It ran ran Fine Yesterday, well kind of, and now it doesn't start

[ArdWrknTrk]

Update:

Today started (figuratively only)just like the other "didn't start" but really, not a puff, nothing. Cranked it, w choke on, with foot to the floor, with starting fluid... nothing. So i checked for some spark, the old fashioned way screwdriver in the plug boot held near some metal crank it look for something, and I saw nothing. I grabbed the timing light, clamped it around no1 Cyl. figured I'd see a flash, still nothing. Absolutely not lying when I tell you that, I just ordered an ignition module for the truck today, because the wiring is pretty worked over and I wanted to freshen it up a bit. So now, to ensure I'm doing the right checks, I haven't looked at the "Documents" yet but once I post this that's where I'll be.

I'm open to any checks I should do before I start changing things around, So that I don't end with the same problem, because it's actually rooted somewhere else in the engine.

I'm all ears,

Try putting your timing light on the coil wire and pointing it at the driver's seat.

Cycle the key on and off.

The coil should discharge no matter what when the power stops flowing.

If you don't get a spark then it is that the coil is not seeing any power, not in the module or distributor.

Just a quick and dirty before you go looking.

Yes, you can always check for power to the horseshoe with the key on.

But if you already have the timing light out you can quickly eliminate the possibility that the ignition is not being charged.

It's always good to check the black wire brass grounding tab inside the distributor.

That is the only ground for the ignition.

You can have plenty of power going to the coil. If it doesn't have anywhere to go (in order to create a magnetic field) nothing is going to happen.

Just a couple of quick thoughts for the fundamentals of a no spark condition.

[Gary Lewis]

Update:

Today started (figuratively only)just like the other "didn't start" but really, not a puff, nothing. Cranked it, w choke on, with foot to the floor, with starting fluid... nothing. So i checked for some spark, the old fashioned way screwdriver in the plug boot held near some metal crank it look for something, and I saw nothing. I grabbed the timing light, clamped it around no1 Cyl. figured I'd see a flash, still nothing. Absolutely not lying when I tell you that, I just ordered an ignition module for the truck today, because the wiring is pretty worked over and I wanted to freshen it up a bit. So now, to ensure I'm doing the right checks, I haven't looked at the "Documents" yet but once I post this that's where I'll be.

I'm open to any checks I should do before I start changing things around, So that I don't end with the same problem, because it's actually rooted somewhere else in the engine.

I'm all ears,

I would check out the wiring to the DS-II module, as shown below from the 1985 EVTM. Check the voltages at C321 and C323, which will tell you if the wiring is solid.

[Bulletproof250]

I would check out the wiring to the DS-II module, as shown below from the 1985 EVTM. Check the voltages at C321 and C323, which will tell you if the wiring is solid.

These are the results I've gotten I think I may have a bad coil as well from the measurement that i took with the supply wires. And I performed the quick check with the Timing light, no flash from the coil turning the key on and off, tried a few times double checking connections.

[ArdWrknTrk]

These are the results I've gotten I think I may have a bad coil as well from the measurement that i took with the supply wires. And I performed the quick check with the Timing light, no flash from the coil turning the key on and off, tried a few times double checking connections.

Your coil voltage readings seem normal to me.

As does the readings at C321.

Does W32 get power while using the starter?

Does the reading on 144 fluctuate when the reluctor wheel in the distributor is turning?

What are the ohm's across the distributor pickup (144 to 147) when unplugged from the module?

[Gary Lewis]

Your coil voltage readings seem normal to me.

As does the readings at C321.

Does W32 get power while using the starter?

Does the reading on 144 fluctuate when the reluctor wheel in the distributor is turning?

What are the ohm's across the distributor pickup (144 to 147) when unplugged from the module?

I agree with Jim. But I'd add that not getting a spark when you turn the key off isn't a conclusive test. All of the modules I've played with did spark in that condition, but the EVTM doesn't list that as one of the tests so the engineers must not have thought it was a legit one.

[Bulletproof250]

Your coil voltage readings seem normal to me.

As does the readings at C321.

Does W32 get power while using the starter?

Does the reading on 144 fluctuate when the reluctor wheel in the distributor is turning?

What are the ohm's across the distributor pickup (144 to 147) when unplugged from the module?

OK this is the few readings that I got before "IT STARTED" after it idled rough and smoothed out it did stall twice one time I could tell there was something not quite right about it. It was idling just fine and then just died (like someone turned of the key)

Wire 144 to Grd- 3.6k at rest

Wire 144 to Grd- 3.6k to 0L while running

Wire 144 to 147 was sitting bout 15.3 to 13.9k while running

But then it died, and I restarted it and I was seeing

Wire 144 to Grd- 0.000Oohms to OL while running.

Do you think I might be on to something here?

Wire 144 to 147 was sitting bout 15.3 to 13.9k while running

Then since Jim mentioned the reluctor I started looking into the distributor a bit and I saw this:

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

OK this is the few readings that I got before "IT STARTED" after it idled rough and smoothed out it did stall twice one time I could tell there was something not quite right about it. It was idling just fine and then just died (like someone turned of the key)

Wire 144 to Grd- 3.6k at rest

Wire 144 to Grd- 3.6k to 0L while running

Wire 144 to 147 was sitting bout 15.3 to 13.9k while running

But then it died, and I restarted it and I was seeing

Wire 144 to Grd- 0.000Oohms to OL while running.

Do you think I might be on to something here?

Wire 144 to 147 was sitting bout 15.3 to 13.9k while running

Then since Jim mentioned the reluctor I started looking into the distributor a bit and I saw this:

The other tab is screwed down.

There's two tabs on the strain relief but only one gets attached.

Probably some other distributor uses the other side?

I'm not sure about that gap on the pickup.

I'll have to take a look at mine when I get home.

[grumpin]

The other tab is screwed down.

There's two tabs on the strain relief but only one gets attached.

Probably some other distributor uses the other side?

I'm not sure about that gap on the pickup.

I'll have to take a look at mine when I get home.

On the gap, I recently replaced my pickup, I noticed the old one touched. The new one had a small gap.

I’m assuming once it starts spinning it makes a gap.

Edit: also as Jim said, only one tab is used to hold that part of the pickup in.

[Bulletproof250]

On the gap, I recently replaced my pickup, I noticed the old one touched. The new one had a small gap.

I’m assuming once it starts spinning it makes a gap.

Edit: also as Jim said, only one tab is used to hold that part of the pickup in.

Is the coil supposed to be loose? That is how I discovered the gap. I can move it back to make it have no gap (see the coil position in the picture below). is this possibly my intermittent issue? For clarification the fastening "tab" that I'm trying to describe looks to be a ring tongue terminal-like attachment point, however I'll agree this doesn't look as though it has been attached for some time.

Thanks for taking the time looking at this mundane issue, I'm doing my best to try and troubleshoot, ands understand the problem, before I go my usual route and throw parts/$ at it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Is the coil supposed to be loose? That is how I discovered the gap. I can move it back to make it have no gap (see the coil position in the picture below). is this possibly my intermittent issue? For clarification the fastening "tab" that I'm trying to describe looks to be a ring tongue terminal-like attachment point, however I'll agree this doesn't look as though it has been attached for some time.

Thanks for taking the time looking at this mundane issue, I'm doing my best to try and troubleshoot, ands understand the problem, before I go my usual route and throw parts/$ at it.

There's no threaded hole under that second grounding tab. It was never attached.

The brass tongue on the other side is enough. (although it is the only ground point for the entire ignition system)

No, the pickup coil should not be free to change the gap between itself and the reluctor wheel.

That dimension is fairly critical.

Maybe it has come free from its mounting plate?