Gary Lewis Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 Changed the scale on my meter (20K scale) it now reads 9.2 between center output and either brass terminal. This is between 7,500 & 11,000 and is OK, then, correct? Sorry for the errant readings, but something was telling me I'm not doing that test properly..... I guess so. Don't remember what the spec's are. But you've been reading them, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 Changed the scale on my meter (20K scale) it now reads 9.2 between center output and either brass terminal. This is between 7,500 & 11,000 and is OK, then, correct? Sorry for the errant readings, but something was telling me I'm not doing that test properly..... I'd think you wouldn't want any connection between primary and secondary windings. How do you induce a field in the other, if there is a connection? You have low voltage primary input and the tach/ground terminals that both attach to the horseshoe. Then you have the secondary winding that is between the HT output and case ground, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 I'd think you wouldn't want any connection between primary and secondary windings. How do you induce a field in the other, if there is a connection? You have low voltage primary input and the tach/ground terminals that both attach to the horseshoe. Then you have the secondary winding that is between the HT output and case ground, right? It should be wired like this, which shows the secondary connected to the high side of the primary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctubutis Posted June 28, 2021 Author Share Posted June 28, 2021 Changed the scale on my meter (20K scale) it now reads 9.2 between center output and either brass terminal. This is between 7,500 & 11,000 and is OK, then, correct? Sorry for the errant readings, but something was telling me I'm not doing that test properly..... OK, it runs, but no real change. I'm gonna go do Yoga, back to this (or maybe the SHO) in a while... Part 1: Part 2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 It should be wired like this, which shows the secondary connected to the high side of the primary. I get it that the HT side of the coil needs power, and that it has to connect somewhere. I guess testing sould show A, or B, or A+B. Anyway, it's promising to find something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 OK, it runs, but no real change. I'm gonna go do Yoga, back to this (or maybe the SHO) in a while... Part 1: Part 2: Wow. That is amazing! That you can floor it and it takes that long to react. I don't think either fuel or spark would do that. The only thing that might is timing. And the fact that you can't find your timing marks seems to say that the timing chain has jumped. I would pull the passenger-side valve cover, find TDC on #1, and see if both valves are closed. I'm guessing that they won't be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 Wow. That is amazing! That you can floor it and it takes that long to react. I don't think either fuel or spark would do that. The only thing that might is timing. And the fact that you can't find your timing marks seems to say that the timing chain has jumped. I would pull the passenger-side valve cover, find TDC on #1, and see if both valves are closed. I'm guessing that they won't be. Timing chain slipped with under 10K miles? I would definitely make sure the damper timing marks match with TDC #1 as shown by a piston stop or a straw. If the spark is set to a slipped damper who knows what the actual ignition timing is? But if the ignition timing is that far out, it might not be the cam chain, it might be the distributor gear. That sort of slop should show up if Chris tried rocking the crank with a breaker bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 Timing chain slipped with under 10K miles? I would definitely make sure the damper timing marks match with TDC #1 as shown by a piston stop or a straw. If the spark is set to a slipped damper who knows what the actual ignition timing is? But if the ignition timing is that far out, it might not be the cam chain, it might be the distributor gear. That sort of slop should show up if Chris tried rocking the crank with a breaker bar Good point. Perhaps the timing was set up using a slipped balancer. And now it has slipped more? But that wouldn't explain why it ran well initially and has now deteriorated. I like the distributor gear theory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 Good point. Perhaps the timing was set up using a slipped balancer. And now it has slipped more? But that wouldn't explain why it ran well initially and has now deteriorated. I like the distributor gear theory. I've got no theory. Just grasping at straws. 🤷 Those two "dead" cylinders with decent plugs make me want to do a leak down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 I've got no theory. Just grasping at straws. 🤷 Those two "dead" cylinders with decent plugs make me want to do a leak down. Yes, I think a leak-down test and verifying that the timing "system" is in tact would be in order. And by timing "system" I mean that the cam is properly timed, that the distributor gear is in tact, and that the ignition timing is correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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