Jonathan Posted April 19, 2021 Author Share Posted April 19, 2021 Yes, that's a shame. Hopefully the next one will be good. Good idea to hang in there and get a good one. No need to rush as you may regret it later. Yeah, I know it would bug me even if it can't be always seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 19, 2021 Author Share Posted April 19, 2021 WOW a 19 gallon tank dented to 16 gallons Yes best to hold out for a good one. I am guessing you have other things you can do to the truck while waiting for the tank? As I posted a small can on the fender to run the motor works great, did it for years that way till the truck was ready for a test drive. Dave ---- I spent my Sunday cutting the grass and removing the old tank. I wanted to get the old tank out so I could see what else I need to order that is bad in the area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 19, 2021 Author Share Posted April 19, 2021 WOW a 19 gallon tank dented to 16 gallons http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/head-rotfl-57x22_orig.gif Yes best to hold out for a good one. I am guessing you have other things you can do to the truck while waiting for the tank? As I posted a small can on the fender to run the motor works great, did it for years that way till the truck was ready for a test drive. Dave ---- I spent my Sunday cutting the grass and removing the old tank. I wanted to get the old tank out so I could see what else I need to order that is bad in the area. Sunday I removed the old tank. Turned out it was much more full then I realized. The reason I couldn't pump any fuel out is because the sending unit was clogged. The sock was missing and in the tube was full of rust colored crud. The whole tank sounded like sand moving around when I tilted it up. When I drained the tank it clogged my fuel filter in my new pump. I had to order another $11 pump filter because of that old nasty tank. Funny thing is the tank bolts for the bands where metric. For some reason I thought working on an old Ford everything would be standard. What the 80's is going on here? The nut was 13mm and the bolt was 10mm. This happened to me in the engine bay too. The ground connection was 10mm. Anyway the old tank is out and I ordered and new filler neck hose, purge valve and grommet, stainless steel pre-bent hard line from the tank to the engine bay and a line clamp set. The metal filler neck looks like crap so I am going to clean it up and get a new fuel cap with a fresh seal. I still need to find something like thin rubber sheets to mount on the top of the tank to prevent rubbing. The old tank had some kind of tar paper like material on both sides. After all that I topped the day off with a cold one next to the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlisle Posted April 19, 2021 Share Posted April 19, 2021 Sunday I removed the old tank. Turned out it was much more full then I realized. The reason I couldn't pump any fuel out is because the sending unit was clogged. The sock was missing and in the tube was full of rust colored crud. The whole tank sounded like sand moving around when I tilted it up. When I drained the tank it clogged my fuel filter in my new pump. I had to order another $11 pump filter because of that old nasty tank. Funny thing is the tank bolts for the bands where metric. For some reason I thought working on an old Ford everything would be standard. What the 80's is going on here? The nut was 13mm and the bolt was 10mm. This happened to me in the engine bay too. The ground connection was 10mm. Anyway the old tank is out and I ordered and new filler neck hose, purge valve and grommet, stainless steel pre-bent hard line from the tank to the engine bay and a line clamp set. The metal filler neck looks like crap so I am going to clean it up and get a new fuel cap with a fresh seal. I still need to find something like thin rubber sheets to mount on the top of the tank to prevent rubbing. The old tank had some kind of tar paper like material on both sides. After all that I topped the day off with a cold one next to the truck. LoL! Gaelic Ale is why we have metric parts on 80s Ford's. Or vice versa. I'm finding a lot of metric stuff too. Lugs seem to be metric on wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 19, 2021 Share Posted April 19, 2021 LoL! Gaelic Ale is why we have metric parts on 80s Ford's. Or vice versa. I'm finding a lot of metric stuff too. Lugs seem to be metric on wheels. Lugs are fractional on imperial pattern up into the 90's. Driveline is all fractional. But you will find you need an 18mm on the chassis and 15 fits the gas tank straps. 7mm nutdriver is very handy for the dashboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 20, 2021 Author Share Posted April 20, 2021 Lugs are fractional on imperial pattern up into the 90's. Driveline is all fractional. But you will find you need an 18mm on the chassis and 15 fits the gas tank straps. 7mm nutdriver is very handy for the dashboard. Does anyone know where the stock fuel filter went when the truck was new? I don't like the configuration of the hard line to soft line to filter to soft line to carb under the air cleaner right at the front of the engine. It just looks like a mess with all those clamps. Can I mount the filter before the hard line under the truck? Or do I have to have a filter after the pump? I plan on replacing the pump so 99% of the fuel system will be brand new and clean basically. The only pre bent line I couldn't find is the hard line in the engine bay. I guess I need to learn how to bend stainless steel pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 Does anyone know where the stock fuel filter went when the truck was new? I don't like the configuration of the hard line to soft line to filter to soft line to carb under the air cleaner right at the front of the engine. It just looks like a mess with all those clamps. Can I mount the filter before the hard line under the truck? Or do I have to have a filter after the pump? I plan on replacing the pump so 99% of the fuel system will be brand new and clean basically. The only pre bent line I couldn't find is the hard line in the engine bay. I guess I need to learn how to bend stainless steel pipe. All of these trucks should have a filter at the fuel inlet of the carburetor. In your case C4AZ-9F525-A You can find more about your carb here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/carter-yfa-1bbl.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 20, 2021 Author Share Posted April 20, 2021 All of these trucks should have a filter at the fuel inlet of the carburetor. In your case C4AZ-9F525-A You can find more about your carb here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/carter-yfa-1bbl.html Is this the one I need? I didn't see a picture of it in the link about the carb. Does is screw right in the inlet? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=56145&cc=1128440&jsn=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 21, 2021 Author Share Posted April 21, 2021 All of these trucks should have a filter at the fuel inlet of the carburetor. In your case C4AZ-9F525-A You can find more about your carb here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/carter-yfa-1bbl.html Is this the one I need? I didn't see a picture of it in the link about the carb. Does is screw right in the inlet? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=56145&cc=1128440&jsn=1 I e-mailed Mike's Carb parts and he said the threads can be different on YFA carbs and I need to remove my adapter and check. I have a standard and metric set of thread checkers and none of them matched. The closest match was to a M10 but it would not go on all the way. I checked the filter from my electric fuel pump I just got and it matched! So after more digging I think it is NPT 1/8 27. My thread pitch checker I thought it was 28 but it must be 27. Here is a link to the Edelbrock that Autozone stocks local and the Mr. Gasket version I ordered from Wal-Mart to replace the one on my pump that got clogged from trying to drain my old tank. https://www.autozone.com/fuel-systems/performance-fuel-filter/edelbrock-5-16in-fuel-filter/701160_0_0 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mr-Gasket-1242G-Fuel-Filter/172922080 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 21, 2021 Share Posted April 21, 2021 I e-mailed Mike's Carb parts and he said the threads can be different on YFA carbs and I need to remove my adapter and check. I have a standard and metric set of thread checkers and none of them matched. The closest match was to a M10 but it would not go on all the way. I checked the filter from my electric fuel pump I just got and it matched! So after more digging I think it is NPT 1/8 27. My thread pitch checker I thought it was 28 but it must be 27. Here is a link to the Edelbrock that Autozone stocks local and the Mr. Gasket version I ordered from Wal-Mart to replace the one on my pump that got clogged from trying to drain my old tank. https://www.autozone.com/fuel-systems/performance-fuel-filter/edelbrock-5-16in-fuel-filter/701160_0_0 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mr-Gasket-1242G-Fuel-Filter/172922080 I'm going to suggest you use Loctite PST (anerobic pipe thread sealant) Pipe threads don't belong on a fuel system component in aluminum... pot metal, whatever. Just yesterday another member found teflon tape in his float valve. PST is recommended for refineries and chemical plants. I don't see anything that makes me feel it isn't the best for this job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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