Belt squeal after alt change?

[Rusty_S85]

when I did mine, I pried between the alternator and the engine block, from underneath with a pry bar. I'll try and get some pictures tonight when I can work on the truck

Ive done it that way before, ive also placed a wrench on the ear of the alternator and pried that way as well.

I cant wait to see how easy it will be with the modified OE alternator bracket without the air pump mounted. Think it might be possible to tension it from under the hood.

[Vic Roma]

when I did mine, I pried between the alternator and the engine block, from underneath with a pry bar. I'll try and get some pictures tonight when I can work on the truck

Ive done it that way before, ive also placed a wrench on the ear of the alternator and pried that way as well.

I cant wait to see how easy it will be with the modified OE alternator bracket without the air pump mounted. Think it might be possible to tension it from under the hood.

The Haynes manual helped me when I swapped out my lightly fried 2G for a 3G. Use tongue-and-groove (aka channel lock) pliers:

[red1980F150]

The Haynes manual helped me when I swapped out my lightly fried 2G for a 3G. Use tongue-and-groove (aka channel lock) pliers:

That's a good idea.

I must have a 1G on mine. I just put it back on last weekend with the ol' hand torque-o-meter and it's fine. I stuck my hand between the alt. and the engine block and put as much pressure as I could and tightened the top (non-sliding) bolt to snug it in place. But this method was just from the "I'm making something up" book.

[Vic Roma]

That's a good idea.

I must have a 1G on mine. I just put it back on last weekend with the ol' hand torque-o-meter and it's fine. I stuck my hand between the alt. and the engine block and put as much pressure as I could and tightened the top (non-sliding) bolt to snug it in place. But this method was just from the "I'm making something up" book.

In my experience, tighten the bottom bolt first, then the top. Beware there is a sweet spot, I tightened the pliers too much and the belt squeaks on start up, have to loosen it up a tad.

[ArdWrknTrk]

when I did mine, I pried between the alternator and the engine block, from underneath with a pry bar. I'll try and get some pictures tonight when I can work on the truck

Chris, this is my go to method as well.

And a good reason I threaded the ear on my 3G 3/8-16, so I can use a ratcheting 9/16 to clamp the quadrant while I hold tension on the pry bar with my other hand.

[fr0bert]

The Haynes manual helped me when I swapped out my lightly fried 2G for a 3G. Use tongue-and-groove (aka channel lock) pliers:

Hey Vic, curious what haynes manual you have?? That's a handy diagram but it's definitely not present in my copy of the 80-96 haynes manual.

Just curious if there's a more specific book for earlier bullnoses.

 

[Vic Roma]

Hey Vic, curious what haynes manual you have?? That's a handy diagram but it's definitely not present in my copy of the 80-96 haynes manual.

Just curious if there's a more specific book for earlier bullnoses.

You need the old red cover version, number 880. This page has all the information you need to find it:

https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/449785

[Jordanlogo]

Got it!

Pry bar on the bottom then the top was the key! Squealing gone, and now I can start Clifford up without waiting for people next to me to pass:nabble_smiley_good:

[Gary Lewis]

Got it!

Pry bar on the bottom then the top was the key! Squealing gone, and now I can start Clifford up without waiting for people next to me to pass:nabble_smiley_good: