Jonathan Posted July 31, 2021 Author Share Posted July 31, 2021 Looks great! This is before you dismantled the beams? Yeah that was before. You are the only one with priority early access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted July 31, 2021 Author Share Posted July 31, 2021 Here are updates of suspension work from July 24th. I had to work last weekend but found time to work on the truck. I try to get pictures of the nut and bolt sizes to help others prepare tools needed for the job. And I also try to show the order the parts are arranged. One thing that surprised me is I finally had a chance to use that large standard wrench (1 1/8) hanging on the wall for over 10 years never used. I felt vindicated on my choice to purchase tools I don't have when they are clearance or a good deal. After getting more apart I noticed another bushing I needed to order. That nightmare was saved for the next day. It only took me about 5 hours to get the axel pivot bushing out. Good thing I picked up this picnic blanket from Costco. I should of stepped back and researched it more before going hog wild on it. Later I found out they have kits for ball joint kits that can probably press it out easier. The slide hammer for bearings was not working good because all the rubber absorbing the impacts. I also tried a bearing puller but there was nothing to push against so that didn't work. So I drilled holes in the rubber and cut out the middle. Which didn't help much because turned out it has a sleeve around it that also needed to be removed. Finally I had to remove the whole axel thing out from under the truck so I can get at it with a hammer and punch easier without holding a 5 pound drilling hammer over my face laying on my back. Trying to do that without damaging the arm was challenging. For the drinkers side I will be better prepared. Did I mention that I am an idiot? Oh well, live and learn. I am just an amateur that likes to fix his own stuff. See pictures of kit from Harbor Freight and let me know your thoughts or better ideas. I really don't have room for a shop press right now. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlisle Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 It only took me about 5 hours to get the axel pivot bushing out. Good thing I picked up this picnic blanket from Costco. I should of stepped back and researched it more before going hog wild on it. Later I found out they have kits for ball joint kits that can probably press it out easier. The slide hammer for bearings was not working good because all the rubber absorbing the impacts. I also tried a bearing puller but there was nothing to push against so that didn't work. So I drilled holes in the rubber and cut out the middle. Which didn't help much because turned out it has a sleeve around it that also needed to be removed. Finally I had to remove the whole axel thing out from under the truck so I can get at it with a hammer and punch easier without holding a 5 pound drilling hammer over my face laying on my back. Trying to do that without damaging the arm was challenging. For the drinkers side I will be better prepared. Did I mention that I am an idiot? Oh well, live and learn. I am just an amateur that likes to fix his own stuff. See pictures of kit from Harbor Freight and let me know your thoughts or better ideas. I really don't have room for a shop press right now. Thanks for the early access? Lol. It's still looks scary to me. You will be an expert on Bullnose restoration when done. This is really going from a revival to a restoration. Good work. I put a new little tree in my truck this week. . Didn't take photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted July 31, 2021 Author Share Posted July 31, 2021 Thanks for the early access? Lol. It's still looks scary to me. You will be an expert on Bullnose restoration when done. This is really going from a revival to a restoration. Good work. I put a new little tree in my truck this week. . Didn't take photos. Yeah when I get time I should start reading other threads to see if I can help with something I already learned. After I get it on the road I can slow down and breath easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted July 31, 2021 Author Share Posted July 31, 2021 Thanks for the early access? Lol. It's still looks scary to me. You will be an expert on Bullnose restoration when done. This is really going from a revival to a restoration. Good work. I put a new little tree in my truck this week. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/head-rotfl-57x22_orig.gif. Didn't take photos. Yeah when I get time I should start reading other threads to see if I can help with something I already learned. After I get it on the road I can slow down and breath easier. Now back to the bushing. I really hope there is some metal machinist on here or somebody that can help me understand tolerances for interference fit. I had to order so many different models of Moog bushings because they have so many matches for the truck. The K8300 I got one Made in Mexico and one Made in Turkey. The one from Turkey looks so much better quality and seems may fit okay but I can't find another one. I have ordered 6 more from Amazon already hoping to get another Made in Turkey with no luck! So I am not sure what to do. I called Moog and they said the one from Turkey is the newer one but I think they may be wrong because the copyright on the box was 2011 and the Mexico one was 2019. The other question is the interference fit. Is .025 inches or .6 millimeters too tight of a fit? The Mexico one is smaller at 44.6mm and the Turkey one is 45mm but both the same K8300. The two pack K8621 is 44.8mm. The internal diameter on the arm is 44.3mm or so. It is hard to get a good measurement. I still have more Moog models on the way. I really wish they would publish all the specs and not only a few. None of them say the outside diameter. I also wish there were not so many choices and hits when you search for this part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 Now back to the bushing. I really hope there is some metal machinist on here or somebody that can help me understand tolerances for interference fit. I had to order so many different models of Moog bushings because they have so many matches for the truck. The K8300 I got one Made in Mexico and one Made in Turkey. The one from Turkey looks so much better quality and seems may fit okay but I can't find another one. I have ordered 6 more from Amazon already hoping to get another Made in Turkey with no luck! So I am not sure what to do. I called Moog and they said the one from Turkey is the newer one but I think they may be wrong because the copyright on the box was 2011 and the Mexico one was 2019. The other question is the interference fit. Is .025 inches or .6 millimeters too tight of a fit? The Mexico one is smaller at 44.6mm and the Turkey one is 45mm but both the same K8300. The two pack K8621 is 44.8mm. The internal diameter on the arm is 44.3mm or so. It is hard to get a good measurement. I still have more Moog models on the way. I really wish they would publish all the specs and not only a few. None of them say the outside diameter. I also wish there were not so many choices and hits when you search for this part. Yes, this thread is EPIC! And you are learning a lot. I'm not a machinist, but I do machine work. And .025" is way beyond an interference fit. More like .0025". But you aren't working with the types of parts that are typically thought to have interference fits. They are usually solid so there's no compression to speak of. But you have a tube that can compress, and there's rubber inside of it that'll give. So it isn't unusual for bushings to be that much larger than the component they are going into. And with that HF press, and a bit of lube, that bushing should go right in. I have the same kit and have done several of the bushings, and they have all gone in. But I use a small wire wheel to clean the inside of the radius arm and a round file to smooth any gouges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlisle Posted September 2, 2021 Share Posted September 2, 2021 Now back to the bushing. I really hope there is some metal machinist on here or somebody that can help me understand tolerances for interference fit. I had to order so many different models of Moog bushings because they have so many matches for the truck. The K8300 I got one Made in Mexico and one Made in Turkey. The one from Turkey looks so much better quality and seems may fit okay but I can't find another one. I have ordered 6 more from Amazon already hoping to get another Made in Turkey with no luck! So I am not sure what to do. I called Moog and they said the one from Turkey is the newer one but I think they may be wrong because the copyright on the box was 2011 and the Mexico one was 2019. The other question is the interference fit. Is .025 inches or .6 millimeters too tight of a fit? The Mexico one is smaller at 44.6mm and the Turkey one is 45mm but both the same K8300. The two pack K8621 is 44.8mm. The internal diameter on the arm is 44.3mm or so. It is hard to get a good measurement. I still have more Moog models on the way. I really wish they would publish all the specs and not only a few. None of them say the outside diameter. I also wish there were not so many choices and hits when you search for this part. Jonathan, come back - would love more updates and documentation on your truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted September 2, 2021 Share Posted September 2, 2021 Yes, this thread is EPIC! And you are learning a lot. I'm not a machinist, but I do machine work. And .025" is way beyond an interference fit. More like .0025". But you aren't working with the types of parts that are typically thought to have interference fits. They are usually solid so there's no compression to speak of. But you have a tube that can compress, and there's rubber inside of it that'll give. So it isn't unusual for bushings to be that much larger than the component they are going into. And with that HF press, and a bit of lube, that bushing should go right in. I have the same kit and have done several of the bushings, and they have all gone in. But I use a small wire wheel to clean the inside of the radius arm and a round file to smooth any gouges. Agree with Gary, in that .025 is wayyyy beyond interference fit. But, that is metal to metal, not a rubber bushing to metal. Typically, depending on materials, .002" is a good press fit for metal to metal. Also, and just fyi, when working on tight tolerances measurements need to be taken with a micrometer, not a set of vernier calipers. There is also a procedure for properly using those telescopic bore gauges, so you might want to look into that. Great post, looking forward to how it all plays out for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse3877 Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 For sure interested in seeing if the new coils raise the front any just by being new. My front seems lowish from what I would expect and think it probably was from factory. Which means the rear is probably also sagging, beacuse the rake of truck is pretty much what it should be. The whole thing may be sagging due to age. But only an inch or so. I really want to do front shocks, see if that helps the general handling issues. Mine only seems to randomly wander, where I've read about some that wander a lot. i put new stock height coils on my truck and it raised it at least two inches. If you have king pins make sure there is a shop that has tooling to bend axles for alignment. I would also replace leaf springs prior to alignment. If they are sagging then expect a couple inches to be raised in the back as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlisle Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 i put new stock height coils on my truck and it raised it at least two inches. If you have king pins make sure there is a shop that has tooling to bend axles for alignment. I would also replace leaf springs prior to alignment. If they are sagging then expect a couple inches to be raised in the back as well. I bet mine would raise that much as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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