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1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)


Jonathan

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If you're that worried about it, why not buy a gasket, pull the axles and the chunk out?

It would give you an opportunity to weld a proper drain bung in the bottom of the banjo if you did.

But this seems like digging too deep for whatever return you might get.

I would prefer to do the minimum to get it running with spending the least amount of money and time at this point. Of course when I run into an issue I like to do it correctly. But I am not worried about it for say. I just want to use the correct oil and change it. Trying to keep it simple.

Well that sounds like an open diff to me.

If you want to change the gear oil just suck it out and replace it with fresh.

There's no synchros or other yellow metal you have to worry about not using GL-5.

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Well that sounds like an open diff to me.

If you want to change the gear oil just suck it out and replace it with fresh.

There's no synchros or other yellow metal you have to worry about not using GL-5.

Okay, thanks. I will pick it up at Wal-Mart tomorrow. I think it is probably cheaper then AutoZone.

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Well that sounds like an open diff to me.

If you want to change the gear oil just suck it out and replace it with fresh.

There's no synchros or other yellow metal you have to worry about not using GL-5.

Now I am back in the house I can post more pictures. What are those plugs or covers for?

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Well that sounds like an open diff to me.

If you want to change the gear oil just suck it out and replace it with fresh.

There's no synchros or other yellow metal you have to worry about not using GL-5.

Now I am back in the house I can post more pictures. What are those plugs or covers for?

The knob circled below, and its mate on the other side, are where the sway bar bracket goes. They hold the bracket and, therefore, the sway bar in place.

Swaybar_Mount.thumb.jpg.56b1b6e313f7626aece5396f06478c7c.jpg

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The knob circled below, and its mate on the other side, are where the sway bar bracket goes. They hold the bracket and, therefore, the sway bar in place.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n98436/Swaybar_Mount.jpg

Thank you Gary, was it a factory option or is mine missing? Any benefits to installing the sway bars?

 

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I also removed the proportioning valve so I can flush the lines easier. I will clean it up before putting it back. The switch going to the top of the valve is strange. It has two contacts but they look bridged inside.

Looking for homemade bleeding tips without the tool. I don't want to ding it up with vise grips.

I decided to dismantle and clean the Kelsey-Hayes Combination Valve using guidance from musclecarresearch.com. Here is the disassembly of the proportioning valve side of the valve. As you can tell there was a lot of crude inside.

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I decided to dismantle and clean the Kelsey-Hayes Combination Valve using guidance from musclecarresearch.com. Here is the disassembly of the proportioning valve side of the valve. As you can tell there was a lot of crude inside.

Now here are pictures of the metering valve disassembly.

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Now here are pictures of the metering valve disassembly.

I wanted to clean it and let it soak in the rust solution for a few days before trying to dismantle it further. I noticed there was some pitting inside. Hopefully it is not bad enough to cause an issue.

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I wanted to clean it and let it soak in the rust solution for a few days before trying to dismantle it further. I noticed there was some pitting inside. Hopefully it is not bad enough to cause an issue.

Now it is time to remove the pressure differential switch sliding piston. You can tap the brass tube seat that is pressed into place and then using a screw, nut and washer to remove it. Just tighten the nut and it will pull it out gently. After that you can remove the other half of the pressure differential switch piston by using a punch from the other side. Mine was very stuck and took some hard blows to get it to release. In one of the last pictures I pushed them together so you can see what happens if you have a leak and the pressure difference causes it to seal the rear brakes side.

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Now it is time to remove the pressure differential switch sliding piston. You can tap the brass tube seat that is pressed into place and then using a screw, nut and washer to remove it. Just tighten the nut and it will pull it out gently. After that you can remove the other half of the pressure differential switch piston by using a punch from the other side. Mine was very stuck and took some hard blows to get it to release. In one of the last pictures I pushed them together so you can see what happens if you have a leak and the pressure difference causes it to seal the rear brakes side.

The brake lines I removed the rust in the solution and hand polished using the wire wheel between every coil of the spring. As you can imagine it took a long time to do this. I was sitting there for around three hours just polishing away. Now it is ready for some paint to protect it. I soaked and rinsed it in acetone when I was finished. The inside of the lines where cleaned with brake cleaner.

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