1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)

[rcarlisle]

Cool stuff. And yes, the bolts are all pretty crusty/questionable after 40 years. You're doing the right thing replacing.

The little metal blind nut clips on these trucks are either missing, worn out, or rusty. And they arin't necessarily cheap. I went ahead and bought a couple little containers of the black Phillips screws used in the interior, since that's where I've been working so much. Mine has all sorts of mismatched screws used - trying to get them all corrected as I go. And to get them all in place - a lot were missing. I try to get clips and bolts/screws when I can, so I don't have to stall a project to run to parts store. Good luck getting ahead of that.

I will be interested in seeing how the body looks with a pressure washing. The hood in the background of your photos - is it environmental junk on it, or rusty scale? I hope it cleans good.

Factory accurate hardware is hard to find and expensive. But I try to get it when I can or clean up the old bolts. The fuel neck screws came out great for some reason. But all the other bolts are trash. The tank strap bolts I got functional and will reuse because nobody will see it really.

As for the hood it may look a little better after washing. After I get it running I will start to clean it up some. The truck bed is the first priority. It still smells like death back there. Just walking by the truck you can smell it. Here are some photos of the truck when I was helping clean out the back. It was full to the top but I don't have a totally full picture.

Yep on finding original fasteners. And these aren't like 34 Fords where most every fastener is available. I'm satisfied with getting new fasteners, so lonag as they are similar. My interior has all kinds of screws - chrome, washered and not. Even one taillight screw (long stainless sheet metal threads) was used in interior. Apparently whoever just picked a screw from the box when they worked on this one before.

There is a bullnose I pass occasionally in a yard. It has weeds growing around and is full of junk. But it looks GREAT - no rust showing. The cab is full to the roof with junk. I know this truck does not run because of junk (looks like egg cartons and crates) and weeds growing up around it. I wonder if they would sell the seat if it's in good condition. Haven't stopped yet. The whole truck would make someone a nice project, but not me. I have my project. If I could get seat, it would make more room to store their junk?

Is there anything useful at all in the bed???

[rcarlisle]

Cool stuff. And yes, the bolts are all pretty crusty/questionable after 40 years. You're doing the right thing replacing.

The little metal blind nut clips on these trucks are either missing, worn out, or rusty. And they arin't necessarily cheap. I went ahead and bought a couple little containers of the black Phillips screws used in the interior, since that's where I've been working so much. Mine has all sorts of mismatched screws used - trying to get them all corrected as I go. And to get them all in place - a lot were missing. I try to get clips and bolts/screws when I can, so I don't have to stall a project to run to parts store. Good luck getting ahead of that.

I will be interested in seeing how the body looks with a pressure washing. The hood in the background of your photos - is it environmental junk on it, or rusty scale? I hope it cleans good.

Factory accurate hardware is hard to find and expensive. But I try to get it when I can or clean up the old bolts. The fuel neck screws came out great for some reason. But all the other bolts are trash. The tank strap bolts I got functional and will reuse because nobody will see it really.

As for the hood it may look a little better after washing. After I get it running I will start to clean it up some. The truck bed is the first priority. It still smells like death back there. Just walking by the truck you can smell it. Here are some photos of the truck when I was helping clean out the back. It was full to the top but I don't have a totally full picture.

Check this one. The one I referred to in last post. How many guys would jump on this?

[Jonathan]

Yep on finding original fasteners. And these aren't like 34 Fords where most every fastener is available. I'm satisfied with getting new fasteners, so lonag as they are similar. My interior has all kinds of screws - chrome, washered and not. Even one taillight screw (long stainless sheet metal threads) was used in interior. Apparently whoever just picked a screw from the box when they worked on this one before.

There is a bullnose I pass occasionally in a yard. It has weeds growing around and is full of junk. But it looks GREAT - no rust showing. The cab is full to the roof with junk. I know this truck does not run because of junk (looks like egg cartons and crates) and weeds growing up around it. I wonder if they would sell the seat if it's in good condition. Haven't stopped yet. The whole truck would make someone a nice project, but not me. I have my project. If I could get seat, it would make more room to store their junk?

Is there anything useful at all in the bed???

Most of the bed was cleaned out. There is some mystery hinges I asked to keep. And a heavy duty tow chain. I will take a picture of it.

 

[Jonathan]

Check this one. The one I referred to in last post. How many guys would jump on this?

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n95453/ge_bull.jpg

That is a short bed correct? Maybe you can snag it up and flip it.

[rcarlisle]

Check this one. The one I referred to in last post. How many guys would jump on this?

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n95453/ge_bull.jpg

That is a short bed correct? Maybe you can snag it up and flip it.

Yep. Guy here at work knows who owns it and says he'll stop and ask if it's for sale this week. So, then what do you do? this is actually nicer than mine at a glance as a complete unmolested truck. I really just want the interior, but the body looks good. My guy says he don't think they sell parts off of it. He has Mustangs hidden somewhere so he likely knows values. I'd have it dragged home if it's cheap enough. So long as I could flip one of them.

[Jonathan]

Yep. Guy here at work knows who owns it and says he'll stop and ask if it's for sale this week. So, then what do you do? this is actually nicer than mine at a glance as a complete unmolested truck. I really just want the interior, but the body looks good. My guy says he don't think they sell parts off of it. He has Mustangs hidden somewhere so he likely knows values. I'd have it dragged home if it's cheap enough. So long as I could flip one of them.

Save me the center bezel! 😆

 

On Tue, Apr 27, 2021, 10:27 AM rcarlisle [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

[rcarlisle]

For sure if it ever comes to be.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I started to clean and restore the fuel system components. The metal filler neck was cleaned and is being de-rusted. After that I will sand it down and paint black to help prevent rusting again. I will use a fuel resistant paint. The fuel door was cleaned and the hinge is being de-rusted. The hardware was tumbled to polish after soaking in the rust solution. The fuel door bolts need to be replaced because the rust was too much, I couldn't find exact replacements so I ordered something close online that is made of stainless steel. The fuel tank strap bolts were too rusted for the bolt to go on smooth so I used my thread restore kit to fix the nicks in the bolt and nut and covered it in anti-seize compound. I have new rubber bumpers for the fuel door and will replace it after it is finished soaking in the rust solution.

I bought a box of 25 similar captive washer screws in 6x1x22 from Auveco (on ebay) for $10& change, delivered last year when I had my radiator support out.

I'm not sure about 8-32, but the darn 6x1's are everywhere on my truck.

It was worthwhile to have a few extras (beyond the eight I needed)

Now when I remove one I just toss it and replace with a new oiled black oxide one.

Gary has a section on fasteners and where they're used.

Having the actual part number makes it easy to cross to the manufacturer.

If you only want one or two check a local body shop supply. (I have Levine's and Kemperle) they both have huge amounts of clips and fasteners specific to body work and trim.

[Jonathan]

I bought a box of 25 similar captive washer screws in 6x1x22 from Auveco (on ebay) for $10& change, delivered last year when I had my radiator support out.

I'm not sure about 8-32, but the darn 6x1's are everywhere on my truck.

It was worthwhile to have a few extras (beyond the eight I needed)

Now when I remove one I just toss it and replace with a new oiled black oxide one.

Gary has a section on fasteners and where they're used.

Having the actual part number makes it easy to cross to the manufacturer.

If you only want one or two check a local body shop supply. (I have Levine's and Kemperle) they both have huge amounts of clips and fasteners specific to body work and trim.

Thanks for the tips, I am going to check that out now.

[Jonathan]

I bought a box of 25 similar captive washer screws in 6x1x22 from Auveco (on ebay) for $10& change, delivered last year when I had my radiator support out.

I'm not sure about 8-32, but the darn 6x1's are everywhere on my truck.

It was worthwhile to have a few extras (beyond the eight I needed)

Now when I remove one I just toss it and replace with a new oiled black oxide one.

Gary has a section on fasteners and where they're used.

Having the actual part number makes it easy to cross to the manufacturer.

If you only want one or two check a local body shop supply. (I have Levine's and Kemperle) they both have huge amounts of clips and fasteners specific to body work and trim.

Thanks for the tips, I am going to check that out now.

After work yesterday I washed the metal filler neck in the sink and started to clean the rust residue off and polish it. Next step will be to paint the back side to prevent it from rusting again. I am thinking of leaving the fill side bare and spray some clear film lubrication or I can clear coat it but I don't know if there is a fuel resistant clear coat. Open to suggestions on best course of action.