Worth while brake upgrades??

[26ftcobraBBF]

I'm going to be installing a new vacuum brake booster, and master cylinder in the Cobra, are there any worthwhile upgrades, or should I just replace what's there with original equipment..

[RenoHuskerDu]

After battling poor pedal response on our Bullnose for months, and coming to a stalemate, I resolved that next time it's brake component time, I'll upgrade to all Bricky components and toss that center proportioning valve hoohaw out the window.

You can buy it from Carolina Classics or that Bronco Graveyard guy. But after renewing all components on our Bullnose, the Bricky still has better brakes.

Not sure how this helps with your E-van, but there it is.

[Gary Lewis]

After battling poor pedal response on our Bullnose for months, and coming to a stalemate, I resolved that next time it's brake component time, I'll upgrade to all Bricky components and toss that center proportioning valve hoohaw out the window.

You can buy it from Carolina Classics or that Bronco Graveyard guy. But after renewing all components on our Bullnose, the Bricky still has better brakes.

Not sure how this helps with your E-van, but there it is.

I agree that the later aluminum/plastic master cylinder is a good upgrade.

I don't know about replacing the proportioning valve though. I went with the later master and hydroboost and the brakes are excellent. So I don't think the proportioning valve is an issue as it is still there.

[ArdWrknTrk]

After battling poor pedal response on our Bullnose for months, and coming to a stalemate, I resolved that next time it's brake component time, I'll upgrade to all Bricky components and toss that center proportioning valve hoohaw out the window.

You can buy it from Carolina Classics or that Bronco Graveyard guy. But after renewing all components on our Bullnose, the Bricky still has better brakes.

Not sure how this helps with your E-van, but there it is.

Mind, that a bricknose has the RABS module on the frame rail that needs to be bled, so I don't think there are any less parts or complexity.

And a Bullnose doesn't have a tone ring or any of the other parts RABS* needs to work.

Theoretically there's no physical advantage in swapping reservoirs.

Ratios don't change. Vacuum assist doesn't change.

(Note that 250/350 trucks not only have bigger brakes, they have a booster with more area and a larger master cylinder bore)

All these ratios have to work together.

In the past, later master cylinders (with the all important residual pressure check valve!) have been available from U-Techcenter.

I think Hydroboost would be a worthwhile upgrade but have never tried it back to back with a vacuum boost system in the same vehicle, like Gary.

That's way more involved.

You already have a Saginaw pump but you need to relocate the brake pedal actuator and replumb the new booster.

And you need the later MC.

[Gsmblue]

Mind, that a bricknose has the RABS module on the frame rail that needs to be bled, so I don't think there are any less parts or complexity.

And a Bullnose doesn't have a tone ring or any of the other parts RABS* needs to work.

Theoretically there's no physical advantage in swapping reservoirs.

Ratios don't change. Vacuum assist doesn't change.

(Note that 250/350 trucks not only have bigger brakes, they have a booster with more area and a larger master cylinder bore)

All these ratios have to work together.

In the past, later master cylinders (with the all important residual pressure check valve!) have been available from U-Techcenter.

I think Hydroboost would be a worthwhile upgrade but have never tried it back to back with a vacuum boost system in the same vehicle, like Gary.

That's way more involved.

You already have a Saginaw pump but you need to relocate the brake pedal actuator and replumb the new booster.

And you need the later MC.

Replacing the rubber hoses with braided made a huge difference on my trucks.

I am starting to consider front rotor replacement as I have some vibration starting under braking in my 150. It makes me wonder if there are any sensible upgrades for the rotors, calipers and brake pads.

[Rusty_S85]

I'm going to be installing a new vacuum brake booster, and master cylinder in the Cobra, are there any worthwhile upgrades, or should I just replace what's there with original equipment..

For me depending on if my brakes work as good as they did with my new engine build as it did with my stock engine I may be upgrading to hydraboost using OE Ford parts that would be bolt in upgrades. The hydraboost will help you apply your brakes harder with less effort.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Replacing the rubber hoses with braided made a huge difference on my trucks.

I am starting to consider front rotor replacement as I have some vibration starting under braking in my 150. It makes me wonder if there are any sensible upgrades for the rotors, calipers and brake pads.

You can get pads with different mu.

Higher letters have a higher coefficient of friction. We see things like F, G H & HH

But just like the organic V metallic debate, you will be eating more of your rotors using a more aggressive pad compound.

There have been some breakthroughs with compounds lately (trading abrasion and friction for adhesion) but I doubt you're going to find them for our trucks.

Reinforced hydraulic lines should never give under the pressures our brake systems are capable of

But then nobody goes and changes their brake hoses 5 years from the assembly date required by the DOT either.

Braided lines are attractive, and the PTFE liner may resist breakdown longer, but you're still supposed to change them out.

Brittle rubber lines with rotten reinforcement fabric are going to bulge and give you a soft pedal.

But that should never be the case with a properly maintained and adjusted system.

 

[85lebaront2]

You can get pads with different mu.

Higher letters have a higher coefficient of friction. We see things like F, G H & HH

But just like the organic V metallic debate, you will be eating more of your rotors using a more aggressive pad compound.

There have been some breakthroughs with compounds lately (trading abrasion and friction for adhesion) but I doubt you're going to find them for our trucks.

Reinforced hydraulic lines should never give under the pressures our brake systems are capable of

But then nobody goes and changes their brake hoses 5 years from the assembly date required by the DOT either.

Braided lines are attractive, and the PTFE liner may resist breakdown longer, but you're still supposed to change them out.

Brittle rubber lines with rotten reinforcement fabric are going to bulge and give you a soft pedal.

But that should never be the case with a properly maintained and adjusted system.

I know that after I changed my rear brakes to the 3 1/2" wide shoes Darth's brakes are noticeably stronger, not touchy, just stronger. I had previously installed the booster and MC from the 1990 F250. The RWAL actuator and controller I gave to my Department manager for his 1987 F150.

My best friend had me do a rear disc conversion on his 1995 F350 crew cab DRW with a Power Stroke. His brakes were never real good and while we were emptying my NN House, he had his flat bed trailer on his truck and we were going to go get dinner but were in a time crunch, so rather than shuffle and get his Corvette unblocked, I just told him, you drive, you know the fastest route. He damn near put us both through the windshield at the first corner.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I know that after I changed my rear brakes to the 3 1/2" wide shoes Darth's brakes are noticeably stronger, not touchy, just stronger. I had previously installed the booster and MC from the 1990 F250. The RWAL actuator and controller I gave to my Department manager for his 1987 F150.

My best friend had me do a rear disc conversion on his 1995 F350 crew cab DRW with a Power Stroke. His brakes were never real good and while we were emptying my NN House, he had his flat bed trailer on his truck and we were going to go get dinner but were in a time crunch, so rather than shuffle and get his Corvette unblocked, I just told him, you drive, you know the fastest route. He damn near put us both through the windshield at the first corner.

That's like 17% more shoe width than I have.

Twice the tires in the rear and almost 3' of WB.

I would still like to get Hydroboost brakes some day.

If the truck lasts much longer.

[26ftcobraBBF]

I know that after I changed my rear brakes to the 3 1/2" wide shoes Darth's brakes are noticeably stronger, not touchy, just stronger. I had previously installed the booster and MC from the 1990 F250. The RWAL actuator and controller I gave to my Department manager for his 1987 F150.

My best friend had me do a rear disc conversion on his 1995 F350 crew cab DRW with a Power Stroke. His brakes were never real good and while we were emptying my NN House, he had his flat bed trailer on his truck and we were going to go get dinner but were in a time crunch, so rather than shuffle and get his Corvette unblocked, I just told him, you drive, you know the fastest route. He damn near put us both through the windshield at the first corner.

That's some major braking it sounds like. I wondered what it would take, and what donor vehicle I could look out for you be able to convert the drum to disk on the Cobra. I did a conversion on my '01 Jeep XJ,and absolutely love it.