alternator works quite well as it is. I'll look at both options regardless, and see which one is more readily available. I don't mind grinding the bracket a little bit if I have to.

If so the 3G for a '96-'97 7.5l f- series or a '92-'94 3.0l Aerostar is the one you want.

Ford # F1SU-10300-BA, Lester # 7749-3

These are small body (95A), 7" mount alternators that come with a 59mm polygroove belt pulley

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If so the 3G for a '96-'97 7.5l f- series or a '92-'94 3.0l Aerostar is the one you want.

Ford # F1SU-10300-BA, Lester # 7749-3

These are small body (95A), 7" mount alternators that come with a 59mm polygroove belt pulley

https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/alternator-3-0-aerostar-92-93-94-7-5-f150-f250-f350-pickup-96-97.html#new-description-overview

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...