FuzzFace2 Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 Guys I looked in to why my AC stopped working the other day and from what I found wiring to / from compressor, through the PSI switch, is good so that leaves only 1 thing bad clutch! I have not looked into this other than posting here but I am sure you can replace just the clutch but ..... Is there any special tools needed and do you have to evac the system? Anything else I should look out for or do when I do this? FYI everything in the system is new other than the compressor & evap coil but all has been working up till a day ago. Thanks for any information you can give. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 On some systems I've worked on there's a removal tool that screws into the clutch hub and then pushes the clutch off the shaft of the compressor. And there's no need to evac the system - at least not on the ones I've worked on. But, have you tried placing 12v directly to the clutch? Just to make SURE it is the clutch that isn't working? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 I wouldn’t change the clutch without checking pressures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 On some systems I've worked on there's a removal tool that screws into the clutch hub and then pushes the clutch off the shaft of the compressor. And there's no need to evac the system - at least not on the ones I've worked on. But, have you tried placing 12v directly to the clutch? Just to make SURE it is the clutch that isn't working? I agree with Gary, confirm 12V at the coil feed. These systems have a pressure switch for cycling the compressor clutch and low Freon levels will keep it open. The York and Tecumseh two cyl. ones use a 5/8-11 bolt to push the clutch off the shaft. If yours has the brush feed for a rotating coil, the entire assembly comes off at that point. Fixed coils are held on with 4 bolts after the rotating assembly is removed. The FS6 introduced in 1985 is a bit different. The clutch plate is held on by a small bolt, the pulley is held on the compressor snout with a big snap ring. It has a beveled cross section that requires the bevel to be away from the bearing. The actual coil on these is pressed on the front head of the compressor. It can be removed by carefully prying between the compressor front head and the back of the coil. I reinstall them with a 2X4 with a hole big enough for the compressor snout to fit through so I can seat it with a large hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted July 7, 2021 Share Posted July 7, 2021 I agree with Gary, confirm 12V at the coil feed. These systems have a pressure switch for cycling the compressor clutch and low Freon levels will keep it open. The York and Tecumseh two cyl. ones use a 5/8-11 bolt to push the clutch off the shaft. If yours has the brush feed for a rotating coil, the entire assembly comes off at that point. Fixed coils are held on with 4 bolts after the rotating assembly is removed. The FS6 introduced in 1985 is a bit different. The clutch plate is held on by a small bolt, the pulley is held on the compressor snout with a big snap ring. It has a beveled cross section that requires the bevel to be away from the bearing. The actual coil on these is pressed on the front head of the compressor. It can be removed by carefully prying between the compressor front head and the back of the coil. I reinstall them with a 2X4 with a hole big enough for the compressor snout to fit through so I can seat it with a large hammer. I'll third that... mine had corrosion at the inline flyback diode which was keeping my clutch from getting power. Had to resolder all of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted July 7, 2021 Author Share Posted July 7, 2021 I'll third that... mine had corrosion at the inline flyback diode which was keeping my clutch from getting power. Had to resolder all of it. Sorry I did not up date. The system still has pressure because after I had the plug for the PSI switch jumped out checking for power at the compressor plug and then checking the ground side of the harness I plugged the PSI switch back in and had power at the compressor plug. So power in & out of the PSI switch (system charged) all the way to the compressor and the ground from compressor back is good also. So I cant see anything else but a bad coil to keep th the AC from working. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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