Planning For Big Blue's Trip To Ouray

[grumpin]

Aw shucks! You mean I have no "good" reason to run out and buy a welder?

Having said that, I am wondering about taking wire nuts. I know they have no place in a vehicle's wiring - long term. But, I'm thinking about short term. What if we tear up some wiring? With wire nuts we could use the ~25' roll of #16 I'm taking to effect some temp fixes that I'd replace when we get home.

Yes, I could take a soldering gun, solder, connectors, crimpers, heat shrink, heat gun, etc to make a permanent fix. But that would take a lot of time and I'd rather be running the trails than making repairs.

Thoughts?

Soldering in the wind is difficult. I’d go with wire nuts or assortments of butt splices etc. as Jim mentioned.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Soldering in the wind is difficult. I’d go with wire nuts or assortments of butt splices etc. as Jim mentioned.

There are those shrink connectors with solder inside.

But nobody wants to deal with a torch or lighter on the side of the road (or trail)

I have my Channel lock combination tool. Snip, strip, insulated and bare crimping pliers.

The problem with most assortments is that they are 50% or more ring terminals.

When you likely need butts, spades, etc to affect a repair.

[Bruce moose4x4]

Aw shucks! You mean I have no "good" reason to run out and buy a welder?

Having said that, I am wondering about taking wire nuts. I know they have no place in a vehicle's wiring - long term. But, I'm thinking about short term. What if we tear up some wiring? With wire nuts we could use the ~25' roll of #16 I'm taking to effect some temp fixes that I'd replace when we get home.

Yes, I could take a soldering gun, solder, connectors, crimpers, heat shrink, heat gun, etc to make a permanent fix. But that would take a lot of time and I'd rather be running the trails than making repairs.

Thoughts?

I have used these for years, even though they are the pinch type. They are filled with dielectric silicone. They work great in a pinch, just put wire in and squeeze.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/standard-ignition-wire-terminal-clip/std0/stp525?q=stp525&pos=0

Standard also has some twist connectors with silicone STP 464---STP 466---STP 467

[Nothing Special]

.... Having said that, I am wondering about taking wire nuts....

Thoughts?

As has been said, crimp connectors or soldering is the "right" way to do it.

Personally, if I wasn't going to take the time on the trail (or more accurately, since I wasn't going to bring the tools on the trail) I'd just go with a roll of electrical tape before I messed with wire nuts. Strip the ends, twist them together and tape over it until you can get back to a place to do it right. A roll of tape doesn't take up as much room as an assortment of wire nuts, and it has a lot of other uses. Plus I've never felt great about how wire nuts work on the stranded wire used in vehicles. I like using them a lot better with the solid single strand you have in house wiring.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

.... Having said that, I am wondering about taking wire nuts....

Thoughts?

As has been said, crimp connectors or soldering is the "right" way to do it.

Personally, if I wasn't going to take the time on the trail (or more accurately, since I wasn't going to bring the tools on the trail) I'd just go with a roll of electrical tape before I messed with wire nuts. Strip the ends, twist them together and tape over it until you can get back to a place to do it right. A roll of tape doesn't take up as much room as an assortment of wire nuts, and it has a lot of other uses. Plus I've never felt great about how wire nuts work on the stranded wire used in vehicles. I like using them a lot better with the solid single strand you have in house wiring.

Wire nuts were meant to be used with solid wire or thick strands. Not with automotive harness.

Electrical tape won't get you a terminal if you need it.

A box of crimps is the size of a paperback (remember those?)

Just as fast as tape, more secure, more adaptations.

[Gary Lewis]

.... Having said that, I am wondering about taking wire nuts....

Thoughts?

As has been said, crimp connectors or soldering is the "right" way to do it.

Personally, if I wasn't going to take the time on the trail (or more accurately, since I wasn't going to bring the tools on the trail) I'd just go with a roll of electrical tape before I messed with wire nuts. Strip the ends, twist them together and tape over it until you can get back to a place to do it right. A roll of tape doesn't take up as much room as an assortment of wire nuts, and it has a lot of other uses. Plus I've never felt great about how wire nuts work on the stranded wire used in vehicles. I like using them a lot better with the solid single strand you have in house wiring.

Guys - Thanks for all of the ideas. I really appreciate them. But I've been playing with the TEST forum all day and haven't had time to process all of them. I will get back to them soon, but I'm pushing hard to get our new "home" sorted out.

[Gary Lewis]

Guys - Thanks for all of the ideas. I really appreciate them. But I've been playing with the TEST forum all day and haven't had time to process all of them. I will get back to them soon, but I'm pushing hard to get our new "home" sorted out.

Ok guys, time for an update. (Not playing on the TEST forum as much today.)

Got an email back from one of my nephews, who has done a lot of offroading on his RZR as well as spent time around Ouray. His suggestions in addition to things I already had were:

• Tire Repair: BLACK JACK TIRE REPAIR Truck Repair Kit w/ 35 Rep. His brother, who has done similar offroading, suggested that kit and it has worked extremely well for both of them.

• Wire Connectors: Wago 222-413 LEVER-NUTS 3 Conductor Compact Connectors 10 PK. He's used them on everything from little bitty stranded stuff to solid wire and loves them. So for $6.15 I thought I'd give them a try.

• Window Cleaner: Said the windshield will get dirty, so I'll stick some in as well as some white paper towels.

• Cargo Bar: Said that HF has a good one that allows you to secure a tote, gas can, etc. Not sure which one he had in mind but I'm checking into it. This one appears to be kind of long.

• Altitude Meds: Said he got sick in Lake City on his recent trip, so I guess I'd better either get some meds or stay out of Lake City?

• Marker: An antenna or some such on a magnet to put on the front bumper, allowing you to see where it is. Makes getting into tight places a lot easier.

• Gorilla Tape: I have some and will put it in.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok guys, time for an update. (Not playing on the TEST forum as much today.)

Got an email back from one of my nephews, who has done a lot of offroading on his RZR as well as spent time around Ouray. His suggestions in addition to things I already had were:

• Tire Repair: BLACK JACK TIRE REPAIR Truck Repair Kit w/ 35 Rep. His brother, who has done similar offroading, suggested that kit and it has worked extremely well for both of them.

• Wire Connectors: Wago 222-413 LEVER-NUTS 3 Conductor Compact Connectors 10 PK. He's used them on everything from little bitty stranded stuff to solid wire and loves them. So for $6.15 I thought I'd give them a try.

• Window Cleaner: Said the windshield will get dirty, so I'll stick some in as well as some white paper towels.

• Cargo Bar: Said that HF has a good one that allows you to secure a tote, gas can, etc. Not sure which one he had in mind but I'm checking into it. This one appears to be kind of long.

• Altitude Meds: Said he got sick in Lake City on his recent trip, so I guess I'd better either get some meds or stay out of Lake City?

• Marker: An antenna or some such on a magnet to put on the front bumper, allowing you to see where it is. Makes getting into tight places a lot easier.

• Gorilla Tape: I have some and will put it in.

If you bring window cleaner be sure to bring a long handle squeegee.

Big Blue is tall and you won't reach.

I'm sure it is more dust, than mud like we have here.

Sounds like that back gate would have been handy, without compromising departure angle.

[Gary Lewis]

If you bring window cleaner be sure to bring a long handle squeegee.

Big Blue is tall and you won't reach.

I'm sure it is more dust, than mud like we have here.

Sounds like that back gate would have been handy, without compromising departure angle.

Jim - I think you underestimate me. I used to be every bit of 6', but with a wingspan approaching that of Michael Phelps. I'm sure I'm a bit shorter than I used to be, but I can still clean the windshield by standing on the step bars.

As for the "back gate", which I think of as the rear bumper with a spare tire carrier, yes it certainly would be handy. Maybe next year.

And having gotten a lot of the "to take" stuff nailed down I'm now working on the tuning for Big Blue. And I'm going to tag Bill with this, not because he's the only one that knows, but since he did this for a living...

My first question is how to get a stuck main jet out of an AFB? I have a screwdriver that is a perfect fit and I got the PS jet out, but the DS jet isn't moving. I'm sure the answer is going to be to use a screw extractor w/a left hand thread, but that means I'm buying a new .110" jet. Anyone have any tricks?

Next is the jetting I want to use. We are at about 800' of elevation here in Skiatook, but Ouray is at 7,800 and we'll be going over Red Mountain Pass which is 11,000'. Edelbrock's tuning guide says to 'use the rule of: “2% leaner per 1500 feet”', so maybe I should jet for 8,300' (5*1500 = 7500, and add 800 = 8300). That would mean I'd want to be about 10% leaner than what I have. Or should I go for 10,000'?

The chart below is out of the tuning guide and shows: green = current jetting; blue = proposed jetting of ~10% leaner; red = 12% leaner, which would be about right for 10,000 feet.

Then I have to think through what jetting I have or can buy. You can see at the bottom of the snag above it says "jet and rod combinations shown on the following page". Here's that page, with the colors being the same: green = current jetting; blue for 8,300 feet, and red for 10,000 feet.

Thoughts, y'all?

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - I think you underestimate me. I used to be every bit of 6', but with a wingspan approaching that of Michael Phelps. I'm sure I'm a bit shorter than I used to be, but I can still clean the windshield by standing on the step bars.

As for the "back gate", which I think of as the rear bumper with a spare tire carrier, yes it certainly would be handy. Maybe next year.

And having gotten a lot of the "to take" stuff nailed down I'm now working on the tuning for Big Blue. And I'm going to tag Bill with this, not because he's the only one that knows, but since he did this for a living...

My first question is how to get a stuck main jet out of an AFB? I have a screwdriver that is a perfect fit and I got the PS jet out, but the DS jet isn't moving. I'm sure the answer is going to be to use a screw extractor w/a left hand thread, but that means I'm buying a new .110" jet. Anyone have any tricks?

Next is the jetting I want to use. We are at about 800' of elevation here in Skiatook, but Ouray is at 7,800 and we'll be going over Red Mountain Pass which is 11,000'. Edelbrock's tuning guide says to 'use the rule of: “2% leaner per 1500 feet”', so maybe I should jet for 8,300' (5*1500 = 7500, and add 800 = 8300). That would mean I'd want to be about 10% leaner than what I have. Or should I go for 10,000'?

The chart below is out of the tuning guide and shows: green = current jetting; blue = proposed jetting of ~10% leaner; red = 12% leaner, which would be about right for 10,000 feet.

Then I have to think through what jetting I have or can buy. You can see at the bottom of the snag above it says "jet and rod combinations shown on the following page". Here's that page, with the colors being the same: green = current jetting; blue for 8,300 feet, and red for 10,000 feet.

Thoughts, y'all?

I don't underestimate you.

I guess I'm overestimating Big Blue.

I would jet for Telluride (#5)

You're only going over the pass, not driving around off-road there.

If I know Bill, he'll tell you to go with EFI and it will adjust itself on the fly wherever you are.....

And he's right.

Do you have a small impact, or one of those old school whack-it-with-a-hammer impact driver's?

That and a drop of MMO would be my first step to getting the jet out.