26ftcobraBBF Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 I didn't realize that the plate for the choke stove was directly open to the exhaust. When I changed the carb I attempted to remove the choke heat, but just broke a bolt and figured I'd leave it so I didn't break other one. Today upon inspection before an oil change I noticed an unfamiliar sound. Started poking around and this is what I found. I believe the exhaust is coming out from under the plate and hitting my carb. If you look close you'll see condensationbon the carb from the warm exhaust hitting the cold carb.. What do I do? Is it just a matter of blocking off the choke heater access, or do I have bigger issues with exhaust coming through that area Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 Yes, in your words "it just a matter of blocking off the choke heater access". But with the broken bolt that may not be as easy to do as to type. I say that because I'm not sure you'll get a good seal w/o both bolts. But if it was me I'd try it. I'd make a plate out of something like 1/4" steel and put a gasket under it. Perhaps the one bolt will seal it. However, if not then you'll have to get that broken bolt out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 Yes, in your words "it just a matter of blocking off the choke heater access". But with the broken bolt that may not be as easy to do as to type. I say that because I'm not sure you'll get a good seal w/o both bolts. But if it was me I'd try it. I'd make a plate out of something like 1/4" steel and put a gasket under it. Perhaps the one bolt will seal it. However, if not then you'll have to get that broken bolt out. Id be tempted to try a reverse rotation drill bit some times it bites and will pull the broken bolt out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
26ftcobraBBF Posted June 2, 2021 Author Share Posted June 2, 2021 Yes, in your words "it just a matter of blocking off the choke heater access". But with the broken bolt that may not be as easy to do as to type. I say that because I'm not sure you'll get a good seal w/o both bolts. But if it was me I'd try it. I'd make a plate out of something like 1/4" steel and put a gasket under it. Perhaps the one bolt will seal it. However, if not then you'll have to get that broken bolt out. Drill and tap...most likely both. I don't think that other bolt is coming out without a fight. I've gotten pretty lucky with that lately. Between changing out my 460 exhaust manifold I broke 3 off right where the motor goes through the firewall, and the EGR cooler on my power stroke, I'm feeling pretty confident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 Drill and tap...most likely both. I don't think that other bolt is coming out without a fight. I've gotten pretty lucky with that lately. Between changing out my 460 exhaust manifold I broke 3 off right where the motor goes through the firewall, and the EGR cooler on my power stroke, I'm feeling pretty confident. On the one not broken any way to heat the manifold where the bolt is and not heat the bolt? You want to expand the manifold around the bolt before trying to remove the bolt. Dave. ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 Drill and tap...most likely both. I don't think that other bolt is coming out without a fight. I've gotten pretty lucky with that lately. Between changing out my 460 exhaust manifold I broke 3 off right where the motor goes through the firewall, and the EGR cooler on my power stroke, I'm feeling pretty confident. Sounds like you have a knack My talent is breaking drill bits off when trying to address something like this and then being worse off... In general, I've had better luck with dremel-cutting a slot in the bolt for a flathead screwdriver and then using localized heat with a handheld impact. Skipping the heat in this location (at least without more work), maybe some pbblaster and the impact? The thing I like about the slot is that you don't limit later options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
26ftcobraBBF Posted June 2, 2021 Author Share Posted June 2, 2021 On the one not broken any way to heat the manifold where the bolt is and not heat the bolt? You want to expand the manifold around the bolt before trying to remove the bolt. Dave. ---- Good idea, I'm thinking I'm going to need to pull the carb anyhow to get a good angle on the top bolt that's already broken. I've got a small braising setup that takes mapp and oxygen, with that I can concentrate the majority of the heat in one location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
26ftcobraBBF Posted June 2, 2021 Author Share Posted June 2, 2021 Sounds like you have a knack My talent is breaking drill bits off when trying to address something like this and then being worse off... In general, I've had better luck with dremel-cutting a slot in the bolt for a flathead screwdriver and then using localized heat with a handheld impact. Skipping the heat in this location (at least without more work), maybe some pbblaster and the impact? The thing I like about the slot is that you don't limit later options. My trials haven't been without error. When working on the exhaust manifold I broke an extractor off in one of the bolts on the worst possible location. I went through about 30 bucks worth of dremnel, and die grinder bits. The my bolts broke off flush, so I didn't really have an option to use a slotted screwdriver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
26ftcobraBBF Posted June 9, 2021 Author Share Posted June 9, 2021 My trials haven't been without error. When working on the exhaust manifold I broke an extractor off in one of the bolts on the worst possible location. I went through about 30 bucks worth of dremnel, and die grinder bits. The my bolts broke off flush, so I didn't really have an option to use a slotted screwdriver. Got'er done. So as I suspected the other bolt broke too, so had two to drill and tap. It's never really to bad when you can get a regular drill, with a regular drill bit to line up with the broken bolt. Took the carb off to give a little extra room. Since the carb was off figured I'd re-torque the intake manifold bolts. I replaced the gasket recently. I did re-torque the intake bolts after 100 miles initially. Probably put 1500 miles since. I was shocked at how loose those bolts were I got probably ¾-1 full turn out of most of them. That may have been my sluggish performance issue I had asked about recently. I was thinking it was something to do with the PCV originally, because that's when I first noticed it after changing out the PCV and breather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 9, 2021 Share Posted June 9, 2021 Got'er done. So as I suspected the other bolt broke too, so had two to drill and tap. It's never really to bad when you can get a regular drill, with a regular drill bit to line up with the broken bolt. Took the carb off to give a little extra room. Since the carb was off figured I'd re-torque the intake manifold bolts. I replaced the gasket recently. I did re-torque the intake bolts after 100 miles initially. Probably put 1500 miles since. I was shocked at how loose those bolts were I got probably ¾-1 full turn out of most of them. That may have been my sluggish performance issue I had asked about recently. I was thinking it was something to do with the PCV originally, because that's when I first noticed it after changing out the PCV and breather. Glad you got it done. And, glad you found the loose bolts. (I need to do that myself.) So, is it running better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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