ckuske Posted June 5, 2021 Author Share Posted June 5, 2021 If it's any help, I painted my original 302 factory valve covers (I'm that weird guy that liked the look of them over aftermarket valve covers). I installed a set of the Fel-Pro Perma Dry Plus valve cover gaskets, and so far they have been great...no leaks, no weeps, nothing. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-vs13264t http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n98334/IMG_4605.jpg http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n98334/IMG_4606.jpg By the way, you'll see in my pics where the factory valve cover bolts with the studs go...on the two outer forward locations. If your original plastic wire holders are broken and/or missing like most are, you can buy these ones below from most auto parts shops: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-40286 You can see them installed below so that you can run your plug wires neatly in the stock locations. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n98334/IMG_6275.jpg I like the OE valve covers as well. But I cant run them they wont work with roller rockers. Thanks all for the replies, super valuable information here. I want to do it right the first time. I removed all the bolts last night easily - the valve covers wouldn't budge. I was tired already from work so I decided I wouldn't try to muscle them off and regret it (bend them), so I'll try tomorrow instead. I have a rubber mallet, and it seems it can take a few whacks to knock them loose. The bolts on the drivers side had a yellowish gummy substance on them - not sure if it's gasket material or what, but I'm guessing that's not helping in my efforts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 The bolts on the drivers side had a yellowish gummy substance on them - not sure if it's gasket material or what, but I'm guessing that's not helping in my efforts... Sounds like "gorilla snot" (aka weatherstrip adhesive) was used to cement the gasket in place, and the bolts picked it up when pushed through. Without having it in my hands, that is my guess anyway.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 The bolts on the drivers side had a yellowish gummy substance on them - not sure if it's gasket material or what, but I'm guessing that's not helping in my efforts... Sounds like "gorilla snot" (aka weatherstrip adhesive) was used to cement the gasket in place, and the bolts picked it up when pushed through. Without having it in my hands, that is my guess anyway.... Yep, gorilla snot is exactly what I thought of. If it got on both sides of the gasket you'll have to use some force to get the covers off. It is tenacious and stringy stuff, so it won't just break free with a couple of love taps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 Yep, gorilla snot is exactly what I thought of. If it got on both sides of the gasket you'll have to use some force to get the covers off. It is tenacious and stringy stuff, so it won't just break free with a couple of love taps. Like I said above if you're going to use gasket adhesive, glue the gaskets to the cover, not the block or head. I'm really glad I have no one but myself to blame for my truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted June 5, 2021 Author Share Posted June 5, 2021 Like I said above if you're going to use gasket adhesive, glue the gaskets to the cover, not the block or head. I'm really glad I have no one but myself to blame for my truck. That's kind of my aim - pretty soon there will be nothing left to blame others for, it's all me. And I'm good with that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 That's kind of my aim - pretty soon there will be nothing left to blame others for, it's all me. And I'm good with that! Hmmm.... I'm almost there. A few years ago it was all "Look what did!" Now the only thing left he did is the rear diff and rear brakes. Pretty well everything else is ME. It is a good feeling. Go for it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted June 5, 2021 Author Share Posted June 5, 2021 Like I said above if you're going to use gasket adhesive, glue the gaskets to the cover, not the block or head. I'm really glad I have no one but myself to blame for my truck. I got the driver's side off today, and the passenger side is loose but I need to remove some of the smog junk to get the cover out and off completely. Here a pic of the drivers side head with the cover off - I was pretty happy with the condition of things - no sludge etc. It sounds primitive, probably because it is.... but what I used to get them off is I have a large wrench where I used the closed side of it and put it in between the block and the cover in a few different places, and gently pried up. The closed end of the wrench is quite large (like 2 1/2") so when prying it spreads the load out pretty well. I used that and kept whacking with my rubber mallet as well, and it eventually came off. Half the cork gasket is on the head, and half on the cover, not much goop afterall that I saw, but that's probably what caused the gasket to be split lengthways when I managed to pop the cover off. Tomorrow, I'll get the other off and then prep them for paint! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 I got the driver's side off today, and the passenger side is loose but I need to remove some of the smog junk to get the cover out and off completely. Here a pic of the drivers side head with the cover off - I was pretty happy with the condition of things - no sludge etc. It sounds primitive, probably because it is.... but what I used to get them off is I have a large wrench where I used the closed side of it and put it in between the block and the cover in a few different places, and gently pried up. The closed end of the wrench is quite large (like 2 1/2") so when prying it spreads the load out pretty well. I used that and kept whacking with my rubber mallet as well, and it eventually came off. Half the cork gasket is on the head, and half on the cover, not much goop afterall that I saw, but that's probably what caused the gasket to be split lengthways when I managed to pop the cover off. Tomorrow, I'll get the other off and then prep them for paint! Glad you got it off. And it is good that there's no sludge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted June 6, 2021 Author Share Posted June 6, 2021 If it's any help, I painted my original 302 factory valve covers (I'm that weird guy that liked the look of them over aftermarket valve covers). I installed a set of the Fel-Pro Perma Dry Plus valve cover gaskets, and so far they have been great...no leaks, no weeps, nothing. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-vs13264t By the way, you'll see in my pics where the factory valve cover bolts with the studs go...on the two outer forward locations. If your original plastic wire holders are broken and/or missing like most are, you can buy these ones below from most auto parts shops: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-40286 You can see them installed below so that you can run your plug wires neatly in the stock locations. Thanks for the pictures, Cory! They are a big help. I'm trying to keep things stock, so I'm more than good with keeping the existing covers. It's a shame they'll be mostly covered up with the bazillon vacuum hoses for the emissions stuff, but *I'll* know they're going to be nice and blue and not rusty, so that's what matters, right? I did order some of those Dorman wire retainers too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 I got the driver's side off today, and the passenger side is loose but I need to remove some of the smog junk to get the cover out and off completely. Here a pic of the drivers side head with the cover off - I was pretty happy with the condition of things - no sludge etc. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n98419/IMG_2683.jpg It sounds primitive, probably because it is.... but what I used to get them off is I have a large wrench where I used the closed side of it and put it in between the block and the cover in a few different places, and gently pried up. The closed end of the wrench is quite large (like 2 1/2") so when prying it spreads the load out pretty well. I used that and kept whacking with my rubber mallet as well, and it eventually came off. Half the cork gasket is on the head, and half on the cover, not much goop afterall that I saw, but that's probably what caused the gasket to be split lengthways when I managed to pop the cover off. Tomorrow, I'll get the other off and then prep them for paint! If you look on the intake youll see a pad close to the valve cover lip front and rear. I use this lip to place a large screw driver and gently twist the screw driver to work the valve cover loose front to rear. This prevents hammering on the valve cover and in lots of cases your left with the majority if not all of the gasket material stuck to the valve cover. If you decide to use silicone to attach the gasket to the valve cover I strongly recommend Ultra Black, it is formulated for use where it will come into contact with oil. Dont use the clear or the grey, the clear doesnt like oil and will yellow and let loose when oil hits it over time. The grey is a high strength bond something you dont want either as it will make it a pain when it comes time to replace gaskets down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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