Jonathan Posted April 5, 2022 Author Share Posted April 5, 2022 Maybe I put it together incorrectly, but I used that diagram and those torque specs and the bushing just kept squishing out with grease on it. Not the grease itself, but the bushing. And it felt like I would be able to just keep squishing it. But by cleaning the silicone grease off very, very well it went together nicely and torqued down perfectly. The long bolt arrived from McMaster-Carr. The homemade puller assembly worked for the drivers side front cab mount. It was making me nervous because it just kept compressing and the crimp would not release inside. Finally it popped free after reaching the compression limit. Good thing this one was not rusted out and it came out without much hassle. The new lower bushing on the underside is thinner then the factory bushing but it does not matter much because it is not on the side that will affect the height of the cab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 5, 2022 Author Share Posted April 5, 2022 The long bolt arrived from McMaster-Carr. The homemade puller assembly worked for the drivers side front cab mount. It was making me nervous because it just kept compressing and the crimp would not release inside. Finally it popped free after reaching the compression limit. Good thing this one was not rusted out and it came out without much hassle. The new lower bushing on the underside is thinner then the factory bushing but it does not matter much because it is not on the side that will affect the height of the cab. Now onto the real challenge. The rear cab mounts which one is hidden by the fuel tank that will need to be moved out of the way. It started off bad already with the passenger side bolt head rusted away. That was after identifying it. I thought the bolt was under the rubber cover but nothing is there. It was the bolt next to it under the carpet. The design is different then the front cab mounts so my homemade puller would not fit. I ordered a Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapters Press Kit to get the size cup I needed to just fit in the gap. The stripped bolt head I was able to remove using my old Craftsman damaged bolt nut remover set. I am glad I purchased so many tools when Sears was still open. Some of the tools I never use but when I need it I am glad it is there. The price of tools have went up so much over the years also. There is a really good bushing set made by SBFilters that is made of a much better material and comes with the pullers. Looking back I would just buy it to get the pullers and better quality bushings. "They are MADE FROM A PREMIUM SILICONE RUBBER These bushings offer great vibration isolation and will not crack or breakdown like the OEM foam or rubber bushings. Also comes with corrosion resistant coated steel cups and bolts." Related links: https://www.sbfilters.com/body-mounts/ford/1980-1996-obs https://amzn.to/3x6OutK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 5, 2022 Share Posted April 5, 2022 Now onto the real challenge. The rear cab mounts which one is hidden by the fuel tank that will need to be moved out of the way. It started off bad already with the passenger side bolt head rusted away. That was after identifying it. I thought the bolt was under the rubber cover but nothing is there. It was the bolt next to it under the carpet. The design is different then the front cab mounts so my homemade puller would not fit. I ordered a Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapters Press Kit to get the size cup I needed to just fit in the gap. The stripped bolt head I was able to remove using my old Craftsman damaged bolt nut remover set. I am glad I purchased so many tools when Sears was still open. Some of the tools I never use but when I need it I am glad it is there. The price of tools have went up so much over the years also. There is a really good bushing set made by SBFilters that is made of a much better material and comes with the pullers. Looking back I would just buy it to get the pullers and better quality bushings. "They are MADE FROM A PREMIUM SILICONE RUBBER These bushings offer great vibration isolation and will not crack or breakdown like the OEM foam or rubber bushings. Also comes with corrosion resistant coated steel cups and bolts." Related links: https://www.sbfilters.com/body-mounts/ford/1980-1996-obs https://amzn.to/3x6OutK Glad you got it apart. And you are right, some tools aren't needed very often, but when they are they are worth their weight in gold. Kinda rusty on that floor. What are you going to treat it with to stop the rust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 5, 2022 Author Share Posted April 5, 2022 Glad you got it apart. And you are right, some tools aren't needed very often, but when they are they are worth their weight in gold. Kinda rusty on that floor. What are you going to treat it with to stop the rust? I will probably just sand the rust away and paint. I plan to put some sound isolation over it after that. I need to order new door seals. Water keeps getting inside. I already rusted some new parts I was storing in the truck because water got in. When it sat for years I think water pooled on the passenger side and rusted the bolt out. Glad you got it apart. And you are right, some tools aren't needed very often, but when they are they are worth their weight in gold. Kinda rusty on that floor. What are you going to treat it with to stop the rust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 5, 2022 Share Posted April 5, 2022 I will probably just sand the rust away and paint. I plan to put some sound isolation over it after that. I need to order new door seals. Water keeps getting inside. I already rusted some new parts I was storing in the truck because water got in. When it sat for years I think water pooled on the passenger side and rusted the bolt out. Glad you got it apart. And you are right, some tools aren't needed very often, but when they are they are worth their weight in gold. Kinda rusty on that floor. What are you going to treat it with to stop the rust? I would hit it with POR-15. Since you are going to cover it you don't need to topcoat it the way you would if it was open to UV, which turns it white. But POR-15 will seal it and even if you get water on it again it won't rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 5, 2022 Author Share Posted April 5, 2022 Now onto the real challenge. The rear cab mounts which one is hidden by the fuel tank that will need to be moved out of the way. It started off bad already with the passenger side bolt head rusted away. That was after identifying it. I thought the bolt was under the rubber cover but nothing is there. It was the bolt next to it under the carpet. The design is different then the front cab mounts so my homemade puller would not fit. I ordered a Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapters Press Kit to get the size cup I needed to just fit in the gap. The stripped bolt head I was able to remove using my old Craftsman damaged bolt nut remover set. I am glad I purchased so many tools when Sears was still open. Some of the tools I never use but when I need it I am glad it is there. The price of tools have went up so much over the years also. There is a really good bushing set made by SBFilters that is made of a much better material and comes with the pullers. Looking back I would just buy it to get the pullers and better quality bushings. "They are MADE FROM A PREMIUM SILICONE RUBBER These bushings offer great vibration isolation and will not crack or breakdown like the OEM foam or rubber bushings. Also comes with corrosion resistant coated steel cups and bolts." Related links: https://www.sbfilters.com/body-mounts/ford/1980-1996-obs https://amzn.to/3x6OutK Back to work on the passenger side of the cab bushings. The front radiator mount was hard to get off so I kept it from moving with a strap. About a pound of rust came out from under the radiator mount. For the rear cab mount I tried a hammer method that I saw on YouTube. It didn't work despite banging at if for a long time. I think it may of worked if it wasn't so rusted inside. The front cab mount on the passenger side came out easy. Got lucky on both of those. But the floor was very wet and the strange diaper thing under the carpet was a soggy mess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 5, 2022 Author Share Posted April 5, 2022 Back to work on the passenger side of the cab bushings. The front radiator mount was hard to get off so I kept it from moving with a strap. About a pound of rust came out from under the radiator mount. For the rear cab mount I tried a hammer method that I saw on YouTube. It didn't work despite banging at if for a long time. I think it may of worked if it wasn't so rusted inside. The front cab mount on the passenger side came out easy. Got lucky on both of those. But the floor was very wet and the strange diaper thing under the carpet was a soggy mess. I thought for sure after getting a cup that would fit inside that I could get the bushing out but it was far too rusted. The cup I thought wouldn't fit at first but I found I could slip it from the side and then up. But it won't fit from the front like the other front cab mounts. I kept blasting away with the impact and the only thing it did was strip out the bolt head. It started to worry me so I stopped, removed the bolt while I still could and then plugged the hole with a different bolt and let Deep Creep sit inside it overnight. I ordered a bunch of new hardware from McMaster-Carr and things to help remove the bushing. This time I ordered a very strong bolt for the puller that hopefully won't strip the head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 5, 2022 Author Share Posted April 5, 2022 I would hit it with POR-15. Since you are going to cover it you don't need to topcoat it the way you would if it was open to UV, which turns it white. But POR-15 will seal it and even if you get water on it again it won't rust. Thanks for the tip. I will look into getting some. I would hit it with POR-15. Since you are going to cover it you don't need to topcoat it the way you would if it was open to UV, which turns it white. But POR-15 will seal it and even if you get water on it again it won't rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 5, 2022 Author Share Posted April 5, 2022 I thought for sure after getting a cup that would fit inside that I could get the bushing out but it was far too rusted. The cup I thought wouldn't fit at first but I found I could slip it from the side and then up. But it won't fit from the front like the other front cab mounts. I kept blasting away with the impact and the only thing it did was strip out the bolt head. It started to worry me so I stopped, removed the bolt while I still could and then plugged the hole with a different bolt and let Deep Creep sit inside it overnight. I ordered a bunch of new hardware from McMaster-Carr and things to help remove the bushing. This time I ordered a very strong bolt for the puller that hopefully won't strip the head. Another day and another failed attempt to remove the rear cab bushing. I am trying to remove the passenger side first because the driver side is covered by the fuel tank. I would rather work out the details before moving to the other side. I got some new hardware from McMaster-Carr. This very pretty grinder bit that is 7" long. And some very strong hardware made for heavy machinery with a 12 point head. I also ordered a 12 point socket since I don't have any. I was surprised that the socket was a good quality Proto socket made in the US. The bolt had a very nice finish too. I also got this very thick washer that was slotted so I can take up some more space since the bolt I got was not threaded all the way. I also slowly started to add pressure using a breaker bar seeing if that would help. After that I got frustrated and just hammering on it with the impact. Despite all this and even trying to remove the rust and buildup inside the bushing I could not get it to release. I left tension on it hoping it would come loose during the night or at least help loosen it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 5, 2022 Author Share Posted April 5, 2022 Another day and another failed attempt to remove the rear cab bushing. I am trying to remove the passenger side first because the driver side is covered by the fuel tank. I would rather work out the details before moving to the other side. I got some new hardware from McMaster-Carr. This very pretty grinder bit that is 7" long. And some very strong hardware made for heavy machinery with a 12 point head. I also ordered a 12 point socket since I don't have any. I was surprised that the socket was a good quality Proto socket made in the US. The bolt had a very nice finish too. I also got this very thick washer that was slotted so I can take up some more space since the bolt I got was not threaded all the way. I also slowly started to add pressure using a breaker bar seeing if that would help. After that I got frustrated and just hammering on it with the impact. Despite all this and even trying to remove the rust and buildup inside the bushing I could not get it to release. I left tension on it hoping it would come loose during the night or at least help loosen it up. Another day again... This time I had half success. The passenger side I got removed after using a slide hammer puller I fashioned up from a 2ft long threaded rod from my McMaster-Carr order that I cut down to fit under the truck. I ordered a bunch if different crap to handle all kinds of methods of removal. The final winning method was more slide hammering and grinding out the crimp. I left the weight of the slide hammer resting whilst I grinded away. Finally it broke free! It damaged the threads a little but I cleaned it up with a tap and filed the damage on the outside of the bushing so it will slide back in easy. As for the drivers side I moved the fuel tank out of the way by disconnecting the filler neck from the door area to slide it over. Then tried the "correct" method first and all I ended up doing was strip out the threads after switching out my battery to the biggest one I had. Between the strong battery and the super strong bolt it took the threads right off. So I went back to the grinding method to remove the crimp and hammered down from the top with a brass drift. It finally came out! Now I need to order a Heli Coil kit to replace the threads. For extra safety I will double nut it since there is enough bolt sticking out to accommodate an extra nut. I would just weld on a new nut but I don't have a welder and don't know how to weld yet. I also got some new bolts and washers. I couldn't find a washer thick enough for the front cab mount so I will just double them up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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