1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[Jonathan]

Jonathan - Why don't we make it a writeup on a new tab, as shown below, on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes? You give me the words, or I take them from this thread, as well as the pics and I'll build the writeup.

I will start to write something up and get you full size pictures. I am not sure if you have access to the original pictures I upload? But I should probably tweak the pictures a little so they are clear and bright.

[Jonathan]

I was wondering about ride height mostly with the new springs. Handling is so subjective. I just want new shocks to see if they make it better, or if I need to be looking elsewhere.

Proportioning valve how to is looking GREAT! When ya gonna lift the body off for the frame powder coating??? This project is just so right. All the systems being refreshed.

When I did the shocks on one of my Camry's it made a big difference in handling. It felt like the vehicle was sticking to the road better and didn't feel so floaty.

Yeah, I will try to work that in. Right now is more spot treatment when addressing the broken part.

 

[rcarlisle]

I installed back the cleaned up cable tray and painted screws and then installed the power booster which was adjusted and installed. I used the custom gasket and RTV to try and seal it better. I adjusted the probe to 1 inch which I figured was close enough to factory specs but it felt like it was putting pressure on the master cylinder a little. I may have to adjust it again if there is any brake drag. But if too far away I think you would feel a clunk every time you press the brake pedal before it engages the master cylinder. Maybe slight pressure won't be enough to activate the brakes.

I saw that picture of the measurement when I did my booster. However, I did not measure it because it looked like it might be right or very close so I didn't adjust on it. How much adjustment did you have to do? Wondering if it's worth removing to check and adjust. My brakes work fine. I don't want to mess them up by "preloading" the brakes, just as you said. I wouldn't want my pedal to be any lower though.

I sure wish I had less wiring around this area in mine. I think there is an old cruise control setup in there and wouldn't mind it being gone. Not sure I would want to take on making that work again. Would like to clean that area up like yours.

[FuzzFace2]

I saw that picture of the measurement when I did my booster. However, I did not measure it because it looked like it might be right or very close so I didn't adjust on it. How much adjustment did you have to do? Wondering if it's worth removing to check and adjust. My brakes work fine. I don't want to mess them up by "preloading" the brakes, just as you said. I wouldn't want my pedal to be any lower though.

I sure wish I had less wiring around this area in mine. I think there is an old cruise control setup in there and wouldn't mind it being gone. Not sure I would want to take on making that work again. Would like to clean that area up like yours.

I would say if it is working then I would not pull the master to check but .........

I was having some pedal height issues after a new / rebuilt booster so I checked mine and found the jam nut was not tight and the ball could adjusted its self if I had not found it.

Dave ----

[Jonathan]

I saw that picture of the measurement when I did my booster. However, I did not measure it because it looked like it might be right or very close so I didn't adjust on it. How much adjustment did you have to do? Wondering if it's worth removing to check and adjust. My brakes work fine. I don't want to mess them up by "preloading" the brakes, just as you said. I wouldn't want my pedal to be any lower though.

I sure wish I had less wiring around this area in mine. I think there is an old cruise control setup in there and wouldn't mind it being gone. Not sure I would want to take on making that work again. Would like to clean that area up like yours.

It seemed it was too short. I had to raise it up. But based on the amount it contacted with the master cylinder after I installed it may of been close enough to work fine. Sometimes it is better not to over think things and rely on dumb luck. If your brakes work and you don't feel a clunk when you hit the brakes I wouldn't adjust it.

 

[Jonathan]

I installed back the cleaned up cable tray and painted screws and then installed the power booster which was adjusted and installed. I used the custom gasket and RTV to try and seal it better. I adjusted the probe to 1 inch which I figured was close enough to factory specs but it felt like it was putting pressure on the master cylinder a little. I may have to adjust it again if there is any brake drag. But if too far away I think you would feel a clunk every time you press the brake pedal before it engages the master cylinder. Maybe slight pressure won't be enough to activate the brakes.

Bench bleeding the master cylinder took much longer than I expected. My right hand is still sore but I am starting to get feeling back in my fingers. The more air you get out of the lines the harder it is to push. I had to turn the master cylinder around so I could put my back into it. The rear side of the master cylinder was able to bleed faster than the front but the rear had a lot of floating crap coming up from the inside. I had to keep sucking up the floating junk that was stuck inside from manufacturing the part. I put rubber tips on the end of my brass drift to not damage the inside of the master cylinder and put a socket on the other end to distribute the area where I push in. (And no I was not worried about sparking. Just the brass drift was the correct size and it is what I have on hand.) I also measured one inch and put tape to mark the position so I would know not to push in too far as the instructions state to only push in one inch. The instructions say to push slowly in and out but it was taking well over an hour and seemed to get no better. In frustration I started to pump rapidly and then it started to get more air out. I found a combination of rapid and slow pumping generates the best results. Rapid pumping does more volume faster but makes a lot of little air bubbles. When you follow up with slow pumping it will remove those small bubbles. I had some large air gaps that were only removed after rapid pumping.

 

[rcarlisle]

Bench bleeding the master cylinder took much longer than I expected. My right hand is still sore but I am starting to get feeling back in my fingers. The more air you get out of the lines the harder it is to push. I had to turn the master cylinder around so I could put my back into it. The rear side of the master cylinder was able to bleed faster than the front but the rear had a lot of floating crap coming up from the inside. I had to keep sucking up the floating junk that was stuck inside from manufacturing the part. I put rubber tips on the end of my brass drift to not damage the inside of the master cylinder and put a socket on the other end to distribute the area where I push in. (And no I was not worried about sparking. Just the brass drift was the correct size and it is what I have on hand.) I also measured one inch and put tape to mark the position so I would know not to push in too far as the instructions state to only push in one inch. The instructions say to push slowly in and out but it was taking well over an hour and seemed to get no better. In frustration I started to pump rapidly and then it started to get more air out. I found a combination of rapid and slow pumping generates the best results. Rapid pumping does more volume faster but makes a lot of little air bubbles. When you follow up with slow pumping it will remove those small bubbles. I had some large air gaps that were only removed after rapid pumping.

Hmmm, shoulda worked out a deal to go in end of sawzall... SuperPump. Glad to read all this though. Happy to see it in place. Getting closer and closer to actually taking that first spin around the block.

Did you treat the outside of the MC? Mine is coated in surface rust and it's not old. Just a thought...

You're going to need a cowl seal soon to keep the excess water off all that handiwork. I have a link when you get ready - like $30. That was least expensive I found, if you need link.

[Jonathan]

Bench bleeding the master cylinder took much longer than I expected. My right hand is still sore but I am starting to get feeling back in my fingers. The more air you get out of the lines the harder it is to push. I had to turn the master cylinder around so I could put my back into it. The rear side of the master cylinder was able to bleed faster than the front but the rear had a lot of floating crap coming up from the inside. I had to keep sucking up the floating junk that was stuck inside from manufacturing the part. I put rubber tips on the end of my brass drift to not damage the inside of the master cylinder and put a socket on the other end to distribute the area where I push in. (And no I was not worried about sparking. Just the brass drift was the correct size and it is what I have on hand.) I also measured one inch and put tape to mark the position so I would know not to push in too far as the instructions state to only push in one inch. The instructions say to push slowly in and out but it was taking well over an hour and seemed to get no better. In frustration I started to pump rapidly and then it started to get more air out. I found a combination of rapid and slow pumping generates the best results. Rapid pumping does more volume faster but makes a lot of little air bubbles. When you follow up with slow pumping it will remove those small bubbles. I had some large air gaps that were only removed after rapid pumping.

I am starting to make progress on the brake dust shield and such. I keep trying different methods and moved away from the drill brushes to the angle grinder brushes. It is faster and more powerful but you have to be more careful to prevent damage to the brake dust shield and to your body. My cheaper Craftsman grinder works good but my DeWalt one shakes less. I use both to save time switching brushes.

My small metal pick up tool was taking too long to clean up every day so I upgraded to a large one that was on sale at Harbor Freight. It works good and saves time and metal splinters.

[Jonathan]

Hmmm, shoulda worked out a deal to go in end of sawzall... SuperPump. Glad to read all this though. Happy to see it in place. Getting closer and closer to actually taking that first spin around the block.

Did you treat the outside of the MC? Mine is coated in surface rust and it's not old. Just a thought...

You're going to need a cowl seal soon to keep the excess water off all that handiwork. I have a link when you get ready - like $30. That was least expensive I found, if you need link.

I really want to paint it but that DOT 3 eats paint for breakfast. But thanks for reminding me. I think I will spray it with rust protector.

Thanks, I need that seal. Mine turned to hard plastic and more falls off every time I close the hood.

 

[rcarlisle]

I am starting to make progress on the brake dust shield and such. I keep trying different methods and moved away from the drill brushes to the angle grinder brushes. It is faster and more powerful but you have to be more careful to prevent damage to the brake dust shield and to your body. My cheaper Craftsman grinder works good but my DeWalt one shakes less. I use both to save time switching brushes.

My small metal pick up tool was taking too long to clean up every day so I upgraded to a large one that was on sale at Harbor Freight. It works good and saves time and metal splinters.

WOW! You got all the cheek pokers! I find myself looking at the backgrounds of your photos to see what kind of cool tools you have. THat's why I have a locking crescent wrench now. Although it didn't work as well as I had hoped for the oil change. worked great on a couple other tasks though.