Suggestion for missing Charcoal Canister

[FrazerJames]

This is it. This is the weekend I should be able to start up the Bronco for the first time in 9 months-ish!

I’m taking stock of a few things and looking at all the old emissions stuff I have removed and realized I somehow have misplaced (likely tossed) my Charcoal canister for the fuel vapor. Any suggestions on how to handle the currently wide open vent in the bay?

[grumpin]

I kept one on my truck for venting.

Junkyard or U Pull It.

[FrazerJames]

I kept one on my truck for venting.

Junkyard or U Pull It.

Even if I grabbed one somewhere, I’m not sure how I’d set it up - now that I’ve converted to a sniper EFI, most of my old vacuum lines and checks are gone. I’m hoping there’s simple set up. I’ve been searching online but the info is all over the place - I saw one unfortunate forum post (not here) where someone suggested just attaching the vent hose directly to the air cleaner...

I’m thinking maybe getting some sort of vacuum triggered valve that hooks up to the PVC valve for actuating? Does that even make sense?

[grumpin]

Even if I grabbed one somewhere, I’m not sure how I’d set it up - now that I’ve converted to a sniper EFI, most of my old vacuum lines and checks are gone. I’m hoping there’s simple set up. I’ve been searching online but the info is all over the place - I saw one unfortunate forum post (not here) where someone suggested just attaching the vent hose directly to the air cleaner...

I’m thinking maybe getting some sort of vacuum triggered valve that hooks up to the PVC valve for actuating? Does that even make sense?

Oh ok, I used what I had and made it work.

Yes going to the PCV makes sense to me. You could even put a small filter on the line to keep dirt out. But you would get the gas smell, which is why I cobbled mine together.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I’m thinking maybe getting some sort of vacuum triggered valve that hooks up to the PVC valve for actuating? Does that even make sense?

Your EFI is a sealed system, so you are looking for an evaporative emissions canister for the fuel tank vent(s)

Vacuum needs to be applied to the canister, but not the fuel tank.

I think that's why these controls have 3 ports.

So if you had (A) tank, (B) canister and © vacuum

A would be connected to B except when vacuum was present at C.

In which case A is isolated and B & C connect, correct?

 

[FrazerJames]

I’m thinking maybe getting some sort of vacuum triggered valve that hooks up to the PVC valve for actuating? Does that even make sense?

Your EFI is a sealed system, so you are looking for an evaporative emissions canister for the fuel tank vent(s)

Vacuum needs to be applied to the canister, but not the fuel tank.

I think that's why these controls have 3 ports.

So if you had (A) tank, (B) canister and © vacuum

A would be connected to B except when vacuum was present at C.

In which case A is isolated and B & C connect, correct?

Yes, I believe that’s right. I’m just not sure if anyone had figured out an alternate set up that I can pull that off without a canister. I saw some posts on another forum about an inline vapor filter, but I can’t find it anywhere searching.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, I believe that’s right. I’m just not sure if anyone had figured out an alternate set up that I can pull that off without a canister. I saw some posts on another forum about an inline vapor filter, but I can’t find it anywhere searching.

Without a canister you're not collecting or storing any vapors.

And you can't really leave your tank sealed because of pressure changes.

Canisters are available new from $20 on up to a couple of hundred, but I'd think any one for a vehicle with similar fuel capacity would be workable.

I just saw a SMP one on Summit for $30, but Dorman, Stant and many others sell them too.

It's just that valve (or solenoid💡) that is key.

Rusty is always talking about all the things the Sniper can control.

If you could have an output trigger a solenoid.... just like the EGR is controlled on later I-6's it would be perfect.

Engine warm, under cruise = not much demand for an accurate A/F ratio.

[FrazerJames]

Without a canister you're not collecting or storing any vapors.

And you can't really leave your tank sealed because of pressure changes.

Canisters are available new from $20 on up to a couple of hundred, but I'd think any one for a vehicle with similar fuel capacity would be workable.

I just saw a SMP one on Summit for $30, but Dorman, Stant and many others sell them too.

It's just that valve (or solenoid💡) that is key.

Rusty is always talking about all the things the Sniper can control.

If you could have an output trigger a solenoid.... just like the EGR is controlled on later I-6's it would be perfect.

Engine warm, under cruise = not much demand for an accurate A/F ratio.

I actually still have the purge valve - although I have no idea how I’d hook it up now without the original lines hooked up. I bought a new canister so that’s covered at least...

Do you think hooking the purge valve up to the PCV line would get me somewhere?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I actually still have the purge valve - although I have no idea how I’d hook it up now without the original lines hooked up. I bought a new canister so that’s covered at least...

Do you think hooking the purge valve up to the PCV line would get me somewhere?

The PCV will definitely suck the vapors pout of the canister, if connected.

But what do you connect the third port of the purge valve to?

I don't know enough about the Sniper system.

Rusty goes on about how Holley instructs not to have any emissions controls connected.

But it's best to have a vapor recovery system triggered at operating temperature, and most of the routing diagrams I've seen seem to have a vacuum delay valve in the system as well.

I am going to admit my ignorance here.

[FrazerJames]

The PCV will definitely suck the vapors pout of the canister, if connected.

But what do you connect the third port of the purge valve to?

I don't know enough about the Sniper system.

Rusty goes on about how Holley instructs not to have any emissions controls connected.

But it's best to have a vapor recovery system triggered at operating temperature, and most of the routing diagrams I've seen seem to have a vacuum delay valve in the system as well.

I am going to admit my ignorance here.

I don’t believe there’s a vacuum trigger for that on the Sniper that I’ve seen.

I mean, is it bad to have it on constant while running? I get that it would be better to have it trigger at temperature, but I can’t imagine it takes very long to burn off anyway or exhaust out during start up.