1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[Jonathan]

I'm just saying that you only need to get the bushing sleeve to release from the top washer. Once the crimp (flare?) pulls free the body mount should come apart.

Perhaps your hole saw is too shallow.

This is why I like the yellow Starret extra deep ones from Amazon.

I have a 17" Jet drill press that's 30+ years old. Never had an issue getting the Morse taper to seat.

But if the guy you got yours from offered advice it's probably best to follow it.

Things have changed with Craftsman. There have been many different models and revisions of late. IDK if you can get just the guts in a kit under warranty. Last time I tried my only option was exchange.

I hope this all works for you! 🙂

I know how frustrating it is when my plans and tools let me down.

I can't wait to see the crimp or flare and document how it is holding on so secure. Its all a mystery

to me right now. Tomorrow I should have time to get it out if the bolt arrives on time.

Thanks for the tip on the Starret extra deep hole saws. I will check that out.

I wish I had a Jet drill press. Mine is a cheap Craftsman. Maybe someday I will upgrade.

Yeah I remember the days of the work bench in the back of the Sears store with all the hardware to rebuild ratchets. And the box under the counter with all the old ratchets people traded in. They would let me go though the box and exchange for a vintage broken Made in USA ratchet. Good times....

Usually I let my tools down not the other way around.

I'm just saying that you only need to get the bushing sleeve to release from the top washer. Once the crimp (flare?) pulls free the body mount should come apart.

Perhaps your hole saw is too shallow.

This is why I like the yellow Starret extra deep ones from Amazon.

I have a 17" Jet drill press that's 30+ years old. Never had an issue getting the Morse taper to seat.

But if the guy you got yours from offered advice it's probably best to follow it.

Things have changed with Craftsman. There have been many different models and revisions of late. IDK if you can get just the guts in a kit under warranty. Last time I tried my only option was exchange.

I hope this all works for you! 🙂

I know how frustrating it is when my plans and tools let me down.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

I can't wait to see the crimp or flare and document how it is holding on so secure. Its all a mystery

to me right now. Tomorrow I should have time to get it out if the bolt arrives on time.

Thanks for the tip on the Starret extra deep hole saws. I will check that out.

I wish I had a Jet drill press. Mine is a cheap Craftsman. Maybe someday I will upgrade.

Yeah I remember the days of the work bench in the back of the Sears store with all the hardware to rebuild ratchets. And the box under the counter with all the old ratchets people traded in. They would let me go though the box and exchange for a vintage broken Made in USA ratchet. Good times....

Usually I let my tools down not the other way around.

I'm just saying that you only need to get the bushing sleeve to release from the top washer. Once the crimp (flare?) pulls free the body mount should come apart.

Perhaps your hole saw is too shallow.

This is why I like the yellow Starret extra deep ones from Amazon.

I have a 17" Jet drill press that's 30+ years old. Never had an issue getting the Morse taper to seat.

But if the guy you got yours from offered advice it's probably best to follow it.

Things have changed with Craftsman. There have been many different models and revisions of late. IDK if you can get just the guts in a kit under warranty. Last time I tried my only option was exchange.

I hope this all works for you! 🙂

I know how frustrating it is when my plans and tools let me down.

I have to thank an ex-girl friend for the dp.

Melissa was always very thoughtful! 🥰

I posted some pictures of the trashed bushings when I cut the cab mounts off my truck. (that would have been when I replaced the rockers and parts of the floor)

Not sure how to find them in the whydtytt...

The top of the sleeve flares out when you cinch the radius under the bolt head down into it.This then captures the top washer.

 

[Jonathan]

I have to thank an ex-girl friend for the dp.

Melissa was always very thoughtful! 🥰

I posted some pictures of the trashed bushings when I cut the cab mounts off my truck. (that would have been when I replaced the rockers and parts of the floor)

Not sure how to find them in the whydtytt...

The top of the sleeve flares out when you cinch the radius under the bolt head down into it.This then captures the top washer.

What a great girlfriend. That was a very nice gift.

Thanks for the details on how the bushings locks in. That makes sense now and I can see how that would work.

Talking about how the bushings locked together made me think if there anyone in the forums that worked at a Ford Truck Plant? That would make some interesting discussions. I knew a guy that worked at a plant in Louisville, Kentucky years ago in the 80's. He is probably dead by now as he was much older then me. But I even got to see the paint booth which was off limits to regular tours. This was a one on one tour. I also had a friend that worked at the GE plant that died last year. He taught me a lot about cars when I was younger. I guess I need to find someone to pass down things to also.

I have to thank an ex-girl friend for the dp.

Melissa was always very thoughtful! 🥰

I posted some pictures of the trashed bushings when I cut the cab mounts off my truck. (that would have been when I replaced the rockers and parts of the floor)

Not sure how to find them in the whydtytt...

The top of the sleeve flares out when you cinch the radius under the bolt head down into it.This then captures the top washer.

 

[Gary Lewis]

What a great girlfriend. That was a very nice gift.

Thanks for the details on how the bushings locks in. That makes sense now and I can see how that would work.

Talking about how the bushings locked together made me think if there anyone in the forums that worked at a Ford Truck Plant? That would make some interesting discussions. I knew a guy that worked at a plant in Louisville, Kentucky years ago in the 80's. He is probably dead by now as he was much older then me. But I even got to see the paint booth which was off limits to regular tours. This was a one on one tour. I also had a friend that worked at the GE plant that died last year. He taught me a lot about cars when I was younger. I guess I need to find someone to pass down things to also.

I have to thank an ex-girl friend for the dp.

Melissa was always very thoughtful! 🥰

I posted some pictures of the trashed bushings when I cut the cab mounts off my truck. (that would have been when I replaced the rockers and parts of the floor)

Not sure how to find them in the whydtytt...

The top of the sleeve flares out when you cinch the radius under the bolt head down into it.This then captures the top washer.

Good job on the bushings! And I agree that silicone is not the lube to use on polyurethane bushings. In my case I couldn't reach the torque that Ford specified for the cab mounts w/o the bushings being mushroomed waaaaay out. The silicone grease was way too slick.

And I guess you got the chuck and taper back in? Yes, the tang has to align with the recess in the spindle, and then a light tap should seat it.

[Jonathan]

Good job on the bushings! And I agree that silicone is not the lube to use on polyurethane bushings. In my case I couldn't reach the torque that Ford specified for the cab mounts w/o the bushings being mushroomed waaaaay out. The silicone grease was way too slick.

And I guess you got the chuck and taper back in? Yes, the tang has to align with the recess in the spindle, and then a light tap should seat it.

You bring up a very good point on the bushings Gary. How do you torque something that compresses? What is the torque spec? I can try but don't see how it is possible without crushing the bushing to the point it won't work as designed to have a little give. Polyurethane is much harder then rubber though so it may be more likely to reach the torque spec over rubber but I have never done this before.

I have not worked on the drill press yet. The chuck is just chilling in the freezer.

Good job on the bushings! And I agree that silicone is not the lube to use on polyurethane bushings. In my case I couldn't reach the torque that Ford specified for the cab mounts w/o the bushings being mushroomed waaaaay out. The silicone grease was way too slick.

And I guess you got the chuck and taper back in? Yes, the tang has to align with the recess in the spindle, and then a light tap should seat it.

 

[Gary Lewis]

You bring up a very good point on the bushings Gary. How do you torque something that compresses? What is the torque spec? I can try but don't see how it is possible without crushing the bushing to the point it won't work as designed to have a little give. Polyurethane is much harder then rubber though so it may be more likely to reach the torque spec over rubber but I have never done this before.

I have not worked on the drill press yet. The chuck is just chilling in the freezer.

Good job on the bushings! And I agree that silicone is not the lube to use on polyurethane bushings. In my case I couldn't reach the torque that Ford specified for the cab mounts w/o the bushings being mushroomed waaaaay out. The silicone grease was way too slick.

And I guess you got the chuck and taper back in? Yes, the tang has to align with the recess in the spindle, and then a light tap should seat it.

Actually, according to the page below (Documentation/Body/BODY SHELL, EXTERIOR TRIM, FRAME & UNDERBODY) there is not supposed to be any lubricant on the surfaces of the body mounts, as said in the note in the upper left. And, thinking back on it, that's how I finally got the bolts torqued properly, with the torque values also shown. With the silicone lube the poly bushing just kept squeezing out from under the mount.

[Jonathan]

Actually, according to the page below (Documentation/Body/BODY SHELL, EXTERIOR TRIM, FRAME & UNDERBODY) there is not supposed to be any lubricant on the surfaces of the body mounts, as said in the note in the upper left. And, thinking back on it, that's how I finally got the bolts torqued properly, with the torque values also shown. With the silicone lube the poly bushing just kept squeezing out from under the mount.

Thanks for the great picture with the specs. I will give it a shot.

As for the recommendation of no lubricate I think that applies to the original OEM rubber bushings. Poly bushings may get noisy with no lubrication. Here is a link talking about it.

https://moviecultists.com/do-polyurethane-bushings-need-grease

Polyurethane bushing manufacturers advise to never use a petroleum based grease for poly bushing lubrication. Polyurethane should only be lubricated with one specific type of grease to insure long bushing life, and squeak-free performance, Silicone based synthetic water-proof grease.

How often do you grease polyurethane bushings?

Maintenance: Unlike rubber suspension bushings, poly ones need to be greased every three to five years. Feel of the Road: Polyurethane bushings help the vehicle feel like an extension of the driver. The bumps and potholes become more pronounced.

Do polyurethane bushings squeak?

Rubber makes no noticeable sound while polyurethane has the possibility of squeaking (if not properly lubricated). Historically, one of the most common complaints about poly bushings is that they squeak where rubber bushings do not. ... The sound is easily avoided by applying grease to the bushing during install.

Can you use lithium grease on polyurethane bushings?

Lithium based grease adheres to metal very well, has a high heat tolerance, and is water resistant making it another possibility for use with polyurethane bushings. These lubricating agents are basically oil mixed with lithium soap, usually with several additives.

How often should you grease bushings?

All poly bushings will have to be re-greased. Every 5-10k. I usually do mine every ~10k miles. Use a synthetic grease.

Actually, according to the page below (Documentation/Body/BODY SHELL, EXTERIOR TRIM, FRAME & UNDERBODY) there is not supposed to be any lubricant on the surfaces of the body mounts, as said in the note in the upper left. And, thinking back on it, that's how I finally got the bolts torqued properly, with the torque values also shown. With the silicone lube the poly bushing just kept squeezing out from under the mount.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks for the great picture with the specs. I will give it a shot.

As for the recommendation of no lubricate I think that applies to the original OEM rubber bushings. Poly bushings may get noisy with no lubrication. Here is a link talking about it.

https://moviecultists.com/do-polyurethane-bushings-need-grease

Polyurethane bushing manufacturers advise to never use a petroleum based grease for poly bushing lubrication. Polyurethane should only be lubricated with one specific type of grease to insure long bushing life, and squeak-free performance, Silicone based synthetic water-proof grease.

How often do you grease polyurethane bushings?

Maintenance: Unlike rubber suspension bushings, poly ones need to be greased every three to five years. Feel of the Road: Polyurethane bushings help the vehicle feel like an extension of the driver. The bumps and potholes become more pronounced.

Do polyurethane bushings squeak?

Rubber makes no noticeable sound while polyurethane has the possibility of squeaking (if not properly lubricated). Historically, one of the most common complaints about poly bushings is that they squeak where rubber bushings do not. ... The sound is easily avoided by applying grease to the bushing during install.

Can you use lithium grease on polyurethane bushings?

Lithium based grease adheres to metal very well, has a high heat tolerance, and is water resistant making it another possibility for use with polyurethane bushings. These lubricating agents are basically oil mixed with lithium soap, usually with several additives.

How often should you grease bushings?

All poly bushings will have to be re-greased. Every 5-10k. I usually do mine every ~10k miles. Use a synthetic grease.

Actually, according to the page below (Documentation/Body/BODY SHELL, EXTERIOR TRIM, FRAME & UNDERBODY) there is not supposed to be any lubricant on the surfaces of the body mounts, as said in the note in the upper left. And, thinking back on it, that's how I finally got the bolts torqued properly, with the torque values also shown. With the silicone lube the poly bushing just kept squeezing out from under the mount.

I think you’ll have a hard time reaching that torque with grease on it. But let us know what find.

[Jonathan]

I think you’ll have a hard time reaching that torque with grease on it. But let us know what find.

I asked the bushing manufacture about the issues previously mentioned. Here were their responses. Interesting that they are mentioning not to use grease unless needed now. But it is a pain to have to go back later to grease them later.

"The bushings shouldn’t be compressing that much unless they are over torqued, if they are something is missing or wrong with the installation. We also typically don’t use grease on body mounts unless there is noticeable squeaking or creaking coming from chassis/ cab after installation so I couldn’t chime in regarding grease getting pushed out... They should be able to be torqued to spec without issue."

"If its compressing that much I would also check the bolt, some Fords used what’s called a torque to yield bolt on the cabs so they are only good for one use before needing to be replaced. It shouldn’t be the case for yours, but make sure the bolt isn’t flexing when torqueing it down. And as noted in the service manual the cab should be at minimum of 50ft/lbs which should be reachable."

Please let me know if you are still having issues or concerns.

I think you’ll have a hard time reaching that torque with grease on it. But let us know what find.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I asked the bushing manufacture about the issues previously mentioned. Here were their responses. Interesting that they are mentioning not to use grease unless needed now. But it is a pain to have to go back later to grease them later.

"The bushings shouldn’t be compressing that much unless they are over torqued, if they are something is missing or wrong with the installation. We also typically don’t use grease on body mounts unless there is noticeable squeaking or creaking coming from chassis/ cab after installation so I couldn’t chime in regarding grease getting pushed out... They should be able to be torqued to spec without issue."

"If its compressing that much I would also check the bolt, some Fords used what’s called a torque to yield bolt on the cabs so they are only good for one use before needing to be replaced. It shouldn’t be the case for yours, but make sure the bolt isn’t flexing when torqueing it down. And as noted in the service manual the cab should be at minimum of 50ft/lbs which should be reachable."

Please let me know if you are still having issues or concerns.

I think you’ll have a hard time reaching that torque with grease on it. But let us know what find.

Maybe I put it together incorrectly, but I used that diagram and those torque specs and the bushing just kept squishing out with grease on it. Not the grease itself, but the bushing. And it felt like I would be able to just keep squishing it.

But by cleaning the silicone grease off very, very well it went together nicely and torqued down perfectly.