Jonathan Posted July 13, 2021 Author Share Posted July 13, 2021 If the key is worn it can be hard to duplicate. I have seen keys be manually duplicated because of this. There is a few different kinds of cuts his machine can do. One is called the plunge cut I think. The type he was doing has smoother ramps up to the position and not the more jagged typical cut. But maybe it needs the old style jagged cut. I will have him try that first and if that doesn't work he is going to use a micrometer to copy manually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 Having issues making a spare key for the ignition. The locksmith tried four times already. Going to give it another go today. Do you have the original owners manual with the key code and aluminum key? I'm pretty sure a locksmith used to be able to cut a key from the VIN. But I'm not sure if those records are still available through Ford. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted July 13, 2021 Author Share Posted July 13, 2021 Do you have the original owners manual with the key code and aluminum key? I'm pretty sure a locksmith used to be able to cut a key from the VIN. But I'm not sure if those records are still available through Ford. I have a friend that is a Ford mechanic. He asked the parts department about making a key from the VIN and he said they can't. The locksmith told me what he does have access to usually costs about $65 per key to access the data. Usually he picks the lock and figures it out himself to save money. I don't have the key code but I do have the owners manual. But the owners manual does not have the key code written anywhere in it from what I have seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 Do you have the original owners manual with the key code and aluminum key? I'm pretty sure a locksmith used to be able to cut a key from the VIN. But I'm not sure if those records are still available through Ford. I have a friend that is a Ford mechanic. He asked the parts department about making a key from the VIN and he said they can't. The locksmith told me what he does have access to usually costs about $65 per key to access the data. Usually he picks the lock and figures it out himself to save money. I don't have the key code but I do have the owners manual. But the owners manual does not have the key code written anywhere in it from what I have seen. When these vehicles were new, inside the owners manual was a registration card with an aluminum key and a lozenge metal plate with the bitting code stamped into it. I changed all my lock cylinders to be keyed alike, so I tossed that to eliminate any chance of confusion. I wish I still had it to show... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlisle Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 When these vehicles were new, inside the owners manual was a registration card with an aluminum key and a lozenge metal plate with the bitting code stamped into it. I changed all my lock cylinders to be keyed alike, so I tossed that to eliminate any chance of confusion. I wish I still had it to show... Wow, there is a lot I didn't know about the "simple" key. Could you pop out the ignition key cylinder and have it done from that? See? Still showing my ignorance. I just replaced the ignition lock and use the two new keys with it - seemed simpler in my mind and like $10. Did it when I did the turn signal switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 Nice job! Ive been thinking of getting one of these for a vise. https://smile.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-59105-Hitch-Mount-Plate/dp/B074CQFH5W/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Pro-Grade+59105+Hitch+Mount+Vise+Plate&qid=1626112892&sr=8-2 I don’t have room in my small garage/shop for a vise, but every vehicle I have has a hitch. I thought about that one before but a lot of times I am doing things that will get crap all over the car. I was also considering making a tree stump vise stand. Sometimes I don't like a bunch of crap flying all over the garage. That’s a good point on making a mess of a vehicle. I was thinking of holding something, sure enough I’d make a mess in the process! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted July 14, 2021 Author Share Posted July 14, 2021 Wow, there is a lot I didn't know about the "simple" key. Could you pop out the ignition key cylinder and have it done from that? See? Still showing my ignorance. I just replaced the ignition lock and use the two new keys with it - seemed simpler in my mind and like $10. Did it when I did the turn signal switch. If I have much more trouble making a copy I may do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted July 14, 2021 Author Share Posted July 14, 2021 Wow, there is a lot I didn't know about the "simple" key. Could you pop out the ignition key cylinder and have it done from that? See? Still showing my ignorance. I just replaced the ignition lock and use the two new keys with it - seemed simpler in my mind and like $10. Did it when I did the turn signal switch. If I have much more trouble making a copy I may do that. I have been delaying ordering wheel bearings for the rear because I was overwhelmed with choices. Does anyone know what I need? I am just so confused by all the options. I want them ready for when I start doing the rear brakes, currently I am still working on the front. They are saying things like Dana/Spicer 44 3 Axle and Dana/Spicer 44 Axle - From Chassis Number A25001 and Rear; with 9in Ring Gear; with 2,800lb Axle(s) and 3600lb & 3750lb Ford 9" Rear End with Roller Bearings and Sterling 8.8" Rear End. My head is spinning and I don't understand what I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted July 14, 2021 Author Share Posted July 14, 2021 I have been delaying ordering wheel bearings for the rear because I was overwhelmed with choices. Does anyone know what I need? I am just so confused by all the options. I want them ready for when I start doing the rear brakes, currently I am still working on the front. They are saying things like Dana/Spicer 44 3 Axle and Dana/Spicer 44 Axle - From Chassis Number A25001 and Rear; with 9in Ring Gear; with 2,800lb Axle(s) and 3600lb & 3750lb Ford 9" Rear End with Roller Bearings and Sterling 8.8" Rear End. My head is spinning and I don't understand what I have. Here are the AutoZone options for bearings and seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcarlisle Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 I have been delaying ordering wheel bearings for the rear because I was overwhelmed with choices. Does anyone know what I need? I am just so confused by all the options. I want them ready for when I start doing the rear brakes, currently I am still working on the front. They are saying things like Dana/Spicer 44 3 Axle and Dana/Spicer 44 Axle - From Chassis Number A25001 and Rear; with 9in Ring Gear; with 2,800lb Axle(s) and 3600lb & 3750lb Ford 9" Rear End with Roller Bearings and Sterling 8.8" Rear End. My head is spinning and I don't understand what I have. You have a Ford 9" from the previous photos I think we all decided, when you were looking for lube. Doc section shows only 9" available for 80 -83. You door decal or VIN should tell which weight range it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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