ckuske Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 Hi All, I wanted to keep this question outside my project thread (which I will update later today)... My engine bay is coming together, I almost have all the sludge cleaned up and things looking about ~32.342 years newer than they looked a few months ago. The last thing is the valve covers. I don't have the means or where-with-all to pull the engine, but I'd like to paint the valve covers a fresh coat of Ford Blue. Are there any show-stoppers with me pulling them off with the engine still mounted? I know it's a silly question, the answer seems "no", but I wanted to double check before getting myself into a tricky situation. I don't really want to remove them at all, but I don't think I can paint the back of them without lots of overspray and not doing a good job. Felpro gaskets when I reinstall them? Anything to be aware of there? It'll be my first time taking the covers off and reinstalling also, so any tips are appreciated. Thanks everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 Nope, no issues and no gotchas to pulling them. Main thing on reinstalling is to not overtighten them and make sure the holes are flat on the covers. Jim has me sold on Real Gaskets (Tennessee) but a bit pricey and have to wait on shipping. Prior to them I used Felpro obtained locally and didn't have any issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 No problem pulling them, after you strip all the old paint off Id lay the valve cover edge upside down on a flat hard surface and use the ball end of a ball peen hammer and smack the bolt holes to ding them up as they will be warped downward and wont provide good clamping force in the middle between bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted June 3, 2021 Author Share Posted June 3, 2021 No problem pulling them, after you strip all the old paint off Id lay the valve cover edge upside down on a flat hard surface and use the ball end of a ball peen hammer and smack the bolt holes to ding them up as they will be warped downward and wont provide good clamping force in the middle between bolts. Thanks to you both for the replies! I just went out to the truck to look at what I need to disconnect etc to take the covers off (dang CA emissions). Not too bad. I did try to loosen a few bolts on the covers - they weren't even hand tight! Was able to turn them with index finger and thumb, zero effort. (Shakes head) I've been looking at spark plug routing as well, and I see that the studs that stick out on a few bolts to mount the separators are there, but in the wrong locations. They're supposed to be on the sides of the covers, the first two bolt holes, right (cyls 1&2, and 5&6)? On mine, there is one stud on the first hold on each side (cyls 1&5), and the other stud is on the last bolt (4&8). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 Just make sure the flanges are straight before you paint them. Overtightened bolts in the past will distort the lip and they will never seal. Fel-Pro rubber with the bolt spacers are the best way to go for tin covers. If you decide to use cork, glue the gaskets into the covers with something like Indian Head gasket shellac. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted June 3, 2021 Author Share Posted June 3, 2021 Just make sure the flanges are straight before you paint them. Overtightened bolts in the past will distort the lip and they will never seal. Fel-Pro rubber with the bolt spacers are the best way to go for tin covers. If you decide to use cork, glue the gaskets into the covers with something like Indian Head gasket shellac. Thanks, Jim. I assume the spacers are to prevent oil from escaping/oozing between the bolt and the edge of each bolt hole? Right, these are the original tin covers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 Thanks, Jim. I assume the spacers are to prevent oil from escaping/oozing between the bolt and the edge of each bolt hole? Right, these are the original tin covers Actually, I think the spacers are so you won't bend the valve covers when you tighten the bolts down. If your cover is straight/flat then they ensure there's even spacing all the way 'round. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 Thanks, Jim. I assume the spacers are to prevent oil from escaping/oozing between the bolt and the edge of each bolt hole? Right, these are the original tin covers The donuts are to keep you from over compressing the gasket and causing the distortion I mentioned. The gasket itself is just a bit thicker and those spacers control how much crush it gets. Do take note of how very little torque valve cover bolts are supposed to have. I don't use my 1/4 torque wrench, but do use my fingers and a 1/4" ratchet. (No need to make a fist and pull on the ratchet) Look back at the old hot rod T-handle valve cover nuts. Those guys had to adjust for solid lifters constantly, so they had studs in the head to locate the gasket and never needed to wrench on them to keep them sealed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted June 4, 2021 Share Posted June 4, 2021 If it's any help, I painted my original 302 factory valve covers (I'm that weird guy that liked the look of them over aftermarket valve covers). I installed a set of the Fel-Pro Perma Dry Plus valve cover gaskets, and so far they have been great...no leaks, no weeps, nothing. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-vs13264t By the way, you'll see in my pics where the factory valve cover bolts with the studs go...on the two outer forward locations. If your original plastic wire holders are broken and/or missing like most are, you can buy these ones below from most auto parts shops: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-40286 You can see them installed below so that you can run your plug wires neatly in the stock locations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted June 4, 2021 Share Posted June 4, 2021 If it's any help, I painted my original 302 factory valve covers (I'm that weird guy that liked the look of them over aftermarket valve covers). I installed a set of the Fel-Pro Perma Dry Plus valve cover gaskets, and so far they have been great...no leaks, no weeps, nothing. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-vs13264t http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n98334/IMG_4605.jpg http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n98334/IMG_4606.jpg By the way, you'll see in my pics where the factory valve cover bolts with the studs go...on the two outer forward locations. If your original plastic wire holders are broken and/or missing like most are, you can buy these ones below from most auto parts shops: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-40286 You can see them installed below so that you can run your plug wires neatly in the stock locations. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n98334/IMG_6275.jpg I like the OE valve covers as well. But I cant run them they wont work with roller rockers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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