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1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)


Jonathan

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Combination Proportioning Valve Rebuild

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/kh-kit-1?v=123

Combination Pressure Differential Switch

After inserting the shuttle for the switch I inserted a Pressure Differential Switch Lock Tool (Link Provided) to keep it from moving when bleeding the brakes. The nipple of the tool should line up with the switch dip in the shuttle. Push the shuttle in until the dip is viewed from the top. After the bleeding is complete I will install the switch back. To seat the end in I used the threaded tap used to remove it to gently tap it on the table to seat in the rest of the way. I also sanded off the paint on the back side where it touches the frame so it grounds properly for the brake switch to work.

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/brake-valve-tool?v=53

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/kh-kit-3?v=122

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/brake-valve-seat-tool?v=108

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Is it sitting on ground now? Or up on jack stands? If on ground, get a measurement from grade to fender lip opening. If you have it up on jack stands, yep, just have to see if it looks taller than mine?

It's on jack stands. But I never drove the truck to feel how it handles.

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You didn't even lubricate the rubber seals with brake fluid before installation?

Here you go. I was trying not to have the post too long so skipped some basics.

Just that those O-rings and plunger looked dry going in.

You didn't include any type of captions.

It was only a question, not a criticism.

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Just that those O-rings and plunger looked dry going in.

You didn't include any type of captions.

It was only a question, not a criticism.

The photo compressing required makes it hard to see details. But they were moist and glistening. I got so much Dot 3 everywhere that I had a hard time keeping it off the paint.

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Just that those O-rings and plunger looked dry going in.

You didn't include any type of captions.

It was only a question, not a criticism.

The photo compressing required makes it hard to see details. But they were moist and glistening. I got so much Dot 3 everywhere that I had a hard time keeping it off the paint.

Jonathan - Why don't we make it a writeup on a new tab, as shown below, on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Brakes? You give me the words, or I take them from this thread, as well as the pics and I'll build the writeup.

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Is it sitting on ground now? Or up on jack stands? If on ground, get a measurement from grade to fender lip opening. If you have it up on jack stands, yep, just have to see if it looks taller than mine?

It's on jack stands. But I never drove the truck to feel how it handles.

I was wondering about ride height mostly with the new springs. Handling is so subjective. I just want new shocks to see if they make it better, or if I need to be looking elsewhere.

Proportioning valve how to is looking GREAT! When ya gonna lift the body off for the frame powder coating??? This project is just so right. All the systems being refreshed.

 

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You didn't even lubricate the rubber seals with brake fluid before installation?

Here you go. I was trying not to have the post too long so skipped some basics.

I installed back the cleaned up cable tray and painted screws and then installed the power booster which was adjusted and installed. I used the custom gasket and RTV to try and seal it better. I adjusted the probe to 1 inch which I figured was close enough to factory specs but it felt like it was putting pressure on the master cylinder a little. I may have to adjust it again if there is any brake drag. But if too far away I think you would feel a clunk every time you press the brake pedal before it engages the master cylinder. Maybe slight pressure won't be enough to activate the brakes.

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