Jonathan Posted June 23, 2022 Author Share Posted June 23, 2022 I can help on the removal. first of all, you took some good pics so keep them handy and maybe take a few more. the "boot" that you are referring to is actually an egg-shaped plate which has a rubber layer molded onto it. the assembly is what you are looking at. it is held in place to the column by a clamp on the inside part. it takes a 1/2(13mm) . but to get to it you certainly need to remove the whole column. step one. remove battery connections disconnect steering sector under hood disconnect shift down rod from column remove access panel under column at the dash remove plastic column cover between dash and shifter arm being very careful to open it up enough to clear all internals. remove the transmission selector indicator cable. 5/16 screw and then lift the cable off the stud and un clip it from the small white plastic anchor. secure it out of the way .IT IS FRAGILE!!!!!! remove two bolts holding column to dash brace disconnect steering column electric connections both from the crescent shape connector and the main from the ignition switch then remove the five 3/8 hex screws holding the boot/plate to the fire wall and walk the column out and carry it to a bench (many of us consider the tailgate sufficient) Thank you Mat for the detailed steps to remove the steering column. I will print it out and follow it. I will also use your guide in conjunction with the other guide that Gary mentioned to make sure I don't miss anything. Thank you both for your help! I can help on the removal. first of all, you took some good pics so keep them handy and maybe take a few more. the "boot" that you are referring to is actually an egg-shaped plate which has a rubber layer molded onto it. the assembly is what you are looking at. it is held in place to the column by a clamp on the inside part. it takes a 1/2(13mm) . but to get to it you certainly need to remove the whole column. step one. remove battery connections disconnect steering sector under hood disconnect shift down rod from column remove access panel under column at the dash remove plastic column cover between dash and shifter arm being very careful to open it up enough to clear all internals. remove the transmission selector indicator cable. 5/16 screw and then lift the cable off the stud and un clip it from the small white plastic anchor. secure it out of the way .IT IS FRAGILE!!!!!! remove two bolts holding column to dash brace disconnect steering column electric connections both from the crescent shape connector and the main from the ignition switch then remove the five 3/8 hex screws holding the boot/plate to the fire wall and walk the column out and carry it to a bench (many of us consider the tailgate sufficient) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Jonathan - Welcome, happy to help. As for instructions, Matt's should be what you need. But if you want more go to the Instructions tab at Documentation/Interior, Steering Columns & Wheels. There you will find both the section from the factory service manual as well as a document that Scott wrote up on the column itself. Matt - Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 23, 2022 Author Share Posted June 23, 2022 Thank you Mat for the detailed steps to remove the steering column. I will print it out and follow it. I will also use your guide in conjunction with the other guide that Gary mentioned to make sure I don't miss anything. Thank you both for your help! I can help on the removal. first of all, you took some good pics so keep them handy and maybe take a few more. the "boot" that you are referring to is actually an egg-shaped plate which has a rubber layer molded onto it. the assembly is what you are looking at. it is held in place to the column by a clamp on the inside part. it takes a 1/2(13mm) . but to get to it you certainly need to remove the whole column. step one. remove battery connections disconnect steering sector under hood disconnect shift down rod from column remove access panel under column at the dash remove plastic column cover between dash and shifter arm being very careful to open it up enough to clear all internals. remove the transmission selector indicator cable. 5/16 screw and then lift the cable off the stud and un clip it from the small white plastic anchor. secure it out of the way .IT IS FRAGILE!!!!!! remove two bolts holding column to dash brace disconnect steering column electric connections both from the crescent shape connector and the main from the ignition switch then remove the five 3/8 hex screws holding the boot/plate to the fire wall and walk the column out and carry it to a bench (many of us consider the tailgate sufficient) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Jonathan - Welcome, happy to help. As for instructions, Matt's should be what you need. But if you want more go to the Instructions tab at Documentation/Interior, Steering Columns & Wheels. There you will find both the section from the factory service manual as well as a document that Scott wrote up on the column itself. Matt - Thanks! I painted the vacuum brake booster. I over did the sealant a little bit which made more work for me. The paint job did not come out as nice as I was hoping for but it is good enough. It should help prevent it from rusting. The paint went on too dry I think so it is a little bumpy or textured. I also purchased a bike repair stand from the grocery store to assist with painting. I used dual hangers so I can flip and paint both sides during the same session. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 23, 2022 Share Posted June 23, 2022 I painted the vacuum brake booster. I over did the sealant a little bit which made more work for me. The paint job did not come out as nice as I was hoping for but it is good enough. It should help prevent it from rusting. The paint went on too dry I think so it is a little bumpy or textured. I also purchased a bike repair stand from the grocery store to assist with painting. I used dual hangers so I can flip and paint both sides during the same session. Looks great, Jonathan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted June 24, 2022 Share Posted June 24, 2022 Looks great, Jonathan. ^ x2! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 24, 2022 Author Share Posted June 24, 2022 Looks great, Jonathan. Thanks Gary and Dane. Sadly the gasket pattern for the vacuum booster has to be designed again. Somehow the file got deleted. It's too bad too because it took a while to get it right. All I have is pictures I took of the gasket left. I can't find the green test cut either. But now I think about it I wonder if I can just use the body of the vacuum booster to seal the large opening if it covers the hole enough. Maybe I can just put sealant around it to prevent air from making it inside the cab. Looks great, Jonathan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 24, 2022 Share Posted June 24, 2022 Thanks Gary and Dane. Sadly the gasket pattern for the vacuum booster has to be designed again. Somehow the file got deleted. It's too bad too because it took a while to get it right. All I have is pictures I took of the gasket left. I can't find the green test cut either. But now I think about it I wonder if I can just use the body of the vacuum booster to seal the large opening if it covers the hole enough. Maybe I can just put sealant around it to prevent air from making it inside the cab. Looks great, Jonathan. I'll bet you can make it work. Maybe we need to set up a place to store gasket files on here. That way if someone gets a gasket designed we could all use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 27, 2022 Author Share Posted June 27, 2022 I'll bet you can make it work. Maybe we need to set up a place to store gasket files on here. That way if someone gets a gasket designed we could all use it. That would be a great idea to have gasket file section. Just they would need access to a cutting machine or print it out and use it as a template to hand cut. I'll bet you can make it work. Maybe we need to set up a place to store gasket files on here. That way if someone gets a gasket designed we could all use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 27, 2022 Author Share Posted June 27, 2022 Cleaning the engine bay damaged the very thin paint on the brake vacuum booster. It was also starting to rust in some spots. So I pulled it off to paint. While I am at it I am going to repaint that part of the firewall and I want to fix or replace the steering shaft firewall boot. Does anyone know a part number I can search to find this? I can't find it remanufactured anywhere. Also looking for tips on how to remove the steering shaft so I can get the boot out. I made a little progress this weekend on the steering column removal. Due to limited time I couldn't complete this part of the project yet but I will outline the steps I completed thus far. Step 1: Remove transmission shift linkage. Now this part was a pain. The rod is inserted in very tight. I tried to remove the rod without damaging it or anything else but I still nicked it up. The following day I did find some other tools that was in my trunk that I took to the salvage yard that could of worked better then the lock ring pliers and a claw hammer. There is a special tool I found for this online which I will include the picture of below. I kept tension on the rod with a bungee cord and just kept prying until it popped. Now I think I should find a new bushing. Any recommendations for the bushing replacement? Does Dorman make one? Step 2: Remove the steering shaft linkage fastener. This part was easy. Just one 16mm bolt removed and the clip comes off. I scribed the shaft for future reference. Step 3: Remove the steering wheel. Now this step is probably not needed to remove the column but I need to take the wheel off anyway so now is a good time while it is secure and not moving. My old Craftsman puller did not have the right threads it turned out and the beveled angle on the tool did not help because it was too wide which caused the bolts to bend. After I removed the steering wheel I figured out the right threads and repaired the damage I caused by using a M8 1.25 bolt in a 5/16 24 fine thread. I purchased a new kit from Harbor Freight that has the correct bolt 5/16 24 fine thread and not spaced as far apart and with no bevel that seems to work better. I will take this to the salvage yard with me so I won't damage the replacement steering wheel. I also purchased bolts from Home Depot to replace the bolts I damaged in the old kit. In the picture below I circled where the correct bolts are in the Harbor Freight kit that is $16.99 at the time of this post. Now the Harbor Freight kit is not centered perfectly over the center of the steering wheel but I feel it will make enough contact with the bolt to pull the wheel off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted June 28, 2022 Share Posted June 28, 2022 I made a little progress this weekend on the steering column removal. Due to limited time I couldn't complete this part of the project yet but I will outline the steps I completed thus far. Step 1: Remove transmission shift linkage. Now this part was a pain. The rod is inserted in very tight. I tried to remove the rod without damaging it or anything else but I still nicked it up. The following day I did find some other tools that was in my trunk that I took to the salvage yard that could of worked better then the lock ring pliers and a claw hammer. There is a special tool I found for this online which I will include the picture of below. I kept tension on the rod with a bungee cord and just kept prying until it popped. Now I think I should find a new bushing. Any recommendations for the bushing replacement? Does Dorman make one? Step 2: Remove the steering shaft linkage fastener. This part was easy. Just one 16mm bolt removed and the clip comes off. I scribed the shaft for future reference. Step 3: Remove the steering wheel. Now this step is probably not needed to remove the column but I need to take the wheel off anyway so now is a good time while it is secure and not moving. My old Craftsman puller did not have the right threads it turned out and the beveled angle on the tool did not help because it was too wide which caused the bolts to bend. After I removed the steering wheel I figured out the right threads and repaired the damage I caused by using a M8 1.25 bolt in a 5/16 24 fine thread. I purchased a new kit from Harbor Freight that has the correct bolt 5/16 24 fine thread and not spaced as far apart and with no bevel that seems to work better. I will take this to the salvage yard with me so I won't damage the replacement steering wheel. I also purchased bolts from Home Depot to replace the bolts I damaged in the old kit. In the picture below I circled where the correct bolts are in the Harbor Freight kit that is $16.99 at the time of this post. Now the Harbor Freight kit is not centered perfectly over the center of the steering wheel but I feel it will make enough contact with the bolt to pull the wheel off. I generally use a pr of Channellock's that are marketed as "bigazz pliers". methods learned at the junkyard! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 28, 2022 Share Posted June 28, 2022 I made a little progress this weekend on the steering column removal. Due to limited time I couldn't complete this part of the project yet but I will outline the steps I completed thus far. Step 1: Remove transmission shift linkage. Now this part was a pain. The rod is inserted in very tight. I tried to remove the rod without damaging it or anything else but I still nicked it up. The following day I did find some other tools that was in my trunk that I took to the salvage yard that could of worked better then the lock ring pliers and a claw hammer. There is a special tool I found for this online which I will include the picture of below. I kept tension on the rod with a bungee cord and just kept prying until it popped. Now I think I should find a new bushing. Any recommendations for the bushing replacement? Does Dorman make one? Step 2: Remove the steering shaft linkage fastener. This part was easy. Just one 16mm bolt removed and the clip comes off. I scribed the shaft for future reference. Step 3: Remove the steering wheel. Now this step is probably not needed to remove the column but I need to take the wheel off anyway so now is a good time while it is secure and not moving. My old Craftsman puller did not have the right threads it turned out and the beveled angle on the tool did not help because it was too wide which caused the bolts to bend. After I removed the steering wheel I figured out the right threads and repaired the damage I caused by using a M8 1.25 bolt in a 5/16 24 fine thread. I purchased a new kit from Harbor Freight that has the correct bolt 5/16 24 fine thread and not spaced as far apart and with no bevel that seems to work better. I will take this to the salvage yard with me so I won't damage the replacement steering wheel. I also purchased bolts from Home Depot to replace the bolts I damaged in the old kit. In the picture below I circled where the correct bolts are in the Harbor Freight kit that is $16.99 at the time of this post. Now the Harbor Freight kit is not centered perfectly over the center of the steering wheel but I feel it will make enough contact with the bolt to pull the wheel off. Good pics, Jonathan. And a good tip on the removal of the steering wheel. I recently had to repair the threads on Big Blue's wheel because someone used the wrong bolt. On the bushing, heat is what lets you remove it easily. I fought with one for hours until someone suggested heat and then I had it off so easily. But heat isn't easily had in the salvage, and some won't let you for fear of fire. So in that case you'll have to lube them and pry them off as you did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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