1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[Jonathan]

As I said corrosion is only an issue if electrolytes like salt water get between dissimilar metals.

Stainless on stainless tends to gall and seize when tightened.. (I usually lube with PST)

But I have stainless screws holding my whole engine together. (externally)

They all still have good heads and don't seem to have hurt the block.

Those exhaust manifold fasteners really get destroyed quickly when made of regular steel.

Maybe the bolt you are trying to thread is just too tough for the die you are using?

Maybe Ford specs a different bolt than DIN or ISO?

It's certainly good you've checked before just running it in with an impact from under the truck.

I tried to look for the specs of how hard the bolt is but I couldn't find anything other then heat treated.

When using the nut that came with the bolt it wouldn't go down all the way. But when using the OEM bolt it went on better probably because it is old and used. It checked out the OEM bolt at 1.75 pitch when I tested it with my thread finder. The new bolt did seem very hard. Maybe I didn't spend enough on my tap and die set.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200631758_200631758

As I said corrosion is only an issue if electrolytes like salt water get between dissimilar metals.

Stainless on stainless tends to gall and seize when tightened.. (I usually lube with PST)

But I have stainless screws holding my whole engine together. (externally)

They all still have good heads and don't seem to have hurt the block.

Those exhaust manifold fasteners really get destroyed quickly when made of regular steel.

Maybe the bolt you are trying to thread is just too tough for the die you are using?

Maybe Ford specs a different bolt than DIN or ISO?

It's certainly good you've checked before just running it in with an impact from under the truck.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

I tried to look for the specs of how hard the bolt is but I couldn't find anything other then heat treated.

When using the nut that came with the bolt it wouldn't go down all the way. But when using the OEM bolt it went on better probably because it is old and used. It checked out the OEM bolt at 1.75 pitch when I tested it with my thread finder. The new bolt did seem very hard. Maybe I didn't spend enough on my tap and die set.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200631758_200631758

As I said corrosion is only an issue if electrolytes like salt water get between dissimilar metals.

Stainless on stainless tends to gall and seize when tightened.. (I usually lube with PST)

But I have stainless screws holding my whole engine together. (externally)

They all still have good heads and don't seem to have hurt the block.

Those exhaust manifold fasteners really get destroyed quickly when made of regular steel.

Maybe the bolt you are trying to thread is just too tough for the die you are using?

Maybe Ford specs a different bolt than DIN or ISO?

It's certainly good you've checked before just running it in with an impact from under the truck.

Threads are cold rolled onto screws and bolts. This has a burnishing effect and makes them much smoother than cut threads.

I can't really say why you are having trouble, or even give an opinion without being there.

I'm sure your truck will be better than the day it rolled off the line when you are done. 🤯

[Jonathan]

Threads are cold rolled onto screws and bolts. This has a burnishing effect and makes them much smoother than cut threads.

I can't really say why you are having trouble, or even give an opinion without being there.

I'm sure your truck will be better than the day it rolled off the line when you are done. 🤯

I even tried using my thread restore kit to smooth it out. It helped but not enough. After two hours I called it and moved on. That bolt was not meant to be installed.

Thanks, I hope I can improve it in some ways. My goal is a reliable classic but I will see how far that takes it.

Threads are cold rolled onto screws and bolts. This has a burnishing effect and makes them much smoother than cut threads.

I can't really say why you are having trouble, or even give an opinion without being there.

I'm sure your truck will be better than the day it rolled off the line when you are done. 🤯

 

[Jonathan]

Interesting you mention that it is a press fit because this is what I am stuck on now. I need to make a jig to get the nut and plate off. It looks like the nut is welded to the washer on the bottom and somehow it is stuck on. I tried prying on it with a pry bar and it won't come off the rubber. The instructions mention making a puller assembly to remove it. I will try that later and report back.

That whole thing just baffled me yesterday. No mater what I did I could not get it to spin off from the nut side on the bottom. I had to turn the bolt at the top only. Just does not make sense to me as to why.

I did not need to get a wrench on that nut for the cab mounts they came right out after spraying them down for weeks.

Dave ----

I did not pull mine apart or replace them but my guess is that nut is made as part of the washer and the tube that runs inside the rubber bushings that is then put through the frame. Then the other half of the rubber bushing is put on the top of the tube and another washer. The bolt then is put down through the assy. and tighten till the assy gets tight. You cant go to tight as the assy. stops when the tube hits the upper washer I think.

The bushing is king of a press fit and why a jig needs to be used the get the bushings off the frame.

Because of the press fit is why the bottom nut / washer / tube dose not spin when undoing the bolt from the top. You know I dont remember even looking at the nuts on the bottom if they would spin when undoing them.

Good to hear they came off with no issues.

Dave ----

Yesterday after work the search went on for something I could use as a puller like shown in the bushing instructions. I thought for sure my bushing removal kit or the extension kit would have something that was big enough but it did not. I even looked for my largest socket and it was not big enough either. I did find a hole saw that was wide enough but it was not deep enough. In the end the only thing that I found would work was my 40CU nitrogen tank bottle cap. It is too deep to use the OEM bolt so I had to order a 7/16"-14 7" bolt from McMaster-Carr. This time it is fully threaded! It was either that or cut down the cap shorter which I didn't want to do. It would take me forever with a hacksaw by hand. The bolt should arrive tomorrow. I determined the length by inserting my thread cleaner until it went past the threads and moved free, then added that to the length of the cap.

I drilled a hole in the top for the bolt but in the process broke my drill press on the last drill bit step larger. The vibration was too much and it came out. I tried to hammer it back in but it will not go and finished with my largest hand drill. I put the chuck and spindle in the freezer and will try again. Does anyone know much about this? How can I keep it from falling out? Also my Craftsman ratchet broke. Can I still get a new paw for it? I didn't take it apart yet, hopefully it just needs some lube.

Use caution with the bushing removal extension kit from Harbor Freight. It has one piece that is super sharp that will cut you deep at the slightest touch! I have no idea why this one adapter is made razor sharp.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I drilled a hole in the top for the bolt but in the process broke my drill press on the last drill bit step larger. The vibration was too much and it came out. I tried to hammer it back in but it will not go and finished with my largest hand drill. I put the chuck and spindle in the freezer and will try again. Does anyone know much about this? How can I keep it from falling out?

I'm not sure I understand. What broke? Was it the chuck?

What I see in the picture is a chuck attached to a taper. It looks like a Morse taper with a tang to me. Some Morse tapers have threads and a draw bar pulls the make taper into the female taper. But usually a drill press has a tang and a slot, like yours and mine.

So, what is the problem?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yesterday after work the search went on for something I could use as a puller like shown in the bushing instructions. I thought for sure my bushing removal kit or the extension kit would have something that was big enough but it did not. I even looked for my largest socket and it was not big enough either. I did find a hole saw that was wide enough but it was not deep enough. In the end the only thing that I found would work was my 40CU nitrogen tank bottle cap. It is too deep to use the OEM bolt so I had to order a 7/16"-14 7" bolt from McMaster-Carr. This time it is fully threaded! It was either that or cut down the cap shorter which I didn't want to do. It would take me forever with a hacksaw by hand. The bolt should arrive tomorrow. I determined the length by inserting my thread cleaner until it went past the threads and moved free, then added that to the length of the cap.

I drilled a hole in the top for the bolt but in the process broke my drill press on the last drill bit step larger. The vibration was too much and it came out. I tried to hammer it back in but it will not go and finished with my largest hand drill. I put the chuck and spindle in the freezer and will try again. Does anyone know much about this? How can I keep it from falling out? Also my Craftsman ratchet broke. Can I still get a new paw for it? I didn't take it apart yet, hopefully it just needs some lube.

Use caution with the bushing removal extension kit from Harbor Freight. It has one piece that is super sharp that will cut you deep at the slightest touch! I have no idea why this one adapter is made razor sharp.

I don't think you have to pull the sleeve too far to get it to disengage. Just look at the depth of the poly bushing tool.

Once it's free the body mount should come apart.

Morse taper should just slam in and grip.

Perhaps you've raised a burr in the socket that's keeping it from seating?

Make sure you're lining the tang up when inserting.

Made in USA Craftsman would have a lifetime warranty. Good luck finding a Sears!

I do think Craftsman hand tools can be exchanged at Lowe's.

(and now I'm chafing at the thought of Ed Lampert and what the divestiture of Craftsman to SBD has done to another icon)

... yes, I'm a boomer. 👴

[Jonathan]

I drilled a hole in the top for the bolt but in the process broke my drill press on the last drill bit step larger. The vibration was too much and it came out. I tried to hammer it back in but it will not go and finished with my largest hand drill. I put the chuck and spindle in the freezer and will try again. Does anyone know much about this? How can I keep it from falling out?

I'm not sure I understand. What broke? Was it the chuck?

What I see in the picture is a chuck attached to a taper. It looks like a Morse taper with a tang to me. Some Morse tapers have threads and a draw bar pulls the make taper into the female taper. But usually a drill press has a tang and a slot, like yours and mine.

So, what is the problem?

The taper slipped out and I couldn't get it back in. The last time I inserted it I don't remember lining anything up. I just hammered it in. I have it in the freezer now to aid insertion due to shrinkage as that is what I was told to do last time from the nice gentleman that gave me the chuck. I will try and see if there is a slot for it to slide into.

I drilled a hole in the top for the bolt but in the process broke my drill press on the last drill bit step larger. The vibration was too much and it came out. I tried to hammer it back in but it will not go and finished with my largest hand drill. I put the chuck and spindle in the freezer and will try again. Does anyone know much about this? How can I keep it from falling out?

I'm not sure I understand. What broke? Was it the chuck?

What I see in the picture is a chuck attached to a taper. It looks like a Morse taper with a tang to me. Some Morse tapers have threads and a draw bar pulls the make taper into the female taper. But usually a drill press has a tang and a slot, like yours and mine.

So, what is the problem?

 

[Jonathan]

I don't think you have to pull the sleeve too far to get it to disengage. Just look at the depth of the poly bushing tool.

Once it's free the body mount should come apart.

Morse taper should just slam in and grip.

Perhaps you've raised a burr in the socket that's keeping it from seating?

Make sure you're lining the tang up when inserting.

Made in USA Craftsman would have a lifetime warranty. Good luck finding a Sears!

I do think Craftsman hand tools can be exchanged at Lowe's.

(and now I'm chafing at the thought of Ed Lampert and what the divestiture of Craftsman to SBD has done to another icon)

... yes, I'm a boomer. 👴

The nitrogen tank cap is a little overkill in how deep it is but the hole saw was way too short. I had nothing in between. I don't have much metal cutting tools to help me make is shorter so I will try and make it work.

I will check if there is something to line up to. I don't remember doing that at all before which may be my problem with the chuck falling out. But I was in all the way before so it either does not have a slot or I don't remember lining it up.

My ratchet is Made in USA. I would hate to replace it with something from China. I wonder if I buy a new one from Lowes if the parts are the same inside for me to swap out. My Sears closed last year.

I don't think you have to pull the sleeve too far to get it to disengage. Just look at the depth of the poly bushing tool.

Once it's free the body mount should come apart.

Morse taper should just slam in and grip.

Perhaps you've raised a burr in the socket that's keeping it from seating?

Make sure you're lining the tang up when inserting.

Made in USA Craftsman would have a lifetime warranty. Good luck finding a Sears!

I do think Craftsman hand tools can be exchanged at Lowe's.

(and now I'm chafing at the thought of Ed Lampert and what the divestiture of Craftsman to SBD has done to another icon)

... yes, I'm a boomer. 👴

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

The nitrogen tank cap is a little overkill in how deep it is but the hole saw was way too short. I had nothing in between. I don't have much metal cutting tools to help me make is shorter so I will try and make it work.

I will check if there is something to line up to. I don't remember doing that at all before which may be my problem with the chuck falling out. But I was in all the way before so it either does not have a slot or I don't remember lining it up.

My ratchet is Made in USA. I would hate to replace it with something from China. I wonder if I buy a new one from Lowes if the parts are the same inside for me to swap out. My Sears closed last year.

I don't think you have to pull the sleeve too far to get it to disengage. Just look at the depth of the poly bushing tool.

Once it's free the body mount should come apart.

Morse taper should just slam in and grip.

Perhaps you've raised a burr in the socket that's keeping it from seating?

Make sure you're lining the tang up when inserting.

Made in USA Craftsman would have a lifetime warranty. Good luck finding a Sears!

I do think Craftsman hand tools can be exchanged at Lowe's.

(and now I'm chafing at the thought of Ed Lampert and what the divestiture of Craftsman to SBD has done to another icon)

... yes, I'm a boomer. 👴

I'm just saying that you only need to get the bushing sleeve to release from the top washer. Once the crimp (flare?) pulls free the body mount should come apart.

Perhaps your hole saw is too shallow.

This is why I like the yellow Starret extra deep ones from Amazon.

I have a 17" Jet drill press that's 30+ years old. Never had an issue getting the Morse taper to seat.

But if the guy you got yours from offered advice it's probably best to follow it.

Things have changed with Craftsman. There have been many different models and revisions of late. IDK if you can get just the guts in a kit under warranty. Last time I tried my only option was exchange.

I hope this all works for you! 🙂

I know how frustrating it is when my plans and tools let me down.

 

[Jonathan]

It must really stink to live up north with all that salt and rust.

I made some crude drawings of the specs for the radiator body mount bushing hardware if anyone wants to make it out of stainless. I cleaned them up and used everything again except the old bolt. I didn't do a drawing of the insert yet. Here are the specs and the order of installation.

I live in the salty northeast.

There was nothing worth keeping. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/poo-23_orig.png

I ended up making my own frame savers and welding them in a few places.

At the suggestion of the bushing manufacture I wiped off the silicone and put on wheel bearing grease which they said would work better to prevent noises. Here is a website link to someone that went through a lot of trouble to compare. I just used what I had though.

https://www.suspension.com/blog/the-best-grease-for-polyurethane-bushings/

I put in a stainless steel bolt and nut. The old bolt rusted half way though and I did not want to use that again. Anyway I got one done and five more to go!